[adwaith]

Originally Posted by yesyeswe

^^ the wobbling doesn't happen like that, you reach speeds of around 100 kmph then you leave your arms(that's seriously stupid i know) and at around 80 kmph the handle wobbles vigorously, as the speed reduces it stops.

I had read about this issue so many times so i gave it a shot and it happened to my bike as well, took it to svc and they tightened the t stem bolt and it somehow reduced it a lot, moreover i have stopped leaving my arms at 100 kmph, i don't want to die while checking the wobbling.

Regarding the puncture, removing the tyre is fairly easy, it's the installing that's difficult due to the weight of the tyre plus we have to slide the disc calliper into the slot provided in the swing arm . I have done this two times and at both times i was praying to my departed grandfather to help me with the installation process

Outex is very expensive, why don't you give try to cheaper Outex replacements which are available in the market for half the price.

I've read about the issue and seen a video as well. Never really experienced it, probably owing to the fact that I'm not daring enough to let go off the handle bars and there are no straight enough roads for me to try it out either. But will there not be a slight feeling on your arms, if it is really that unstable?

I've called RSA anyway, because I don't want to risk it. I don't think I have the necessary tools either. I must say the RSA guy was not especially nice. I don't want to say rude, but he's borderline there. I understand it's a Sunday and all of that, you can be courteous. In addition, they don't have a technician available and that they'll tow it to the nearest service centre. I asked him what happens thereafter but the service seems to be rather unresourceful. They even said they don't know if anything could be done today,including the towing, since it's a Sunday. When I paid for this I was told the service would be 24x7, but hardly seems that way.

I'm glad I'm at home and not stuck on the middle of the road at a place I'm not familiar with, because I would just be stranded until they decided to give a damn.

Hopefully, things work and she gets back on the road soon.

As for Outex alternatives, can you recommend something?

Thanks!

[yesyeswe]

Originally Posted by adwaith

As for Outex alternatives, can you recommend something?

Thanks!

https://youtu.be/OS4gO4FJsUk

Watch this video, the product is from way2speed, costs only 5k

[Beast_of_Burden]

I just got back from from a fantastic ride on Magadi road. Perhaps the best string of fast sweepers near Bangalore. Road surface is mostly good but it's bad in parts, something my ZMA dismisses with utter disdain. It's the undisputed bad road king. So I showed up on my trusty ZMA still on oriiginal tyres and chain with 27k kms on the odo, talk about frugal motorcycling. But I digress. This was my first experience with anything that might be called exotic suspension.

Magadi road is a pretty good test of a bike's handling, with conditions varying constantly and plenty of elevation changes thrown in.

Most people by now what I think of the INTs handing. I had surmised that the underdamped suspension has the bike doing a pogo stick mid corner. The bike has a tendency to stand up and I think it suffers pronounced understeer as well as a tendency to run wide mid corner. The front end is vague as well and feels floaty. The ride was Okay in a straight line. But the reality of Indian riding conditions is that you need a bit of margin to correct your line, absorb a bump and not lose composure. To be honest, as good as the value is for the overall package, it left me a bit underwhelmed. Harris' Engineering has a track record that did not seem manifest here.


I will say this at the outset, the handling is transformed. To truly appreciate the potential of the INT it needs this suspension upgrade, it is an absolute must have. It's that good and the transformation that significant. Some riding impresions, a lot of it is an echo of my friend's earlier feedback.

1. Bike feels nimble, you feel the heft in a nice way. It's a retro motorcycle, not a supersport at the end of the day. Direction changes are totally intuitive, no need for sweating line and length. I felt a far greater sense of control, using more of the throttle to place the bike where I wanted.

2. It feels planted inspiring a lot of confidence, now there is no trepidation when approaching a corner.

3. Tires were stock, mechanical grip has gone up dramatically. Tires weren't on my mind.

4. The buzzkill of understeer is gone. No standing up or running wide. It feels very natural.


The ride hasn't suffered one bit despite its newfound handling prowess. I found the bike genuinely playful. AEW exhausts sound amazing. Engine braking in any of the top 3 gears on the overrun is accompanied by a very satisfying burble. Bike is very civil and docile at 80 in sixth, it's still burbling at this point in the rev band. Post this it starts getting a move on and a little bit of the Japanese character comes in. Unlike my Zma which is at its limit on highways, the INT settles into a nice lope. I like this bike's double personality. The upgrade seat is hard, but the ergos are far better suited to me compared to the Continental GT.

On a road like this the ZMA is no slouch, it's light and forgiving. My friend had no trouble keeping up, while I was being a bit cautious on the INT. He on the other hand could easily run away from me when I was riding the ZMA. The INT is geniune fun and also full of character, the suspension upgrade just lets you enjoy the bike to it's full measure. But for the stock suspension bits, you realize what a great package it already is. It is very good but also a bit disappointing, RE needs to do something about the suspension to make the twins world class.

[GrandTourer]

Originally Posted by adwaith

I'm also here to talk about my adventures with my Interceptor or misadventure rather. This evening after golf I decided to take a ride, but that was cut short owing to a puncture.
...

The guy there was upfront and said that he hadn't worked on an Interceptor before but he also said that it couldn't be very different from the others and went on to work on it. He struggled a bit while taking the tyre off but thereafter he was able to get it off without much trouble.

Thanks Adwaith for such a detailed analysis. This right here is my biggest fear. The bike weighs 200 kg. Dragging the bike on a punctured tyre will be a nightmare for both me and the tyre. Plus, it being tubed, it will lose air immediately on puncture, unlike a tubeless, which runs for a few metres at least to let you stabilize and stop at the side of the road.

Originally Posted by ashishk29

Some common issues that I personally faced(in no particular order or sequence):
1. ...


Hope that helps.

Thank you Ashish for pointing these out. Regarding the soft suspension on the front, I did not feel it much on the TD. I probably need to take another one. Maybe I was carried away by the motor, and didn't really notice it. Definitely need to take on a bad patch of road in the next TD.
Rest of the points, I can probably live with or fix with simple accessories.

[philipmathen]

Word for word, pretty much the same issues I faced with very sedate riding on twisty sections or roads with patches where the resurfacing is uneven. Add to that the terrific rains in Kerala lately. I too had a first gen zma, and that’s when your brain realises that the INT needs an urgent suspension upgrade. Only thing holding me back is the warranty. Really tough decision. Any idea if the warranty is immediately void?

Originally Posted by Beast_of_Burden

Most people by now what I think of the INTs handing. I had surmised that the underdamped suspension has the bike doing a pogo stick mid corner. The bike has a tendency to stand up and I think it suffers pronounced understeer as well as a tendency to run wide mid corner. The front end is vague as well and feels floaty. The ride was Okay in a straight line. But the reality of Indian riding conditions is that you need a bit of margin to correct your line, absorb a bump and not lose composure.

[rohittunga]

Here is a review of the GT650 by Matt Farah

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XubW...TheSmokingTire

[Beast_of_Burden]

Originally Posted by philipmathen

Word for word, pretty much the same issues I faced with very sedate riding on twisty sections or roads with patches where the resurfacing is uneven. Add to that the terrific rains in Kerala lately. I too had a first gen zma, and that’s when your brain realises that the INT needs an urgent suspension upgrade. Only thing holding me back is the warranty. Really tough decision. Any idea if the warranty is immediately void?

I doubt the warranty is impacted, but I say screw the warranty. I felt safer with the upgraded suspension. In the grand scheme, it's not that expensive since it actually works. Completely reversible and non-intrusive. I paid 72k for the ZMA back then nearly new, now just the suspension upgrade on the INT costs more. Still, the INT with the YSS suspension is quite the package.

On broken, repaved, uneven roads I don't think anything can touch the ZMA for ride quality. We weren't riding sedately, but briskly. My friends comment after the ride was - the ZMA left the factory with a suspension that does not need an upgrade. While on the stock INT you have to ride it sedately, it quickly becomes a chore. We had done this same loop on a stock Continental GT in January and boy did we regret that choice. The ZMA was in great demand that time.

Magadi road reminds me a lot about Kerala's gently undulating terrain and the hills. That was many years ago on bullets. The bullet and those roads were made for each other. Glory days. Ride safe.

[JayPrashanth]

Originally Posted by adwaith

I called the dealership and the executive told me that I shouldn't take it to local shops since they all have trouble with putting the brake mechanism back on, especially with the ABS. I've now parked her in the garage and will call RSA and have them come down tomorrow. Keeping my fingers crosses and hoping it isn't something serious or expensive, because I've just managed to muster up ₹4,000 for a new handle bar and the clutch lever.

The only thing that kind of seems good that come out of this is that my dad asked me to get the Outex tubeless kit, no matter the cost. Please let me know if it is worth getting or not.

Also, if you have any recommendations for aftermarket lever, please let me know.

Thanks!

I was in a similar quandary until yesterday. I now happen to live in a small town in the Western Ghats, and I may be here for an extended period of time. The nearest Royal Enfield dealer is in Madgaon, Goa, about 60 Kms away. My leisure rides take me to places deep in the ghats, where most roads are maintained or rather not maintained by the forest department. And then I also like exploring cycle/bullock cart tracks a bit. Getting a puncture there means struggling to get back. When this happens in rain.... and it rains a lot here.

I had four options:


1. The 'Free' option: Learn how to remove and put back the rear wheel. I watched it once and tried it once. IMHO, it's tedious in the best of time.

2. OUTEX. An expensive, 14k purchase and 2k install. Made-in-Japan. Lot of ADV guys use it. I would have gone with OUTEX had I lived in Pune or BLR but the place I live in means that support is slim/non-existent. Besides, OUTEX lasts for 3 years I think ((manufacturer certified) and needs periodic replacement. Worth it every 2-3 years? Not sure. And installation? Touch and go stuff is what I've heard from people who already have walked this road.

3. Way2Speed. Quite affordable at 5k something. Besides, Melwin Daniel is a friend from a long time and really puts 100 % into everything he does but putting adhesive into an aluminium rim and making it work without issues is best left to professionals. And there are no professionals who have done it before in my neck of woods. So, I'm somehow not very comfortable with risking it, although a lot of people have has happy experiences.

4. Alloy wheels. Royal Enfield has yet to launch their units. Royal Erado (not sure who runs it. I guess the Chinese run it.) makes UGLY ones, like really UGLY ones. Was puke-inducing stuff to me until I watched a video from RideWithRaj on Youtube. He's powder coated the alloys, in black, and it looks passable now. I still don't like the protrusion on the rims but at least, it's bearable aesthetically. I called up one Mr. Mukesh Ranka who runs BS Auto Accessories on Grant Road, Mumbai, and he had black, powder coated rims in stock. He says the powder coating will easily handle Mumbai monsoonsm and the corrosion that the sea brings. I have gone with his word on this, and I just paid about Rs. 9,400 for a set of two Royal Erado alloys, in black. I should be receiving them by the weekend.

My kind of riding involves saddling on broken roads and no roads but not rocks or crazy off roading. I have ridden bikes with OEM alloy wheels on such roads without issues. Let's see what happens with aftermarket alloys. Besides, the Int 650 is at best a reasonable scrambler (like the Triumph 900) with suspension upgrades, and too heavy to be an XPulse.

Other big issues on the bike: Suspension needs some work (aftermarket stuff to increase travel and make it stiffer), which I will execute shortly. But for now I'm focusing on alloys, so that punctures will no longer be a problem. And that to me is peace of mind. Priceless.

Will put down my thoughts on how the rims hold up in time. I just shared this as punctures can be a major hassle for people away from the bigger cities. Also, there are a multitude of options, which may be difficult to navigate for many.

Cheers,

Jay

[ashwinprakas]

I see a lot of suspension queries so here goes;

Front Suspension:

The length of travel depends upon the length of your damper rod, if you use a spacer to extend it then you'll get more travel.

If preload is what is bothering you then play with the preload spacer, longer adds preload, shorter reduces it.

If it is damping that's the bother then it's dependent on the grade of oil you use, again thicker oil gives more damping.

If bottoming out is the issue then you need to look at alternate springs, just measure the diameter of your fork tube and have a go at alternatives from Motorcycles with similar Dia, also to note adding more fork oil also helps as it affects air gap, reduce it and the forks would face more resistance.

Rear Suspension:

Generally twin shocks have similar mounts at best you'd have to change the rubber damper and metal sleeve to suit your mount.

Measure the height of your stock shocks and also compress it by putting your body weight on it. It'd give you a fair estimate of where you'd want to be.

After that simply go out looking for something that'd suit your needs, a pair of shocks cost anywhere from 1.5 to 5k depending on whether you get Gabriel or Endurance or Showa.

Do keep in mind that if you contemplate changing height of the motorcycle it'd also affect your wheelbase which means you'd have to keep an eye on the chain length as well. Taller shocks means shorter chain and shorter shocks means longer chain, keep an eye on squat, If you do not know that just hit the search function and you'd stumble upon my thread explaining the same.

Hope that helped.

[ArizonaJim]

Slightly off topic, I thought you might be interested to know, a team in the USA has greatly modified the Royal Enfield 650 to make it suitable for racing in the American Flat Track races.
These races are run on a flat, oval, dirt track, usually 1/2 mile (.80 km) in length. The track usually has very short straightaway's and large corners which results in the motorcycles racing while leaned over with the rider using a steel shoe on his left foot skidding on the dirt to support himself and the motorcycle. While racing in these corners, the motorcycles are actually "drifting" or sliding while sending "rooster tails" of dirt into the air and anyone behind them.
Speeds in these corners are usually around 80 mph (130 kmph) with higher speeds o the short straight's.
Flat track racing has been going on for over 100 years, world wide.

The motorcycles frame, wheels and engine are highly modified and they have no front brakes.

The Royal Enfield team managed to place 6th in their first race and for a newcomer to the sport, that's commendable.

Here's a link to the story.

https://ultimatemotorcycling.com/202...n-twins-class/

[nasirkaka]

If it is damping that's the bother then it's dependent on the grade of oil you use, again thicker oil gives more damping.

I intend to experiment a bit with the suspension on the interceptor. I have never dabbled into any sort of major suspension modification so very new to this part of the bike. I will be starting with front with a new set of progressive springs, slightly longer then the stock, along with a preload adjuster, damper rod extender and suitable spacer tube. The oil is of a much thicker grade with additives to maintain viscosity over time. I have been advised to slightly increase the dia of the holes on dampener rod for better oil flow and improved damping. As this will be like a non-reversible mod, what are your thoughts on the same.

Will put down my thoughts on how the rims hold up in time. I just shared this as punctures can be a major hassle for people away from the bigger cities. Also, there are a multitude of options, which may be difficult to navigate for many.

A puncture on a heavy bike like interceptor is a bother esp in your geographical conditions. It keeps playing on my mind when i take the interceptor to slightly remote areas. Hoping for the meteor rims to be a direct fit

The Royal Enfield team managed to place 6th in their first race and for a newcomer to the sport, that's commendable.

Flat track is catching up in india. We have one close to Bangalore too where the bikes are customized for flat track and sponsored by RE such as these.

[JayPrashanth]

Originally Posted by GrandTourer

Thank you Ashish for pointing these out. Regarding the soft suspension on the front, I did not feel it much on the TD. I probably need to take another one. Maybe I was carried away by the motor, and didn't really notice it. Definitely need to take on a bad patch of road in the next TD.
Rest of the points, I can probably live with or fix with simple accessories.

Stock suspension is soft for anyone who wants to ride the Interceptor hard on multiple surfaces. A big pothole or a sudden bump at speed: the Interceptor bottoms out. And this can get really dangerous.

I had one such moment last week on a rural road with a sudden bump, and the Interceptor went clanging. :-D

While I didn't lose control, things would have been different had I been even a 10 Kph faster. So, good suspension doesn't just make the Interceptor 650 more fun to ride but also makes it much safer.

PS: I think Royal Enfield intentionally cut corners to keep the bike affordable enough to do great numbers. And allow enough space for the aftermarket. In fact, Sid Lal at the 650 twins launch specifically said that he expects to see the aftermarket part scene improve thanks to the Twins. It has. Many Indian entrepreneurs now make parts for the Twins. He even said that a whole leisure-touring ecosystem would be built around the twins: People could start touring companies keeping the Twins as the base, and this could encourage more travel and entrepreneurship, and so on. This could happen once the lockdown etc, goes. Basically, Twins = Leisure.

Cheers,

Jay

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

I intend to experiment a bit with the suspension on the interceptor. I have never dabbled into any sort of major suspension modification so very new to this part of the bike.

Once you understand the basics of how the suspension works and what factors come into play then all that is required is making changes as per your requirement. Even if you plan to reach out to any suspension experts it’d be best to understand what does what so that you’d not be taken for a ride.

I will be starting with front with a new set of progressive springs, slightly longer then the stock

Do make sure you’re being charged for progressive springs and not dual rate springs. A pair of dual rate springs costs about 300~350/- and are quite commonly available within the OE range of products, my P220 for example comes with dual rate springs from factory.

It might seem petty but a good number of seasoned enthusiasts cannot distinguish between progressive and dual rate springs.

along with a preload adjuster

Why do you need a preload adjuster if you’re going to be altering the preload spacer?

I do understand the hype of adjustable suspension but if your approach is systematic you do not need to think about adjusters at least at this point. If you set the motorcycle right and would be using the motorcycle “normally” and would change consumables periodically then you really do not need preload adjusters I.e unless you’d be sharing your motorcycle with several others or plan to beat the shit out of it.

damper rod extender and suitable spacer tube.

With the increase in travel I presume you’ve done necessary calculations with respect to clearance,if so all is well.

Get multiple preload spacers made of varying lengths of 5mm deviation from stock in both directions. This would help you set your sag accordingly. I insist on both directions since you’re making way too many changes at once, so helps to be prepared, plus you can easily swap the preload spacer by popping the cap.

The oil is of a much thicker grade with additives to maintain viscosity over time.

When funds were short I’ve run engine oil in my forks to arrest a leak cause by a scored fork tube, so I believe I can say from experience that a thicker oil does impact damping but not to the point of awe. Your air gap has a more prominent impact here.

I have been advised to slightly increase the dia of the holes on dampener rod for better oil flow and improved damping. As this will be like a non-reversible mod, what are your thoughts on the same.

This is confusing, increasing size of ports on the damper rods will affect compression and rebound but in the other direction of what you hope to achieve with a thicker grade oil, hence the confusion. Not saying its a bad mod as it improves reaction but at the cost of damping.

Plus I’d reiterate that you’re making way too many changes at once, identifying your requirement and then taking a more systematic approach would be the way to go IMHO.

[adwaith]

Originally Posted by yesyeswe

https://Youtu.be/OS4gO4FJsUk
Watch this video, the product is from way2speed, costs only 5k

I'm kinda skeptical about the evenness of the layer of paste and I'm scared that there may be gaps as well. This is where Outex inspires more confidence. The layer will be even and there are no chances for gaps. Thanks though!

Originally Posted by GrandTourer

Thanks Adwaith for such a detailed analysis. This right here is my biggest fear. The bike weighs 200 kg. Dragging the bike on a punctured tyre will be a nightmare for both me and the tyre. Plus, it being tubed, it will lose air immediately on puncture, unlike a tubeless, which runs for a few metres at least to let you stabilize and stop at the side of the road.

You can try out Outex or Formula X. It kind of helps. There are aftermarket alloys too. Without these, it's extremely difficult to be honest.

Originally Posted by JayPrashanth

I was in a similar quandary until yesterday. I now happen to live in a small town in the Western Ghats, and I may be here for an extended period of time. The nearest Royal Enfield dealer is in Madgaon, Goa, about 60 Kms away. My leisure rides take me to places deep in the ghats, where most roads are maintained or rather not maintained by the forest department. And then I also like exploring cycle/bullock cart tracks a bit. Getting a puncture there means struggling to get back. When this happens in rain.... and it rains a lot here.

I want to keep the spoke wheels as I like the looks and I haven't found a aftermarket alloy design I like as yet. Outex and Way2Speed are in consideration but I'm leaning towards Outex.

I like going off onto lesser used roads as well, but I'm scared to take her because she sits lower than I would like for her to and also because she hit a speed breaker as well. I'm still waiting to install the sump guard which I bought a while ago.

As for the suspension I've the rear ones two points harder than stock. Can't afford anything more at the moment.

An update on the RSA situation. They called back saying that the showroom stays open till 5 PM and that they can said a tow truck in about 4 hours, but it would have to come from Coimbatore which is about 85 km away and then it's another hour to the service center in Ooty. They had initially said it would go to Coimbatore for service and didn't know about the one in Ooty.

Owing to the fact that the truck wouldn't make it in time I asked them to pick it up this morning. The tow truck service was CUPT cranes, who were very prompt and courteous and I enjoyed their service. They followed up all the way till the showroom took up the case.

As for the showroom, the bike was dropped off at 9:30AM. The guy there called me at around 10:30 AM and told me that he would call me with an assessment and estimate soon, but he didn't call me at all. Didn't pick up the phone either. I got hold of another number and he picked and told me he was out and would call me back in 10 minutes. He didn't call or pick up the phone either.

Finally, the family's personal trainer (He's from Ooty BTW) dropped by on way home and they said it would take an hour. I tried calling a couple of hours later to no avail. The personal trainer went again which is when they started the work. It turned out that the the ABS sensor was broken which was also what was causing the pulsating while depressing the brake lever.

It cost ₹1050 to fix and I had the bike back by 7 in the evening. Things seem fine now, I'll have a better assessment tomorrow when I take it for a longer ride.

All in all, lesson learned. Never going to the local puncture shops anymore. Need to figure out some other solution soon.

Thanks!

[nasirkaka]

Plus I’d reiterate that you’re making way too many changes at once, identifying your requirement and then taking a more systematic approach would be the way to go IMHO.

Sorry, i was not clear. Like i said suspension tech is new to me, i would dare not attempt all those mods at one one go. I am getting a front suspension kit from Way2Speed which comprises of:
* Custom front fork progressive springs, Will get two sets of varied hardness, can try both in tandom and see which suits better if any.
* Preload adjuster cum fork extender. The collar of this preload adjuster cap is longer so can raise the triple t by 5 to 15 mm, if desired.
* spacer tube for the spring
* Dampner rod extender - will give 10mm extra suspension travel.
* SAE grade 10W fork oil with some additives to prevent loss of viscosity with heat.

Now, Melwin (from way2speed) is comeup with this kit basis his experimentation for a while now. Some people have already installed this kit and have positive things to say. So i am hoping the finer calculations have been taken care of either in theory or during practicals. The Kit has a standard progressive spring but he is willing to customize basis riders specific requirement too. As a part of this suspension kit mod, he recommends increasing the dia of the ports on dampner rod by 1mm (not mandatory though). This is something which seems irreversible and i am not sure how easy it would be to just get oem dampner rod incase i need to revert back to stock. So wanted to get a idea on how critical this is and whether to go ahead or not.
Some Interceptor rider friends here @ Bangalore have already been experimenting with himalayan springs, Thunderbird springs, two springs inplace of spacer and so on with different and interesting results. Interceptor is not my daily use bike, so i can afford to experiment and bit and see if the suspension can be improved upon. I guess more learning will happen as we start doing it.