[aargee]

Originally Posted by Ratan Prabhu

I seriously hope it is just the rectifier and nothing else. Because a rectifier would cost me 2.5k and is available in stock. Stator or short circuit in wiring would cost me a lot more.

On the other hand, I seriously think it should be a loose contact in the fuse carrier due to accumulation of dust.

If you need a second opinion, please do not hesitate to PM me, I'll help connect you with local dealership who should be able to make progress, even if they don't resolve over the phone.

[Ratan Prabhu]

Originally Posted by aargee

On the other hand, I seriously think it should be a loose contact in the fuse carrier due to accumulation of dust.

If you need a second opinion, please do not hesitate to PM me, I'll help connect you with local dealership who should be able to make progress, even if they don't resolve over the phone.

Thanks RG, my nearest ASC (Sai Point Honda) has said they will let me know about the issue by 5pm today (Monday). In case something seems way off, I will PM you.

[Sman999]

Originally Posted by Ratan Prabhu

PS - I don't think it is a short circuit. Because in that case, absolutely no electronic components would have worked right ? For a minute or so, everything works fine. Then all the ABS light blinking and console going blank thing starts.

I seriously hope it is just the rectifier and nothing else. Because a rectifier would cost me 2.5k and is available in stock. Stator or short circuit in wiring would cost me a lot more.

My speedo console's light went kaput and it would randomly flicker and sometimes no light through out the journey. What i did was, removed the console and manually soldered the speedo with new LED's.

If ABS is working even after the ABS light blinking then i doubt it might be just your speedo unit acting randomly. If nothing makes sense after all the checks then at last dismantle the speedo and check for any water damage.

Though, I cant make any sense as why the horn would sound louder.

[Ratan Prabhu]

Originally Posted by Sman999

My speedo console's light went kaput and it would randomly flicker and sometimes no light through out the journey. What i did was, removed the console and manually soldered the speedo with new LED's.

If ABS is working even after the ABS light blinking then i doubt it might be just your speedo unit acting randomly. If nothing makes sense after all the checks then at last dismantle the speedo and check for any water damage.

Though, I cant make any sense as why the horn would sound louder.

ABS doesn't work when the ABS light is blinking (I tried braking hard on a safe patch of road and the wheels lock). It works fine when it is not blinking (initial few mins of riding the bike)

The issue is not with the console light. Console goes blank (console light is present when I turn on the headlights but the information is blank. No speedo, no time, no temp or fuel bar, all blank)

Apparently it is an electrical issue where the rectifier is over charging (this is what the ASC person said on a phone call few mins back) and they are checking for any other issue as well.

Now this is due to a faulty rectifier or a faulty stator coil I do not know.

Battery life and voltage along with fuses were checked and all are fine (battery was removed and tested with a specific machine they have and the voltage and life came out to be absolutely normal). None of the fuses were blown; nor had any burnt marks or excess dirt.

Still awaiting the ASC to tell me what's the main culprit of this "rectifier overcharging" issue.

++ The horn sounding louder than usual is probably due to excess current being passed due to same rectifier overcharging issue which the ASC said.

[joednazareth]

Originally Posted by Ratan Prabhu

The issue is not with the console light. Console goes blank (console light is present when I turn on the headlights but the information is blank. No speedo, no time, no temp or fuel bar, all blank)

Apparently it is an electrical issue where the rectifier is over charging (this is what the ASC person said on a phone call few mins back) and they are checking for any other issue as well.

Now this is due to a faulty rectifier or a faulty stator coil I do not know.

++ The horn sounding louder than usual is probably due to excess current being passed due to same rectifier overcharging issue which the ASC said.

Good observation:
The Magneto AC output will rise linearly with engine RPM
Rectifier output should remain constant 14.7~ 15V DC constant.
Regulator in enclosed in the same RR unit.
All devices after the RR unit are DC, may be Lighting circuit is both AC and DC.
Any Mods to the Electrical circuit, could have damaged the DC source.
Failure in the DC source will happen through the weakest device in the circuit.
A direct HOT wire line can be traced to the instrument console, unlock the in coming HOT + pin from the connector for the instrument console. Now connect a +line that comes after a battery low amp fuse to the input of the instrument console.
You should at least get back light and LEDs initializing sequence.

All the very best.

[Ratan Prabhu]

Originally Posted by joednazareth

Good observation:
The Magneto AC output will rise linearly with engine RPM
Rectifier output should remain constant 14.7~ 15V DC constant.

Correct. The rectifier should rectify the excess power from the magnet coil and only transfer 14-15V DC to the battery. Instead it was giving out 17V at idle RPM and was going to 18-19V at higher RPM (thankfully the high voltage didn't mess my electricals/console/etc as I didn't ride much after this issue came)

UPDATE :
The issue is with faulty rectifier.
I went to the ASC and was present there today during the diagnosis. They removed a rectifier from another CBR and fitted it in mine and started the bike. There was no ABS blinking on console going blank issue at any RPM. Used the voltage meter to check the output and it was in perfect range of around 14.x

So finally the ASC was able to identify the issue (apparently 2 days ago they had checked with another CBR's faulty rectifier in mine and it gave same issue so they thought my rectifier was ok. Then they came to know the rectifier from the other CBR was also faulty so today in front of me they checked it with another CBR's rectifier)

There is no stock of CBR rectifier with the service center. So I will get it from a contact I have.

I will give a final update hopefully tomorrow or day after once the bike is back with me after fitting brand new rectifier. Fingers crossed.

[joednazareth]

Originally Posted by Ratan Prabhu

There is no stock of CBR rectifier with the service center. So I will get it from a contact I have.

Hi! There.

1. Battery Voltage without engine running ~+12.7 V DC, if lower get battery tested or charged.
2. Battery Voltage when engine running. +14.7~15V DC
3. Battery rating and connected Electrical devices, does need regular care and inspection. ALL DIY procedures.
4. Details of HONDA CBR250R Magneto and Rectifier Regulator Unit.
Magneto: 3 Phase AC- 3 black wires- Connector=3 pin BLx3
Crank position sensor - 2 wire-White/Yellow , Blue/Yellow |
|6 pin connector
Neutral switch- 1 wire Light Green/Red

Rectifier + Regulator- RR: 5 Pin
Input : 3 BL
Output : Green, Red/White |

Best wishes

[Ratan Prabhu]

Originally Posted by Ratan Prabhu

I will give a final update hopefully tomorrow or day after once the bike is back with me after fitting brand new rectifier. Fingers crossed.

Managed to get the rectifier from my contact. Took it to the service center. They fitted it. Started the bike, revved, working fine. Double checked with voltage meter and it was stable at 14.x volts at various RPMs.

I also thought of getting the earth wire mod (detailed posts in xbhp) done but couldn't get a 10 sq mm wire anywhere. So skipped it.

Bike is working fine as before now. Touchwood.

Costs :
OEM rectifier : 2400
Labour +consumables + taxes : 477

I paid the Honda mechanic an extra 250 for all the hard work he did (had to try out various stuff as the other CBRs rectifier he tried in mine initially was also faulty so he had checked various other stuff which obviously wasn't factored in in the labour I paid to the ASC)

Note : in case anyone needs any OEM part for their CBR which they are not able to get from the ASC or taking long time for the ASC to order, let me know either in this thread or PM. I can help if my contact has that part available.

Have faced quite a few issues in 2021-22 after a hassle free first 10 yrs with the bike. Anyway, cheers... and thanks to all for responding to my queries.

[Gaur]

The rear brakes on my Non-ABS CBR-250r literally sucks.
Have recently changed the brake pads to Vesrah ceramic pads, they are yet to bed in but i feel it wont help much.

Do we have any other remedy to improve the rear brake performance of the Non-ABS version ?

B.T.W front brakes work fine with the stock brake pads, no complaints whatsoever.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by Gaur

Do we have any other remedy to improve the rear brake performance of the Non-ABS version ?

Using standard C250R stock rear pads from day 1 here with DOT4 brake oil & absolutely no complaints here. It's the quality & workmanship of ASC that matters when bleeding the brakes.

For front, I switched to Nissin MC kit with DOT 4 & the brakes are terrifyingly sharp!! It's hard to believe its non ABS. It was an outstanding job done by Didar Egmore when I complained stating the front brakes are pathetic & asked them if they could anything about it to improve.

[supremeBaleno]

Originally Posted by Gaur

The rear brakes on my Non-ABS CBR-250r literally sucks. BTW front brakes work fine with the stock brake pads, no complaints whatsoever.

That's how it has been with my stock NA CBR from Day1. Front brakes are sharp and do the job.
Rear brakes, well. I won't call it brakes - it seems like stepping on a block of wood. No feel or braking effect.

I had mentioned it earlier too on this thread as one of my grouses with an otherwise brilliant bike.
Anyway, my workaround was to not use the rear and stick to front alone - works well for my use.

[Gaur]

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

Rear brakes, well. I won't call it brakes - it seems like stepping on a block of wood. No feel or braking effect.

You said it, exactly the same feeling.

I can actually step on the rear brakes and rev the bike in 1st gear and it moves, so useless are the brakes, cant even use them to slow down unless at very low speeds.

I feel its something to do with the Master Cylinder assembly.

[Gaur]

Originally Posted by aargee

Using standard C250R stock rear pads from day 1 here with DOT4 brake oil & absolutely no complaints here. It's the quality & workmanship of ASC that matters when bleeding the brakes.

For front, I switched to Nissin MC kit with DOT 4 & the brakes are terrifyingly sharp!! It's hard to believe its non ABS. It was an outstanding job done by Didar Egmore when I complained stating the front brakes are pathetic & asked them if they could anything about it to improve.

Few months back tried Dot5 as well, didn't help, front are as sharp as they were before Dot5 , rear as bad as they were earlier.

[Ratan Prabhu]

Originally Posted by Gaur

I can actually step on the rear brakes and rev the bike in 1st gear and it moves, so useless are the brakes, cant even use them to slow down unless at very low speeds.

From this statement it is clear that it has nothing to do with the brake pads or the quality of brake fluid (Doesn't matter if it's Dot3/4/5.1).
It either means either the master cylinder has gone bad or the pistons are jammed and are not pushing the brake pads towards the disc.

Even with some air in the brake lines, the effect shouldn't be as bad as you described in the quoted post. But do make sure the rear brake fluid reservoir is air tight

Start with the easier bits and get the caliper checked for any jammed piston. If that is fine, it has to be the master cylinder (the one which sits hidden behind the right side passenger footrest assembly. It doesn't always require a replacement (can be repaired in some cases). But if it does, will cost you around 1450 for a new rear master cylinder.

[Ratan Prabhu]

Originally Posted by Gaur

Few months back tried Dot5 as well, didn't help, front are as sharp as they were before Dot5 , rear as bad as they were earlier.

I hope you meant Dot 5.1 and not 5.
Dot 5 is not compatible with our bikes and it will spoil the brake lines sooner or later.
It has to be either 3 or 4 or 5.1
Nothing other than these three.