mobike008
traveloholic is right. Your motorcycles electric starter should work if the clutch lever is pulled in.
If it doesn't either the small electrical switch just below the clutch lever is out of adjustment or it is faulty.
In either case your dealer should fix it for you.
There are several switches that will prevent the motorcycle from starting.
1) For motorcycles with a side stand, if the side stand is not fully retracted the computer will not boot and the electric starter will not work.
If the side stand has been used and then gently returned to the retracted position, the switch will occasionally not return to the OK position. In this case I've found that lowering the side stand again and then knocking it back into the retracted position with a good Whap! will cause the switch to operate correctly so that the motorcycle will start.
This switch has been known to cause intermittent mis-firing or pausing of the engine if the motorcycle is being ridden on very rough roads.
What is happening in this case is the side stand is bouncing from the fully retracted position to a slightly "down" position and then back to the fully retracted position.
Disconnecting the switch by unplugging the wiring harness above the switch will keep the switch from disabling the motorcycle but doing this is somewhat dangerous because the rider can start to ride while the side stand is still down.
Riding this way can cause the motorcycle to throw the rider (and passenger) to the ground if the stand hits a large object.
An example of this is when suddenly riding into a large pot-hole in the pavement or when riding off of a curb into a street.
2) If the motorcycle is not in neutral with the green neutral indicator light "on", the power to the ignition and the electrical starter will be turned off by the computer.
Placing the gears into neutral so that the green light comes on, will allow the power to the ignition and the starter motor to be on.
As I mentioned, if the green light is off, retracting the clutch lever fully will by-pass this safety switch and allow the motorcycle to start. This situation often happens at a stop light.
Bypassing the clutch switch or the neutral indicator is very dangerous so I wouldn't tell anyone how to do it even if I knew the answer.
3) There is a "roll over switch" which is intended to automatically shut off the engine if the bike falls down with the engine running.
This switch will prevent the motorcycle from starting or running unless some special things are first done.
a) Put the bike up on the center stand.
b) Turn the key off and push in the red "stop" switch on the right hand grip to the off or "kill" position.
c) Wait a few seconds and then turn the key on. Then, with the key still on, change the "stop" switch to the "run" position.
This should reset the "roll over switch" and allow the computer to reboot.
You can then start the engine.
4) The "stop switch" (sometimes called the "kill switch") on the right hand grip will of course shut off the engine if it is pushed to that position.
What often happens if your motorcycle is parked is some dunderhead will be looking at your motorcycle and push the switch to the off position. :-(
Of course, when you return you fully expect the motorcycle to start but nothing comes on. No lights, no computer boot, nothing!
The first thing to check when this happens is that "stop switch". Make sure it is ON.
I don't know how your RE is idling but when mine was new it seemed to idle very fast. The computer seemed to be searching for the right speed and often it would slow down and then keep on slowing down until the engine quit. This usually happened at a stop light when a mass of cars were right behind me.
First I must say, DO NOT MESS WITH THE SWITCH OR SCREWS FOR THE SWITCH ON THE SIDE OR TOP OF THE INJECTOR BODY. Those control the computers throttle sensing switch and they must NEVER be adjusted without some special equipment. They also have nothing to do with the idle speed of the engine.
Although it is counter-intuitive, I found that by reducing the idle speed slightly, the computer seemed to be happier and the motorcycle would seldom die at a light.
The idle speed adjustment screw is a very large brass screw that is down in a deep hole on top of the injector body.
This screw controls the amount of air that can pass into the engine when the engine is idling so turning it "in" (clockwise) will slow the engine down. Turning it "out" (counterclockwise) will speed the engine up.
On my bike, I found that by turning the large brass headed screw clockwise about 1/8 of a full turn reduced the engine idle speed slightly and, more importantly stopped the computer from "hunting around" for the right fuel setting.
Yes, my bike still occasionally starts to die at a stop light but a slight twist of the wrist on the throttle solves the problem.