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-   -   The KTM Duke 390 Ownership Experience Thread (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorbikes/138082-ktm-duke-390-ownership-experience-thread-187.html)

Except for first, this^^ is exactly how it is on my motorcycle. I've not adjusted anything in order to achieve this.

A clunky shift is rare.

The shifts on my bike are not clunky. I believe the shifts are highly dependent on precise clutch and chain adjustment along with the rev matches. Even the neutral to one on my bike does not create a racket. Ride my bike to believe it. :)

EDIT: I do not let the guys touch the chain during service. I adjust, clean and lubricate it myself. 8.5K on the odo and the chain and sprocket look and feel great!

So nothing has been changed on the clutch or gearbox (bearing, bush,etc.) since say September onwards last year to the bikes which are coming out this year (as recent as April-May)?

And its more a piece to piece anomaly (the smooth shifters) with clunky being the norm?

I know that no amount of clutch and chain adjustment made a difference to the test bikes. Yes with time and kms you did learn to adjust your riding and shifting to the sweet (almost no clunk) spot by a combination of revs, clutch control and lever loading and shift timing/action.

Absolutely yes. The shift gets clunkier with time and gets subdued when chain is adjusted. But is adjusting the slack every 150-200 kms the norm? I beg to differ on this. I have seen some people have installed a bobbin on the slack side to overcome the issue. Also it is not so easy to adjust the chain. It needs good skills or you end up ruining the sprocket.

Anyone replaced the first set of factory fitted Metzelers yet? What kind of life are we talking about on these before a change is due?

I heard guys in Delhi are sourcing these somehow at 14K for a set. What is Bajaj selling them for?

@ebonho

A friend shifted to Michelin Pilot Street and he seems to be happy with them. The rear one costed him approx 5600/- if i am not wrong.

Thanks bro. But head to head, the Metzelers are way better (I've ridden a Ninja with the Michelins). So wanted to know how long they're lasting riders in real life riding usage.

A good friend of mine got his rear one replaced at 16k. He is now at 28k with another 3k worth remaining. He said the set costs 16k odd in SVC. Mine had run for 7k with about 40% wear on the rear before I switched to the ceat vertigo. Need to go back to metz.

So around 15K odd kms? That's quite good actually. I was thinking more like 10K to max 12K kms.

That's a big difference, so would love it if others could corroborate as well.

Its the difference between 1.5 bucks vs 1 buck per kilometer running cost. Or 500 bucks for every 1000 kms you ride the bike.

Now that's a first. It is rare for neutral to 1 to go smooth on my motorcycle. When it does, I smile.

I can surely use some guidance on how to adjust the chain. I have never attempted it myself on the KTM but I now want to. What I need to buy is a paddock stand. The KTM one is super expensive.

For the first time in a little over 10 months with the bike, I visited the service centre (Kasturba road) to get a smashed mirror replaced, chain tightened and lubricated. I highlight "first time" as I don't usually go to the service centre between service intervals for small jobs. They did a good job with the chain adjustment. With the bike raised on the paddock stand, the first thing that was done was rotate the wheel by hand and brush the chain. The brushing was done at the point where the chain is on the rear sprocket. After that, cranked the bike, engaged first, let the clutch out slowly and the wheel starts rotating. Spray away. Five minute job. 3M chain lubricant was used.

I ride home which is about 6km, rear rim covered in chain lubricant.

With regard to tire wear, I hit 5 digits on the odo on Sep 1, exactly 10 months from purchase. There appears to be plenty of tread left and I feel it may go beyond 16k on the odo. I have been riding on good roads for the most part. This probably explains the minimal wear. My riding style is not aggressive too. This can make a big difference. My idea of ripping and riding is 5-6k on the tachometer, cause you are already flying past everything else with this limited throttle input. Going beyond this engine speed in the city cycle is next to impossible.

Did you start riding back within a short time of the chain being lubed? If that is the case then that could be the cause. The ideal way I have seen on you tube and read about is to first ride the bike for a few kms so that the chain is hot, clean and lube the chain, leave it standing for at least 30-45 mins before riding away. Another tip is to also spray the lube on the inside of the chain and not on the outside. This will prevent a lot of the lube flinging onto the rims.

The problem with the SVC is that they will keep this chain clean and lube for the last after they finish all other jobs where as they have to first do this so that it gives us the buffer of at least the time they will take to complete the other jobs.

Heard another case of cracked rim on the wts app group for 390

This guy was coming back from Jaipur to Delhi and said his rim cracked "right at the center"

Have been hearing comments like the new bikes have a different composition of alloy for the wheels. Any truth to this?

You don't really need the paddock for chain adjustment. The steps given in the manual is pretty much detailed and easy.


The only one report I came across on this is from motorbeam! I have never trusted those guys and I won't. Ever.

There is a lub from tribocor which is quite dry with molybdenum di sulphide. This does not splash out onto the rims. Dont know the name though. But quite difficult to find. There is one more which is oily which splashes. It is called as chain lube spray tc40.

Heck, i use petrol or kerosene to clean up the dirt from the chain. I remove the fron chain cover and clean up the entire part which usually comes out to be the dirtiest of all.

Put everything back and spray the chain lube. I used to do this once every month. No specific reason but more so that i feel guilty if i give more attention to the car or the bull or the ktm. So everyone gets the same treatment so i dont feel bad when i take them out.

There is an alternative to paddle stand. Just use you car jack to raise the rear wheel a little bit. The bike almost acts like a bike on center stand and you can clean up the chain etc.