[a4anurag]

UPDATE TIME:

Collected all the parts from Mody motors and went to my FNG to get them fit plus give the bike a service.

Works carried out:

1. New panels that were bought were fixed;
2. Amaron 9Ah battery installed (AP-BTX9R);
3. New Battery box installed;
4. Changed the oil - Motul 7100 (20W50);
5. Changed the air filter (OEM);
6. Changed the rubber boots located in the rear wheel hub;
7. Cleaned the chain and sprockets;
8. Cleaned the spark plug;
9. Cleaned the brakes;
10. Oil and greased all required areas.

Now I am happy to say that the bike is back in form except for a few things.

Niggles / Works still pending:

• Need to clean the carb;
• Have to replace the brake fluid (Couldn't do due to lack of time);
• Have to check for the reasons for notchy gear shifts (Speacially "N to 1" and "1 to 2", rest all OK).
• Excessive heating;
• Doesn't like going above 80 kmph, vibrates and feels strained.

A few pictures:

The parts bill:


Amaron Beta series - 9Ah (AP-BTX9R):


Panels stripped for water wash:


Awaiting turn for water wash:


Amaron sitting in it's new cage:


9Ah fit in the location:


New Battery cover (A+B):


New Rear cowl (Right side):


RHS View:


New Rear cowl (Left side):


New Air filter cover (A+B):


New Tail panel piece:

[rakesh_r]

Great going,bike looks good as new.But as far as I know Honda's were never comfortable with 20W50 grade oil.The best bet would be 20W40. With 20W50 I found the bike struggling to go past 80-90 and used to sound very rough with vibration.Observed this in Unicorn and ZMA.Motul 7100 i found to be extra thick,best recomended for RE and Pulsars.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by rakesh_r

Great going,bike looks good as new.But as far as I know Honda's were never comfortable with 20W50 grade oil.The best bet would be 20W40. With 20W50 I found the bike struggling to go past 80-90 and used to sound very rough with vibration.Observed this in Unicorn and ZMA. Motul 7100 i found to be extra thick,best recomended for RE and Pulsars.

I agree that the bike isn't happy with the 'W50' oil. But I have been having this oil can since 2 months. Wanted to use and get rid of it. First thought of exchanging the can with a 20W40 oil but the oil dealer didn't agree. Matter of 2000 kms!

[The Pain]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

UPDATE TIME:


New Air filter cover (A+B):
Attachment 1373483

The new panels look good. Arent the grey sections of the stickers on the A+B and tail section supposed to align though?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by The Pain

The new panels look good. Arent the grey sections of the stickers on the A+B and tail section supposed to align though?

The panels are of ZMR and not R it seems hence the mismatch in sticker alignment.

Not particular about it as it took me ages and a million calls to Hero dealership to source these parts. Will see if I can get the sticker set separately to replace it and moreover I hate the "Hero" sticker at the panel above the tail lamp. I wanted it to be "Hero Honda" but that type isn't available any more.

[a4anurag]

Replacement of the OEM Tail lamps to LED's.

Got them from a friend who was selling his car and moving off to the US. He has these installed in his car so took the LED's and tried it in my bike.

Specifications of the LED's (Shared by my friend):

Voltage: 12V
Power: 4W
LED chip Q'ty: 13 (12 around (5630 SMD) & 1 forward (CREE XPE LED))

A few pictures:

LED bulbs vs OEM:


LED's:


Close up of the LED:


LED's in place:


Test shot:


LED vs OEM - 5W:


LED vs OEM - 21W:


Shall click night shots of the LED's and post them.

[motionfreak]

Bike looks awesome

just one more thing you can do
get the new clear lenses for front indicators, (if inexpensive, get the rear ones too)
the bike looks fresher, you know what I mean.

I had changed the indicator bulbs to Maruti 800 brake light/ zma's brake lights.
one filament, tail light, is connected to the battery via a switch and ignition and the brake light filament is to the flasher unit as indicator.
looks soooper cool at night.
this was before I removed the fairing and installed the P220 projector headlamp, to make the bike offroad friendly.

Also....
1st gen, earlier, zmas used to come with golden heat shield for the end can. this chrome one looks cheap.
I had mine black powder coated for 500/-. black colour used to highlight the golden endcan and it'll suit your bikes colour too. just make sure the quality of the powder coating is top notch (avoid glossy oil paint... looks cheap)


try that

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by motionfreak

just one more thing you can do
get the new clear lenses for front indicators, (if inexpensive, get the rear ones too) the bike looks fresher, you know what I mean.

1st gen, earlier, zmas used to come with golden heat shield for the end can. this chrome one looks cheap.

Shall think over and try sourcing parts.

Sourcing these panels itself were a pain. So I'll have start coaxing them from now one to get the heat shield and clear lens indicators.

[motionfreak]

heat shield, you already have it. give it to a guy who does the powder coating to iron beds, door grills, chairs etc.
Find a welder and he'll guide you to the local powder coating shop.

For the indicators, I'll buy them here, in Mumbai, and ship them to you.
tell me what you need and i'll look for them here.

PS : and sorry I didn't offer to help you before.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by motionfreak

For the indicators, I'll buy them here, in Mumbai, and ship them to you.
tell me what you need and i'll look for them here.

Yesterday when I had some spare time, tried opening the front dome and indicators to clean them and also change the rear right bulb that has fused.

Was shocked to see the state of the rear indicators as they were rusted to the core and so hard that it wasn't even coming out even after using pressure.

Today morning visited Hero motors stockist to get the parts but they were out of stock and would be arriving by Wednesday or Thursday.

I have ordered the following:

Clear lens ones:

• Front outer lens - Left = ₹ 105
• Front outer lens - Right = ₹ 105
  
• Rear whole set - Left = ₹ 265
• Rear whole set - Right = ₹ 265
  
• Orange indicator bulbs: ₹ 30 x 4 = ₹ 120

Total expected damage: ₹ 860 - 1000.

Shall update the thread when I receive them.

[motionfreak]

At the rear, I have installed Pulsar's clear lens indicators. they can be bent in any angle without breaking the stem.
karizma's indicators have no give at all and they are too large. My dad had broken two of them while getting onto the pillion seat. This is when I decided to install to Pulsar's indicators.
no damage till date.

about Rs. 100 each

[a4anurag]

Today morning visited Hero motors stockist to get the parts but they were out of stock and would be arriving by Wednesday or Thursday.

Total expected damage: ₹ 860 - 1000.

Shall update the thread when I receive them.

Yesterday visited the stockist and got the indicators from them. Total damage was 900 bucks overall.

Here is the break-up of the same:



I fit the indicators myself rather going to a mechanic. A few pictures of the same. Apologies for the low quality shots, shall click a better set and upload by evening.

A comparison between the Orange lens v/s New Clear lens:


Front view:


Rear View:


Indicators on work:

Originally Posted by motionfreak

For the indicators, I'll buy them here, in Mumbai, and ship them to you.
tell me what you need and i'll look for them here.

Thanks for the suggestion buddy. Looks good with clear lens indicators too.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A few points:

• Have reverted to stock pilot lamps yesterday during the indicator swap.

>>> There are a few issues with the bike as of now pending resolution:

• Gear shifting is notchy specially in 'N' to '1st' and '1st' to 'N'. Need to hit it slightly harder for the gear to slot in;
  
  
• Excessive heating is felt after a 8-10 kms ride with speeds between 60-80 kmph;
  
  
• Post 80 kmph the bike struggles to cross and vibrates like an RTC bus.
  
  
• Rusting noticed on 1) Fuel tank gromet where the front fairing sits; 2) Silencer near the "premium sports cowl" and 3) Mild damage due to battery acid leak on the right-side of the swing-arm.

I am missing the smoothness and revv-free nature of the engine. Trying my best to get it back to its glory. Scouting a worthy mechanic who knows what he is doing and able to sort the issues.

EDIT:

With the monsoons approaching, I didn't want the bike to get drenched and enhance rust further so got the bike a cover. Lets see how it works in the rainy season.

[rakesh_r]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

>>> There are a few issues with the bike as of now pending resolution:

• Gear shifting is notchy specially in 'N' to '1st' and '1st' to 'N'. Need to hit it slightly harder for the gear to slot in;
  
  
• Excessive heating is felt after a 8-10 kms ride with speeds between 60-80 kmph;
  
  
• Post 80 kmph the bike struggles to cross and vibrates like an RTC bus.
  

I am missing the smoothness and revv-free nature of the engine. Trying my best to get it back to its glory. Scouting a worthy mechanic who knows what he is doing and able to sort the issues.

I recall you using 20w50 grade oil.Switch to a xxw40 grade oil and I am sure majority of the problems should be solved,especially the free revving part. With 20w50 oil you will feel the bike not going past 80-90.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by rakesh_r

I recall you using 20w50 grade oil.Switch to a xxw40 grade oil and I am sure majority of the problems should be solved,especially the free revving part. With 20w50 oil you will feel the bike not going past 80-90.

With the Motul 20W40 oil the feeling was the same.

[a4anurag]

An UPDATE:

After a lot of thinking, changed the following on my bike:

• Clutch plates - 36K010S - ₹1455;
• Steel plates - 22321KE8000S - ₹180;
• Pressure plate - 22355KPK900S - ₹180;
• Gasket;
• Kick-rod oil-seal;
• AFR screw kit - 16016KRY902S - ₹98;
• Motul 3000 - 20W40 - ₹295.

I can now say that the bike is back to normal now. No complaints in drive ability or acceleration.

Next change is the rubber packaging that are inserted between the panels and metal parts to avoid vibrations.

Thanks to interc00led for the help by his known mechanics and taking time from his schedule to help my bike get back in shape.

Things pending to do:

1. Change the rubber packaging - not sure if I will get them;
2. Change the vacuum tube - it is cut, have made a temporary arrangement;
3. Open the right side foot rest and get it repainted. Have surface rusting;
4. DIY - Polish the bike (Have order the required stuff online).

A few pictures:















Old Steel plates:






Happy to see the bike back in shape. Hope to keep it gleaming like this for long.