[Ratan Prabhu]

Originally Posted by Ratan Prabhu

Hi Siddhant, I am attaching link to the CBR250R parts catalogue book pdf on my Google drive. You will find the part number there. I would have shared the number myself but I couldn't understand from the photo which particular area or part are you talking about.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-18...w?usp=drivesdk

Maybe this part is what you were referring ? (Pic is from the parts catalogue I shared above)

[ManasN95]

Originally Posted by siddhant

Go for Shree Byke Point, run by Prasad Bapat.

Only thing is, his workshop is in PCMC and it can be a bit far if you're staying around east Pune.

Originally Posted by aargee

Meter console?

So, I have finally dropped off the CBR at Shree Byke Point.
I have recently put in a new cone set, still the handle bar wobble is present even after setting the cone set, albeit minimal wobbling, but it's still present.
The bike doesn't feel smooth anymore, my hands have a tingling sensation even after 20-30 minutes of riding at city pace.

I am thinking of carrying out a complete service again, to see if that helps in any way.

Another issue, the bike doesn't accelerate as smoothly as she used to, feels stressed when accelerating and sounds harsh too. I am going to try the LiquiMoly engine oil next, or should I stick to Shell Advanced Ultra? She has Repsol in her right now.

Also, when I suspend the front wheel and rotate it, there is a sound of brakes working against the rotor and wheel does not feel like it's moving freely; co-incides with the fact that I feel she is not accelerating smoothly as before, and the 'engine braking' feels much more prominent now, and I am getting very low mileage of around 17-19 kmpl in the city, even with using Shell Petrol once in a while. Used to get 25+ in the city before.

What could be the cause? Prasad Bapat of Shree Byke Point is saying that the rubbers in the piston must have hardened, and we need to change the whole caliper assembly and the master cylinder to sort this issue.
Is his diagnosis correct, and if yes, we can't just replace the rubbers? Why does the whole caliper needs changing?

Seems I am facing a substantial bill.

[joednazareth]

Dear Manas,
Greetings to you.
1. Front forks:
Try to ride on a straight dash lane paint line. See if you depart left or right.
A. Get the suspension, hydraulic oil drained. Open top nut only. Purge the tubes.
B. Measure the drained volume.
C. Inspect the top and down tubes, they are not having resistance when fully pushed in or out, with out the H oil.
2. Did you carry out a DIY on the rear swing arm interface with the chassis. Schematics are posted.
3. Rear mono shocks , mounting links.
4. Front caliper purging and working can be inspected by removing the setup from the suspension mounting. And seeing its working by pressing and releasing the front brake lever.
It's a DIY procedure.
5. Engine response:
Cam top cover:
*gasket
*Reed valve clogged, stuck Cylinder head valves, old valve seals, Leaking valves IN and EX.
*Remove Spark Plug, observe it's electrodes and see piston top is not oily.
*timing wheels alignment
*shims, clearance and rec values for : EX shim LHS and RHS values.
*shims, clearance and rec values for: IN shim LHS and RHS values.
*Engine LHS RHS outer cover gaskets
*RHS OIL pump gasket
*RHS inner engine chamber O rings.
*Tricky part is the Air Box, rubber pipes connected (inspect each one)

Do one inspection procedure to begin with.
make observation
find solutions
Only then, you get to inspect other issues.

Good Luck.

[ManasN95]

Originally Posted by joednazareth

Dear Manas,

Good Luck.

Oh boy!

I, unfortunately, am pressed for time to carry out the suggestions, as I only have Sundays off and the garages in Pune are closed on Sundays too. But these suggestions require an expert mind and hands I am guessing.

Will see what the owner of the garage diagnoses, then will carry out the suggestions like you mentioned. Thanks for the prompt reply.

[Ratan Prabhu]

Not sure what is causing the wobbling. Ensure the fork oil quantity is correct and equal in both the forks.
One of my friend had unequal quantities of fork oil which caused wobbling and was resolved after refilling correctly.

Regarding free movement of wheels, there will always be little touching of the pads to the disc (minimal contact or due to some dust between the pads and disc) and it is absolutely normal.. unless the friction is unusually more. Even in that case, just get the pads removed and refitted. Calipers are pretty expensive so just get the little things checked and refitted before finalizing on new calipers as they are expensive.

Regarding less than 20 kmpl mileage in city - it is abnormally low. You should never get below 24 in city.
Check it fuel filter is clogged. Replace it if not done in last 10k kms (not necessary but it barely costs 250 rupees and maybe 250 more for labour). So get the cheaper replacements done first.

Regarding engine oil - what I've observed in terms of engine smoothness is :
Motul 7100 10w40 > Shell Adv Ultra 10w40 > Honda Throttle 10w30

So go for Motul 7100 and see if you find any difference in vibrations. Drain interval is around 4500 kms for it.

Do post here in case you found any solution for your bike's issues.

[ManasN95]

Originally Posted by Ratan Prabhu

Not sure what is causing the wobbling. . So get the cheaper replacements done first.

So, it goes on. I had taken her to Shree Byke Point here in PCMC, Pune. Even he refused to acknowledge the vibrations and the wobbling.

On checking the fork oil, it indeed was not in equal quantity. So completely flushed out the fork oil, filled in new fork oil (Motul 20W - 331 ml each) and bloody still the vibrations and wobbling is present.

Carried out a general service cause I thought why not, gave a try to Polytron MTC 25ml with a semi-synthetic oil. Don't feel any difference yet as the handlebar is vibrating like anything, and even the tyre is wobbling mildly. Wish I had a GoPro to capture this.

The fuel filter was alright, air filter had clogged up, so changed that. Recent Pune - Kalyan trip gave me 34 KMPL so I think we're okay on the mileage front as long as I am getting around 25 KMPL in the city.

The bike needs to be in good & experienced hands; because I desperately need her to get back to being smooth as she was an year ago.

Coneset is changed, fork oil is changed and to the right level.

Shims have started making a lot of noise, and consistently. Some nuts and bolts have started to rust.

So all in all, she's not in a good shape, but the expenses would be in good amount so would need to hold back for a while. Already spent 4000 bucks on her to diagnose and sort out the existing vibrations and wobbling issue but to no avail. So might as well go to renowned garage (Slipstream Performance) and get her sorted once and for all.

Intend to keep her till this year end, with me being a prospective customer for the Himalayan 450.

[skviknaraj]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

Don't feel any difference yet as the handlebar is vibrating like anything, and even the tyre is wobbling mildly. Wish I had a GoPro to capture this.

Have you checked the wheel bearings? When bearings give away, noise and wheel wobbling start.

[ManasN95]

Originally Posted by skviknaraj

Have you checked the wheel bearings? When bearings give away, noise and wheel wobbling start.

They're fine according to the last mechanic.

What's happening with me is that due to not being able to be present at the time of the work, I have to take them by their word. Hence, I don't really know whom to trust or not trust anymore.

Next time I am going to take a day off from work and only then approach Slipstream Performance.

[joednazareth]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

So, it goes on. I had taken her to Shree Byke Point here in PCMC, Pune. Even he refused to acknowledge the vibrations and the wobbling.

So all in all, she's not in a good shape, but the expenses would be in good amount so would need to hold back for a while. Already spent 4000 bucks on her to diagnose and sort out the existing vibrations and wobbling issue but to no avail. So might as well go to renowned garage (Slipstream Performance) and get her sorted once and for all.

Intend to keep her till this year end, with me being a prospective customer for the Himalayan 450.

Dear Manas,
Greetings to you.

1. Good to hear you have sorted the Damping oil in the shocks.
Have you got the 'front wheel' inspected for wheel balancing and weights on LHS or RHS or in the center of the rim.
Check with some seniors on Team-Bhp on adding ring weights to the RVM stem to compensate vibration.
2. CBR 250R is front heavy, so you have to consider all kinds of alignment.
Other factors that can induce distortion in your bike moving like butter on curves, bends or just cruising on a free way.
3. Visual check and use videos on the Internet to do a full inspection of your rear wheel, chain, swing arm and needle bearings health.
Sort out one issue at a time.
Take a test drive and make notes.
Mechanics: It's the man hours to work on your bike that will cost. Not rectification.
PS: Did your bike have a fall?
If Yes, take a small hammer and ping each section of your chassis.
LHS and RHS should sound similar.
All the above are DIY.
Best wishes.

[joednazareth]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

Shims have started making a lot of noise, and consistently. Some nuts and bolts have started to rust.

Dear Manas,

Greetings again.
I too have this same issue with my Honda Activa 100cc, First model.
1. Use this or similar tool: Dremel 9100-21 Forti-Flex 2.5-Amp Stationary Flex Shaft Precision Rotary Tool.
Get the top rust removed by buffing.
Use cardboard sheet, mark 1st bolt >> and punch into the board 123456..clock wise.
Use thick gloves to hold the Nuts/Bolts.
2. Use Aluminum Paint, 3 MANGOES 100ml, ASIAN PAINTS
Dip in the paint mix, mask the threads.
Dry in sunlight 2 days.
All the above are DIY procedures.
Best wishes.

[Gaur]

Hello All,

Facing a issue with my CBR 250R, today morning when i cranked the bike it makes a krrr sound the speedo flashes/goes blank intermittently and rpm needle makes a swipe.

Bike was running fine till yesterday evening, has a new battery replaced 2months back.

Opened up the seat and tried to locate the noise, felt like it is coming from the right side of the bike and i guess the RR unit sits there.

Could it be the RR unit gone kaput ?

I am yet to take it to the mechanic.

[Sman999]

Originally Posted by Gaur

Hello All,

Facing a issue with my CBR 250R, today morning when i cranked the bike it makes a krrr sound the speedo flashes/goes blank intermittently and rpm needle makes a swipe.

Bike was running fine till yesterday evening, has a new battery replaced 2months back.

Opened up the seat and tried to locate the noise, felt like it is coming from the right side of the bike and i guess the RR unit sits there.

Could it be the RR unit gone kaput ?

I am yet to take it to the mechanic.

Is the horn working fine? If you have a voltmeter you can probably check the battery voltage. If there is any short circuit then the battery might have drained.

If the horn is also not working then get the battery charged and try again.

[Gaur]

Originally Posted by Sman999

Is the horn working fine? If you have a voltmeter you can probably check the battery voltage. If there is any short circuit then the battery might have drained.

If the horn is also not working then get the battery charged and try again.

Everything working fine, horn, lights, fuel pump primes up well.
just when we thumb the starter we get a krrr sound from right side and once it stops in 2-3 seconds starter tries to crank but it couldn't and the whole cycle repeats.

i guess some moisture in some socket.

[Sman999]

Originally Posted by Gaur

i guess some moisture in some socket.

Again if the battery voltage is below 11.5 it won't be enough for the starter motor to crank up. Did you try push starting the vehicle?

[Gaur]

Originally Posted by Sman999

Again if the battery voltage is below 11.5 it won't be enough for the starter motor to crank up. Did you try push starting the vehicle?

Just came back after getting it fixed.

Took it to the mechanic next door, push started it and it jumped back to life.
Revved the nuts of it for a few seconds and let it idle, all good now.

Probably some moisture in some connector.

Yesterday after a ride i immediately cleaned my bike, since the engine was hot some steam was generated and reached some place where it got condensed to water and hence the issue.