You such a help.

Which would mean I go for all this right ?

(a) new stator assembly
(b) TCI kit
(c) ammeter
(d) UCD33 CV carb or any of alternatives mentioned in the thread above, suitably rejetted
(e) throttle cable for the C350
(f) engine kill switch
(g) throttle position switch assembly (and mounting bracket)
(h) primary and secondary ignition coils plus mounting L plates
(i) rubber flange/bellows/jubilee clips for mounting the carb
(j) cable ties

Or is there any other way.

And as for the last picture here it is, I believe it was connected to the same SAI pipe of the EFI Sytem. The pipe comes from directly behind the engine.



Should I connect this to the carburetor manifold, or connect the MAP sensor ? Or Connect it to the carburetor manifold and do a tap in for the MAP sensor. Can the MAP Sensor outlet be left open ? or can this outlet be left open.

The UCD33 comes with the TPS included in the box. The one from RE is expensive but it's worth the peace of mind I'm told.

In the interest of avoiding unnecessary spending buy in stages after you've bought the carb.

Stage 1: Bullet 500 Wiring Harness, Ignition Coil and Fitting, TCI, RR Unit, Stator Coil, Magnet Rotor, Ammeter.

Install all the above parts and see if you're facing any issues, and by issues I mean something like switch-set connector not matching, ignition key set connector not matching, some sensor etc not matching etc. Then make a note of all those and buy them as Stage 2.


That looks like a SAI unit indeed. The tiny line you've showed is what activates it by means of intake vacuum.

If you wish for the SAI to function then you could connect it to the SAI pipe on the manifold, or you could simply close the pipe with a ball bearing and it will disable the SAI and you can hook the MAP piggyback to the SAI port on the manifold.

Or you could get a 'T' pipe from Hero spares outlet as the SAI system in the Karizma etc uses a T junction pipe, you can use it to connect both the SAI and MAP sensor to the Manifold.



Part 22 is what you'd need.

But then that is going by the presumption that the MAP sensor still functions as a MAP sensor. The answer to which only IndiMotard would be able to give you, that is if they really do have an answer to give.

Regards,
A.P.

I will make this a Stage 2

Should the wiring harness be for a STD Bullet 500 or 500 UCE. The 500UCE seems to share the wiring harness with the 350UCE and Classic 350, and i could be totally wrong as well.


The UCD33 I got came with the TPS. I did get this power regulator and I think then the RR Unit can be checked off the list.



I did try to reach IndiMotard but seems he is not available. I will try the T junction thing.

Only UCE Parts would work for you.

The Classic 500 and Bullet 500 are identical with the exception of electricals and fueling, most of the parts of the Classic 350 and Bullet 350 are shared with the Bullet 500 as they're all carburetted, BUT the insistence to stick with Bullet 500 parts is due to the difference in timing. The pickup magnet on the magneto is differently placed which would cause your motorcycle to run like crap if you buy the wrong Magneto.

Do confirm if the TPS unit is the same as the one that comes on the B5.

Here's a picture of the one on the NS;



I don't have a better picture as the carb is installed in a friend's ZMA, but if I'm not wrong it was a 3 Pin unit.

As for the RR Unit, are you sure those are for the B5? I don't have part numbers but I'm pretty sure that Bullet connectors aren't favoured in this point of the timeline with a few rare exceptions still present.

Having said that a RR Unit is a Generic part, meaning you can can use anything you please as long as it's 3 Phase, but since you'd be buying new parts doesn't it make sense to spend another 800 bucks and get a new RR than splice wires on a new harness?

I'd not be surprised.

Regards,
A.P.

Thanks for sharing. I too have the first generation Classic 500 with ECU. I wanted to change to carburetor long time back but was hesitant.

Did you change through Mr. Chimay Dangre in Pune, who is an expert on Bullets?

What is the approximate total cost?

No, I did not seek help from any bullet expert. I have owned/carried out repairs on cars and bikes since childhood, hence this was a relative easy fix.

From what I can recall off the top of my head, it costed approximately Rs 4500 in total back in those days.

In retrospect, I would recommend everyone to replace the wiring harness too, junk the ECU etc.

I didnt know it will come out so either . But after reading through many forums and watching a bit, I should have gone for the full thing than this kit. It would have cost max 12-15. Here I got a 5k Carb at 9k MRP.

I will just air tight the MAP Sensor for now and then start on a complete conversion as my next stage than use the 'T'.


The TPS unit is the same as on the picture.


That RR was one from UK, a Boyer Bransden 3 Phase unit. It seem it has a capacitor as well inside so that even when the battery is completely dead the bike can be started with the kicker.

Is a stator coil change really needed ? I see most of the videos where the Magnet Rotor got replaced

What do C3, B3, C5 and B5 signify? Is it the Classic 350, Bullet 350, Classic 500 and Bullet 500?

Well at least you didn't go for the Hitchcock kit which would've cost you a kidney.

P.S. Mines a BS6 350 KS and I'd estimated conversion costs to be around 15k, here's a rough estimation of parts added to cart on thesparescompany.



As for Carb pricing, it costs around 3k when bought from Bajaj, the picture I shared earlier is of the UCD33 used in the Bajaj Pulsar NS200.

Good enough, basically the MAP sensor informs the ECU of vacuum drop and as a result it enriches AFR and Regards Ignition timing.

The TPS does the same by gauging throttle input.

We do not know whether the map sensor piggyback is there to trick the ECU to not throw a CEL or to actually retard ignition input. Hence why as a safety measure we're contemplating hooking it up to the intake just for the sake of it.

Again, unless a plug and play I'd still spend the 800/- bucks and get a OE RR Unit and save the expensive one for another day.

A capacitor you can add separately, one from Keltron costs around 50/- bucks, and can be installed without splicing stock wiring.

Hope this helps.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motor...capacitor.html (DIY: Eliminating Motorcycle Battery & Adding a Capacitor)

If thesparescompany is to be believed the Stator of the Bullet 500 UCE is different.



Again if a stator can be mounted inside the case then it's more or less generic as far as wiring goes but then again, for the same reason mentioned earlier if just get a new OE one in the interest of not splicing a brand new wiring harness.

Yes.

Regards,
A.P.

True that it would have been one hell of a bad decision.

I really wanted them at IndiMotard to explain their idea but seems I have no choice in this other than the old tested ways.

This is a very old project and started way back in 2017 . and with Covid, I couldn't even come back to India for 2 years which even delayed the whole thing.

This RR was actually purchased in 2018 along with a LiPO4 Battery Tender battery, and as time moved folks at home couldn't start the bike again due to the fuel in the Fi system getting a bit old. This led the battery to die as well, all for me to be blamed that I missed having someone disconnect the battery.

So next year hopefully will finish off this project, don't want to sell this as this is the first thing I brought as a vehicle.

Mod Note : Please do NOT use acronyms when referring to cars / motorcycles or their makers. You are ONLY permitted to use the full Make & Model name. This will make our content useful, searchable & easy-to-understand for experts & newbies alike.

Thanks for the support & understanding.

Another doubt

So I had removed the air filter and had it attached to a K&N conical filter. Already had a short bottle indori silencer.

I keep getting hissing from the air filter. Occasional bursts from the air filter and every time I have to pull the choke to start. Also some time a slight turn on throttle kills the engine.

Is it tuning issue ? Or is there something to do with the Jets ?

Hissing sound is normal.

A combination of both. Try adjusting the screws and if the issue still persists you need to upjet.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motor...rt-pg-2-a.html (K&N and carb re-jetting for bullet 500 & 350. EDIT: Chart on pg 2)

This should be of help.

First Rule of CV Carburetors: Do not run them without the Airbox and Cleaner in place.

Universal Rule of Carburetors in General: Do not play with the AFR Screw unless you're fine-tuning it for the very first time or after a complete Carburetor rebuild and reassembly, every other change you've made that's causing the motorcycle to act funny would need to be sorted by Rejetting for which you would need to properly read the spark plug and source alternate Jets, which is a PITA IMHO.

There's a video by veteran James Cameron in which he explains how to properly read a sparkplug, everything else you'd find on the internet is just a waste of time.





Hope that helps.
Regards,
A.P.

Any recommendation for a workshop with a really experienced mechanic in such stuff in Kerala, Trivandrum to Kottayam area.