Team-BHP - The KTM Duke 390 Ownership Experience Thread

Some of us changed it only at 1000. The next service is at 5K where i may change it slightly ahead of schedule. Its individual choice to change between 0-1000 and if you want to the service guys will be more than happy to charge you.

I didnt even take the left over oil back and told him to use it next time for probably a top up :)

I am not hearing the thud and may be i am not too worried and not bothering to look at it and only hearing the whine from the exhaust.

I will also check if i am getting those thud's

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@Nasirkaka: I changed the oil at around 250-300 km at the Kasturbha Road service centre. Cost me about 1800 for basically the Motul oil. Cheaper if you went for mineral oil.

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Thanks for the reply.
I had intended to change the oil as per Manuel during the first service at 1000kms, but those pictures with all the metal shavings stuck to the oil strainer have put a doubt in my mind. Might as well go ahead and change it at 200kms for peace of mind, as i dont think it will have any negative impact whatsoever, except a lighter wallet. (i have heard theories that some of the finer metal particles do aid in better bedding of internals by acting as abrasive catalysts, not sure if that implies to a modern engine with finer manufacturing tolerances.)
Today, being holiday, will check tomorrow at indiranagar service station, and get the oil changed, and also chain checked for excessive play/slapping, which could be leading the prominent sound on over broken roads.

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Originally Posted by junaid12345678 (Post 3282469)

Yesterday, when returning from the RTO after number reservation for my D390, saw a duke 390 and two Ninjas(IIRC) plying towards Korani by the Attingal-Korani road. All of them were on full riding gear and were doing good speeds with acceleration bursts. Any one from this thread? I couldn't catch up as I was on my CBZ xtreme. stupid:

How much you paid for the special number and what kind of number ? What is the procedure now ?

Found this article online which says that the throttle action of the D390 is 90 degrees as compared to that of Duke 690 which is 60 degrees. It will be interesting to see how the bike will respond to a 60 degree action throttle.

Quote from the article i found

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"Another reason why it’s such an involving ride is the amount of throttle input required for a given amount of grunt. It’s got quite a long throttle action, and one of KTM’s techs confirmed the twist-grip has 90 degrees of movement, compared to a little over 60 for the 690 Duke. This meant I had to effectively grab a second handful of throttle on some occasions to properly nail it to the stop, not that this will be of any major concern to novice riders – in fact it’s simply another aspect to the 390 Duke’s easy, non-threatening and manageable nature."

http://www.bikesales.com.au/reviews/...390-duke-36110

What about the throttle action of D200. Can anyone shed light on this.

Today KTM manager informed me that Bajaj has a tie-up with Motul to provide 10W50 FS engine oils to their service centers. So obviously, we wont be able to source it outside. And guys who have done their first service, can we carry our own oil for the service? Is there any warranty issue or the service center makes us sign some disclaimer?

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Originally Posted by lark63 (Post 3284795)

How much you paid for the special number and what kind of number ? What is the procedure now ?

I paid 3000 for the number 4884. The procedure is not that simple now.
Documents you need:

1)Application form for no reservation
2)True copy of temp reg certificate
3)Attested copy of id proof
4)E-payment receipt of road tax (In case of private vehicles)
5)E-payment receipt of booking amount.

Earlier, you need documents 1,2,3 only. Now you have to pay road tax too prior to booking. Though rules may vary from state to state.

After filling up, I was trying to close the fuel lid.
The SA had told me at the time of delivery to not to simply press the lid down to close it since it is likely to wear away the plastic edge inside. He was insisting that to lock the tank, the key has to be turned right and simultaneously lid has to be pressed down before releasing the key. I was trying to do all this with one hand and guess what, the key got bent sideways. It was so soft ! I re inserted the key in to lock and pushed it the other way to straighten it.
Guys. Be careful while handling the key. It is very soft and very malleable.

Today, after a short ride noticed the rear brake rotor was too hot to touch. In fact I just used the front brake to stop the bike. The rear brake pads are in contact with the rotor and its heating it up. I am a bit afraid as I would end up with glazed pads/warped rotors.
Any one here observed the same?

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Originally Posted by VW2010 (Post 3286165)

When you push the bike do you feel any resistance or if you try to rotate the wheel.

Check the brake play and see if its too tight.

I am learning to adjust chain and have been playing quite a while with brakes and gear play adjustments .

I do feel a bit of resistance, but its way too small to bother about. I can't check the rotation as I don't have a paddock stand. I will check the brake lever play in detail today. Right now I checked the play and its a bit tight.
BTW, learn well and teach us:)

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Originally Posted by VW2010 (Post 3286165)

When you push the bike do you feel any resistance or if you try to rotate the wheel.

Bikes with disk brakes will always have resistance when you try rolling it freely. Reason being that the brake pads will be slightly touching the rotor at all times.

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Originally Posted by man_of_steel (Post 3286288)

Bikes with disk brakes will always have resistance when you try rolling it freely. Reason being that the brake pads will be slightly touching the rotor at all times.

I do not think that the pads always touch the disk.There will be no resistance if you hold the handle straight. If the handle is turned, the front brakes get applied mildly thus the resistance. This is my observation.

I have never experienced any resistance in any of the bikes I owned when I rotate the wheel. The wheel rotates freely and continue to rotate for a long time. Even a slight rubbing is acceptable, but here the rotor got too hot for a short ride of just 10km.Also the rear brake is much weaker than the drum brakes of my cbz xtreme. I have observed the issue now after clocking 800 kms. May be the rotor is already gone by now:Frustrati. I will adjust the rear brake pedal play and check.

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Originally Posted by lark63 (Post 3286335)

By resistance I mean only slight resistance noticeable only when you try to rotate the wheels freely and slowly. This small amount of resistance will try to reduce the speed of 'free' rotation as compared to drum brakes which allows the wheel to rotate freely for a long time. This slight rubbing of the pads will not make any impact when the vehicle is moving under the engine's acceleration or while you pushing it, its virtually non existent when on move.

I put forward this point because I am not aware of any springs to disengage the brake pads inside the calipers when the brake lever is released. Ever wondered why a small particle of sand or dust particle that gets into the brake pad during monsoons makes a squeaking noise while running?

BTW. This is as per my understanding of the disc brake mechanism. Please do correct me if I am wrong.