[pandu1564]

Suspension Upgrade!!

Hi Team-BHPians,

Just installed the adjustable rear suspension from a 390 Adventure on my 2014 390 Duke. It was a perfect fit for me since I wanted to increase the saddle height.

Initial impressions after a 25 km ride are very positive. The damping is excellent, and it absorbs bumps really well. The slightly reduced rake angle makes the bike feel a tad more agile, but it also seems to shift the weight distribution slightly more towards the front.

On another note, I wanted to share a long-term update on the NS200 front disc I installed. While the initial motivation was purely aesthetic, I'm very impressed with the performance. I feel a noticeable difference in lever feedback when ABS is deactivated.

Thanks!

[shadowrider]

Originally Posted by pandu1564

On another note, I wanted to share a long-term update on the NS200 front disc I installed.
Thanks!

Lately, I saw a lot of Gen 2 Duke 390 with Mojo 300's front disc installed. Not sure if it is a direct fit or would need some changes.

For the valve clearance job, does the SVC need to drop the engine, or not? Lately, the sound from the valve cover has been a bit loud. At first start, the engine noise is very low, but once the bike gets to the operating temperature the the noise increases, it's sounds like something is jingling inside, (something like shaking a lot of coins in our hand) that's the best I can explain. It is definitely not the timing chain sound or tensioner sound.

Also, how much will the valve clearance job cost? The bike is nearing 20k km (a preowned bike) and the last time I asked at the SVC they told me they would only check valve clearance once the signature sound has arrived. The sound has been there for the past few 100kms, but the current SVC says it's the normal sound, but it doesn't sound normal to me.

Opting to go with a different SVC this time that will actually adhere to the manual to check the clearance every 10k km.

[Dhruv Shetty]

Originally Posted by shadowrider

Lately, I saw a lot of Gen 2 Duke 390 with Mojo 300's front disc has been there for the past few 100kms, but the current SVC says it's the normal sound, but it doesn't sound normal to me.

Opting to go with a different SVC this time that will actually adhere to the manual to check the clearance every 10k km.

The valve clearance job can be done with the engine in place, a valve clearance job cost about 4k. The SVC guys are lazy and are waiting for the engine to go bad so they get to perform an engine rebuild , so best is to find a good FNG.

Valve clearance needs to be done every 10 to 15k.

Cheers,
Dhruv Shetty.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Dhruv Shetty

The valve clearance job can be done with the engine in place, a valve clearance job cost about 4k. The SVC guys are lazy and are waiting for the engine to go bad so they get to perform an engine rebuild , so best is to find a good FNG.

Valve clearance needs to be done every 10 to 15k.

Cheers,
Dhruv Shetty.

Disagree. Frankly I think its the other way around. The SVC team does not get anything out of rebuilding your engine. The good FNG does. Whether an engine rebuild is needed or not.

Most SVC hands are so experienced that their ears will tell them (and you) immediately when your valve clearances are out of tolerance. Having heard thousands of bikes over a decade, its like a doctor with a stethoscope. He does not need to open your chest to know what's wrong with your heart.

My bike is nearing 20,000 km now and the valves are just fine. I'm not getting my engine, any engine, opened unless there is a need. And definitely not to a schedule.

Cheers, Doc

[shadowrider]

Originally Posted by Dhruv Shetty

The valve clearance job can be done with the engine in place, a valve clearance job cost about 4k.

I'm guessing this is the cost at your FNG. I specifically asked for the labor charges at SVC

Originally Posted by ebonho

Most SVC hands are so experienced that their ears will tell them (and you) immediately when your valve clearances are out of tolerance. Having heard thousands of bikes over a decade, its like a doctor with a stethoscope.


Cheers, Doc

Thinking of this, maybe the SVC was right Doc. Maybe I'm overstressing and it's the normal sound for the Gen 1s. The Gen1 seems to have a bit louder engine noise in my experience. Anyway at the next service, which will take a couple of months more, I'll ask them if the engine noise is normal or not and update here. The plan to change the SVC remains the same for a few other reasons too.

[r_nairtvm]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Most SVC hands are so experienced that their ears will tell them (and you) immediately when your valve clearances are out of tolerance. Having heard thousands of bikes over a decade, its like a doctor with a stethoscope. He does not need to open your chest to know what's wrong with your heart.

My bike is nearing 20,000 km now and the valves are just fine. I'm not getting my engine, any engine, opened unless there is a need. And definitely not to a schedule.

Agree 100% - The instructions to check every "fixed KM" is a guide for one to be cautious and listen or watchout - its not mandatory in my view

Most modern bikes have good tolerances and with reasonable care and timely oil changes etc, it can go much beyond the limits in book. My twin cylinder bike is over 40K KM on clock without any need for valve adjustment.

The adage in olden days used to be "don't touch an engine unless it is broken down"

Best Regards & Ride Safe

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by shadowrider

Also, how much will the valve clearance job cost? The bike is nearing 20k km (a preowned bike) and the last time I asked at the SVC they told me they would only check valve clearance once the signature sound has arrived. The sound has been there for the past few 100kms, but the current SVC says it's the normal sound, but it doesn't sound normal to me.

Parts alone, 4 new shims will be 4 x 47rs = 188rs, add a new valve cover gasket for 400rs.

The problem with KTM is no one has the right shims in stock with them to do the valve clearance job. I bought oversized shims then grinded down to the right size. It is a very labour intensive process that most cant get right and hence are hesitant to do it.

I have done valve clearancing myself, my experience is on my ownership thread.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by r_nairtvm

The adage in olden days used to be "don't touch an engine unless it is broken down"

Best Regards & Ride Safe

Amen. Tathastu. Ovaryu. In the 3 languages I can speak. A sealed engine is a good engine. Once opened, it will never be the same again. Maybe almost as good. But never as good. I'm talking as a rider who has had engines opened. Many of them. And knows his bikes intimately.

Originally Posted by shadowrider

Thinking of this, maybe the SVC was right Doc. Maybe I'm overstressing and it's the normal sound for the Gen 1s. The Gen1 seems to have a bit louder engine noise in my experience. Anyway at the next service, which will take a couple of months more, I'll ask them if the engine noise is normal or not and update here. The plan to change the SVC remains the same for a few other reasons too.

Oh yes, Gen 1s are loud and clattery. If you think these are loud and gruff, then you haven't heard the Euro spec pre production pieces we were given to test in 2013. Kadak! That's the word I love in Bullets. That's the word I love in KTMs. I guess the closest in English would be angry, not crisp. As I said, the exhaust note does change a bit with the carbon I guess. But the engine has always sounded like this. And the SVC guys have heard thousands of these, over years and kilometres and various stages of ill health to failure. So I do go quite a lot per their experience. And once you live with a bike, you yourself immediately know when something breaks or changes or goes bad or starts going wrong. The very first teltale sign of it in fact. After that, its the experience of the rider that decides what he does about it.

Cheers, Doc

[Weathered]

Originally Posted by pandu1564

Just installed the adjustable rear suspension from a 390 Adventure on my 2014 390 Duke. It was a perfect fit for me since I wanted to increase the saddle height.

Are you able to adjust the setting after the installation? Please post pics if possible. Thanks!

[TheHelix0202]

I got gapped by a loud (tastefully so, which is downright weird) 1st-gen 390 with a bassy aftermarket exhaust today. Sounded nice, didn’t have the typical 2-stroke-‘rick sound. Couldn’t catch up on time to enquire.

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by shadowrider

Lately, I saw a lot of Gen 2 Duke 390 with Mojo 300's front disc installed. Not sure if it is a direct fit or would need some changes.

For the valve clearance job, does the SVC need to drop the engine, or not? Lately, the sound from the valve cover has been a bit loud. At first start, the engine noise is very low, but once the bike gets to the operating temperature the the noise increases, it's sounds like something is jingling inside, (something like shaking a lot of coins in our hand) that's the best I can explain. It is definitely not the timing chain sound or tensioner sound.

Also, how much will the valve clearance job cost? The bike is nearing 20k km (a preowned bike) and the last time I asked at the SVC they told me they would only check valve clearance once the signature sound has arrived. The sound has been there for the past few 100kms, but the current SVC says it's the normal sound, but it doesn't sound normal to me.

Opting to go with a different SVC this time that will actually adhere to the manual to check the clearance every 10k km.

Valve clatters make themselves more persistent right from cold start, which methodically increases to a gradual high pitched tickle. Would recommend you to start off by inspecting valve clearance then "REPLACE" the timing chain tensioner. Secondly replace your timing chain if the vehicle has crossed more than 20k kms. Observe if it it makes a difference, if it does leave it at that. Do note, timing chain wear and tensioner wear will result in similar noises resulting in dissuasion.

If it doesn't then yes, for a clean job of doing valve clearance, it is recommended to get the engine down, yet depending on the dexterity and experience of the hand in operation things can be squared off well.

Key points.
1. Inspect valve clearance first.
2. Replace Cam Chain Tensioner "irrespective of previous history"
3. Replace timing chain "mandatory"
4. Keep All 3 in mind.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

[ebonho]

Was patching the tube of my road bike, and it hit me that the MID case of the Duke was also some sort of rubber, and vulcanizing would (should) work on it as well, with the correct puncture repair patch cut to shape and size.

Picked out one of the large patches, and marked out a stencil on a piece if paper using a pencil to shade over it, held against the SET button of the MID. Cut the stencil and positioned it such that I get the maximum coverage with the central black part of the patch, with bits of the orange rim paying homage to the KTM heritage color!

Scuffed up the rubber of the SET button area with a sand paper piece, applied the puncture repair vulcanizing glue, waited for a few minutes fir it to tack over, and then carefully positioned the patch over it and pressed it firmly in place, making sure the edges were secure all through.

Cheers, Doc

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by ebonho

[]

Was patching the tube of my road bike, and it hit me that the MID case of the Duke was also some sort of rubber, and vulcanizing would (should) work on it as well, with the correct puncture repair patch cut to shape and size.

vulcanizing glue, waited for a few minutes fir it to tack over, and then carefully positioned the patch over it and pressed it firmly in place, making sure the edges were secure all through.

Cheers, Doc

The rubber glue will eventually harden and peel like a soap wrapper. Why? Have used it earlier on my yesteryear Pulsar's console and though it held for a while, weather does play a factor and eventually it's a start over. A new case is peanuts and holds for a long time to come

https://sparify.co/products/ktm-duke...YaAhGyEALw_wcB

Good luck!

Cheers!
VJ

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

The rubber glue will eventually harden and peel like a soap wrapper. Why? Have used it earlier on my yesteryear Pulsar's console and though it held for a while, weather does play a factor and eventually it's a start over. A new case is peanuts and holds for a long time to come

Cheers!
VJ

I already have two new cases, ordered from @SunnyBoi 's link, still not opened. Money is not the issue here. The SET button cracked through a couple of days ago, and I don't want it leaving the insides exposed till I get around to going to the workshop and getting the case changed. This is a vulcanizing patch and glue. This is not ordinary rubber glue like Fevibond, etc. The orange material backing on the patch chemically reacts with the glue and the rubber and welds itself to the underlying rubber and becomes part of it. Which means there is no two surfaces with a distinct interface with glue in between anymore, that can or will harden and peel off. If you see a vulcanized patch, on an inner tube, once its cured, it merges with the rubber and looks like a bump on the surface. You cannot peel it off. If you try, you will hole through the entire thickness of the tube itself. It is permanent for the life of the tube. Similar to heat vulcanized patches.

Cheers, Doc

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by ebonho

I already have two new cases, ordered from @SunnyBoi 's link, still not opened. Money is not the issue here. The SET button cracked through a couple of days ago, and I don't want it leaving the insides exposed till I get around to going to the workshop and getting the case changed. This is a vulcanizing patch and glue. This is not ordinary rubber glue like Fevibond, etc. The orange material backing on the patch chemically reacts with the glue and the rubber and welds itself to the underlying rubber and becomes part of it. Which means there is no two surfaces with a distinct interface with glue in between anymore, that can or will harden and peel off. If you see a vulcanized patch, on an inner tube, once its cured, it merges with the rubber and looks like a bump on the surface. You cannot peel it off. If you try, you will hole through the entire thickness of the tube itself. It is permanent for the life of the tube. Similar to heat vulcanized patches.

Cheers, Doc

I hope the rest of the case holds up because when they go, they really crumble into pieces Some of the soft plastics used on our KTMs have similar tendencies, like the chain slider which I changed twice and the speedo cover once. Speedo cover is crucial as it traps water inside and messes up the speedo unit real quick.