[ebonho]

Guys, how long do these parts last on a Gen 1 (a range would do) -

1) Chain sprocket kit (I have managed to kill my second set inside 14,000 km total bike running)

2) Fork T cone bearings

3) Rear sprocket bearing (I did not know the sprocket had a bearing of its own)

4) Rear wheel bearings

5) Rear wheel cush rubbers (I think a couple were replaced during the fitting of the second chain sprocket kit)

Also, how often should you replace (and bleed) your front brake fluid?

Thanks and Cheers,

Doc

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Guys, how long do these parts last on a Gen 1 (a range would do) -

I don't know about a fixed range since some of these are very dependent on the usage pattern. These were my numbers on my 13 390.

1) Chain sprocket kit - The OE kit lasted 19k but only 10K was from my side. That said, it developed uneven play very early in it's life. Second Rolon kit was barely worn when I sold the bike at about 32k . Mostly touring and very little commuting. I have seen replacements at as early as 8-9k on some bikes.

2) Fork T cone bearings - No specific range. Changed after 4-5 years because it was rusted.

3) Rear sprocket bearing - Never changed

4) Rear wheel bearings - Never changed

5) Rear wheel cush rubbers - Wanted to replace it at around 25k because there was play and some driveline backlash. Local svc didn't have the stock. This is also very throttle hand dependent.

6) Brake fluid - Probably once every two years on a relatively new bike. I prefer doing it once every year on an old bike with an aging braking system and seals. Brake fluid is cheap and they tend to be contaminated very quick on old braking systems

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by b16h22

I don't know about a fixed range since some of these are very dependent on the usage pattern.

5) Rear wheel cush rubbers - Wanted to replace it at around 25k because there was play and some driveline backlash. Local svc didn't have the stock. This is also very throttle hand dependent.

Thanks a ton bro.

I believe my bike is and has been telling me the same.

Same story with my Storme suspension elements over 10+ years.

Same story with rhe mileage I get.

But on the KTM it all just gets magnified because of the type of machine she is.

The drive train, front end, and rear wheel does take a beating. And our roads do the rest. Now that I ride her daily and shes not only a weekend warrior.

Cheers, Doc

[unk9ja]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Guys, how long do these parts last on a Gen 1 (a range would do) -

1) Chain sprocket kit

2) Fork T cone bearings

3) Rear sprocket bearing

4) Rear wheel bearings

5) Rear wheel cush rubbers

1. 16 to 18k is what I have been replacing the sprocket and chain. The chain starts to elongate around this mark, even though the sprocket seems quite good.

2. Once at 55k. I don't pressure wash often and I think it helps in the longevity of the bearings.

3. Twice, once at 45k as a precautionary measure at IndiMotard which was a BIG mistake. The replacement bearing was worn out to powder in less than 2k kms. Get these done with genuine spares only even though it may cost you a bit more.

4. Once at 62k along with the above as the bearings got damaged due to the failure of the sprocket bearing.

5. Twice in 63k.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by unk9ja

1. 16 to 18k is what I have been replacing the sprocket and chain. The chain starts to elongate around this mark, even though the sprocket seems quite good.

Thanks buddy. I'm a rough heavy rider who murders drivetrain components. No other way around it.

Went to Sai Service, Wagholi, my trusted guys for over 10 years on KTMs, besides being the seniormost KTM workshop in the country (like an apex tertiary care teaching hospital and research center).

Did not get the same comfort and confidence from KTM Lullanagar coz the 20 year old technician's stock phlegmatic answer for everything is ye gaya hai, ye gaya hai, ye khatam hai, replace/change karna padega ....

Which is a pity coz Lullanagar workshop is 5 km and 12 minutes for me, while Wagholi workshop is 15 km and 36 minutes for me.

Got the headset bearings adjusted per their suggestion, rather than opening up everything and replacement. Let us see. Feels good now. But it was the same story earlier. But they say readjustments ate common even for new cone and bearings, depending in road conditions.

Also got the confusion and discrepancies in my meter readings at different times and different KTMs (Kolhapur, Pune, Siliguri) solved. The meter shows 13600 odd, while the ECU shows 18200 odd. Photos will be taken and send to Bajaj KTM HQ, who will revise the records accordingly. Got to know through this that all.KTMs across the country are linked, abd once a km reading is entered into the database (job card, billing) at any KTM, it cannot be reversed by the next KTM, i.e. you cannot revise the Odo to a lower reading than the last one. It can only be done, with proper documentation and email, centrally.





Cheers, Doc

[shadowrider]

Ok, now I seriously don't know how to explain this but I will try my level best. The air filter housing on my used Duke 390 2013 is giving me major headaches. Firstly the the screws for the airbox top cover are different and the washer that sits inside the screw hole, well it isn't there. Now thanks to this different screw, the screw hole is messed up, both on the top cover as well as the bottom portion. The issue here is that on Sunday when I removed the air filter, at the bottom of the airbox I saw a plastic piece that had fallen from where the screw fits in.



Now I refitted the airbox, and every time I screw the lid back, the chances of the plastic falling back are high. Pretty much called all svc near my area and all of them don't have the airbox in stock. For them to order one, I need to go there pay them an advance of 500, and wait for 30 days. The waiting period is understandable, but having to go there to pay an advance not so much. Guess I will have to park the bike as starting it may suck the plastic inside. But the air filter does sit in front of the inlet but still don't want to take up unnecessary risk.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by shadowrider

Now I refitted the airbox, and every time I screw the lid back, the chances of the plastic falling back are high. Pretty much called all svc near my area and all of them don't have the airbox in stock. For them to order one, I need to go there pay them an advance of 500, and wait for 30 days.

I'm willing to bet a pretty handsome sum that there is not a single Gen 1 390 that does not have the same airbox cracked bodies, broken/disintegrating bolt eyelets, as yours does, if they are the ones that came from the factory 10+ years ago and have not been replaced some time along the way. I know mine has exactly the same small bits cracked on the eyelets.

The key is to make sure that the integrity of the air chamber proper is not compromised and that there is no channel of outside aur ingress. Otherwise the rest is simply external anchoring fitment plastic wear and tear. Look at what happens to the plastics on 30,000 buck Alpinestars riding boots, and say a silent prayer to KTM and Bajaj that your humble sub thousand buck box is still doing its very critical job.

On another note, the cone resetting lasted all of one or two days and the loose play feeling is back in my hands. Not enjoying it at all. The moment I get my chain, the bike is going in for a new cone set, chain kit and sprocket bearing (if needed), rear wheel rubbers and bearings (if needed), a front brake bleed and new fluid, and replace the engine oil (I think I've gotten maybe 2000+ km on the mineral Petronas, and am happy with that as a resurrection cost).

Cheers, Doc

[shadowrider]

Originally Posted by ebonho

The key is to make sure that the integrity of the air chamber proper is not compromised and that there is no channel of outside aur ingress. Otherwise the rest is simply external anchoring fitment plastic wear and tear. Look at what happens to the plastics on 30,000 buck Alpinestars riding boots, and say a silent prayer to KTM and Bajaj that your humble sub thousand buck box is still doing its very critical job.

The air filter unit is doing its job, there is no dust visible inside, as far as I can see. But what I am worried about as mentioned, is the plastic tear that fell to the bottom of the box from the eyelet during the time the screw is tightened. Will the filter prevent it (if at all any fell to the bottom once I refitted it and future ones) from being sucked from the bottom to the inlet?

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by shadowrider

The air filter unit is doing its job, there is no dust visible inside, as far as I can see. But what I am worried about as mentioned, is the plastic tear that fell to the bottom of the box from the eyelet during the time the screw is tightened. Will the filter prevent it (if at all any fell to the bottom once I refitted it and future ones) from being sucked from the bottom to the inlet?

If something is fallen inside the box, take it out, throw it away, and wipe the inside of the box clean. Once you put the bolts through the eyelets, line up the top cover of the box over the rim of the base perfectly and tighten everything up, nothing new is going to break and fall off inside. The breaking and falling in happens only when you loosen the bolts to open the box to access the air filter. At least that's my belief. Happy to be corrected if I'm wrong.

Cheers, Doc

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by shadowrider

Ok, now I seriously don't know how to explain this but I will try my level best. The air filter housing on my used Duke 390 2013 is giving me major headaches. Guess I will have to park the bike as starting it may suck the plastic inside. But the air filter does sit in front of the inlet but still don't want to take up unnecessary risk.

This is precisely the reason why the newer gens come with wider OD Philips headed screws than these 8 mm bolts for the air filter cover. The newer gens have a flatter and sturdier air filter cover. I'd strongly recommend you to use the Philips screw with your new AF BOX as opposed to the standard sized OE bolt. The bolt simply will carry more torque than a screw and that's why most AF boxes have a screw rather than a bolt for their AF covers. Brittle plastics and fat bolt is a no-no. A design flaw in the old bikes irrespective of the NM rating humbly slapped big and loud on the cover.

Next, time you know what to do. Get yourself a set of 8 mm Philips screw and torque it just about 3 to 4 turns till the first point of resistance is observed and stop at that, budge no more.

Life lessons served with honey!

Cheers!
VJ

[shadowrider]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Once you put the bolts through the eyelets, line up the top cover of the box over the rim of the base perfectly and tighten everything up, nothing new is going to break and fall off inside. The breaking and falling in happens only when you loosen the bolts to open the box to access the air filter. At least that's my belief. Happy to be corrected if I'm wrong.

Cheers, Doc

This is reassuring Doc. If you look at my image, you can see the inside of the eyelets, there are several strands of hard loose plastic, that you could essentially peel off. The case for the eyelet on the fixed part of the air filter cover is even worse. It's these loose strands that I could see at the bottom of the box.

Now if these loose strands only land at the bottom of the box removing the screw then it's no big deal, but if it gets loose during retightening, then I would have to trust the filter does its job and the loose strands stay at the bottom and never reach the inlet.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by shadowrider

Now if these loose strands only land at the bottom of the box removing the screw then it's no big deal, but if it gets loose during retightening, then I would have to trust the filter does its job and the loose strands stay at the bottom and never reach the inlet.

Just chuck away any loose broken off plastic piece you can see visually. These are eyelets. They do not intrude into the main air chamber. The only way a plastic piece can fall inside is if it is wedged in the bolt thread when you remove the top cover, and when you lift up the cover, it dislodges from there and falls inside.

KTM plastics are pretty sturdy. Its only recently when playing around with swapping bulbs that I noticed that my headlight nacelle has both press rivets broken off on one side, and that the top two allen bolts of the plastic around the speedo display, both were missing the flat metal bushes that go under the plastic, sandwiching it between them and the allen bolt. The allen bolts were thus torquing the plastic piece directly against the piece below, for easily 7+ years (last time I replaced the bulb in Siliguri) with no bush backing, and yet no cracking of any plastic happened. And its the front end of the bike. That takes all the hits.

Cheers, Doc

[pandu1564]

Fitted my 390 Duke with NS/RS 200 Petal Disc at front due to warped old disc.
Took a test ride to Tamhini Ghat.
The Feedback is crispier as compared to before.
Loving the look!!

[SavoyWalrus]

Originally Posted by pandu1564

Fitted my 390 Duke with NS/RS 200 Petal Disc at front due to warped old disc.
Took a test ride to Tamhini Ghat.
The Feedback is crispier as compared to before.
Loving the look!!

That's pretty cool. Did you have to change the wheel axle or does it go with the original Duke axle?

[SavoyWalrus]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Would strongly recommend Zedling in that case primarily because of their service back-up and the off-road credibility they have to offer. YSS is expensive and for the most part work well, but they dole-out when it comes to the ease of query, warranty and what not. Zedling is revered among the ADV 390 and xPulse 200 clan for their superior performance credibility and back-up.

Hoping it helps to make an informed decision.

Cheers!
VJ

Finally got the Zedling installed on my 2015 Duke 390, and boy oh boy, what a difference it has made to the ride. The old suspension used to bounce around a bit and was a little harsh on bad roads. The new one stays flat even when riding at a decent speed over poor roads and inspires a lot of confidence. Super impressed with the build quality as well as the overall performance. In conversation with them for front springs.