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-   -   The KTM Duke 390 Ownership Experience Thread (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorbikes/138082-ktm-duke-390-ownership-experience-thread-267.html)

Irritating as it may be, I like Shell's policy on this. On the pretext of getting down from the bike, at least I stretch my legs! :)

Although the curious case of this Duke lighting up is intriguing. Needs to be escalated or maybe the owner should come up and give his side of the story.

My svc has asked me to bring the bike at around 5000 km. I think we should not delay the service of the bike even if there is a change in the schedule.

Try OLX and local classified. Sometimes getting rid of your misery is the best solution. From all the posts here it does appear you are not happy with your purchase.

And you are preaching to a population who cant even recognize these are quirks purely because most of them have owned machines that taught them to look at getting the best out of these bikes.

I am sure i made the same comment long time back, but here again i say, irrespective of the quirks this 2L bike is worth atleast twice the cost you are paying for what it provides a rider. The nearest to this bike with your expectation will cost you as much as the triumph and if thats what you want, you have to shell atleast 4 times this bikes cost.

KTM390 by anyday is my top bike for cost, replacement parts cost and maintenance and the best of riding experience ever for many of us.

here's the video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrCkExl_PdY

Dear 390 Owners...Yesterday i did a long ride on NH44 on my Duke 390 and the engine temperature was absolutely under control all through the highway ride.
On return as soon as i entered city limits and sailed through the traffic, there was a steady rise in the temperature on the speedo console (nothing indicated i reached the danger levels). As i reached home and turned off the engine, coolant started to leak on to the floor. Is this normal ? Should i to up the lost coolant?

Thanks for your advice. I will surely try OLX when I plan to sell my bike. Right now I am not intending to. I have not preached to anyone. And I will try to help others who post their concerns in whatever way I can. I know what this bike is worth and I will try to get the maximum for what I have paid.

Temperature rise in traffic is quite normal, as long as it dosenot reach the overheat level. But coolant leak needs to be got checked as it is not normal. Meanwhile, if the coolant has reached below the min mark, its better to top up as you wouldnt know how much coolant loss has taken place.

This is definitely not normal, my guess is the cap on coolant tank has gone wonky. check if it's tightened properly. Once the bike has cooled down make sure to top up the coolant to at least the minimum level.

There are multiple things to check here.

1. In city conditions, it is normal for the engine to heat up all the way upto the 8th or 9th bar. But something is wrong if it shows "High coolant temperature" on the console. From your post, I'm not sure if it's displayed or not. If it did, then you need to check a) If the fan was running. b) If the fan was running, then why did it overheat? Something might be wrong with the radiator.

2. When the "High coolant temperature" flashes, the ECU shuts off the engine to prevent further damage. You cannot start the engine until it cools down to normal temperatures. If the ECU did not shut off the engine, you need to check why. Might be an issue with the temperature sensor.

3. If the warning did not flash on the console, but still the coolant overflowed when the engine was in normal operating temperature, then check where the leak was from and get it sorted. If it is from the coolant cap, then get it checked. The coolant level on cold engine should be a few mm above "min". When the engine get's hot and the coolant expands, then the coolant level should be near "max" in the window.

Do let us know what the issue is.

And this happened yesterday. Bad bad day !!! There is no air leakage. I am thinking of getting it replaced. Will claim insurance.

Has anybody gone through the same thing ? How much will I have to pay. I have a zero dep policy. The workshop says I will have to pay around 500 to 600 bucks.

In your previous post, above, you said you needed help with selling your bike and now you are saying that you do not wish to sell. If there is a joke hidden there somewhere, I did not get it.

Those of us, who are regular to this thread, are finding it a bit difficult to help you. And I am guessing you are desirous of the help of your brethren, rather than just treating the thread as a crib register.
Please make up your mind on what is the objective you wish to achieve, so that we are able to progress in some direction (constructively), rather than going around in circles.

If you didn't get the drift of my post, let me enlighten you. I do not need your condescending comments on how I wish to ride my bike. As far as I know, my bike has some problems which has not been sorted, and I definitely need the help of all the rider brothers here, to help me out. Maybe I do not ride my bike the way some of us here, rides. But I do know what I have bought and how to get my moneys worth.

Not saying that you should not attempt to get the rim replaced in insurance if you can, but I know many guys who are happily riding (and bashing) their Dukes with similar grade bends. Basically the rims are so easily bent that most guys have already replaced them once or even twice. After that, you thank the motorcycle God for small mercies if you find the air still being retained, and ride on till you can regardless. Assuming you are not losing air, and assuming the wheel is still running true. Preferring to put off the replacement for as long as you can or till you are due to a big ride where you would not risk such a thing.

Doc the reason why I want to replace the rim is because the front is wobbling after 80 kmph. I thought of getting the rim repaired too but then I would have a mental block and would not be satisfied. I guess in a few months I would change to spokes if I can.

Then its a no brainer. You have to change it.

Most experts in such cases (provided the wheel is not cracked, otherwise damaged, is running true, and holding air) recommend not to fiddle with the rim and leave it as it is. Yes, a wooden block and a sharp single blow of a hammer is the preferred "technique" by many tyre wallas and results depend on (1) Luck, and (2) Experience and skill of the tyre walla. But the danger in trying this is that a rim that is at least structurally sound, no wobbling, and is holding air, after the hammer whack, can sometimes get reconfigured in a way that the rim lip-tyre bead seal gets broken, and then you have a useless wheel which will not hold air. Remember, to get that sort of bend, you have to whack the wheel pretty hard and at the right angle. Its then a game of chance if you are going to again whack the exact same spot again. Don't know what the odds are, but they would be in the rider's favor.

That said, besides the cost of replacement, and the hassle, one big downside is that unlike your original set of wheels which are perfetly balanced with weights from the factory, these new rims are not, and I at least have not been able to find anyone in Pune who can balance a motorcycle wheel. Would be thrilled is someone knows of one.

So, how did this happen? Pot hole?