[iamgyan]

Originally Posted by Chasing_Dreams

If you’ve found alternative solutions for the O-ring issue, I’d greatly appreciate your suggestions.

I have an Oct'20 Baker Express and had this issue ONCE in 2021. The lockset was changed under warranty and I could clearly see that the Seal design was changed/updated in the replaced tank cap and I haven't faced a cut seal on tank cap issue since. I believe the issue is long fixed by RE themselves and unless you have an actual leak, no point in buying and replacing with third party options.

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by Aditya94

Could someone shed some light on this aspect? Has anyone gone all guns on their Interceptor?

Really depends on what you intend to do or achieve with this project. Is this motorcycle going to be a "Show Bike", or, are you thinking of putting it down on a drag strip and smoke everyone. Is this going to a daily rider? You need to ask yourself all of these questions before you head down this path. Its totally fine if its a "Show Bike" as these are unique projects that are nice to work on. I have seen some superbly executed mods.

If the intent is to replicate the performance and feel of a Triumph, please don't waste your money. These are two vastly different motorcycles. No matter what you do to an Interceptor, its never going to be a Triumph. A Triumph owner isn't going to be in awe that you are faster with all these modifications.

The other interesting bit about the Triumph is that even though they are heavier, you don't feel it all that much when you ride them. Its a better balanced bike and feels more relaxing to ride.

While we can't ignore the cost delta between these two motorcycles, there is no doubt on which is the superior of the two. To me, the Triumph wins hand down. If I had the cash, I would have bought it. Eyes closed. In my case, the motorcycle is used for touring/travel. My Interceptor isn't built for this and no matter what I do to it, it ain't going to be anywhere as capable or easy going as that 900 block on the Triumph.

I rode the black one pictured below and loved it.


This heavily modified Continental GT is essentially a Show Bike. After doing all these modifications, the owner told me he was going to sell it.

[ninjatalli]

Guys,
I'm sure this issue has been discussed; but couldn't find a relevant post.

So my 5+ old INT650 has this recurring problem of battery draining out when not used for over a week. After 2 (or 3) past occurrences in the last year, I replaced the battery (back in Oct) hoping the issue might be due to the old battery. But the issue has reappeared with my brand new battery; so clearly the issue is not that. The battery isn't getting charged as much as it needs to be.

Any pointers on this? For context, the RR unit failed last year and was replaced.

[Chasing_Dreams]

Originally Posted by iamgyan

I have an Oct'20 Baker Express and had this issue ONCE in 2021. The lockset was changed under warranty and I could clearly see that the Seal design was changed/updated in the replaced tank cap and I haven't faced a cut seal on tank cap issue since. I believe the issue is long fixed by RE themselves and unless you have an actual leak, no point in buying and replacing with third party options.

This is helpful. My vehicle is out of warranty as it's a 2019 model, and I am the second owner. This is likely to be an expensive affair. I will talk to the ASC to see if they can assist in any way other than suggesting a replacement of the lockset.

Does anyone know if the ASC sells the tank cap separately? I'm wondering if I could simply purchase a new tank cap and reuse the new O-ring with my existing cap. If anyone has any idea, I would greatly appreciate it.

[iamgyan]

Originally Posted by Chasing_Dreams

This is helpful. My vehicle is out of warranty as it's a 2019 model, and I am the second owner. This is likely to be an expensive affair. I will talk to the ASC to see if they can assist in any way other than suggesting a replacement of the lockset.

Does anyone know if the ASC sells the tank cap separately? I'm wondering if I could simply purchase a new tank cap and reuse the new O-ring with my existing cap. If anyone has any idea, I would greatly appreciate it.

I don't remember exactly but the whole lock set was around 5-6k i guess. They don't sell tank cap only.

[rajeevsulu]

30,000 kms update

My Interceptor 650 hit the 30,000 kms mark last month. 22 months of sheer pleasure,I must say. There were a few minor issues which needed sorting out and I got them done at the service centre.

The front brake had lost it's bite and needed new brake pads. The old ones had barely 10 % left. The chain sprocket set also had to be changed. Any amount of adjustment wasn't doing any good. The clutch cable was also a little weak.

The ASC did not have the chain sprocket set in stock and used up 5 days to procure the spare part. All other customary changes such as air and oil filter,oil, brake fluid top ups were done.

The spark plugs were checked and did not need to be changed. As is the case,the front fork "thud" noise was corrected by tightening the clamp. This is done at every service without fail.

As I had the Royal Enfield maestro package,I got a 5% reduction in spares price and 10% reduction in labour costs and normal service charges waived off. The package costs Rs.1299 and is valid for 1 year or 10,000 kms or 2 services.

After all the deductibles,my bill was Rs.9995. Chain sprocket set alone costs around Rs.4250-/. Front brake pads cost around Rs.2200-/. Other than the delay in procurement of the chain sprocket set, every thing else was uneventful.

I decided to reward myself and the Interceptor with alloys and tubeless tyres. This was a move I did not want to make,but, another flat at home pushed me into this. Throttle and Thump shipped me the alloys and vredestein tyres in 3 days flat. Cost Rs.30,500-/.

I am yet to get the alloys fixed on the bike as there are atleast a couple of thousand kilometres of tyre life left. That should be completed in a couple of weeks.

The bike is as good as new and giving me joy as always. I have averaged 26.75 kms to a litre of fuel althrough these 30,000 kms and that is good enough,I feel.

Attaching a few pictures.

Cheers

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by ninjatalli

Any pointers on this? For context, the RR unit failed last year and was replaced.

I've got the exact same issue. That said, the battery has never gone totally flat. The bike always cranks, albeit a little slowly. Typical weak battery symptoms. I've not attended to the issue (In over 2 years) as I've not faced a situation of the bike not cranking or starting up. I don't want to leave the bike with a garage either for extended periods of time. For as long as it runs, I've left it there.

What usually happens for me is, when I start the bike after a gap of two weeks, it fires up. I have the red battery symbol lit. About 10 minutes of riding, the battery symbol may go off. After extended cruising on the motorway, the symbol reappears. This is bizarre as when the motor is humming around 4,000 rpm's at 100kmph. The alternator should be at optimum speed to keep charging the battery. However, similar to what you experienced, it seems to be loosing charge at the same time. I don't know whats leading to that. If I pull over from a motorway ride for a break and try to start again, the starter motors turns over as its usual rate and the bike usually cranks in just half a turn. Suggesting the battery is in good health. However, the battery symbol is still lit.

All of this started one morning when I started the bike, put it into gear and released the clutch too fast and stalled the bike. Ever since that day, this issue has been there. As though the jolt of the bike stalling caused something to get loose in the wiring or some circuit fault. I can't quite put a finger on it.

I don't think this can be a RR issue by itself. If it is, you'll see other issues when the bike is running. Equally keen to know what you find in your investigation, or, once someone chimes here about it.

[DDIS_RE650]

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

I've got the exact same issue. That said, the battery has never gone totally flat. The bike always cranks, albeit a little slowly. Typical weak battery symptoms. I've not attended to the issue (In over 2 years) as I've not faced a situation of the bike not cranking or starting up. I don't want to leave the bike with a garage either for extended periods of time. For as long as it runs, I've left it there.

What usually happens for me is, when I start the bike after a gap of two weeks, it fires up. I have the red battery symbol lit. About 10 minutes of riding, the battery symbol may go off. After extended cruising on the motorway, the symbol reappears. This is bizarre as when the motor is humming around 4,000 rpm's at 100kmph. The alternator should be at optimum speed to keep charging the battery. However, similar to what you experienced, it seems to be loosing charge at the same time. I don't know whats leading to that. If I pull over from a motorway ride for a break and try to start again, the starter motors turns over as its usual rate and the bike usually cranks in just half a turn. Suggesting the battery is in good health. However, the battery symbol is still lit.

All of this started one morning when I started the bike, put it into gear and released the clutch too fast and stalled the bike. Ever since that day, this issue has been there. As though the jolt of the bike stalling caused something to get loose in the wiring or some circuit fault. I can't quite put a finger on it.

I don't think this can be a RR issue by itself. If it is, you'll see other issues when the bike is running. Equally keen to know what you find in your investigation, or, once someone chimes here about it.

Same issue with me, replaced the RR unit and changed the battery under warranty. Now only option left is to charge the battery using Bosch C7 charger, I have put two battery connector(extender) fixed on battery for ease of charging. You need to just remove the seat and connect with C7 charger.

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by DDIS_RE650

I have put two battery connector(extender) fixed on battery for ease of charging.

I have a battery tender cable installed. This is not a solution to the issue though. Makes no difference in terms of the battery holding charge. I plug in to charger and it reports full in no time at all. Once I ride the bike for a little bit, the battery symbol is back.

[sab3r2th]

Originally Posted by Chasing_Dreams

This is helpful. My vehicle is out of warranty as it's a 2019 model, and I am the second owner. This is likely to be an expensive affair. I will talk to the ASC to see if they can assist in any way other than suggesting a replacement of the lockset.

Does anyone know if the ASC sells the tank cap separately? I'm wondering if I could simply purchase a new tank cap and reuse the new O-ring with my existing cap. If anyone has any idea, I would greatly appreciate it.

The entire lockset costs around Rs 2000 to replace. Not expensive.

[InterMan666]

Hi, I've been riding around my second hand 2021 Inty for a month and it's been great. But now I'm noticing some fluctuations in idle RPM, where once the engine also cut as the RPM dropped below 1K. You can see the video here -

https://youtube.com/watch?v=IqBeUA8T...725wMOdb-nt-Vx

Notes - I installed a new Phillips bulb - Automotive H4 12342 Racingvision Gt200 12V 60/55W
And the powerage slipon exhausts recently. (I noticed the fluctuation even before this)

I would like to know if this is a cause of concern? And if it's caused by something simple like sparkplug cleaning, relay cleaning etc. or something bigger? What should be my course of troubleshooting.

TIA

Originally Posted by rajeevsulu

30,000 kms update

I decided to reward myself and the Interceptor with alloys and tubeless tyres. This was a move I did not want to make,but, another flat at home pushed me into this. Throttle and Thump shipped me the alloys and vredestein tyres in 3 days flat. Cost Rs.30,500-/.

Hi, I would like to know which alloys did you get? Stock interceptor ones or any other? As I've heard the meteor 350 rear alloy is also a direct fit but 17 inch and that opens up more tyre options.
Please also tell which exact vredestein tyres you got?

[rajeevsulu]

These are the original Royal Enfield alloy wheels. I got the Vredestein Centauro tyres. Though I considered the 17" alloys,I did not want to mess up with the gearing. Hence, I stuck to the original 18 inch option. Here too multiple options are available. Vredestein,MRF, Pirelli all have tyres. It is not as bad as before, though, getting wider aspect tyres may be an issue.

Cheers

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by InterMan666

Hi, I've been riding around my second hand 2021 Inty for a month and it's been great. But now I'm noticing some fluctuations in idle RPM, where once the engine also cut as the RPM dropped below 1K.

The idle does fluctuate a little bit. Yours is a bit too much. Should never dip below 1,000 rpm, cut out or skip a beat like it does in the video at the 7-8 second mark.

You sure you put back the spark plug terminals back in the same order? Its impossible to make a mistake for this bike, as the terminals are exposed on each side. Left to left. Right to right cylinder.

A simple bulb replacement should not cause an issue. It seems to be stock specification.

You need to ask yourself what changed within the month post purchase? If you did remove the spark plug or any of the relays, inspect them once again. Especially the relays. They should not be loose in their sockets. At the rate of movement of the rpm, it almost like its skipping a beat aka no spark or something. Check wires running to the battery and if they are secure to the battery terminals.

[InterMan666]

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

The idle does fluctuate a little bit. Yours is a bit too much. Should never dip below 1,000 rpm, cut out or skip a beat like it does in the video at the 7-8 second mark.

You sure you put back the spark plug terminals back in the same order? Its impossible to make a mistake for this bike, as the terminals are exposed on each side. Left to left. Right to right cylinder.

A simple bulb replacement should not cause an issue. It seems to be stock specification.

You need to ask yourself what changed within the month post purchase? If you did remove the spark plug or any of the relays, inspect them once again. Especially the relays. They should not be loose in their sockets. At the rate of movement of the rpm, it almost like its skipping a beat aka no spark or something. Check wires running to the battery and if they are secure to the battery terminals.

I'm going to look into each aspect one by one. I have just found a video where a guy shows that the hose for air sensor under the fuel tank is sometimes unplugged and that's why the ECU compensates. Will check that out. Thank you for your comment.

[adises]

Someone seems to have crashed into my motorcycle with their scooter while it was parked. Any idea how I can get the dent fixed?