[srini1785]

Stand corrected. Mistook the pickup coil as excitor coil.

The circuit diagram for current flow is given in blue while the pulser connection in red. Correct me if wrong.

While in the firing diagram that i have given the flow of current is giving in red. The diode basically rectifies the excitor coil current and feeds the charging capacitor.

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by srini1785

My 2 paise before we close this thread.

Depending on interest levels, a long way off!

Am travelling. Will be sometime before in front of a proper keyboard.

Regards
Sutripta

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by srini1785

Stand corrected. Mistook the pickup coil as excitor coil.

I presumed so.

While in the firing diagram that i have given the flow of current is giving in red. The diode basically rectifies the excitor coil current and feeds the charging capacitor.

That wiring diagram is from a motorcycle that runs off a AC CDI.

Originally Posted by Sutripta

Depending on interest levels, a long way off!

I doubt that, we have the battery part settled(though it would be nice if someone could demonstrate how to practically take amp reading of the stator and other components).

As for difference between AC and DC ignition I believe that the same has been covered in the beginning of this thread.

But if I've missed out anything please do point out, would be glad to update my understanding.

Regards,
A.P.

[srini1785]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

That wiring diagram is from a motorcycle that runs off a AC CDI.

May i know how you reached that conclusion?.

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

though it would be nice if someone could demonstrate how to practically take amp reading of the stator and other components

I don't know how you connected the multimeter but the rule is that when reading amps , you connect the leads in series with the load. While reading volts, you connect the leads across the load.

In this case , you set it to AC Fused.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by srini1785

May i know how you reached that conclusion?.

One terminal is grounded.

In a DC system there''s no exciter/primary coil on the stator. Both terminals of the winding feed the RR Unit, which feeds the battery and then finally the battery feeds the CDI.

You can have a look at the stator's of both motorcycles running with AC and CD CDI, if you go back to my reply that triggered this debate.

Link (Major battery issue with the BMW G 310 R and GS! BMW Motorrad India is unresponsive)

I don't know how you connected the multimeter but the rule is that when reading amps , you connect the leads in series. While reading volts, you connect the leads across.

In this case , you set it to AC Fused.

Yes I do get the part where it is supposed to be connected in series for amps, but my concern is;

1. What is the ideal way to do it on a motorcycle without having to pull pins out of the stator connector.

2. The regular multi-meter comes with only 10DCA Unfused, so what equipment needs to be used?

Hence why I believe it would be best for someone who has done the same to demonstrate it to us, or at least for me and the likes who've not done it before.

Regards,
A.P.

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by Motard_Blr

CCA measurement requires a charged 12 V battery to be discharged at the rated cold cranking amps while retaining between 7.2 V to 9.0 V, depending on the test method.

For automotive use, normally 8V is taken to be terminal voltage during cranking.
CCA - Not only is the engine cold, the battery is also supposed to be cold. For proper field testing the whole vehicle is first subjected to a cold soak.

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

I doubt that, we have the battery part settled

Lots of questions, but too many questions (and answers) in the same post muddies the waters.

So to return to battery size/ rating, your contention is that
It should be able to power all loads excluding self starter for one hour.
And CCA is really an academic figure with no real relevance when it comes to sizing the battery.

Pls. confirm that I have understood these two points of yours right.

Regards
Sutripta

[ashwinprakas]

I had reached out to a fellow enthusiast(Thanks Elroy a.k.a DanPada!) from a far away land and he guided me to a video that shows how to make a DIY Amp meter at home with the the help of a high gauge wire and a regular multi-meter.

How to test an alternator the right way!

Using this you could test Amp draw and be able to come to a more definite conclusion.

Regards,
A.P.

[NiInJa]

Hi Ashwin, this is a very informative thread, thanks for posting.

I stumbled upon this when I was looking at some issues my R15 (2010 model) is facing. Here is my concern:

When all electricals are on: Two headlights 35W, Tail lights and radiator fan is working, the voltage at the battery is just about 12 volts. So if I use the horn it sounds meek, until I revv it past 4000 rpm. I am not sure why that should be the case, the wiring is stock with no auxiliary additions whatsoever. I checked the voltage using a multimeter and here is what I saw:

1. Idling with no lights on and fan off : 14.2 volts
2. Idling with low beam and brake lights applied: 13.4 volts
3. Idling with High beam (both lights ON ) and brake applied : 12.7-12.9 volts
4. Idling with all lights (front and rear) and radiator fan : 12.2 volts
5. Idling with all lights + Radiator fan on + horn : 11.8
6. All lights + Radiator + Horn : Voltage increases as rpms increase, at around 4000 rpms, it becomes 13.8 V at which horn does not sound meek.
7. Battery Voltage when Ignition OFF: 12.8

The battery is a 1 year old VRLA type, 2.5 Ah (I swapped it when I sold dad's Activa, as his battery was brand new). Not sure why the bike's electricals cant handle all load below 4000 rpms. Its too irritating to hear the horn sound as if its out of breath, especially in city traffic when the fan kicks in most of the time.

Any help would be appreciated ! Thanks !

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by NiInJa

2.5 Ah

Are you sure that the manufacturer recommends using a 2.5Ah battery?

Asking cause your concern could easily be from using a smaller battery than recommended, and I'm no expert about the R15 but somehow 2.5Ah doesn't quite seem right.

Please refer to the owners manual and confirm.

Regards,
A.P.

[NiInJa]

Thanks !
The battery rating is not as per Yamaha's specifications. For R15, 5Ah battery is specified. But isn't it true that Ah rating is not related to how much power one can draw through the battery, rather it only decides the time duration for extracting same power ? I don't do long highway rides at nights so for the most part use low beam.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by NiInJa

Thanks !
The battery rating is not as per Yamaha's specifications. For R15, 5Ah battery is specified. But isn't it true that Ah rating is not related to how much power one can draw through the battery, rather it only decides the time duration for extracting same power ? I don't do long highway rides at nights so for the most part use low beam.

Yes, but if there isn't adequate backup then obviously the electricals would start to underperform.

Even on my CT100B that came with a 2.5Ah battery, when I decided to use a capacitor instead the electricals were fine at idle, provided I do not turn them all ON at the same time.

If say I turn the blinkers ON and then use the horn then it would chirp in rhythm to the blinkers. This went away as soon as I gave her some throttle.

Could be the exact same concern with your motorcycle, plus it is only common logic to not deviate from the OEM setup on fuel injected motorcycles prioritising safety of components as well as the rider.

Regards,
A.P.

[Romins]

I have a weird issue with my 2017 KTM Duke 200.
One fine day, the display on the console started going crazy with a few lines not being displayed. After two days, self was not working and I assumed it was the problem with the battery and got it bench-charged and connected. The self start worked fine, but the display was completely gone including the orange back-light.

We rode to Highlander in HSR Layout and they checked the battery and console. Service engineer connected another console and it was working fine, so the verdict was console is damaged. We asked them to remove the console and carried this to Kerala. The first service center at Thrissur tried to open the tamper-proof seal but not successful and declared it was damaged with moisture.

The second shop at Alleppey - Ashwin Auto-Lab opened the seal and found that the strip connecting to LCD display is damaged. Ajish at Ashwin Auto-Lab gave me the reference of a meter service shop at Bangalore on CMH road - Soni Meter Sevice. The veteran technician at Soni Meter Service - Mr. Ramesh Soni - checked the meter and declared it has absolutely no issues, except the display cable. Meter was working fine, though two lines of the display is missing.

We returned to Highlander with the console and connected it and everything is working fine! But while checking the battery, it was found that the charging voltage not increasing. Stator coil was burned and it was replaced. But the charging voltage was not going above 13.4V as of now.

We have been riding the motorcycle for 2 weeks since then and covered 600km. The bike is starting without any hiccups and the console is working fine.

What is the ideal charging voltage for Duke 200? Does it vary from bike to bike?
What could be the reason for voltage drop?
Does the console or any other component cause this voltage drop?

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Romins

What is the ideal charging voltage for Duke 200?

At idle you should get around 13.5V.

Does it vary from bike to bike?

This is more or less a benchmark.

The logical thought process is that there should be more than enough oomph to power every electrical on the motorcycle at the same time without causing inconvenience to the rider.

What could be the reason for voltage drop?

You have only two areas to look at, problem is either at the source i.e Stator+RR Unit or Excess Draw.

A multi meter and the patience to diagnose your charging system would give you a clear picture of what's at fault.

Always keep an eye out for surface charge it is very misleading.

Regards,
A.P.

[srini1785]

Originally Posted by Romins

Stator coil was burned and it was replaced. But the charging voltage was not going above 13.4V as of now.

What is the ideal charging voltage for Duke 200? Does it vary from bike to bike?
What could be the reason for voltage drop?
Does the console or any other component cause this voltage drop?

13.5V is not that bad a charging voltage. Usually 1-2 V above the terminal voltage of the battery (12V) should be OK. Stator burn out means that something is causing an excess current to be drawn from the coils, a partial short circuit is what springs to mind. The console cable or anything could be touching the frame which caused the excessive current draw. This would also explain why charging voltage is not increasing.

Anyway now that you don't have any problems, just carry on.

[Romins]

I checked the battery again today and it was 12.6. Charging voltage is 13.6V at 6000rpm. Hope these values are sufficient to keep the battery charging. As you suggested, I will wait and watch for a while.