[hserus]

Originally Posted by R2D2

But personally speaking I don't think using either would make a difference to my car's engine or other comparative commuter car petrol motor from that generation.

Semi Synthetic would work quite well. Where a more modern formulation would probably help is in its additives package, which gradually cleans out your sludge and works a bit better at lubrication.

Picking a more modern oil but with a higher weight works better than using whatever outdated spec the car manual asks for - API SN 15w40 like Helix HX5 for example. Or a 5w30 HX8 if your car asks for it.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by hserus

Semi Synthetic would work quite well. Picking a more modern oil but with a higher weight works better than using whatever outdated spec the car manual asks for - API SN 15w40 like Helix HX5 for example. Or a 5w30 HX8 if your car asks for it.

I use only some of the best available 5W-30 or 5W-40 synthetics in my car. So the engine has minimal sludge.

If I had to use a semi synthetic it would one similar to Shell Helix HX7 10W-40. Mineral oil? Well, after using only synthetic for nearly a decade I'd be hesitant to use mineral in the car. The Palio 1.6 GTX OTOH uses HX7 semi synthetic because the engine requires xW-40.

[Swapnil4585]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Do not use an engine flush with a high mileage engine. Run this mineral oil for your outstation trip and on your return drain and refill with HX8 if you wish. But I'd prefer Shell's top of the line Helix Ultra.

Note the 1ZZ-FE engine is prone to developing sludge so either you use a good/top quality synthetic for 10K kms or a mineral for about 5-6K kms before changing the oil.

I drove the car for 200-250 kilometres (including a little of Italian tune up) and changed the oil to the Helix Ultra 5-40 fully synthetic yesterday. It is now super smooth and silent inside.

Will make a short highway run today before our trip starting from tomorrow, to let the service bed in correctly. Had I waited for 1-2 days, would've not wasted 1750/- of mineral oil and a lot of fuel

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Swapnil4585

I drove the car for 200-250 kilometres (including a little of Italian tune up) and changed the oil to the Helix Ultra 5-40 fully synthetic yesterday. It is now super smooth and silent inside.

SHU or other 5W-40 or 5W-30 synthetic oil suit this engine well. I would heartily recommend SHU for the car.

Had I waited for 1-2 days, would've not wasted 1750/- of mineral oil and a lot of fuel

I'd suggest you take your own engine oil and filter before going to any FNG to preempt chances of them using their own in-stock parts.

[Swapnil4585]

Originally Posted by R2D2

SHU or other 5W-40 or 5W-30 synthetic oil suit this engine well. I would heartily recommend SHU for the car.



I'd suggest you take your own engine oil and filter before going to any FNG to preempt chances of them using their own in-stock parts.

I do that every time, but this time my FNG wasn't available and I had wanted to get the car serviced at the earliest possible so as to give me 5-6 days time prior to our long trip so as to let the service bed in. I follow this rule religiously.

[hserus]

Originally Posted by Swapnil4585

I do that every time, but this time my FNG wasn't available and I had wanted to get the car serviced at the earliest possible so as to give me 5-6 days time prior to our long trip so as to let the service bed in. I follow this rule religiously.

A simple oil change doesn't require any sort of bedding in. Suspension work or similar then yes definitely, but doing this for a typical oil change is massively over thinking things.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by hserus

A simple oil change doesn't require any sort of bedding in. Suspension work or similar then yes definitely, but doing this for a typical oil change is massively over thinking things.

What Swapnil4585 is doing is basically allowing time for any potential problems for e.g. oil leaks caused by loosely fitted oil filters to surface before embarking on a long highway journey. Better to discover a problem in the city than out on the highway.

ASCs or FNGs can make mistakes. For e.g. in my car's case it was the low level of coolant in the system after a coolant flush by TKM's ASC. I caught it only because I always double check a few items before leaving the service centre a practice I have followed since the '80s. Incidentally the car due for a coolant flush in the upcoming annual service this week.

[Leoshashi]

Guys,

A close friend recently picked up a Swift ZXi, with the G13B Petrol engine. The car has done approximately 1.4Lac kms. The car drives beautifully, hence he didn't think twice before getting her home. However, he now faces two issues, and I am posting his questions in BOLD:

1. Sludge: He had to change the tappet cover gasket, and that's when he saw loads of sludge inside.

Action taken: Based on my recommendation, he cleaned the sludge whatever was physically accessible on the head, and the sump and strainer was also cleaned. The logic behind this action was to ensure that the engine doesn't get starved of oil due to chocked strainer.

2. Dipstick popping up: The dipstick keeps popping up after few days, also there is warm air coming from the dipstick always.

Action Taken: This issue can often happen if the PCV valve is chocked, and the pressure gets relieved from the dipstick. I told him to clean the PCV and check. That stopped the hot air coming out issue, but unfortunately the plastic bodied PCV broke. He has installed Zen MPFI's PCV valve for the time being and the issue is back. We are waiting for the Swift's recommended PCV to arrive.

Anything else to check??

Regarding Sludge:

1. Will it be safe to use Synthetic oil on this car?? We aren't much concerned about the oil seal leaks which happens in old cars, can be fixed easily, but will it affect the compression in any way? Synthetic oil is being given a thought as it has detergents which help cleaning the sludge.

2. Mechanic advised against using any flush, as it may cause new noises to surface. Is this claim authentic??

Some more info about the car:

1. Engine has good pep and acceleration.
2. No Blue smoke or soot in tailpipe.
3. No oil consumption

Some pics of the engine taken during Tappet cover gasket change and the sump cleaning:























Regards,
Shashi

[hserus]

I would say at least ensure that the spark plugs are removed and cleaned, change all the filters. Then maybe use semi synthetic oil from someone like Shell that has a ton of additives.

As for flush the new problem is generally leaky old seals that were plugged by the flush and now start to leak in earnest.

[Ironhide]

Originally Posted by hserus

I would say at least ensure that the spark plugs are removed and cleaned, change all the filters. Then maybe use semi synthetic oil from someone like Shell that has a ton of additives.

As for flush the new problem is generally leaky old seals that were plugged by the flush and now start to leak in earnest.

Shell does have a mineral oil like that, it is called Shell Rimula R4. Apparently it has excellent cleaning properties. Here is a bit of a write up on the use of this particular oil, which was used by the OP in his motorcycle to good results. Though whether it can be used in a petrol car is a subject that would need some digging into.

Cheers !

(Article courtesy : https://www.xbhp.com)

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

1. Will it be safe to use Synthetic oil on this car?? We aren't much concerned about the oil seal leaks which happens in old cars, can be fixed easily, but will it affect the compression in any way? Synthetic oil is being given a thought as it has detergents which help cleaning the sludge.

I am a bit confused about how a BHPian's former car could have so much sludge, unless MSIL's service centres used less than optimal engine oils e.g. Servo by IOC. I had virtually the same engine in my 2000 MPFI Esteem (G13BB IIRC) and like most Jap petrol engines it's a beauty. Just feed her good quality oil and see the difference.

So, should you use synthetic - I'd say no in a car with 1.4 lakh kms on the clock. Use a nice mineral oil like Shell HX 5 or a semi synthetic HX7 even Castrol's Magnatec (both 10W-40)

I would not recommend using an xW-30 oil with this engine, only xW-40 or even xW-50. I can't remember the default oil viscosity for my MPFI Esteem (an old memory now) but I think it was 20W-50 as was the case for my 2002 Honda City 1.5 EXI Type II. Please check the manual to be sure. At one point we had 2 Esteems in the family..the first a maroon 1995 carburettor model and the 2000 MPFI.

Mechanic advised against using any flush, as it may cause new noises to surface. Is this claim authentic??

He's right. Using a flush in an engine is like washing your hands with Nirma washing powder. The same job done by one of the engine oils mentioned above will be gentle and gradual over a period of time, like using Dove soap. Use a good mineral oil, run for about 500-1000 kms, drain and refill each time changing the filter which is sure to trap any muck in the oil. Repeat as required. Shift to semi synthetic thereafter. A Maruti is not expensive to run and maintain. This and the superb after sales network remain key positive points of the ownership experience.

[hserus]

Originally Posted by Ironhide

Shell does have a mineral oil like that, it is called Shell Rimula R4. Apparently it has excellent cleaning properties. Here is a bit of a write up on the use of this particular oil, which was used by the OP in his motorcycle to good results. Though whether it can be used in a petrol car is a subject that would need some digging into.

Not a good thing to recommend for petrol cars. I use Rimula R4 in my Scorpio and it works quite well, this is meant for diesels.

SAE Viscosity Grade: 15W-40
API CI-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF; ACEA E7, E5; Global DHD-1, Cummins CES 20071, 72, 76, 77, 78; Cat ECF-1-A; DDC 93K215; Mack EO-M, EO-M+; MAN 3275; MB Approval 228.3; Renault Trucks RLD-2; Volvo VDS-3

If you want a 15w40 weight semi synthetic try Shell HX5 https://www.amazon.in/Shell-55003997.../dp/B00QK6R55Q or better HX8 5w30

[DeepakS]

Hi guys! I have a Nissan Terrano 85PS. The odo reads 70k and i am going in for a service at a FNG.
1. What all is the required to get done in standard service of 70k?
2. I am thinking of getting synthetic oil this time, any suggestions of what variant/brand?

Thanks!

[Rshrey22]

Originally Posted by DeepakS

Hi guys! I have a Nissan Terrano 85PS. The odo reads 70k and i am going in for a service at a FNG.
1. What all is the required to get done in standard service of 70k?
2. I am thinking of getting synthetic oil this time, any suggestions of what variant/brand?

Thanks!

Refer Service chart in owner's manual. Stick to Semi Synthetic if you have not used Synthetic before. The best time to shift to Synthetic is when Odo reads 20,000-30,000 km. Shell Hx7 or Mobil Super 3000 are a good choice.

[T Y A G I]

Hi Team,

Swift LDI 2014 Model 100K done.Got it with 65K done and currently using HX8 5W30.
Previously used Mobile 3000 Super.

Please suggest oil keeping in view the Odometer reading.

Regards,
Tyagi