[ebonho]

Originally Posted by shadowrider

Do you remember when was the last time you changed the water pump seal? I'd add that to this list too for keeping my overthinking mind at bay.

Never, as long as I've had the bike (which is 2,500km to the present 19,000+ km).

Why? What is the connection?

Cheers, Doc

[shadowrider]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Never, as long as I've had the bike (which is 2,500km to the present 19,000+ km).

Why? What is the connection?

Cheers, Doc

Considering the bike is now 11 years old and the seal is infamous for failing, so replacing it would be a good idea. This is just my opinion.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by shadowrider

Considering the bike is now 11 years old and the seal is infamous for failing, so replacing it would be a good idea. This is just my opinion.

Okay. Will speak to Sachin about it as well.

But is it related to the hesitant cold start and idle hinting issue (since you brought it up alongside your query on the same)?

In my experience, these failures were early on in the life of the bike, leading to coolant mixing with the engine oil. If it happened, it happened early. But there are thousands of Gen 1s running where it never happened. I think the vast majority. Because the reports were not serious enough to even trigger a recall.

Cheers, Doc

[shadowrider]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Okay. Will speak to Sachin about it as well.

But is it related to the hesitant cold start and idle hinting issue (since you brought it up alongside your query on the same)?

Absolutely not Doc. I just wanted an update on the idle issue, to keep in mind what to troubleshoot if I ever face a similar issue .

In my experience, these failures were early on in the life of the bike, leading to coolant mixing with the engine oil. If it happened, it happened early. But there are thousands of Gen 1s running where it never happened. I think the vast majority. Because the reports were not serious enough to even trigger a recall.

Now coming to the water pump seal, I was talking purely from a preventive maintenance standpoint. Yes, there are KTMs that still haven't changed these seals, but once I saw the list of work you are going to do soon, my mind urged me to suggest changing the water pump seal too. The current one might be in good condition, but considering a new one is around 300rs only, why not change it. That's all.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by shadowrider

Absolutely not Doc. I just wanted an update on the idle issue, to keep in mind what to troubleshoot if I ever face a similar issue .

Now coming to the water pump seal, I was talking purely from a preventive maintenance standpoint. Yes, there are KTMs that still haven't changed these seals, but once I saw the list of work you are going to do soon, my mind urged me to suggest changing the water pump seal too. The current one might be in good condition, but considering a new one is around 300rs only, why not change it. That's all.

Understood now. Will definitely update on what we find, as I always do.

Time is always at a premium for me, so unlike my Bullet days, the KTM allows me the luxury of fewer visits to the workshop and less time there. And that too only when needed, and very little if at all in the form of prevention or JIT maintenance besides regular services with oil changes.

The recent issues mostly stem from the bike having been unused totally and standing for 7 years. So when things are cropping up, I am getting around to getting them done.

The list reflects that. Been riding with these 3 main issues for some time now, so they definitely are priority. And not a small amount of work for a single technician, in a single shift.

Will definitely keep this item in mind. Thanks!

Cheers, Doc

[doga]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Yeah, that's actually the bottom line. I'm convinced about the superiority of braking for the 1051 spend compared to the 400 spend (kit + petrol). And more importantly, I eventually "want" the superior MC. Plus I have a lot of other more critical jobs lined up for this visit, so this can wait out a trial of a simple bleed + new brake fluid this time around.

1) New cone set
2) New chain sprocket kit
3) New hub cush rubbers set
4) New rear sprocket bearing ?
5) New rear wheel bearings ?
6) New chain slider ?
7) New swingarm rubber(?) bushes ?
8) Front brake MC bleed + new brake fluid
9) New brake pads - Front ? Rear ?
10) Check sensors for hesitant/long cold start cranking (Re: shadowrider - the idling searching is much better now, if I wait a bit, and press in the clutch a few times)
11) New engine oil
12) New oil filter + O ring
13) Clean air filter

Cheers, Doc

Other than the wheel bearing I got all the other things done within the last year or so. But the bike just doesn't feel sublime. Now after the coil replacement it is very sluggish. I am suspecting bad plug or lose plug fitting. Will pop the coil and plug out in next few days and see what it is.
I had a cold start issue once with my erstwhile cbr. It turned out to be a worn out neutral switch. Bike used to think it was not in neutral. It is a long shot but worth pondering?

[doga]

Originally Posted by b16h22

Just make sure they use the right circlip pliers to remove the circlip and there is not much to go wrong here imo. I have done it myself. Since you got the kit, it is wiser to rebuild it.

A circlip plier is a wise investment. I purchased one few years ago when I started to tear into my bikes and it was a godsend. Otherwise you keep fiddling flat head screwdrivers for hours before the clip pops out.
The master cylinder refurbish is a doddle however I didn't expect huge improvement when I did it but that was not on the duke. I'd lean towards getting a radial somehow which fits. A 14 would be perfect but a 15 would do too. Ebay would have lots of used parts abroad and if a friend can carry....

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by doga

Other than the wheel bearing I got all the other things done within the last year or so. But the bike just doesn't feel sublime. Now after the coil replacement it is very sluggish. I am suspecting bad plug or lose plug fitting. Will pop the coil and plug out in next few days and see what it is.
I had a cold start issue once with my erstwhile cbr. It turned out to be a worn out neutral switch. Bike used to think it was not in neutral. It is a long shot but worth pondering?

Can you please update about what exactly is needed to refurbish the swingarm bushes? Are they rubbers or plastics? Is it a big job or easily doable when you do the chain, slider, etc.

I too have a growing sneaky about a bad plug. Coz the current plug was replaced as part of my fuel pump issues trouble shooting. Just before finally replacing the fuel pump. What Im associating with the last big change (the pump) could well be the small one just prior (the plug). Ive kept the old plug (the beautiful cold coffee burn one of the photos). Will take that along with me.

The Duke does not need the clutch to be pressed on thumbing the start. So do you think the neutral switch is similarly involved?

Cheers, Doc

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by doga

Other than the wheel bearing I got all the other things done within the last year or so.

P.S. Doga everything in the list marked with a "?" means check and replace only if needed. The back n forth play of the rear sprocket means the cush rubbers definitely need a new set. The sprocket bearing too per the mech who checked it on the bike (without dismantling). The wheel bearings he was not sure about, but felt they too could be gone. So we will see what exactly needs replacing. The swingarm bushes and chain slider are my own adds. Again with a "?". Will get the main shaft (on which the front sprocket sits) looked at and the gear lever oil seal as well while in there.

Cheers, Doc

[shadowrider]

Originally Posted by doga

Now after the coil replacement it is very sluggish. I am suspecting bad plug or lose plug fitting. Will pop the coil and plug out in next few days and see what it is.

A worn-out ignition coil can produce the similar symptom you mentioned. A friend of mine had a similar issue ( rc 390 gen 1) where the bike felt sluggish and after changing the ignition coil the bike was back to its true nature.

[shadowrider]

The gasket has started leaking. Lately been smelling a bit of oil after every ride and a quick inspection showed leaks at two places.

The first is the valve cover gasket. The oil wetness is around that round portion of the gasket and nowhere else. It doesn't leak or drip oil, but a minor seepage is there. Planning to get it rectified during the next service as my riding is now limited due to wfh. Can I ask the SVC to apply sealant along with the new gasket?



The second minor sweepage is from the magneto side. The cable has minor oil wetness, again no leak or dripping, just seepage. Not sure if the cable belongs to the stator or is it the neutral indicator switch and pulsing coil. Guess the only way to solve this is by applying sealant inside and outside. Since the oil needs to be drained I will see if I can push it to the next service date.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by shadowrider

A worn-out ignition coil can produce the similar symptom you mentioned. A friend of mine had a similar issue ( rc 390 gen 1) where the bike felt sluggish and after changing the ignition coil the bike was back to its true nature.

Added to the list.



Cheers, Doc

[doga]

Originally Posted by shadowrider

A worn-out ignition coil can produce the similar symptom you mentioned. A friend of mine had a similar issue ( rc 390 gen 1) where the bike felt sluggish and after changing the ignition coil the bike was back to its true nature.

Yes, I am aware. But both coil and plugs were replaced recently as my old coil had stopped working. Now if they put the old coil back and only changed the plug but charged me for both I know not. A quick multimeter check and reveal coil health so we'll see. For now ordered NGK iridium plug. Going to pop the coil and replace the plug and see if the issue persists.
It has got be the plug or the coil or may the plug is little lose, as the sluggishness issue started right after I got my bike back with the new coil and plug!

[doga]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Can you please update about what exactly is needed to refurbish the swingarm bushes? Are they rubbers or plastics? Is it a big job or easily doable when you do the chain, slider, etc.

I too have a growing sneaky about a bad plug. Coz the current plug was replaced as part of my fuel pump issues trouble shooting. Just before finally replacing the fuel pump. What Im associating with the last big change (the pump) could well be the small one just prior (the plug). Ive kept the old plug (the beautiful cold coffee burn one of the photos). Will take that along with me.

The Duke does not need the clutch to be pressed on thumbing the start. So do you think the neutral switch is similarly involved?

Cheers, Doc

Doc, for chain replacement they undo the swingarm bolt that's it. For full overhaul the swingarm has to come out and new bearings have to go in.
Here is a parts diagram

https://www.bike-parts-ktm.com/ktm-m.../4575/5/0/4575

I don't think the clutch switch matters tbh. if the bike is in not in neutral it won't start. In my case with the cbr-which also started without the clutch pressed when in neutral- due to worn out neutral switch I think the circuit was not sufficiently closed. I am not 100% sure this is the issue though for you.

[ebonho]

Oh my God! Thats a big ass job for sure. Cancel! As discussed, will stick only to what has gone bust and needs attention. Frankly, the front brake does not then qualify, but all the talk of stoppie braking has goaded me to do "something". Lol

The KTM starts in gear if you keep the clutch pressed of course. Just saying in neutral, like other bikes (my son's Gixxer for instance) it does not need the clutch pressed.

Cheers, Doc