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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrus_the_virus
(Post 3314252)
Finally Got my MRA V-FLOW C Type Windscreen.
Damages: Rs.9000/- shipped
Detailed Review: Coming Soon. |
My god , its so perfect . You better get review fast .I was thinking to get the same . I might need one now .Congrats its lovely . Where did you source one ?
Also could you tell us ,how thick the screen is ?
Cyrus , enable the option to send emails in your settings ,I cannot PM or send email .
What do you know - I logged into upload pics on the MRA V-Flow Z type!
Good show, bro.
This looks better than the Z type that I got even though that is advertised for the Duke 125.
I took it for a spin this morning - hit 140 a couple of times. The screen works as advertised - the wind blast is completely controlled. I think the noise is slightly higher due to the airflow being directed at the helmet but that is just a matter of adjustment.
Only caveat - the bottom end should have at least 1 cm clearance from the nearest anything. Since the setup is cantilevered, bumps move the screen quite a bit. Creates a noise. BTW, doc's problem of weird reflections at night might also be there in this windscreen. Looks like one can tuck oneself behind it if pushing for speed.
The windscreen looks right size. The top portion is angled upwards and extends just right above the mirrors. This will deflect wind right close to the visor for a 6 foot but well on top for shorter folks. Looks not bad actually. 9k is steep but I am sure this is effective functionally from just the size and shape.
Those who are looking for paddock stand can try the following. I am using this to clean and lube as well adjust chain.
Don't worry about the pressure on the swing arm for we are merely tilting and not holding the entire weight.
Raise it say for 2-3 cms for wheel to rotate and the weight is on side stand, front wheel and a tiny bit on the make away stand.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrus_the_virus
(Post 3314252)
Finally Got my MRA V-FLOW C Type Windscreen.
Damages: Rs.9000/- shipped
Detailed Review: Coming Soon.
First Impressions: Suits and compliments the bike very well if you see it in person. Does what it promises to do although installation can be a pain in the you know where :D
Pics Attached |
That is a real beauty. let us have the review soon. I think for installation you should have taken it to your mechanic rather than DIY ( even though step-by-step installation manual is provided). So where did you buy this from and how many days did it take to reach you from the day you ordered it? I believe there is also a smoked grey screen apart from the clear screen that you have installed. Is there any reason that you went for the clear screen instead of the tinted grey screen?
My 2 cents on the windscreen... Fazer one looked right to me and got it fitted on the weekend :)
Looks great with some vinyl fixes... I was not ready to pay anything > 1500 for any type of windscreen, hence this quickfix solution.
Cost me 215 only, That's it !!!
Tried some speeds and this hold well without any rattles or vibes at 100kmph, will post after I try it at higher speeds.
More pics here :
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...uke-390-a.html
Got the roots horn fitted along with a relay. Sounds loud. Actually a Bit too loud for my taste, but i will continue to use it purely for safety purpose, as the stock one is really meek.
Also spent half of the sunday trying to fix the fazer windshield recommended as cost effective but effective solution. Man, i thought it would be a piece of cake to fix it but wasent the case, atleast in my case.
Opened the number plate and metal frame and the OEM screen. Used the metal frame as a guide to mark hole position on the windshield. I wanted to reduce the cantilever force, so marked the holes a little higher. First used a heated bbq skewer to make holes. later, used a hand-drill 8mm bit to widen the holes. Used rubber washers (actually used for water taps) to sandwich the screen between metal plate and bike.
Now the trouble started. Actually the hole positions were pretty perfect, but while trying to fix the damn thing on the bike, i managed to push-in the rubber rivet type screw into the head lamp assembly. tried to retrieve it but could not. Did not have a choice but to open the headlamp assembly. Managed to open the headlamp assembly, retrieved the rubber type screw, and fixed the headlamp assembly with just the two top screws to secure it in position. tried a few times to fix the screen along with the metal frame, but each time one or the other rubber type screw would fall back into the head lamp assembly. After a bit of sweating, call a friend to hold the headlamp assembly (dis-assembled from the bike), and then managed to easily fit the screen. Not fitting the headlamp assembly was also a tough job. the upper allen bolts and side palstic rivets are easy, but the two bolts under the headlamp were tough to fix back. After sweating a bit more, managed to put everything back successfully. the screen feels sturdy enough. Went for a test spin ( till about 100kmph), and did not really find much difference. the difference might be more pronounced at higher speeds. I wanted to remove the wind screen to grind and buff the bottom part, which covers the head light top, but the fear of opening and closing the headlamp assembly GAIN discouraged. Also that entire exercise was very tiring. So will leave the grinding and buffing to another sunday. some not so clear pics from my mob cam.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nasirkaka
(Post 3314944)
Got the roots horn fitted along with a relay. Sounds loud. Actually a Bit too loud for my taste, but i will continue to use it purely for safety purpose, as the stock one is really meek. |
Is the lower part of windshield hampering with the headlight's beam? The curve on the higher part of the windshield is at an different angle from the natural bend of the Duke's fittings.
I had to fix it lower for a better fix.
Also can you please post a few pics of the horn setup and the exact model no. Me is thinking to change the horn too.
Quote:
Is the lower part of windshield hampering with the headlight's beam?
|
While riding last NIGHT, did not find anything noticeably different in the beam, but i guess it may be affecting a bit. I was planning to grind the lower part of the screen, so that it does not interfare atall with the headlamp.
Quote:
The curve on the higher part of the windshield is at an different angle from the natural bend of the Duke's fittings.
|
Its not a perfect match, but i did not find the difference in curve very stark. I guess the rubber washers would have helped a bit adjusting. Also the screen being made of Poly carbonate, has some flexibility, and re-adjusts itself, slightly, when all the 4 screws are tightened.
Quote:
I had to fix it lower for a better fix.
|
Initially i wanted to do the same, as most of the people have done, But i wanted the metal braket for the number plate, and the metal bracket also helps sandwich the screen in between providing additional strength. to fix the metal i had to make 4 new holes, and i did not want those holes to ve very clode the the OEM holes, as there could be chances of crack development under additional stress. So had to position the new set of holes slightly higher. Also, i wanted to reduce the cantilever force at higher speeds, as there is no support from the handle bar to the top part of windshield.
Quote:
Also can you please post a few pics of the horn setup and the exact model no. Me is thinking to change the horn too. __________________
|
Shall try and take some pics and share. so far have secured the relay to the trellis frame with a cable tie on LHS, under the tank cover.
Quote:
Originally Posted by black12rr
(Post 3314339)
My god , its so perfect . You better get review fast .I was thinking to get the same . I might need one now .Congrats its lovely . Where did you source one ?
Also could you tell us ,how thick the screen is ?
Cyrus , enable the option to send emails in your settings ,I cannot PM or send email . |
Quote:
Originally Posted by sridhu
(Post 3314341)
This looks better than the Z type that I got even though that is advertised for the Duke 125.
I took it for a spin this morning - hit 140 a couple of times. The screen works as advertised - the wind blast is completely controlled. I think the noise is slightly higher due to the airflow being directed at the helmet but that is just a matter of adjustment.
Only caveat - the bottom end should have at least 1 cm clearance from the nearest anything. Since the setup is cantilevered, bumps move the screen quite a bit. Creates a noise. BTW, doc's problem of weird reflections at night might also be there in this windscreen. Looks like one can tuck oneself behind it if pushing for speed. |
@black12rr, yes it looks like a perfect fit and i went with the c type after doing some MSPaint work with the different types and found the c type to be more suitable to the design of the bike. And I went with clear due to 3 reasons: 1.> I already use a tinted visor and having another tint would make the road just in view of the visor invisible. I did not want that. sometimes the last centimeter of visual before you hit a pothole helps in navigating it better. and 2.> a complete shade/tint didn't appear to suit the overall design/paint job of the bike like the streaks of black on the white tank sticker. Overall I am very satisfied with the way it looks on there. 3.> dark shade has too much reflection of the console lights and is distracting sometimes. Clear does reflect but much much less and hence less distracting.
To answer other questions. Since this will be a permenant fixture on my bike, I plant to use some silicon sealeant for the point where the bottom part of the screen touches the front of the bike, this will help in minimize vibration.
I am 6 Ft tall and the intial test runs are proving a little annoying. Although there is no more wind hitting the chest, due to the excess amount of air it pushes towards the helmet and becuase it is not clean air as in the screen causes air turbulance at the edge of it. This inturn is causing a lot of turbulent air to hit the helmet causing the helmet to shake/vibrate violently after 110Kmph. I am pretty sure this can be fixed by some adjustment of the height/angle but I have a feeling that some air has to pass below the helmet to avoid this turbulance. It's like riding behind another vehicle, the air stream is not clean. I'm thinking if I should get the spoiler which goes on top of the screen for a permenant fix.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Added_flavor
(Post 3312390)
agree: I have said this before and saying again. Adjusting the clutch cable play and keeping it at ~ 2mm as per manual does wonders to gear shifts. The only grouse is this has to be done quite frequently, every ~300 km in my case - with regular city riding and lot of clutch usage.
EDIT: So what I do is use my second Trip meter to monitor the distance ridden b/w every iteration of chain/clutch cable adjustment and lubrication. Got a paddock stand recently. |
Added_flavor: Doesnt putting the weight on the swing arms stress it out too much? Most paddock stands put the weight on the sliders on the rear hub.
Do you feel it is an issue?
Also, can you please pm me Saqib's phone #? The fb link says the content is no longer available.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sridhu
(Post 3315337)
Added_flavor: Doesnt putting the weight on the swing arms stress it out too much? Most paddock stands put the weight on the sliders on the rear hub.
Do you feel it is an issue?
Also, can you please pm me Saqib's phone #? The fb link says the content is no longer available. |
Well I have seen the guys in the ASC do the same. Also what I feel is, the rear is quite light (it's relatively easy to lift the bike) and the weight is evenly distributed on both the sides of the swing arm when you lift it with a paddock stand and hence shouldn't cause any damage to the swing arm! Also, the stand has decently thick rubber pads at the mounting point.
Anyway, I wouldn't be happy if it did cause a damage/bend to the swing arm! It shouldn't be so fragile IMO!
EDIT: As I said, I did not source it from Saqib. I guess PMing him on FB should help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sridhu
(Post 3315337)
Added_flavor: Doesnt putting the weight on the swing arms stress it out too much? Most paddock stands put the weight on the sliders on the rear hub.
Do you feel it is an issue?. |
It doesn't. I used to lube the chain on my bike this way :D Works all the time.
Even when I had an R15, I would place a few bricks under the suspension linkage and prop the rear up after which lube the chain.
applied a basic screen guard for the display this morning. 5 mins job. Cost of screen guard was 100 rs. a bit of cutting is required to approximately match the shape of the display.
Also some pics of the Horn and relay location.
YES, i know the green wire kills it. Will change to black as soon as i can.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nasirkaka
(Post 3315965)
applied a basic screen guard for the display this morning. 5 mins job. Cost of screen guard was 100 rs. a bit of cutting is required to approximately match the shape of the display. |
Do you think screen guard will work outdoors ? I think it might develop bubbles very fast. It is not designed for direct prolonged exposure to sunlight. I may be wrong though. Please update the condition of the film after a few days.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nasirkaka
(Post 3314944)
Also spent half of the sunday trying to fix the fazer windshield recommended as cost effective but effective solution. Man, i thought it would be a piece of cake to fix it but wasent the case, atleast in my case. |
I agree that fitting the windscreen is def. not a piece of cake. I spent half my sunday too and faced the same issue as you did. Finally I gave up and went to the service center guys and they did a pretty good job.
My question to you is, are you planning to get the bar supports for the windscreen too?
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