[PatienceWins]

Nice ownership thread. I love the bike for touring and can relate to your ownership report.

Sad that Honda discontinued the bike. Hope there won't be shortage of spare parts.

Mine is 2011 model, non ABS, done only 23000 kms, mostly highways.

Some of the mods I am happy with:

1. Steel braided brake lines: Got it as part of group buy in CBR facebook forum long back. Improves braking a lot. Still regret not going for ABS model. I had booked ABS, but changed later because of waiting period.

2. Mad dog aux lights: I also use Osram pilot lamp and LED headlight (chinese make from a friend). Adding these aux lights made a world of difference.

3. Padded seats: Added some foam from a seat shop, more comfortable. Planning to get some gel added later, not a fan of external seats like Rideonair.

4. I have also added taller windscreen, same as yours. Got it for Rs. 1000 from an instagram online store. Helps in reducing windblast. Issue is that there is gap after fitting, it is not a direct fit and the Honda technician does not know the aftermarket changes needed.

5. Taller handlebar Clip on from Apache RTR 200. This is a direct fit for the CBR and gives upright searing posture. I moved to this because of my shoulder pain issue. The negatives are less handling on corners and more vibration. But before this mod, I could not ride the bike long. So this is the best modification for me.

I would like to get an adventure bike, but love both my bikes (CBR 250 and Suzuki Classic Fiero) and cannot think about selling either of them. I have parking issues and maintaining more bikes would be difficult.

Wish you many more happy miles. Hope to see regular updates from you.

[ManasN95]

Originally Posted by PatienceWins

Nice ownership thread. I love the bike for touring and can relate to your ownership report.

Sad that Honda discontinued the bike. Hope there won't be shortage of spare parts.

Some of the mods I am happy with:

1. Steel braided brake lines: Got it as part of group buy in CBR facebook forum long back. Improves braking a lot.

3. Padded seats: Added some foam from a seat shop, more comfortable. Planning to get some gel added later, not a fan of external seats like Rideonair.

4. Issue is that there is gap after fitting, it is not a direct fit and the Honda technician does not know the aftermarket changes needed.

5. Taller handlebar Clip on from Apache RTR 200. So this is the best modification for me.

Thank You Sir, I believe we would not face any spare parts issue as long as we plan them well! I plan to keep her for another year at the maximum as I too, like you, want to shift over to an adventure motorcycle (Himalayan, CB500X).

Would steel braided lines mark any improvement in ABS bikes? I am already very much satisfied with the Nissin brakes of the CBR, but better braking is always welcome, right? Would they mark any difference in mine?

I am ~110 kilos, 5'10 and I find the stock seats to be okay, never faced any bum pains over the course of the ownership. Would extra foam, gel help me in anyway? I might try if you say so, but I hope it is reversible if I don't find them better later.

Sir, my technician added a bit of foam between the panel gaps during installation. I am only just about facing a creaking noise (might be the foam displaced or something) so I will look into it again, but before this, the windscreen was fixed properly, you could try that.

Yes I have heard about the handlebars, and I am tempted to do the modification, but if it becomes more touring friendly, then I would not take my weight loss very seriously, as I would be in my comfort zone. Hence, the occasional wrist pain is keeping me on the fringes.

[Ironhide]

Originally Posted by PatienceWins

Nice ownership thread. I love the bike for touring and can relate to your ownership report.
----snip----

5. Taller handlebar Clip on from Apache RTR 200. This is a direct fit for the CBR and gives upright searing posture. I moved to this because of my shoulder pain issue. The negatives are less handling on corners and more vibration. But before this mod, I could not ride the bike long. So this is the best modification for me.

Hijacking a thread for a totally different point. Could you please elaborate on how these clip on handlebars were installed on the bike and were there any problems faced like the adjusting the length of the brake lines, problems encountered in turning the handle bar from lock to lock or fouling of the new handlebar with the original windscreen? Were any additional holes needed to be made? Some pictures and /or videos ( like this post (CBR250 conversion: Clip-on to pipe-style handlebar))would be immensely helpful for the rest of the owners !

Cheers !

[ManasN95]

A quick update! CBR gets TeamBhp'd!

Sorry for the unclean CBR, I live in a dusty area.

[ManasN95]

Service Update: (24.01.2020)

With Honda, you can undergo one major service per year and still trust her to be reliable throughout, just follow a little intricate periodic maintenance/preventive maintenance and zip away!

With that in mind, I took an appointment with Honda, as I could not find some good FNGs nearby me (I stay in Dombivali). I had heard good reviews from Xbhp about Vihaan Honda, Thane and their head mechanic Abdul and his understudy Amol. So booked an appointment, and reached there well before time.

The overall job card process was okay, Amol seemed disinterested, hence didn't feel very welcomed. I had 2-3 issues to sort apart from the usual service, like brake pads were worn out, LID R fiber part was broken and Cam Chain Tensioner was to be replaced as it was making a lot of noise during acceleration.



I fell prey to their sales tactics and said yes to the Service Pro, which accounted to some 1600 bucks but that included thorough maintenance. I thought that I would be getting her serviced once in a year anyway, so let's do it and keep her in top shape.

List of work carried out (Outside Service Points):

1) Lid R Assembly broken, changed.



2) Brake Pads Changed (F/R):



3) Cam Chain Tensioner Changed:


4) Gear Lever Rubber Changed:


5) Clutch Lever Bent, Changed:


Things carried out apart from parts change:

1) Fork Oil changed to Motul Heavy 30W.

2) Brake Bleeding, and brake oil topped up and Brake Rotor Cleaning.

3) Injector Cleaning, Throttle Body Cleaning.

4) Pro Link Suspension Greasing.

5) Air Filter Cleaned, not replaced.

6) Chain Cleaned, Adjusted and Lubricated.

7) Sprayed major terminals with WD-40.

8) Engine Bolts tightening.

9) Both Wheel axle lubrication.

10) Thorough wash.


Note: Is this type of washing okay? The mechanic (Amol) himself did this, so I didn't intervene. I had hoped it doesn't do any harm, and so far it has not.

The overall experience after the job card opening was good, I was allowed to be in the CBR cabin, I consistently asked questions to Amol and he answered, not enthusiastically, but he did.

Amol lowered the angle on the rear brake lever, and now I do not tend to brake unconsciously even when my foot is on the brake lever as the play is more which had led to pre-mature wear of the earlier brake pads.

Please correct me if I am wrong, as this is a C-ABS, even if I press the rear brakes, the front brakes also get applied (in a small amount) and vice versa?

Overall, I am satisfied with the level of workmanship, so looking back, I am not that bothered about the total bill which had Brake Pads, Tensioner and a body panel as extra, otherwise which would be easily be cut to half if we discard these things.

Attaching the bill for your reference. I am not sure as to why brake pads change would be charged over and above the service charge, but I let that go for then.

Members are welcomed to suggest, advise and point out.

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

Please correct me if I am wrong, as this is a C-ABS, even if I press the rear brakes, the front brakes also get applied (in a small amount) and vice versa?

Overall, I am satisfied with the level of workmanship, so looking back, I am not that bothered about the total bill which had Brake Pads, Tensioner and a body panel as extra, otherwise which would be easily be cut to half if we discard these things.

Attaching the bill for your reference. I am not sure as to why brake pads change would be charged over and above the service charge, but I let that go for then.

Spares are costly that's a given, and labor as usual. All SVCs loot by the name of certain regimen/add-ons with which they make extra money. Coming to the ABS, in the CBR, the rear brake activates the front brake, pressing the rear activates the front brake mildly, hence the name C-ABS. Front brake activates only the front.

Cheers!
VJ

[ManasN95]

A small update:

I'll be putting in the Shell Rimula R4 15W40 Engine Oil (Specific for diesel engines) which has high ZDDP levels alongwith the Yamaha FZ Oil filter.

Filter - 50 bucks
Rimula R4 - 350 bucks each bottle.

Currently on Shell Advanced Ultra and OEM oil filter.

I'll be keeping a close eye on the engine oil texture post the change to observe if the engine internals are free from any excessive deposits. I'm planning to run the Rimula R4 and FZ filter combo for 1000 KMs before deciding on the further course of action.

This combo has been tried and tested for ~3500 KMs at a stretch on a CBR if I'm not wrong. I'll keep observing every 500 KMs and follow the top-up method if required.

Also, another switch I'd be making is that of changing over to diesel for chain cleaning and EP90 Gear Oil for chain lubrication. Let's see how that works out. Currently using WD40 and Putoline DryTech. Satisfied with both, but constant yearning for effective and cheaper alternatives led me to this.

[shashank.nk]

Had a query for CBR owners- do you feel any vibrations between the 5-6k rpm in your bike? I've noticed it in all the bikes I TD until now and in some cases it extends into the higher range as well. The vibrations can be felt only on the handle bar and nowhere else.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

A small update:

Nothing to worry about, but in the interest of engine life I'd suggest you drop drain intervals to a thousand miles per quart.

I use HDEO's in all my motorcycles, Rimula I've stopped using as the pricing has considerably increased over the past few years, now I settle with HP's Laal Ghoda.

Both my engine's are spotlessly clean and running perfectly with odo reads close to 60k on each.



So to reiterate, oil branding is insignificant, change intervals are of paramount importance.

Now coming to the chain, application of gear oil is good enough, no need to clean with Diesel unless you really have a fetish for clean chains, oil in itself is self cleaning.

Originally Posted by shashank.nk

Had a query for CBR owners- do you feel any vibrations between the 5-6k rpm in your bike? I've noticed it in all the bikes I TD until now and in some cases it extends into the higher range as well. The vibrations can be felt only on the handle bar and nowhere else.

Just a generic comment.

Every motorcycle faces what's called resonance vibrations, it is usually between 4~6k RPM.

[shashank.nk]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Every motorcycle faces what's called resonance vibrations, it is usually between 4~6k RPM.

Yes my bike (2006 Pulsar 180) also has mild vibrations which fade away once the rpms climb. When I ride with gloves it's barely even felt, whereas the ones in the CBRs were much more prominent. I wore the same gloves when I TDd the bike as I do normally, and I could feel a lot more vibrations and since everyone says the CBR is vibe free I was wondering what's amiss.

[ManasN95]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Rimula I've stopped using as the pricing has considerably increased over the past few years

Now coming to the chain, application of gear oil is good enough, no need to clean with Diesel unless you really have a fetish for clean chains, oil in itself is self cleaning.

Hello Sir, thank you for dropping by. I have observed that you are a big advocate of using gear oil as chain lubricant over the threads I have read.

I had tried the HP EP90 Gear Oil as lubricant an year or so ago, and the chain was super silent, no doubt, it has been the most silent of all the lubricants I have tried, but the interval between two lubrications was too less and of course it did fling a lot. Maybe I did something wrong back then.

Can you please guide me as to how to ideally lubricate the chain with Gear Oil?

What I would follow with the current knowledge is:
1. Warm up the chain for 5-10 minutes
2. Clean with diesel and chain brush (I need the chain to be shiny, it's my fetish so can't skip this.)
3. Dry the chain as much as possible. (Any knack for doing this?)
4. Lubricate with oil through a dispenser. (I need some guidance regarding how much oil should I dispense?)
5. After half an hour or so, wipe down the excessive oil (dripping, if any) and done.

From what I have heard, not riding for 10-12 hours after a freshly lubricated chain (with Gear Oil) helps in less flinging of the oil.

Please advise if any changes.

About the Rimula, I do not mind paying 350 bucks per litre plus 50 bucks for the Yamaha FZ oil filter. Still cheaper than 1 litre bottle of the Shell Advanced Ultra (~800).


Update:

I am guilty of overlooking the air filter condition, it has become messy. Immediately placed an order. I did not think it would get soiled so much, but then, I failed to take into account the change of residence which is a lot dustier than last time around.
Photos of the Air filter and the Engine Oil condition attached.





I hope to have regular updates here.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

I had tried the HP EP90 Gear Oil as lubricant an year or so ago, and the chain was super silent, no doubt, it has been the most silent of all the lubricants I have tried, but the interval between two lubrications was too less

See my friend, I'm guessing what's bothering you is that the chain stops looking slick or you start getting some noise off the chain.

If that is the case then please note that it is perfectly normal, your motorcycle is equipped with a sealed chain, i.e critical lubrication is handled by O ring's that seal lubricant for the pin.

The only reason we lube a chain is to prevent it from rusting and keep the O rings supple.

So simply put, on a dry day you can easily clock 1000 km's on the chain after lubing it with gear oil, now this is just for benchmark, ideally on every break you take you're supposed to have a look at the chain, the roller is a really good indicator, when they start shining I go ahead and re-lube the chain

Now something that offers even more life and is more resilient when riding in the rain is Grease, it is a PITA to apply but I've done over 1.5k km's on a ride where I'd faced heavy downpour and I didn't have to bother about the chain until I got back home, unlike my co-riders who were lubing theirs every 500 km's or so.

So do go with whatever is convenient for you.

and of course it did fling a lot.

I honestly do not care much about flinging as I am not too uptight about my motorcycles being aesthetically appealing.

But if it bothers you do contemplate using grease instead.

Can you please guide me as to how to ideally lubricate the chain with Gear Oil?

In all honesty I simply do not devote that much time on my chains, when the rollers start to shine I simply apply gear oil or if I know I'd be clocking some serious miles then I apply grease.

And as for cleaning the last time I bothered to clean the chain on one of my motorcycles was back in 2011, haven't bothered since.

On my P220 I get well over 30k km's of chain life and on my CT100B I get barely 25k km's of chain life, which might seem contrary to popular experience but the thing is my CT100B is abused day in and day out whereas the P220 serves the purpose of a scooter or at best a safe means of transport when it rains courtesy softer compound tyres.

So to make things simply, with minimal maintenance you easily get by, but still the major determinant of chain life is determined by how you ride the motorcycle, but all said and done it is still a consumable, so don't put much thought into it, consume and replace.

About the Rimula, I do not mind paying 350 bucks per litre plus 50 bucks for the Yamaha FZ oil filter. Still cheaper than 1 litre bottle of the Shell Advanced Ultra (~800).

A few days ago I bought about 9 Liters of the Rimula T3 from Flipkart as it was available on offer for a price of under 200/liter. No loyalty there, If its cheap it turns me on!

I am guilty of overlooking the air filter condition,

A general thumb rule I follow for all my motorcycles is to replace the Air Filter at 5k intervals taking into consideration our riding conditions, I simply do not fancy cleaning and reusing an air filter even though that is what the manufacturer recommends.

But then again my AF costs about Rs.75/- a pop. So do proceed with a pinch of salt.

P.S. AF is one of those things that have a profound impact on ones cylinder life.

P.P.S. I noticed that you're lubing the clutch lever before installation, in that case do make sure you have a lever boot installed and do wipe off excess grease if its transferring on to the clutch cable. Grease on the cable exposed to the elements drastically bring down clutch cable life as the movement along with dust accumulation turns the grease into grinding paste and it grinds away at your clutch cable. Which again is another reason why one shouldn't go Indian on a clutch cable and simply replace it the moment it starts to develop some drag.

Ride Safe,
A.P.

[swiftnfurious]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

A small update:

I'll be putting in the Shell Rimula R4 15W40 Engine Oil (Specific for diesel engines) which has high ZDDP levels alongwith the Yamaha FZ Oil filter.

Filter - 50 bucks
Rimula R4 - 350 bucks each bottle....

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

.... A few days ago I bought about 9 Liters of the Rimula T3 from Flipkart as it was available on offer for a price of under 200/liter. No loyalty there, If its cheap it turns me on! ...

I see Rimula R4 is available only as a 5L can. Is this available as 1L or 1.5L? Want to try this for a 1000 km or so since I have been reading its effective.

Went to a shop and he said R3 (instead of R4) is available in 1L bottle. Does R3 or T3 make a substitute to R4?

[ManasN95]

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

I see Rimula R4 is available only as a 5L can. Is this available as 1L or 1.5L? Want to try this for a 1000 km or so since I have been reading its effective.

Hello, I have no issues getting the Shell Rimula R4 in 1L bottle, as a local oil supplier knows I need it from time to time, hence he has them in stock or makes it available on a days notice.

If you want, I can ship it to your place if you can't get hold on 1L bottles.
I am from Thane.

[swiftnfurious]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

Hello, I have no issues getting the Shell Rimula R4 in 1L bottle, as a local oil supplier knows I need it from time to time, hence he has them in stock or makes it available on a days notice.

If you want, I can ship it to your place if you can't get hold on 1L bottles.
I am from Thane.

Great. Let me check with few more shops or Shell fuel pumps. If I can get it here itself, less headaches but Thank you for the offer.