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-   -   The KTM Duke 390 Ownership Experience Thread (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorbikes/138082-ktm-duke-390-ownership-experience-thread-469.html)

What about Michelin Pilot Street.

I recall someone here from Pune putting a ser on his Gen 1 Duke 390 for under 6k.

Cheers, Doc

The tyre scene has changed drastically Doc. Those imported rubber like Michelin Pilot streets and Metzeler M5s are now either eye wateringly expensive or unavailable thanks to lobbying from Indian tyre makers and import restrictions. The current popular sports riding options are those H1s and Protorq Extremes.

There is a current Indian spec Michelin Pilot street IND 2 on sale. I didn't see any favorable reviews on them from enthusiasts. They seem to be placed towards commuting than sports riding. And they are bias ply tyres compared to old Pilot Street Radials

I'll take you word for it bro. I'm Kumbhakaran woken up from his long nap.

Check out the date ...



Cheers, Doc

As suspected, you can see the Street 2 name on the bill. That one number makes a big difference here :coldsweat.

Old Michelin Pilot Street Radials (H rated I believe)



Current Indian spec Pilot Street 2



This tyre is P rated according to their website. The stock MRFs on the Gixxer are S rated tyres. Quite a difference in speed index.

https://www.michelin.in/motorbike/ty...-2?tyreSize=17

Been calling up my tyre contacts.

The Michelin bias ply front ones seem to have some customers complain of an uncomfortable feel. Even a wobble. Plus nylon old style bias ply. Bottom of the consideration set.

Then there are Pilot 4s fir 13+ a set and Road 5 for 20k a set.

The Apollo Alpha H1s are around 12k for a set. Haven't found the corresponding TVS ones anywhere.

There is Apollo Alpha S1s too. Cheaper. But don't come in the stock front size of 110/70 but instead a 110/80. That's a 11 mm difference in sidewall height.

The stock MRF Revz are not available anywhere surprisingly.

The final ones are Ceat Zoom Rad. Come in the stock front size. Tread pattern too looks nice, like the Metzelers and Apollo H1s. The profile is not as rounded though like them or the Michelin either. Cost is a bit more than rhe bias ply Indian Michelins. Any feedback on these?

In my experience generally, Ceat rubber runs softer than MRF rubber for equivalent tyres.

Cheers, Doc

Doc, i have used mrf revz, metzeler m5, alpha h1 and metzeler m7 on my 2 bikes. If its budget constraint then you are better off with alpha h1. Back in 2021 i bought the set for 11k for my 390. H1 offers good road grip better than the stock metz m5 i would say and the wear rate is also much slower. It has lasted for 15k kms for some.

Metz m7 offers much better grip than the alpha h1 but also wears much quicker. Turn in and direction changes is much quicker than h1. Its a little expensive i bought the set for 21k in 2023 for the svartpilen.:)

I dont have any feedback about ceat.

I would not compromise on tyres at any cost. The two black patches are what keeps you off the ground.

I'll definitely go for Road 5 once my current set of tyres are done. Thanks to their dual compound construction, they will last longer than other options and that will also help offset the higher initial cost.

Hi, I recently purchased a 2013 Duke 390, and it's been a blast so far, except for the starter motor :unhappy. Mainly there are two issues, the starter motor cable is way past its life, the insulation is torn and every time I press the starter smoke will arise from there. So, bought a new cable.Part number JG402236.

Here's the cable with the insulation torn and from where the smoke arises.


Now the second part is where the real trouble starts. The starter motor works, but the connecting point and nut are rusted. Also, the rubber covering of the current cable somehow got melted to it. Now, is the starter motor repairable? When enquired at the SVC the new one for bs3 is priced at 8000rs. I was also wondering if the dominars will work. (noob here).

The bruised-up started motor.

Try soaking it in WD40?

I have a favourite set of pliers that are jammed up like this with rust. WD40 did not work.:sadface

I have the same issue with the bolt of the silver heat shield of my silencer. It jams solid because of corrosion/oxidation and the mech says if you try to get it off, because it has been heat cycled so many times, it will just shear off leaving you to get a specialist to remove the left over threaded piece.

Cheers, Doc

I switched from TVS Protorq Extreme to Ceat Zoom Rad X1. I found it satisfied for the most part, particularly highway performance. Its good for racking up miles. But I didn't feel confident enough with wet performance in ghat roads. So I switched back to Alpha H1 after 5000 kms.

They are decent tyres I think. I haven't used them personally. You can find some reviews and feedback on them in the tyres thread. It is a pretty common fitment on KTMs here. They are also Radials.

Road 5s are overkill for the 250s IMHO. Unless you have unlimited budget and want unlimited grip. Even the stock MRFs are good enough if you understand your limits.

I must say the Indian tyre makers are taking big advantage of the tyre situation (which they lobbied for) by pricing their premium offerings on par with the old imported stuff.

Exactly. Which is why I kept silent to the two earlier replies. :) I know its a fashionable thing to say price no barrier, only the best will do.

But I rode the teats off a Duke 200 on stock Revz. And my son is more a commuter on a less manic 250

I do appreciate all your inputs anyways. I do like the look of the Ceats. Will check some You Tube hits as well.

Cheers, Doc

The wd-40 in this scenario might have its limitations. Now installing a new cable without removing the rust doesn't seem like a good idea, as it might affect the current flow and may cause the cable to overheat. The local mech said that he would replace the nuts with the same size, but I am not so sure about the part where all of it connects can be restored fully.

The heat shield bolt in my case is also similar, rusted, but don't see any reason to fiddle around with it for now :coldsweat.

Ditto same reasoning. I was getting a mild trrrrrrr metallic sound at certain acceleration revs which was narrowed down to it. The mech just bent it into shape so that metal to metal harmonics ceased. Thats when I asked him, why not remove it and straighten it. And he told me why. Let the two now remain wedded for life.

Thanks Vignesh. I doubt he's going to be carving corners in the wet!

How do they stack up versus the other two budget contenders - the stock MRF Revz radials and the nylon bias ply Michelin Pilot Street 2?

Specifically, is the rubber soft compound as Ceats generally are compared to their same spec/alternative MRF counterparts?

Cheers, Doc

Merged to the post above. Apologies for the back to back posts.