Team-BHP - The KTM Duke 390 Ownership Experience Thread

Post lunch update -

Drivetrain done.

New type rear sprocket self locking nuts (instead of the old plates whose ends are bent up). With blue loctite.

Cush rubbers changed. Individual transparent pieces instead of the old style one piece linked black one.

Rear sprocket bearing replaced.

Wheel bearings fine. Rear brake pads fine.

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Motul 7100 fully synthetic poured in. New oil filter and O ring.

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Left side drain bolt / O ring assy. replaced.

Belly pan and left gear linkage/side stand assembly cleaned and refitted.

Cone set replacement work commences.

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Front brake pads have still a lot (half+) of life left.

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Cheers, Doc

I'd previously said that I changed the rear suspension to the Zedling one, and I was so impressed that I've ordered for front springs. The forks have been sent to Zedling's factory to reassemble them. In the meantime, I'm planning to procure some parts to change after I get the bike.

Looking to get some help from you kind folks.

1) The Pulsar 200NS front disc, is that the first gen one or will even the newer discs fit on the Duke?

2) I'm looking to add the new D390's adjustable front brake lever. Would it be wise to even get the master cylinder? I use sintered pads, which are way better than the stock ones, but I want a little more bite from the front brakes.

3) Also looking to add the Adv 390's front footpegs. Is it a direct fit?

4) I've also read elsewhere that the Gen 3 exhaust on the older Dukes reduces engine temp. Quite a few Gen 3 exhausts on Olx and the likes, so was wondering if it would make sense.

Hey Guys!

For my DUKE 390 2023 Gen 2 :-
Thoughts on Using Apollo Alpha H1 for my Rear Tyre and Metzeler M5 Sportec on the front?

I recently swapped out my rear Stock Metzeler tyre at around 10k Km. With just the H1 at the rear.

However i’m noticing a height increase in the rear section with a slight uncomfortable feel on the back & wrists.
Also replaced it in a local shop so i feel like they could have also overtightened the chain possibly?

Will also getting another h1 on the front tyre “balance the bike”? Weird because both tyres are supposed to be the same height. :disappointed

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thebusyminute (Post 5758444)

Hey Guys!

Will also getting another h1 on the front tyre “balance the bike”? Weird because both tyres are supposed to be the same height. :disappointed

Very likely.

The aspect ratio is technically the height of the sidewall.

I do not think it takes the curve profile of the tread area into consideration.

Some tyres with the exact same specs (dimension numbers) are distinctly more curved than others, when viewed directly from behind.

The H1 is known as a tyre with a sharp tip in and a chicken strip that is almost impossible to reach. Which means it's highly curved. Which means the effective height is probably more as well.

Cheers, Doc

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thebusyminute (Post 5758444)

Strange! I've never had any issues with Apollo both F&R nor with Michelin Pilot Streets. I'd suggest you start off with tire pressure, get dynamic wheel balancing done and also make sure your chain freeplay is within spec 5 to 7 mm. Secondly, make sure a tire is replaced as a set, this is precisely why manufacturers recommend "set replacement" because there's ever so slight deviations slightly with sidewall, thread pattern and belt construction.

Nothing to be disappointed, really.

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadowrider (Post 5756365)

The gasket has started leaking. Lately been smelling a bit of oil after every ride and a quick inspection showed leaks at two places.

The first is the valve cover gasket. The oil wetness is around that round portion of the gasket and nowhere else. It doesn't leak or drip oil, but a minor seepage is there. Planning to get it rectified during the next service as my riding is now limited due to wfh. Can I ask the SVC to apply sealant along with the new gasket?

The second minor sweepage is from the magneto side. The cable has minor oil wetness, again no leak or dripping, just seepage. Not sure if the cable belongs to the stator or is it the neutral indicator switch and pulsing coil. Guess the only way to solve this is by applying sealant inside and outside. Since the oil needs to be drained I will see if I can push it to the next service date.

Both of these are common issues with the Duke, primarily owing to the temperatures those sorry little rubber grommets and O rings are subjected to. The valve cover gasket costs peanuts along with the grommet seal for the magneto wire exit. Using good quality black sealant for magneto wire exit grommet, both inner and outer along with new valve cover rubber gasket with sealant applied will make it a job well done and peace of mind.

Do NOT ever reuse the old weeping O ring/gasket with bond applied, unless it's a dire emergency. Patching up will only make the gasketing worse and which in turn will weep/leak even more.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

Quote:

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1 (Post 5758792)

Is it a good idea to ride around with this leak or can I stretch to the next service which is only after 4 months.

Quote:

Do NOT ever reuse the old weeping O ring/gasket with bond applied, unless it's a dire emergency. Patching up will only make the gasketing worse and which in turn will weep/leak even more.

Will keep this in mind, However I was under the impression that cable was the neutral/pulsing coil combo and wasn't the magneto cable. Isn't this the magneto cable?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by shadowrider (Post 5758810)

Will keep this in mind, However I was under the impression that cable was the neutral/pulsing coil combo and wasn't the magneto cable. Isn't this the magneto cable?

The one you've circled is the exit for magneto and the one opposite to it is the pick up coil or the crank position sensor. Both have grommets and both leak depending on hard luck, hence mentioned to get both grommets replaced and sealed with sealant.

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadowrider (Post 5758810)

Is it a good idea to ride around with this leak or can I stretch to the next service which is only after 4 months.

If it's an extremely mild weep and your mind allows you to accept it as it is, then perhaps yes. But in all sincerity 4 months is a long overdue and a lot is happening in between, so for now I'd strongly recommend you to replace all the leaky elements. It's hardly a 20 mins job and doesn't require draining of oil of sorts ( for valve cover replacement).

The other two grommets on the left might require an oil drain as oil circulates on both the sides of the engine. It can be done without engine oil drain too, but I'd leave that to the mechanic's discretion.

In short, get these done early!

Cheers!
VJ