[aargee]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

Sorry, CCT is Cam Chain Tensioner.

I will fully agree with Doo_Dev here; CCT (adapting from you ) cannot be adjusted with CBR (and Unicorn). It either works or breaks, period.

Mine broke at 69K once, the experience was nightmare. The engine made a whole ruckus & attracted everyone around, so huge was the sound. I was cursing the bike as it happened on my way to office, that too Monday morning (and almost near to office), all of a sudden, boom, for no apparent reason, just gone suddenly.

Parked the bike in office, called up JSP Honda, asked them to pickup the bike & they fixed it & later came to know the CCT was broken. I had to later thank the bike because it withheld on an arduous journey from EKM to Chennai just the previous day. Had it been somewhere enroute, I would've really suffered. Glad the CCT upheld until next day

Also a word of caution, CB Unicorn's & C250R's CCT look alike & in today's spares shortage situation might provoke ASC To replace C250R's CCT with Unicorn's one. I'm not saying the ASC will do it & you should be able to prevent it, but, making you aware on this fact to keep you vigilant.

[ManasN95]

Originally Posted by aargee

CCT (adapting from you ) cannot be adjusted with CBR

Also a word of caution

Thank You. Maybe I was misinformed the last time I carried out the service.

Let me put forth the exact issue again; I am facing two issues:

1) When I am between 4K and 5K RPM, in any gear, I get a 'brrrr' from the engine, and it is the most pronounced between this band, while it tapers off above 5K RPM and vanishes above 5.5K. Also, doesn't come before 4K RPM and does not happen when I am accelerating, only if I keep the throttle constant between 4K and 5K. I tried to dismiss this as engine resonance, but this issue wasn't present at around 5000-6000 KMs on the odometer.

I have carried out three Shell Rimula R4 cycles in between Shell FS cycles, so maybe alternating between mineral and synthetic oil may have led to the shim tolerances being out of values? Just asking.

2) When I am accelerating in gear, irrespective of any RPM (Above 3K) especially when there is an incline or a pillion, there is a distinct and loud noise - like a pebble in a tin can - attributed to the Cam Chain Tensioner (please confirm) and hence I had changed the tensioner at the last service. All was good for the first 500 KMs after the change, but the same noise started again. So if the tensioner does not give away so early, maybe I got a defective tensioner, or the tensioner was not tightened to OEM specs, or maybe some other reason that I am not aware of. Or this might be the sound coming from a different source altogether.

I don't remember the source, but he had said that in his case, for the same problem, removing the tensioner and again installing the same tensioner and tightening to the OEM specs worked in his case. Hence the whole 'retightening the tensioner' point.

This two are the major issues, rest all is just basic and/or preventive maintenance.

[Doo_Dev]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

Thank You. Maybe I was misinformed the last time I carried out the service.

2) When I am accelerating in gear, irrespective of any RPM (Above 3K) especially when there is an incline or a pillion, there is a distinct and loud noise - like a pebble in a tin can - attributed to the Cam Chain Tensioner (please confirm) and hence I had changed the tensioner at the last service. All was good for the first 500 KMs after the change, but the same noise started again. So if the tensioner does not give away so early, maybe I got a defective tensioner, or the tensioner was not tightened to OEM specs, or maybe some other reason that I am not aware of. Or this might be the sound coming from a different source altogether.

I don't remember the source, but he had said that in his case, for the same problem, removing the tensioner and again installing the same tensioner and tightening to the OEM specs worked in his case. Hence the whole 'retightening the tensioner' point.

This two are the major issues, rest all is just basic and/or preventive maintenance.

Cam tensioner is used to control the slack in the timing chain. If the slack is beyond acceptable limits, the cam chain tensioner can arrest some of the slack. So changing the cam tensioner repeatedly will not solve the problem. You can ask the ASC to check the slack in the timing chain and replace it.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

1) When I am between 4K and 5K RPM..around 5000-6000 KMs on the odometer

I know how it happened for me; earlier it was between 7K-8K RPM; then it decreased to 6K-7K RPM, then finally between 5K-6K RPM. All fingers were going numb, especially the pinky one. This type of issue is clearly calls for change in SHIM. If you've were observing the decrease from xx RPM to 5K RPM, then it should be the SHIM

Originally Posted by ManasN95

2) When I am accelerating in gearOr this might be the sound coming from a different source altogether

If this sound is heard irrespective of incline or pillion, then it's engine. Otherwise, I would attribute to different source as you say. Could even be the suspension. Also pls check if it's occurring every single time irrespective of how many distance has been clocked (to eliminate cold & optimal engine temperature & include/isolate engine from the issue)

[ManasN95]

Originally Posted by aargee

then it should be the SHIM

If this sound is heard irrespective of incline or pillion, then it's engine. [/i])

Seems like Shim job needs to be done.

And yes, this noise comes irrespective of the road conditions and pillion.

Also yes, hot or cold, it comes both the times. Not at idle though, haven't observed.

What does this point to?

[aargee]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

What does this point to?

Your favorite one boss - CCT

[ManasN95]

Originally Posted by aargee

Your favorite one boss - CCT

So I replace it? I had it replaced from the ASVC itself, shouldn't they be tightening to the OEM specs?

Hardly 3000 kms after the tensioner change

[aargee]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

So I replace it? I had it replaced from the ASVC itself, shouldn't they be tightening to the OEM specs?

Theoretically yes, practically...

Originally Posted by ManasN95

Hardly 3000 kms after the tensioner change

I don't know boss!!

[ManasN95]

So, a new issue has shown its face. As I had mentioned on other threads, the CBR has taken quite a beating in the last 20 days due to numerous trips on bad roads, and as a result, the handle bar is wobbling at high speeds.

I am observing this at high speeds only, not otherwise.

Experts, please advise, what should I look into?

[neil.jericho]

A bent alloy could probably be the cause.

[Bismaya]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

So, a new issue has shown its face. As I had mentioned on other threads, the CBR has taken quite a beating in the last 20 days due to numerous trips on bad roads, and as a result, the handle bar is wobbling at high speeds.

I am observing this at high speeds only, not otherwise.

Experts, please advise, what should I look into?

I would recommend checking the coneset. It's a defect with Honda Bikes. When ridden on bad roads for a while, the handlebar tends to unsettle and the conset bearings tend to get messed up. Is your handlebar diving towards right? If so, then it might be worth getting it checked ASAP. Mine used to wobble on speeds below 50. Being a two-piece handble bar, the leverge might be managable at low speeds with the huge front tyre somewhat compensating. Rims don't get so easily bent (unless they hit repeated heavy potholes and hit bad roads everyday for the most of the ride).

[aargee]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

I am observing this at high speeds only, not otherwise.

When was the last time (mm/yy) you changed the tires? And since changing how many Km have you clocked? And for how many months the bike remained nearly stationed (means, not have ridden more than 50+ Km a week)

Originally Posted by Bismaya

It's a defect with Honda Bikes. When ridden on bad roads for a while, the handlebar tends to unsettle and the conset bearings tend to get messed up

This is news to me!! I'm on second coneset

Originally Posted by neil.jericho

A bent alloy could probably be the cause.

Boss, Honda's alloy wheels are bullet proofs made by one of very respectable company in the world - Enkei. They seldom give up so easily. Thanks to Bangalore's beautiful semi furnished bridges on ORR, otherwise I would've been riding on OE front like rear. (And that's one damn compelling reason for CB500X)

[ManasN95]

Originally Posted by aargee

When was the last time (mm/yy) you changed the tires? And since changing how many Km have you clocked? And for how many months the bike remained nearly stationed (means, not have ridden more than 50+ Km a week)

Sir, the tires are stock (MRF Zappers) 2017 made and are as old as the bike i.e. 11200 KMs old. I am uploading the front tire thread images and also the front oil seal which I feel are in good shape.











P.S: The Shell Rimula R4 condition after 1000 KMs of riding in extreme heat conditions over here. Can easily go another 500 KMs at the very least, but I won't stretch that far. Already looking up options: Castrol Power1 Ultimate the immediate choice, and the usual suspects like Shell Advanced Ultra after.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

Sir, the tires are stock (MRF Zappers) 2017 made and are as old as the bike i.e. 11200 KMs old. I am uploading the front tire thread images and also the front oil seal which I feel are in good shape

Boss, I'm not judging or complaining. I'm only going to share my experience.

I think it was in 2012/2013, not sure, those were the days where 140/70-17 was still rare. MRF had just come out with their radial tire for this size. And those were the days where I was clocking atleast 330 Km a week excluding some weekend rides. So I was doing easily over 20K a year & I had to change 1.5 tire every year on both front & rear.

After stock lasted for 22K, I think I bought Dunlop not sure, I really forgot, the second set lasted 17K. It was the third set I switched to MRF radial. It was awesome to begin with. After 17K (and remember this is still less than a year on a brand new tire that's probably fresh out of factory) the treads were superb, yet the braking was pathetic. Those were the days I had issues with braking as well & I was ranting all over that STD brakes were pathetic & going ga-ga over Nissin.

After 19K, the tires were looking like brand new except that there's not real visible wear & tear on the tires, but a coin test said otherwise. Finally after a year, I threw away those tires & switched to Michelin radial & that was when I understood a reality that...the braking is not that bad & CBR has become really smooth. Just a tire change made the whole difference.

Now, I'm not saying this is your issue, it could be the coneset, it could be the alloy wheel, a bent in T-stem, a misplaced bearing in coneset. Anything. But yes, start with the least expensive item. Coneset followed by suspension followed by tires followed by alloy wheels

[ManasN95]

Originally Posted by aargee

When was the last time (mm/yy) you changed the tires? And since changing how many Km have you clocked? And for how many months the bike remained nearly stationed (means, not have ridden more than 50+ Km a week)

[/i])

Hello, the handle bar wobble has been persistent, although very minor, now that it's there, it's eating me.

So, on checking with a mechanic and getting feedbacks, it turns out that the front tyre is at the end of it's service life, with some 1500 odd kilometres before it goes bald.

As you rightly pointed out aargee Sir, the bike has been stationary far too long the last year, and now at 11850 KMs, the front seems to be giving away.

So a search for a new front tyre is on. Please suggest, one which will hit the right balance between money and performance as a major service and a couple of accessories are already due.