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-   -   The KTM Duke 390 Ownership Experience Thread (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorbikes/138082-ktm-duke-390-ownership-experience-thread-70.html)

I would not recommend this, especially on a new engine. Its always best to avoid lugging the engine right? Also, the extra clutch slipping might make the already hot-headed 390 more hotter. You can always lightly drag the rear brake to compensate for that jerky 1st gear, in which case neither the engine nor clutch plates will be loaded.

I disagree with this. Slipping the clutch REDUCES load on the engine, while using the brake increases the load on the engine.

Lugging of the engine is partly a function of how loaded the engine is; the engine isn't generating enough power at a low RPM to smoothly accellerate the load applied and hence causes excessive vibrations.

Similarly, the RPM at which a bike lugs is dependant on the weight it has to pull. A 50 kilo rider may be lugging the engine at, say, 1700 RPM while a 150 kilo rider would cause the same engine to lug at 2000 RPM.

Slipping the clutch essentially reduces the load the engine has to pull and prevents lugging. That's why it also smoothens out low rpm niggles of the 390 and C5 (atleast mine used to have low rpm hicupps). Applying the brakes does the opposite and adds load to the engine and promotes lugging.

As a counter argument to my own above, however, is that the low rpm jerkiness may not be caused by lugging at all, but by spotty fuel injection or a loose chain.

@greasemonk. Sorry for the confusion caused here. You are right in the fact that applying rear brake increases the engine load. But What I suggested was to 'lightly' apply the rear brake when you sense that giving the throttle will result in a jerk. As soon as the bike starts rolling freely under the throttle slowly release the rear brake. By application of rear brake I meant just a feather touch just to iron out that jerk.

And by lugging I meant riding on a higher gear when there is a lower gear available for crawling speeds. It may also be my own riding style speaking here. I ride such that I keep my clutch usage to the minimum even in traffic.

And you are right. This jerkiness is due to the low RPM fueling I guess.

The Indiranagar KTM guys finally relented and gave me the bike today. But with a bone dry chain with no lube at all, which I unfortunately checked after I got back home. Unbelievable drop in customer focus and efficiency from the time I took the D200 from them.

Anyways, some pics of the new dude in the garage, ready with a crown already, to challenge the current ruling king :D

I hope the windscreen is functional. The green and the orange...Nice to have them in the garage.

With the crown i am reminded of the below :) Please do share your feedback on the crown.

Its absolulutely easy to shift into neutral just like every other bike with one down rest up gearbox. You can only shift to neutral from second gear. Just shift into second and press down 'lightly' once. The bike will shift to neutral in the first effort itself. People used to riding 1 down rest up gearbox knows this well :)

The bikes speed don't have any role in engine run-in. All that matters is engine RPM.

Guys, I am going to change the oil at 500kms and looking to put the same oil that came with the bike from the factory for the next 500 kms. Is it the Bajaj Dtsi 20w50 oil that comes with the bike?

Yesterday while cruising down the highway at 75 kmph, managed to extract 37 kmpl on the console.

What is that plastic wrap around your rear tyre? Did you put any kind clear protection. If so can you share details.

Did you meant that plastic cover over the saree guard? I think it is complimentary wrap provided by Bajaj/KTM to protect the saree guard from dirt and muckstupid: and wives don't want their saree to be spoiled :D

@niranjanrvce: Where did you source the windscreen? Is it useful at all?

How much did you pay for it?

Congratulations niranjan! Did you get it to college yesterday by any chance? Cause I thought I saw a 390. Do let us know how effective the windshield is. Cause naked bikes are a pain above 100 without decent riding gear(compared to fully faired bikes).
OT: Your ninja with the M4s sounds like a beast! :D

Cheers!

Regarding the ABS and KTM390... Wanted to add my thoughts and the potential of rear ABS at least per my usage and understanding.

The KTM ABS is not a CBS or a distributed system which means the ABS works independently and to get the rear brakes ABS activated i am not if we can create that kind of emergency braking at the rear with the foot force.

I tried quite a few times and the force i can exert at the front is far higher.

Physically the toe and heel positioning lets me only gradually appy and not as a sudden motion with great force. May be i am used to the bulls but even in bulls my front disc was super effective i hardly sometimes used the rear unless emergency. I am so used to using the front brakes that the 390 is a blessing. THe front sticks and the ABS does work.

Using just the rear on the 390 is sure shot futile for the bike does not stop and there is no break distribution. By simple science the front wheel slowing down or stopping is far more critical than the rear wheel stopping. In fact in braking situations the rear helps a lot to slow down but its the front that helps to stop.

I tested quite hard yesterday at 20-30kmph hitting the brakes really hard. The Bike for the better news stops superbly. But a combination of front and rear gives the maximum effect.

The rear plays definitely a supportive role as expected but the front is spot on.

Secondly we are so used to gradual braking that we hardly put the ABS into use. Even in emergency situation we hit the clutch harder before we gradually put pressure on the brakes.

Does the bike skid when using rear only? No. It just takes a lot longer to come to a stop.

Summary:- Use both brakes atleast to get the maximum of these wonderful brakes. And learn to apply sudden brakes. You have to practice and get some confidence going and not expect the bike to do wonders without that practice.

I am not kidding, but with the stronger brakes, trying out the brakes in a free interior road at different speed will only give you the overall "What can i expect and what should i do" feeling for using the brakes.

Found this on the windscreen that @niranjanrvce has. (At least it looks the same!)

http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...-ktm-duke.html

Haha, yes the looks aren't exactly proportional but for me it's function over form.
I used to struggle on open highways post 100kmph when I owned the D200. The windblast strains your neck and was the primary reason I almost always picked the Ninja over the Duke for highway runs. Faced the same issue when I rode BHPian Sriram's Duke 390 on the Kolar highway. Hence the decision to buy the screen first up.
I haven't tested the windscreen fully yet - have a day long ride with some buddies tomorrow and I will know for sure then.

It's an MRA windscreen that you can buy off any international riding gear site. Cost me 8k. I will pen down a review once I use it long enough.
Let me know if you can't find it and I will PM some links across.

:) You have seen my brother bring the Ninja to college I guess, I passed out a long time ago! I haven't let him take the Duke390 to college yet but he will next week, I'm sure.

Well said! Once you get used to it, the brakes are just awesome though.
If I may add, the same holds good for the power delivery. The D390 builds up speed very quickly with no drama and you don't realize until you look at the speedo. When I took my first lot CBR250R for service, there were more crashed bikes than regular service ones just because people wrung the throttle like they always did on smaller bikes.

Am eagerly waiting for the "adventure" version, do you have anymore inputs on it? pillion comfort will be an important factor when deciding on my next bike :)