[ArizonaJim]

pramodkumar

Go back and read the post I made about Heli-coil's. It is post #74.

In post #81 you mentioned that you thought the mechanic used the crude and almost always ineffective method of cramming some soft metal in the hole and hoped it would work. I knew at the time it would not.

Installing a Heli-coil requires rethreading the hole so that the oversize threads will mate correctly with the Heli-coil and provide new (and larger) engine case material to take the loads.

This, or using a similar screw thread insert like a Time-sert is the only way to end up with a reliable fix.

The use of a Heli-coil allows the reuse of the standard stud as the internal threads are the same as the original tapped hole.

Installing a Heli-coil can be done without removing the engine if there is enough room for the drill bit and the tap to follow the original hole. Often, all that is needed is an extension that allows the redrilling while the electric drill is held in an area where it doesn't interfere with the frame.
As the tap is shorter than the stud it can be driven with a hand held tap driver to thread the hole.

The only precaution is the internal areas of the crankcase must be protected to keep the metal chips from making their way inside. This can be done with a tight fitting rag.

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

pramodkumar

Go back and read the post I made about Heli-coil's. It is post #74.

In post #81 you mentioned that you thought the mechanic used the crude and almost always ineffective method of cramming some soft metal in the hole and hoped it would work. I knew at the time it would not.

Installing a Heli-coil requires rethreading the hole so that the oversize threads will mate correctly with the Heli-coil and provide new (and larger) engine case material to take the loads.

This, or using a similar screw thread insert like a Time-sert is the only way to end up with a reliable fix.

The use of a Heli-coil allows the reuse of the standard stud as the internal threads are the same as the original tapped hole.

Installing a Heli-coil can be done without removing the engine if there is enough room for the drill bit and the tap to follow the original hole. Often, all that is needed is an extension that allows the redrilling while the electric drill is held in an area where it doesn't interfere with the frame.
As the tap is shorter than the stud it can be driven with a hand held tap driver to thread the hole.

The only precaution is the internal areas of the crankcase must be protected to keep the metal chips from making their way inside. This can be done with a tight fitting rag.

I have to take the bike to a lathe, the mech is a moron and I don't want to take the bike to him again. I will take the bike to the lathe this Saturday.

Pramod

[kcj3b]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

I have to take the bike to a lathe, the mech is a moron and I don't want to take the bike to him again. I will take the bike to the lathe this Saturday.

Pramod

Whatever you do brother just dont spoil it.

This is a very sensitive work, you should be sure and the lather guy doubly sure what he is doing.

There wont be any second chance.

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by kcj3b

Whatever you do brother just dont spoil it.

This is a very sensitive work, you should be sure and the lather guy doubly sure what he is doing.

There wont be any second chance.

I know, but I am just pissed at what he did to the bike

last day he was walking his dog and he had the guts to ask me if the bike is running. It is a runner now, which in itself is great. these things are not show stoppers I can get them done after a while, this time it will be done right.

Pramod

[ArizonaJim]

Perhaps it's just a matter of word interpretation but when I hear the word "lathe" I envision
the metal cutting machine which is used to turn cylindrical metal parts into smaller cylindrical parts.

Based on this I can say there is no need for this. No parts need to be fabricated.
The only thing that needs to be purchased is a metric thread Heli-coil of the correct size and length and the correct special tap to thread the hole.

Perhaps you would like to follow this link and copy or print the data?
(The mechanic should already have a similar chart but it doesn't hurt to have the information).
http://www.noblefix.com/helicoil/Hel...ill-Chart.html

Note that Heli-coil's come in several different lengths for each thread size. These lengths are 1D, 1.5D, 2D, 2.5D and 3D where "D" is the internal thread diameter (or external stud thread diameter). The length needed will be slightly less than the depth of the current (stripped) hole in the engine crankcase because the insert length does not need to go completely to the bottom of the hole.

Also, assuming the existing hole is a "blind" hole that does not break thru the wall at the bottom of the threads, you do not want the newly created threaded hole to break thru the bottom either. If it does, it would serve as a leak path for the pressurized air/fuel mixture below the piston.

What you need is someone who is an excellent mechanic who has had successful experiences with preparing the hole and installing a Heli-coil.
If the mechanic gives you a blank look when you mention Heli-coil, find someone else.
If the mechanic looks like he knows about installing Heli-coils ask him how many he has installed and also ask to see the "Heli-coil" installation kit. He should have the Heli-coil tap and installation tool on hand as the kits that are usually sold have the proper tap, the installation tool and at least 6 (and often 12) Heli-coils in them.
http://www.noblefix.com/helicoil/Hel...etric-Kit.html

Speaking of that, there is a fairly good chance he already has an extra Heli-coil of the correct size and length on hand. If he does, the cost of the repair should be minimal.

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Perhaps it's just a matter of word interpretation but when I hear the word "lathe" I envision
the metal cutting machine which is used to turn cylindrical metal parts into smaller cylindrical parts.
.
.
.
Speaking of that, there is a fairly good chance he already has an extra Heli-coil of the correct size and length on hand. If he does, the cost of the repair should be minimal.

Thanks, for the detailed reply, this idiot mechanic of mine tried different studs of bigger diameter and screwed the threads completely. He was talking of putting a sleeve in the hole, that is when I thought of getting it done at a lathe. You can never go wrong there.

We might need to use standard threads at one end and oversize thread at other end. This time I want to do it right. I will first look for people who can help me with a helicoil and then I might go to the lathe if sleeve needs to be inserted. I know a guy who is a bit like me, but has 60+ years experience in restoring 4 stroke English bikes(no, not Enfield). He is bit like me cause he does it in his home converted into a workshop without any help

I am going to pop up there this weekend and talk to him to fix this for good. I will keep you guys posted.

Pramod

[kcj3b]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

Thanks, for the detailed reply, this idiot mechanic of mine tried different studs of bigger diameter and screwed the threads completely. He was talking of putting a sleeve in the hole, that is when I thought of getting it done at a lathe. You can never go wrong there.

We might need to use standard threads at one end and oversize thread at other end. This time I want to do it right. I will first look for people who can help me with a helicoil and then I might go to the lathe if sleeve needs to be inserted. I know a guy who is a bit like me, but has 60+ years experience in restoring 4 stroke English bikes(no, not Enfield). He is bit like me cause he does it in his home converted into a workshop without any help

I am going to pop up there this weekend and talk to him to fix this for good. I will keep you guys posted.

Pramod

Wow, what a guy, was wondering if he has 60+ years of Experience, what would be his age??
Are we talking about some Legend here?
Would love to know more, may a virtual tour of pictures when you go there buddy

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by kcj3b

Wow, what a guy, was wondering if he has 60+ years of Experience, what would be his age??
Are we talking about some Legend here?
Would love to know more, may a virtual tour of pictures when you go there buddy

He is a legend, very best kept secret, Hates 2 strokes and despises the RD 350. I need to first convince him to help me, then I have to reveal what I need help with. He is 75 +, he had people from UK sending him workshop manuals in the 60s. He is a retired banker, last time I met him he wanted me to pick up an AJS, that is where I differ from him a bit, stays in cochin for the weekdays with his wife, comes to Trivandrum during weekends to work on his bikes.

Pramod

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

Let me keep my eyes and ears open, it's only because you called me a magician

Pramod

Thanks.

Your buddy (4 stroke legend) might be a helpful lead!

Regards
Sutripta

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by Sutripta

Thanks.



Your buddy (4 stroke legend) might be a helpful lead!



Regards

Sutripta

Didn't go to the main guy but this is what I managed to track



I was able to recall seeing some replica tachometers on a Facebook group a while ago. Let me see if I can find anymore details

Pramod

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

Attachment 1354730

Didn't go to the main guy but this is what I managed to track

Attachment 1354732

I was able to recall seeing some replica tachometers on a Facebook group a while ago. Let me see if I can find anymore details

Pramod

Thanks once again. Sending a PM.

Regards
Sutripta

[pramodkumar]

Today the bike saw the 100km/h mark after a long time, was misfiring a lot, but was fun. The main stand was little funky, got it fixed. Also got the side stand fixed today

Pramod

[kcj3b]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

Today the bike saw the 100km/h mark after a long time, was misfiring a lot, but was fun. The main stand was little funky, got it fixed. Also got the side stand fixed today

Pramod

I suggest if the Mukuni Carbs are not doing good, switch to the Indian pacco which do a decent job for RD with very low chance of overflows etc.

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by kcj3b

I suggest if the Mukuni Carbs are not doing good, switch to the Indian pacco which do a decent job for RD with very low chance of overflows etc.

The misfire was timing and leaky head related, pacco carbs were not a hit as far as I know, never used them so would not comment. Took the bike to a mech suggested by Ram Nair from tbhp. The initial impression was like when I saw the mechs place and absolutely no bikes. Then I was in double mind should I leave the bike with him, he fixed the timing and fixed the leaky head. She runs better than before. He also did charge peanuts for the whole job, ram rightly said, he is a good mech minus the drama. Highly recommended

Pramod

[kcj3b]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

The misfire was timing and leaky head related, pacco carbs were not a hit as far as I know, never used them so would not comment. Took the bike to a mech suggested by Ram Nair from tbhp. The initial impression was like when I saw the mechs place and absolutely no bikes. Then I was in double mind should I leave the bike with him, he fixed the timing and fixed the leaky head. She runs better than before. He also did charge peanuts for the whole job, ram rightly said, he is a good mech minus the drama. Highly recommended

Pramod

That's some good news.
We need to remember that today's bikes have cdi kits and efi kits and the only service needed is bearings, bushes and cables which anybody can do with. Old mechs were really masters as u were required to know about timing ,points , carburetion and what not.
Today these young Mech have no idea about the craftsmanship but will have the hype of being a hot shot. Take an RD350 or an old Enfield to them and they will leave no stone unturned in ridiculing it and calling it a junk with comparison to some plastic bike he might have the so called mastery in.
Its good that your issue is sorted out.
Talking abt completing your Run In, can you just not keep the engine running in neutral and blow air on it using a pedestal fan just to reproduce the air cooling effect?