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-   -   The KTM Duke 390 Ownership Experience Thread (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorbikes/138082-ktm-duke-390-ownership-experience-thread-105.html)

Are the 200's handlebar end closed to be able to drill the thread to it? In Bullets the handle bars which did'nt accommodate bar-end weights used to be open on the ends.

Its the grips what I meant. They can be spliced using a blade or something. I'm guessing that the handlebar would have hollow ends for the bar ends to fit in. No thread is needed for the fazer bar ends to fit. They will just fit into the handle bar and when one tightens the screw, the thing just grows in size within the bar to make it fit snugly.

P.S. I haven't seen one fitted first hand, but whatever that person said made sense.

Doc it should be a direct fit. I had the Orange powerpart knuckleguards on my old Duke200 with no drilling or anything. There is a small provision to add knuckleguards/bar ends on the 200 handle IIRC.

My bike has now clocked 1300 Kms and I think engine vibrations have reduced quite a bit and overall bike runs much smoother. Either that or I have gotten used to it i guess :)

My bike is just 275 kms old and I am experiencing a sticky gear shift. This is apparent when downshifting where I have to wait for an extra second or work the clutch for the shifter to spring back. Happens when I have to downshift in quick succession. Any one else had this issue and if so any pointers to a resolution?

My thoughts exactly after my brief firtation with the idea of a screen.

Its a naked bike, and should be ridden and enjoyed as one.

Want wind protection, buy a faired sports tourer.

Or a car. :uncontrol

Don't know about the 390, but the hdroformed alloy handle of the 200 cost approximately 800 bucks almost a year ago.

The 200's handle does not have pre-threaded internals at the bar ends. Simply making a hole in the grip is not going to cut it.

I must check with the Sai Service guys on this then. Would be nice to add the handguards. The 600 buck ones ofcourse. Would protect the levers as well.

I can raise my hand here. I did find the same problem (still do) but kind of ignored it. I guess all of these are initial hiccups, until all the mechanics and parts fall into the groove like they are meant to be.

Same issue with my bike. My bike is about 3700 Kms on odo and this issue still persists. Why I had the problem earlier today too. I down shift from 6th to 2nd rapidly with a single clutch and rapid gear shifts in one go and during such downshifting the gear shift sticks to the base and I am lost for a moment as my toe does not get a hang of the gear shift and I have to sort of dig it up and continue with the next downshift. I have complained this issue during the first service but nothing was done. But this sticky gear shift has thrown me off guard during shift down / overtaking in traffic. The issue persists to this day.

Should I change the gear oil or something? anyways I am planning to change the engine oil ( shifting from 10W40 to 10W50) very soon as my engine is sounding groggier by the day, and heating some what more than I used to normally feel.

I too have observed this on my bike while quick downshifting a couple of gears together! And I am clueless about the problem. But this does not occur always for me as I mostly downshift 1 gear at a time with clutch release.

Both of you are doing it wrong. This is not a problem with the bike, any bike for that matter, please do not try to shift from top to bottom in a single clutch hold, it not only does not work in majority of the bikes, it is a bad practice and harmful for the gear box. The best way to quickly downshift through all the gears is to shift down, let go clutch, again shift down, let go clutch, all this in quick succession. This will not only slow down your bike faster due to engine braking but also protect the gears. If you are going to run on free clutch while downshift you actually end up going faster than slowing down due to zero engine braking. Please avoid this bad practice.

Always keep the right gear engaged for the speed you are doing even when slowing down. If it is an unavoidable emergency situation where you have to come to a complete stop immediately, please do not touch the clutch untill the last moment when you feel the engine is dying. then once you have stopped, shift down and move. Again, running on free clutch will just make you go faster instead of slowing down. Learn to use engine braking alongside your normal brakes.

Leaving aside for the time being the issue of engine braking, and concentrating on the health of the gearbox,

Why?

Regards
Sutripta

I think it's only common sense that engaging the wrong gear at a speed that it's not supposed to be engaged in will cause unwanted wear over a period of time.

You are, of course, right that one should not try to shift down by more than one gear in a single clutch pull. But it is interesting that the Duke enforces that good practice. My RE Thunderbird allows me to shift down all the way if I just hold down the clutch --- but if I do that without simultaneously using the brakes, it would cause a rear-wheel skid. Engine braking on the Duke is much more effective than in the Thunderbird, so it is good that this added safety feature is built in.:thumbs up

That sense eludes me! :)
What is 'wrong speed', and most importantly, how does it harm the gearbox. Remember the discussion is on not releasing the clutch in between multiple downshifts, and its harmful effects on the gearbox, not on riding techniques.

Regards
Sutripta

Because without the benefit of slipper clutch, unless you reduce your speed considerably and to the right extent by just braking (as engine braking is not in action), when you do release the clutch after slipping down the multiple gears, your back tyre is liable to skid badly and the stress is going to be transmitted directly to your transmission - all the way from your rear sprocket teeth to the internal cogs of the gearbox.

The only way to prevent this is slow to a very slow speed empirically and then power up, which then negates the ability to stay in the power band and exit the corner or take off rapidly - something one would think you would likely be intending if you are dropping so many gears at once. Of course if you are riding sedately then this is the method normally employed by most uncles (age wise I'm one too - but I mean riding uncles here lol:) in traffic commuting when they want to control their speed.

This always also the risk of the speeds not coming down quickly enough (sans engine braking) and you either collide, go off, or over compensate on the brakes and skid.

Bad practice all around frankly.