[Vignesh_N/A]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Ditto same reasoning. I was getting a mild trrrrrrr metallic sound at certain acceleration revs which was narrowed down to it. The mech just bent it into shape so that metal to metal harmonics ceased. Thats when I asked him, why not remove it and straighten it. And he told me why. Let the two now remain wedded for life.



Thanks Vignesh. I doubt he's going to be carving corners in the wet!

How do they stack up versus the other two budget contenders - the stock MRF Revz radials and the nylon bias ply Michelin Pilot Street 2?

Specifically, is the rubber soft compound as Ceats generally are compared to their same spec/alternative MRF counterparts?

Cheers, Doc

Apologies. I had Duke 390 in my mind when I typed that reply.

Based on my experience with Revz C and Revz C1 on my Duke 200, I would say zoom rad X1 is definitely better of the lot.

I dont have experience with Pilot Street.

It does look like the tyre scene has changed a lot now.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Vignesh_N/A

Apologies. I had Duke 390 in my mind when I typed that reply.

Based on my experience with Revz C and Revz C1 on my Duke 200, I would say zoom rad X1 is definitely better of the lot.

Not at all buddy. Really appreciate real world feedback such as yours.

Thanks Vignesh.

I saw the photos of the Zooms mounted on your bike in the tyre thread link you provided. Look quite nice and rounded when mounted. An added plus.

Cheers, Doc

[Weathered]

If you're looking for a pair of tyres that are reasonably priced for what they offer, I'd recommend Apollo Alpha H1. Paid about 10K around a couple of years back and have done a few thousand km mainly touring, they are solid performers in varied road conditions.

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by shadowrider

the starter motor cable is way past its life, the insulation is torn and every time I press the starter smoke will arise from there. So, bought a new cable.Part number JG402236.

Here's the cable with the insulation torn and from where the smoke arises.

Now the second part is where the real trouble starts. The starter motor works, but the connecting point and nut are rusted. Also, the rubber covering of the current cable somehow got melted to it. Now, is the starter motor repairable? When enquired at the SVC the new one for bs3 is priced at 8000rs. I was also wondering if the dominars will work. (noob here).

The bruised-up started motor.

You see, electricity doesn't like unauthorized restrictions. When you make an unwarranted restriction in a live line, the line is either going to melt or burn. Your wires are melting primarily because they cannot transfer the full AMPERAGE of the battery to the starter motor, thereby overloading the wire, which in turn is burning/smoking the wire. The culprit, the faulty commutator pole that is rusted.

If electricity has a prime opponent that would be excessive rusting. Rusting prevents conductivity and that causes all sorts of grounding and earthing issues that we commonly see on vehicles.

Your starter motor is totally serviceable. Get it serviced at a nearby garage that deals with electrical windings for heavy duty motors or general automobile electrical shops. Replacing/sandpapering the commutator pole free of rust by replacing the commutator brushes, cleaning the innards, the armature, the magnets sans of any carbon accumulation and your starter should work just as new.

Your starter motor is completely salvageable. Good luck.

Originally Posted by ebonho

Ok, unblinding the identities of the different beams
So, Vijay likes the warmer yellow and the more even and wider spread of the STOCK KTM H4 halogen (that is also an Osram bulb) for both the low and high beams.
Frankly, the stock bulb is really good, and very close to the import that cost as much as 4 times more!
Kudos Bajaj for giving us the good stuff.

Cheers, Doc

Thank you Doc. The fact that the stock bulb is an Osram and German made. You do get Osrams H4 at the same rating, but they're more Indian made which are 10x better than ... one to strictly avoid are those abysmal Chinese made Osrams which burn out way earlier.

Cheers!
VJ

[Dhruv Shetty]

Today while i was at Zenngine getting the valve clearance done, i asked if the Dominar starter motor is a direct fit and it is, the only difference will be the paint

[mithun]

Originally Posted by ebonho

How do they stack up versus the other two budget contenders - the stock MRF Revz radials and the nylon bias ply Michelin Pilot Street 2?

Specifically, is the rubber soft compound as Ceats generally are compared to their same spec/alternative MRF counterparts?

Cheers, Doc

I'm having Ceat Zoom Rad X1 in my Duke 250 and its better than MRF Revz/Michelin Pilot Street 2. Apollo Alpha H1 is a heavier tyre when compared to others.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by mithun

I'm having Ceat Zoom Rad X1 in my Duke 250 and its better than MRF Revz/Michelin Pilot Street 2. Apollo Alpha H1 is a heavier tyre when compared to others.

I am specifically for now only interested in the front tyre. And how it holds and gives feedback and confidence into a lean. Could you share on that aspect specifically. My son had a low speed lowside on his stock Revz and its now gotten into his head that the tyre has hardened (even though the tread is perfect ... his 2019 bike is at around 20k odd, mainly commuting miles).

Cheers, Doc

[mithun]

Originally Posted by ebonho

I am specifically for now only interested in the front tyre. And how it holds and gives feedback and confidence into a lean. Could you share on that aspect specifically. My son had a low speed lowside on his stock Revz and its now gotten into his head that the tyre has hardened (even though the tread is perfect ... his 2019 bike is at around 20k odd, mainly commuting miles).

Cheers, Doc

The cornering grip of Ceat would be 10-15% less when compared to Apollo. But better than MRF Revz/Michelin Pilot Street 2.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by mithun

The cornering grip of Ceat would be 10-15% less when compared to Apollo. But better than MRF Revz/Michelin Pilot Street 2.

Thanks. That's good enough. I've ridden the Duke 200 on Revz in 2012. And very hard. Am sure 12 years on they've only gotten better. Plus the freshness and softness of the rubber of a new tyre.

In fact, the next big tour, I will go in for a set of these Ceats, and take off my current Metzelers. Touring eats up the center of a good soft performance tyre like nothing else. And I've tried and not liked the option of knobby dual purpose tyres. The Duke just does not feel like a Duke, and they come into their own only for the 1000-1500-max 2000 odd kilometres in the mountains, before the long 4000-6000 kilometres of high speed highway riding hit you again.

So a street set that does not cost the earth is in my humble opinion the best bang for buck. And muscle and slide them across the mountains.

Cheers, Doc

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by ebonho

I am specifically for now only interested in the front tyre. And how it holds and gives feedback and confidence into a lean. Could you share on that aspect specifically. My son had a low speed lowside on his stock Revz and its now gotten into his head that the tyre has hardened (even though the tread is perfect ... his 2019 bike is at around 20k odd, mainly commuting miles).

Cheers, Doc

The hardening of these front MRFs is not uncommon. I had a similar issue in my Gixxer. It was a used buy but the tyres were only 3.5 years old (the bike was only 2). They were quite poor. Rubber was hard and felt wooden in feedback. The tyres were 2019 made on a 2021 registered bike. That had something to do with the grip.

The current Maxxis front is a night & day difference in feel. Gixxer has a beautifully communicative front end and good tyres improve the feeling..

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by b16h22

The current Maxxis front is a night & day difference in feel. Gixxer has a beautifully communicative front end and good tyres improve the feeling..

Which Maxxis front tyre bro? This is now a new contender! Pray tell. Everything.

Cheers, Doc

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Which Maxxis front tyre bro? This is now a new contender! Pray tell. Everything.

Cheers, Doc

This is it.

https://www.torqueblock.com/maxxis-e...6233-110-70-17

https://maxxistyres.co.in/products/Motorcycle/M6233

It is not a radial though but the compound seems soft. Even feels a bit squishy to me. Got it for 2500 from the local market. Not a popular option like the Maxxis dual sport tyres. Working well for my usage so far. Done about 1500kms on them.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by b16h22

This is it.

Looks nice. Has the central line like the Michelin Pilot Street 2. My tyre guy is giving the Michelin for 2800 and the Ceat for 3200.

However, the Ceat is 3223 manufacturing, which means second week of last August. Nearly 6 months old.

No MRF, Apollo or TVS in stock. Maxxis too this size he does not have. Will check day after.

Cheers, Doc

[VijayAnand1]

Doc these are the order of my preference.

Metz > Pirelli > Michelin > Apollo > Maxxis > Ceat > MRF.

Apollo will be the excellent all rounder followed Michelin especially considering the price parity. Maxxis is a great choice too.

Cheers!
VJ

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Doc these are the order of my preference.

Metz > Pirelli > Michelin > Apollo > Maxxis > Ceat > MRF.

Apollo will be the excellent all rounder followed Michelin especially considering the price parity. Maxxis is a great choice too.

Cheers!
VJ

Which Michelin? We have been discussing 3 different ones. Pilot Street 2, Pilot 4, and Road 5.

Maxxis which one? The bias ply one above (don't know the name)? Better than radial Ceats?

Maxxis stock in Poona is very old. 2021 and 2022. If at all available in size.

Cheers, Doc