[supremeBaleno]

Originally Posted by aargee

When I used to weigh nearly 80 Kg, the bike was lugging at 6th & 75 Kmph; offlate I've been observing even at 6th & 55 Kmph the engine was barely out of lugging.

I am only 65kg, but it still wouldn't feel comfortable riding the CBR at 50-55kmph in 6th.
BTW, my point was that what RP read on the internet isn't possible in real-life, which is what you are also saying.

Originally Posted by aargee

Sir, you forgot one more point...
Same person, same post, just adding few missed, yet pertinent points marked in bold, to which I too agree...

I didn't miss those. I know that laden weight does affect acceleration and other params like FE etc.
But some engine characteristics like low-end torque (lack of it, in this case) can be a dampener even at 60kg, as I see in my usage.

[Ratan Prabhu]

Just an FYI for CBR250R C-ABS version owners who don't want to spend 2200 on the OEM front brake pads.

Recently saw few posts on xbhp from a trustworthy member and thought of trying it myself.

There is a brand called NIKAVI which makes brake pads for various bikes. The cost for the front brake pad was a fraction of the OEM ones.

As my front pad was nearing its end, and my usage of the bike is fairly low and mostly within city limits only, I thought of trying these pads. They cost only 499.
Exact fit for C-ABS model of CBR250R.

Initial impressions : Pretty average. Not good, not bad. Need to press the brake lever harder to get good stopping power. I am assuming that as the pads were brand new, it feels that way. Will update after 500 kms of riding if they feel good.

Not recommending this product for regular riders who ride quite a lot or do regular highway trips. Always go for OEM. But in case you use the bike for city only or regular errands and you don't want to spend 2.2k, this alternative can be quite decent.

[Ratan Prabhu]

Quick update on the Nikavi front brakes for CBR250R C-ABS

After 500 kms of usage, the bite has improved but can't be compared to OEM brakes. The brake lever feels little spongy and needs to be pressed hard to feel good bite. (My brake fluid levels are ok)

Conclusion : these pads are fine if you ride it in city or for short regular errands (fine for me)
Won't recommend for riders who have good usage on the highways as I won't be very comfortable with these coming from 100+ KMPH speeds to standstill within short distance.

[supremeBaleno]

Originally Posted by Ratan Prabhu

Just an FYI for CBR250R C-ABS version owners who don't want to spend 2200 on the OEM front brake pads

The front brake pads of my non-ABS CBR250 are due for change at the next service in few months. Given my highway-only riding, I will stick to OE pads. Do they really cost 2200? Because my mechanic said EBC is around 3K, while stock is 1K odd. (oddly the front disc pads of my Baleno1.6 cost only 1500)

The chain and sprocket set is also to be replaced during the service. Mechanic has suggested the set from RK Japan, which he says is few 100s costlier than stock, but worth it. Anyone used it ? Good to go for or stick with stock?

I was disappointed that the chain/sprocket gave up in less than 20K kms - my mechanic attributes it to it being an open chain (no cover) & thus exposed to dust/dirt. And with chain life being about timely adjustment + cleaning + lubing, neither of which I did other than what was done at the scheduled services.

[Ratan Prabhu]

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

The front brake pads of my non-ABS CBR250 are due for change at the next service in few months. Given my highway-only riding, I will stick to OE pads. Do they really cost 2200?

The chain and sprocket set is also to be replaced during the service. Mechanic has suggested the set from RK Japan, which he says is few 100s costlier than stock, but worth it. Anyone used it ? Good to go for or stick with stock?

I was disappointed that the chain/sprocket gave up in less than 20K kms

Hi, the 2.2k I had mentioned is for C-ABS version's OEM front pads. I am sure the standard variant's front pads cost much lower (around 1.2k I am guessing)

Chain/sprocket kit - I've always used OEMs.
And I am surprised yours lasted 20k kms. Mine never lasted for more than 12k kms with regular cleaning and lubing after every 1.5k kms.

Just for reference, the ASC mechanic had told me the average life of CBR250R's sprocket ranges between 10k to 20k kms depending upon riding styles and lubing/adjusting regularly.

Cheers.

[iamahunter]

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

The front brake pads of my non-ABS CBR250 are due for change at the next service in few months. Given my highway-only riding, I will stick to OE pads. Do they really cost 2200? Because my mechanic said EBC is around 3K, while stock is 1K odd. (oddly the front disc pads of my Baleno1.6 cost only 1500)

I don't remember exactly, but I had replaced mine for 1.2K last year. I am planning to go for EBC ones next time. (Mine's an ABS model)

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

The chain and sprocket set is also to be replaced during the service. Mechanic has suggested the set from RK Japan, which he says is few 100s costlier than stock, but worth it. Anyone used it ? Good to go for or stick with stock?

I was disappointed that the chain/sprocket gave up in less than 20K kms - my mechanic attributes it to it being an open chain (no cover) & thus exposed to dust/dirt. And with chain life being about timely adjustment + cleaning + lubing, neither of which I did other than what was done at the scheduled services.

Have replaced the chain sprocket with a stock one at 20k kms itself.

Yes, CBR's chain sprocket run 20k odd only, untill you really clean and lube the chain at frequent intervals. With that you can extend the chain's life to another 5-7k kms.

Just to give a reference, my Benelli's chain gave up at 11k kms and costed me 14k for replacement.
Given the highway ride, go with a reputed brand or stock ones.

BTW, How's the condition of the sprocket, while the chain may have elongated, the sprocket teeth wear out. If the sprocket teeth are fine, you can shorten the chain.
PS. This is a cost saving option only, incase one only rides in the city. For highways, check and replace the chain sprocket set.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

I was disappointed that the chain/sprocket gave up in less than 20K kms - my mechanic attributes it to it being an open chain (no cover) & thus exposed to dust/dirt. And with chain life being about timely adjustment + cleaning + lubing, neither of which I did other than what was done at the scheduled services.

Boss, stock sprocket last only so much; I got mine replaced at 81545, 100373, 120235 & 133677. The last one was out of precaution as the bike wasn't used for nearly a year & I wanted almost everything replaced, otherwise I'm sure it would've lasted 7K more easily. This is despite lubing the chain every 2K Km or when hearing squeaking noise with Motul

[Ratan Prabhu]

From aargee's and hunter's comments, I feel my sprockets lasting only 12k kms is due to low usage. My average running is 3k kms a year so and 70% in city. So lasts 3.5-4 years Am I right to assume this ? Because I can't imagine them doing 20k without requiring replacement.

[Ratan Prabhu]

Originally Posted by iamahunter

I don't remember exactly, but I had replaced mine for 1.2K last year. I am planning to go for EBC ones next time. (Mine's an ABS model)

Yours is a BS4 bike which has Dual Channel ABS and not C-ABS.
Surprising to know it's only 1.2k for your front pads. You sure they are sintered ones and CBR250R specific ?

Because the hornet ABS front pads also fit the cbr but are ceramic ones and cost below 1k.

@aargee. Sir, yours is BS3 variant from 2011 and I believe you have been using the OEM front brake pads. Can you confirm if the pricing of ~2.2k is correct ? The pricing shouldn't vary depending upon the city so much.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by Ratan Prabhu

@aargee. Sir, yours is BS3 variant from 2011 and I believe you have been using the OEM front brake pads. Can you confirm if the pricing of ~2.2k is correct ? The pricing shouldn't vary depending upon the city so much.

Yes boss, mine is from June 2011, should be BS3, not sure. Not sure about the price because I only have the total service cost stored & not from the individual items.

Just confirmed, brake pads of non ABS, front is Rs 890 & rear around the same, ASC said to keep aside Rs 2K for non ABS. For ABS, it's 1800 & 1700, asked to keep aside Rs 4K

[siddhant]

I just did a 1420 km (520 km + 180 km + 200 km + 520 km) 4-day solo trip to Koraput, Odisha. I usually do a lot of short 200-300 km one-day trips but this was the first time I covered 500+ km in a single day.

I had read a lot of praises about the suspension from @aargee but truly experienced it over this trip. I must have encountered about 250-300 speed breakers over this trip (yes, you read that right) and I mistakenly passed over some not-so-good ones at 60-65 kph and glided over several of them at 40-50 kph even when some trucks, cars and Boleros were slowing down.

Also, the MRF Masseter Tyres are quite grippy and performed very well around the corners in the ghat sections.

One area where I faced minor issues was during aggressive downshifting from 6th to 2nd under braking, typically while slowing down for speed breakers. When I shift two gears at once, especially from 4th to 2nd, the gear shift becomes a bit clunky if not done without proper throttle blipping or at lower speeds. I like to be at 2nd before the speed breaker but end up at 3rd sometime. I'd be interested to hear how others do this downshifting.

Overall fuel efficiency: 33 kmpl, 35-37 kmpl achievable if ridden under 100 kph most of the time.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by siddhant

One area where I faced minor issues was during aggressive downshifting from 6th to 2nd under braking, typically while slowing down for speed breakers. When I shift two gears at once, especially from 4th to 2nd, the gear shift becomes a bit clunky if not done without proper throttle blipping or at lower speeds. I like to be at 2nd before the speed breaker but end up at 3rd sometime. I'd be interested to hear how others do this downshifting

Pls pardon me for saying so - This is not the right way to downshift. The gears shifts have to be proportionate with the speeds + RPM.

Try
1st gear + 9500 RPM + 2 gears = notice the speed & RPM at 3rd gear
versus
1st gear + 6000 RPM + 2nd gear 6000 RPM = notice the speed & RPM at 3rd gear

There will be significant difference especially on the riding pleasure; ask the pillion, if possible.

Always, always & always, upshift or downshift has to match the speeds & RPM. And most importantly, do not use clutch for prolonged time when shifting gears & never ever apply brakes when clutch is engaged. Good riding habit is always to use gears & brakes as much less as possible.

Originally Posted by siddhant

Overall fuel efficiency: 33 kmpl, 35-37 kmpl achievable if ridden under 100 kph most of the time.

Try the irritating constant 80 Kmph next time, the FE figures will touch 40 Kmpl+ Around 90ish will yield 36+ Kmpl

[siddhant]

Originally Posted by aargee

Pls pardon me for saying so - This is not the right way to downshift. The gears shifts have to be proportionate with the speeds + RPM.

Try
1st gear + 9500 RPM + 2 gears = notice the speed & RPM at 3rd gear
versus
1st gear + 6000 RPM + 2nd gear 6000 RPM = notice the speed & RPM at 3rd gear

There will be significant difference especially on the riding pleasure; ask the pillion, if possible.

Always, always & always, upshift or downshift has to match the speeds & RPM. And most importantly, do not use clutch for prolonged time when shifting gears & never ever apply brakes when clutch is engaged. Good riding habit is always to use gears & brakes as much less as possible.

I agree and I don't use clutch for prolonged periods when riding. Also, I downshift + throttle blip when necessary to match the revs so my downshifts under normal riding are pretty quick and swift.

However, I am talking about scenarios when I'm cruising at 95-100 kph and spot an unmarked speed breaker ahead and need to slow down to 20-30 kph quick, athough not as extreme as a panic situation. What I do is apply continuous braking force and at appropriate rpm/speed, quick downshifts with mild throttle blips. But, sometimes I take a shortcut if I am not at 2nd just before the speed breaker, and I try shifting down down from 4th quickly in a span of a second. This is when the gear shifts aren't perfect.

Attaching this from the Brakes chapter of Sports Riding Technique. This is what I try to do. Although written for braking around a corner, same idea holds.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by siddhant

Attaching this from the Brakes chapter of Sports Riding Technique. This is what I try to do. Although written for braking around a corner, same idea holds

These steps are right, but the way we perceive & execute needs a little change.

What it says is continuous brakes being applied, while the clutch is still engaged, a blip to match the revs.

Point E says - Let out the clutch level in a CONTROLLED manner, just in case you haven't matched the rpm perfectly to the new gear

That word controlled is the key; how much of control is actually a control for clunky gear shift? That comes out of prolonged experience & individual riding style, that works best for them.

If I were to spot an unmarked speed breaker all of a sudden, I would simply try lower the speed as much as possible & simply stand over the foot pegs. If I follow your method, then, it will be a complete downshift until 2nd or 1st gear with speeds as low as 5-10 Kmph. And, I don't blip very rarely as I match the gears with speed.

[Ratan Prabhu]

Have any of you used heavy handlebar end weights or any particular handlebar grips to reduce the vibration felt on palms ? The vibrations aren't too harsh but off lately harsh enough to make my hands go numb after riding 30 mins. I don't death grip the handle but still causing this issue.
The mechanic says these level of vibrations are normal for CBR and apparently no issue with valve clearance either (he said as long as there is no big ticking or knocking sound, there isn't a need to check the shims or valve clearance).