[Suraj25]

Guys is this normal?


Also, the abs has gotten louder(when it kicks in).
Is that something to worry about?

Haven't been using the bike much since 4-5 months. Kindly advise as I'm planning to take it out for a 200km ride tomorrow.

Thank you!

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by Suraj25

Guys is this normal?
Attachment 1405869

Also, the abs has gotten louder(when it kicks in).
Is that something to worry about?

Haven't been using the bike much since 4-5 months. Kindly advise as I'm planning to take it out for a 200km ride tomorrow.

Thank you!

If the engine oil is just weeping and not a proper leakage it shouldn't be much of a problem. It's a common niggle. I have done a 300 km ride with slight seepage from the same region as shown in the picture. Check your oil level in regular intervals. And keep a bottle of oil with you in case anything bad happens. After the ride take your motorcycle to the svc.

[ksameer1234]

Originally Posted by Suraj25

Guys is this normal?

Originally Posted by b16h22

If the engine oil is just weeping and not a proper leakage it shouldn't be much of a problem. It's a common niggle.

I have a friend who Duke 390 leaks from the same location. Can't make out clearly from the image but the quantity of leak seems almost same.

Last week I noticed that even my RC 390 leaks from the same location. However, with fairing and all, the quantity is not clear but I presume it is most probably less.

I hope this isn't a big concern.

[Urban_Nomad]

Originally Posted by Suraj25

Guys is this normal?

Originally Posted by ksameer1234

I hope this isn't a big concern.

It isnt normal, but not a huge concern either. Head over to the SVC and get the head gasket replaced. Problem solved!

[ksameer1234]

Originally Posted by Urban_Nomad

It isnt normal, but not a huge concern either. Head over to the SVC and get the head gasket replaced. Problem solved!

This is exactly what I am not very confident about. From what I understand, replacing the head gasket will require taking the bike apart and however stupid it may sound, I fear KTM service guys won't put the bike together without messing something or other.

Hence, I would rather let it be than try to fix one problem and end up with ten more.

[Urban_Nomad]

Originally Posted by ksameer1234

I fear KTM service guys won't put the bike together without messing something or other.

Hence, I would rather let it be than try to fix one problem and end up with ten more.

Fair enough. I did get mine replaced and no issues with the bike thus far. Have done a shade under 14K kms. The gasket was replaced around 3K kms IIRC

But yes, YMMV

[Akhilash95]

I am done with my rear metzelers with just 9k kms on them. I love cornering , have managed an average score of 4-4.2 on the Metz .
Now I have 2 options
Michelin pilot street
1. 140/70 @ 3600
2. 150/60 @ 5400

I want to go for 140 section but I am afraid that I might fall off my bike , stupid!
I am not worried about the ride height or rims as the Metz never let me down even after going a good number of potholes , including an unfortunate incident, where I had jump over a unmarked speed breaker at close to 100kmph

My usage will be mainly in the city with occasional early morning short rides.

So, is 140section unsafe ? Can i adjust to it ?

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by ksameer1234

I have a friend who Duke 390 leaks from the same location. Can't make out clearly from the image but the quantity of leak seems almost same.

Last week I noticed that even my RC 390 leaks from the same location. However, with fairing and all, the quantity is not clear but I presume it is most probably less.

I hope this isn't a big concern.

Get the gasket replaced mate. I've had mine replaced three months ago. So far so good. Nothing leaking yet. It's not a movie concern. You can get it replaced under warranty. I was not so lucky being the second owner

[Urban_Nomad]

Originally Posted by Akhilash95

I am done with my rear metzelers

I want to go for 140 section

Question - When you have the factory recommended tyre size available, why do you want to go for the 140 section? It would have been a valid concern till the 150 section Michelins were not launched but not anymore

Also; do recheck the price for the 140 tyre. 3600 seems too less. IIRC, the 140 was not priced too far from the 5000 mark. Do check the tyre manufacturing date and even the make. Hope its not something like "Pilot sporty" that is on offer here, which as you already may know is a VERY different tyre from the Pilot Street

[Akhilash95]

Originally Posted by Urban_Nomad

Question - When you have the factory recommended tyre size available, why do you want to go for the 140 section?

They are on sale on flipkart. May be they are very old stock. Got carried away by the mouthwatering price of 140section pilot street .
I guess I'll stick to the stock ratings then, but still would like to know if there'll be significant difference in their performance.

[Urban_Nomad]

Originally Posted by Akhilash95

They are on sale on flipkart. May be they are very old stock. Got carried away by the mouthwatering price of 140section pilot street .
I guess I'll stick to the stock ratings then, but still would like to know if there'll be significant difference in their performance.

On the track:

One of the fastest racers on the BIC reported a difference of over 4 seconds between his fastest times. This is Metz vs 140 section Michelin. The gap should reduce significantly IMO with the 150, but still be slower than the Metz (to be verified)

On the street:

I have the 150 Michelin on my bike. Fellow member Aditya Bhardwaj is on a 140. For street use, 140 also does fine. He's even done Ladakh on these tyres. But again, when you have the correct spec tyre available for a few hundred bucks extra; why bother?

[RiderZone]

Originally Posted by punterccrx8s

Also how much should the tire pressure be ideally? I've been running at 28 Front and 28.5 rear even though recommended is 25 front.

Recommended tire pressure is 25 front, 32 rear, and I generally stay within +1 of those values. Never faced any trouble. There are disadvantages of both too high and too low pressure, so I don't use too much of my brain and stick with what the company says

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

I guess keeping the bike on the ground and keeping it on paddock would mean approximately same thing as both the cases compresses the swing arm. What could make a difference is when additional load of the weight of rider is added.

Anyhow, do you mean you tighten the chain to the point when you push the bottom part of the chain upwards, it just about touches the underside of the swing arm? i try and follow the same. Also, when i open the front sprocket cover and check, there seems to be slight play in the front sprocket. Is that normal?
Wishful thinking: with all the hightech equipment such as USD, Metzs, forged pistons, coated cylinder, and slipper assist, they could have thrown in a shaft drive as well for some extra monies

I think when the bike is on paddock, the rear shocker has no load on it at all. But when it's on the ground, there is. In any case, I was told to tighten the chain like that by Sachin at KTM Seawoods, and I didn't ask any questions because he's like the best service engineer I've ever met

Yes, moving the chain upwards so that it doesn't touch the swingarm. I'm not sure of the play in the front sprocket, never really noticed that!

Haha, I would be pretty happy with just a belt drive too. The Duke is a pretty maintenance-free machine, except for the chain that needs near-constant attention. What would I not do to get rid of that pain.

Originally Posted by Urban_Nomad

Could you please elaborate why? Whatever google has thrown up on the subject, the unanimous opinion of the bikers around the world is to err on the side of caution and leave the chain slightly looser than tight. A tight chain can cause a lot of wear and tear, especially to the countershaft which can be an expensive fix. It will of course eat your sprocket and consequently the chain itself, including the possibility of chain snapping in two whilst riding

The worst that can happen with a loose chain though is that it comes off the sprocket, that too in a scenario where its extremely loose

Do let me know your thoughts

This is based on my experience with the chain. If I keep it a bit loose, the ever-present wobble on the chain means that it gets far too loose at certain points, and then it starts hitting the swingarm and chain cover every few seconds, plus that sound is really scary when you are leaning into a corner and trying to make the apex.

When I said I keep it a bit tight, I mean just slightly above the optimum point, not too much. One of the important reasons for this is that I'm an extremely lazy guy, and that little bit of tightness keeps the chain from getting too loose for an extra few days. In the last 4 chain sets that I've gone through, I've realized that it doesn't make any difference, it lasts only 15,000 odd kms or so, if ridden nicely.

[barcalad]

Originally Posted by Akhilash95

I am done with my rear metzelers with just 9k kms on them. I love cornering , have managed an average score of 4-4.2 on the Metz .
Now I have 2 options
Michelin pilot street
1. 140/70 @ 3600
2. 150/60 @ 5400

The quoted prices are way too low for the retail price of the Michelin. Kindly recheck with a trusted tyre shop.

I have been using the 150 for the last 4500 kms and till date the treads are still very deep. The tyre looks brand new from every angle.
More then cornering and track usage, the sector where the Michelin gets advantage over the Metz is gravel, wet tarmac and sand. Stays steady and secure at all times!
As far as cornering goes, I have been mighty impressed by it's performance, even while taking sharp corners at cute speeds.
Cosmetically, I feel that it gives out a larger appearance than the Metz, particularly because of it's tread patterns. I have had instances where fellow bikers have asked me plenty of questions just on the tyre!

Overall, I am more than satisfied by it. Like my ride, it has been complete VFM, or perhaps more than it.

As far as the 140 goes, fellow bhpian and mate man_of_steel uses it. He's the best person to comment on it.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

I guess keeping the bike on the ground and keeping it on paddock would mean approximately same thing as both the cases compresses the swing arm. What could make a difference is when additional load of the weight of rider is added.

Anyhow, do you mean you tighten the chain to the point when you push the bottom part of the chain upwards, it just about touches the underside of the swing arm? i try and follow the same. Also, when i open the front sprocket cover and check, there seems to be slight play in the front sprocket. Is that normal?

I believe that chain should be adjusted with the rider on the bike. When I am adjusting the chain and I dont have any helping hand I usually leave the chain loose (A reference point is chain just touching the lower part of swing arm in the mid point). And if chain is adjusted this way, chain slap is unavoidable!

+1 on the uneven slack. My first sprocket had this issue. Now the second one might have done about 8K Kms and has already developed uneven slack, due to which I have to leave the chain even mode loose to compensate for the slack in the tightest point. KTM should really look into this!

Regarding the play in front sprocket, is it side to side play or radial play? If it is radial, check if the rear sprocket is having similar radial play. If it does (It should ideally), it would be time to replace the cush drive rubber dampers inside the rear wheel.

[nasirkaka]

This is exactly what I am not very confident about. From what I understand, replacing the head gasket will require taking the bike apart and however stupid it may sound, I fear KTM service guys won't put the bike together without messing something or other.

Dont really have to take the bike apart. Remove the head cover, replace the gasket with sealant. I had similar leak and was fixed without it surfacing again. I have always had minor weep from the oil filter cap and am living with it.

I am done with my rear metzelers with just 9k kms on them. I love cornering , have managed an average score of 4-4.2 on the Metz .
Now I have 2 options
Michelin pilot street
1. 140/70 @ 3600
2. 150/60 @ 5400

Been using Mich 150/60 for last 6k kms without much issue. No experience with 140 section.

I think when the bike is on paddock, the rear shocker has no load on it at all. But when it's on the ground, there is. In any case, I was told to tighten the chain like that by Sachin at KTM Seawoods, and I didn't ask any questions because he's like the best service engineer I've ever met

The bike is supported at swing arm with paddock, which would result in rear shock compression, as the swing arm is on pivot. Or am i missing something? anyhow i recently got the paddock, before which i use to adjust the chain with the bike on ground. Still was never satisfied.

I believe that chain should be adjusted with the rider on the bike. When I am adjusting the chain and I dont have any helping hand I usually leave the chain loose (A reference point is chain just touching the lower part of swing arm in the mid point). And if chain is adjusted this way, chain slap is unavoidable!

Even indimotard believes in setting the chain with rider on the bike (just like bullets), inwhich case the slap is really pronounced. feels like there is no set formula for adjustment, and gets even more tricky with uneven chain slack.