[ridealongkirtan]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Idle RPM 1550 -1650

So that means it keeps fluctuating between this range right? I am used to idle being stable on most bikes so it was a first for me. Will check if the fan is functioning properly. Just waiting for my gixxer sf 250 to be sold.

[ebonho]

I think there is some confusion around the word "running" ...

If the fan comes on when the bike engine is running, but bike is stationary, it (the fan) does not go off. Till you switch off the ignition. Then the fan will still keep running under power (not coasting after switch off) for a few seconds. And then go off. This is typically seen after you've come to standstill after your ride, in your parking space.

But if you back out, take a U turn, and start riding again, with the engine and fan still running, the moment your bike is on the move the fan will quickly go off.

The above is normal. As is the start up warm up idle hunting (up and down till it stabilizes at around 1600+) that you describe.

Cheers, Doc

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by ridealongkirtan

So that means it keeps fluctuating between this range right? I am used to idle being stable on most bikes so it was a first for me. Will check if the fan is functioning properly. Just waiting for my gixxer sf 250 to be sold.

RPMs should mostly stay constant once warmed up.. in the warming phase though it shall vary ever so slightly depending on the ambient and engine temp. Once the bike is fully warmed up RPM should always remain constant even on our KTMs.

Get your throttle body, injector and idle

Cheers!
VJ

[Dhruv Shetty]

Originally Posted by ridealongkirtan

So that means it keeps fluctuating between this range right? I am used to idle being stable on most bikes so it was a first for me. Will check if the fan is functioning properly. Just waiting for my gixxer sf 250 to be sold.

The R.P.M should be constant at 1800, if it's fluctuating to much or staying above 2000, there could be a problem in the throttle body or throttle position sensor. The same thing happened in my bike, it starts at a high R.P.M like 2000 and stays there, once I disconnected and reconnected the the throttle cable from the throttle body, it fixed it temporarily, but it was back the next day. Later it was fluctuating so badly it would barely stay on and the bike would die, I had give some beans to keep it on and it would stabalize, this was before I moved abroad and left the bike at Zenngine, they diagnosed it to the throttle body.

Cheers,
Dhruv Shetty.

[ridealongkirtan]

Originally Posted by Dhruv Shetty

I had give some beans to keep it on and it would stabalize, this was before I moved abroad and left the bike at Zenngine, they diagnosed it to the throttle body.

Do you have a gen 1 390? Because I was talking about gen 2 duke here which has ride by wire. Anyways thank you for your input will check the service manual too and get the right details.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by ridealongkirtan

Do you have a gen 1 390? Because I was talking about gen 2 duke here which has ride by wire. Anyways thank you for your input will check the service manual too and get the right details.

I was also talking about Gen 1 390. Cable throttle.

Cheers, Doc

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by ridealongkirtan

Hi Everyone. After lots of thought I am finally going for a Duke 390 gen 2, mostly 2017-18 model. I went to check a 2018 model which was near my place. 2nd owner 20k+ odd kilometres run and all service history I could ask for.

The owner owns a garage and is well versed with bikes and has maintained his bike beautifully, owns other high end bikes like Triumph Tiger and a old Beautiful RD350. I checked everything thoroughly and everything was good. No signs of engine rebuild, no major damages, no signs of bad maintenance.

My only grim was the bike had an unstable RPM. I rode it and came back, parked the bike and kept it on. The owner told me that if you want to make sure the bike is good or not check if the radiator fan stops once the bike is standing and idle. The joke was it never went off, I checked for coolant level and oil level it was absolutely fine and fresh.

The RPM would go up and down when it was warming up like it wasn't stable at 2000RPM. I don't know if this is common on KTM as I have only ridden Japanese brand bikes which are usually stable. In idle too the RPM was anywhere from 1500 to 1700, couldn't make out the exact number. The bike rode beautifully tho. Gen 2 duke 390 owners please help.

Disconnect the battery for a while, connect it back and do the initialisation run. Put the bike on a paddock stand, engine must be dead cold before starting the bike.

[Vignesh_N/A]

Somehow the leaks never stop.

It has crossed 60000 kms now



How serious is the leak from head bolts?

Is it just a case of bolt not torqued properly ?

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

Disconnect the battery for a while, connect it back and do the initialisation run. Put the bike on a paddock stand, engine must be dead cold before starting the bike.

Mentioned the same here ... did it for 5 minutes though. Will do it for 10 some time again.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motor...ml#post5672332 (The KTM Duke 390 Ownership Experience Thread)

Cheers, Doc

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by Vignesh_N/A

Somehow the leaks never stop.

It has crossed 60000 kms now
How serious is the leak from head bolts?

Is it just a case of bolt not torqued properly ?

Combination of poor and over torqued bolts can cause oil leaks especially where O-Rings are present. O-Rings warp and squeeze after certain torque limit (depending on the real estate being worked upon etc) in such cases oil either leaks or weeps.

Secondly, rubber hardens over time eventually leading to poor sealing which again causes weep/leak. What causes the hardening? Environmental factors, engine heat primarily, the repeated hot and cold cycle over prolonged period. In your case, it's busted O-Rings coupled with poor/excessive torque that's causing repeated failures. The bike deserves some TLC though.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

[shadowrider]

Originally Posted by Vignesh_N/A

It has crossed 60000 kms now

Attachment 2614273

There's a washer beneath that bolt, replace it and you will be good. I faced a similar issue and replacing the washers solved it. Make sure that the SVC doesn't over-torque it. Also, try if you can, to get your fingers to wipe the RHS front portion of the valve cover, behind the radiator. You might find oil weeping there also. Wipe it off after changing the washers or you will always have a burning oil smell and wonder where it comes from.

[Vignesh_N/A]

Thanks for your input

I am sort of confused who to approach at this point. Last service was handled by authorized service centre. I burnt my finger because of their lackluster approach. Last time the leaks were from LH cover gasket. Now it has popped at new places.

All other services were handled by a private garage but again, they are just about better than ASC.

[ridewthedevil]

I own a Gen 1 Duke 390 from 2016 (And a gen 3, but that's for a different thread).

I'd like to know if anyone has tried fitting the wheels, brakes and/or suspension from the gen 3 Duke 390. What's your feedback on the same?

[Vignesh_N/A]

Originally Posted by ridewthedevil

I'd like to know if anyone has tried fitting the wheels, brakes and/or suspension from the gen 3 Duke 390. What's your feedback on the same?

To adapt the wheels and brakes for the front, the forks also needs to be changed. I doubt if anyone would spend 25K.

The rear wheel and suspension will add another 13K.

[Motolysis]

Originally Posted by ridewthedevil

I own a Gen 1 Duke 390 from 2016 (And a gen 3, but that's for a different thread).

I'd like to know if anyone has tried fitting the wheels, brakes and/or suspension from the gen 3 Duke 390. What's your feedback on the same?

Originally Posted by Vignesh_N/A

To adapt the wheels and brakes for the front, the forks also needs to be changed. I doubt if anyone would spend 25K.

The rear wheel and suspension will add another 13K.

So I am in the process of a complete rebuild of my gen 1 Duke 390. And a part of the process is upgrades, which includes both the wheels and adjustable front suspension from the gen 3 Duke 390.

I have all the needed parts on order, out of which only the front wheel remains to be delivered and till now the bill is around 47k. It also includes the front and rear rotors and the new master cylinder. I will attach a copy of the invoice along with part numbers and pictures if you want. But it would take some time as I will only be able to do it the next time I go work on the bike since its not parked at my residence.

No matter what though, unless you have some sentimental value or some emotional justification behind this decision, I doubt if a lot of people would see any logic in spending around half a lakh on these upgrades. I see logic in it. But my justification might not have much mileage with someone else's.