[Parth46]

Got my Grand i10's second service done today at Advaith Hyundai Bangalore and moved to fully-synth Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 at 9.2K on the odo.

Drove back 20KMs and here are initial thoughts:

Engine, which was already pretty smooth and quiet has become considerably more so. The overall NVH has improved considerably. It has become much more revv-happy and low end torque delivery, my key problem, seems to have improved.

The car is much more eager to revv to higher RPMs and moves forward with much more enthusiasm at the same revvs compared to before the service.

Overall, very good initial impressions and hope to see this get even better as the oil takes full effect and engine opens up further.

Of course, how much of this was due to just the new oil compared to the overall tune-up/servicing is something that can't be very clearly determined, but I'm loving the overall improvement in the drive.

Full service experience at Advaith Hyundai will be posted shortly in the official review thread.

Many thanks to everyone for their feedback over the last several days.

EDIT : Hyundai gladly accepted my own oil and didn't create any warranty issues or objections. In fact several folks mentioned that fully-synth is much better for the engine overall and if customers bring the right grade and brand they have absolutely no issues.

Cheers,
Parth

[csateesh]

Originally Posted by Captain Slow

If the manufacturer recommends 5w30 then use 5w30.

Stick to 5W30.

For older cars which have high miles thicker oil will work better. Your car being relatively new, stick with what the manufacturer recommends.

if 5w30 and 5w40 are the same then why are oil companies selling the same oil in different oil grades?

I really do not know about Diesel engines.

@Captain slow - I completely agree with all of your comments. When it comes to Diesel Engine the only thing that you need to be informed of is the C<> grade. Most of the new diesel engines need CI4 or CI4+ as the detergent contents in the oil has increased due to EGR application

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Captain Slow

Today We bought a can of Shell Helix Ultra which had an MRP of almost Rs 5,150-/ ( this is what the shell bunks charge)

Looking at the can all looked good until I saw something very interesting.
[b]This Oil is now made in India!

I used bought the Made in India oil a few months back for my car's annual service + a can of HX7 for my Palio 1.6. The Palio has been on HX7 for a little over a year now.

Went for an interstate drive after the service and I did feel a mild improvement in smoothness and response after the oil change. The older SHU 5w-40 oil was from the imported batch, it was made in Qatar.

The new MII oil has had a slight formulation change. No complaints so far. My Altis has been running with SHU 5W-40 since 2009 and I have absolutely no doubt the oil is excellent. The Palio has seen a marked improvement after using SH HX7. Until Mobil 1 is introduced in 5W-30/10W-30 or 5W-40 (grades recommended for my car), it will be SHU 5w-40 every time.

[rustynails]

Originally Posted by R2D2

I used bought the Made in India oil a few months back for my car's annual service + a can of HX7 for my Palio 1.6. The Palio has been on HX7 for a little over a year now.

Went for an interstate drive after the service and I did feel a mild improvement in smoothness and response after the oil change. The older SHU 5w-40 oil was from the imported batch, it was made in Qatar.

The new MII oil has had a slight formulation change. No complaints so far. My Altis has been running with SHU 5W-40 since 2009 and I have absolutely no doubt the oil is excellent. The Palio has seen a marked improvement after using SH HX7. Until Mobil 1 is introduced in 5W-30/10W-30 or 5W-40 (grades recommended for my car), it will be SHU 5w-40 every time.

By the way Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5W30 is available in India now. You may also try Mobil Delvac 1 5W40 or Mobil Super Formula I 5W40. All of these are synthetic engine oils..

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by rustynails

By the way Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5W30 is available in India now. You may also try Mobil Delvac 1 5W40 or Mobil Super Formula I 5W40. All of these are synthetic engine oils..

Hmm, no that looks like a semi synthetic. Delvac 1 is a diesel specific synthetic while Super Formula is a 2nd rung synthetic to Mobil 1.

Mobil 1 for petrol engines and Delvac 1 for diesels are the oils you can bet your engine on. Ditto for SHU 5W-40 for petrol. Shell had a diesel specific SHU but pulled it off the market possibly due to lack of sales.

After using SHU 5W-40 the only other oil that will go in the engine is Mobil 1 fully synthetic in one of the recommended grades. I'll stick to HX7 for the Palio. V happy with these oils.

[SnakemanJohny]

Could not read through all 281 pages, so please forgive me if the reply exists somewhere there ! Moreover, forum members mostly mention the brand, partly or fully, without the grades, which does not give me full information.

As all opinions suggest synthetics are better, I took my 2011 Gypsy King to a MASS (CAMAC) in Calcutta for servicing and oil change (from mineral MGO to synthetic) on 21 march 2015. It has run approx. 11,000 kms, so the ideal time to change to synthetic oil, as most of you recommend.

Typically, they convinced me to go for semi-synthetic as the fully synthetics are very costly. They put in four litres of 'Total Quartz SMC 5W30' API-SL, which I found on internet research is ideal for "K" series engines. The MASS people probably do not know that all Maruti BS4s are "K" series EXCEPT Gypsy !
Moreover, 5W30 is recommended for -30 centigrade to +10 degrees only ! But they have been giving it to all customers in Calcutta, with a temperature range of 10-40 degrees centigrade !! Should I continue with the oil, or change it immediately, with maximum temperatures already at +36 ?

[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by SnakemanJohny

As all opinions suggest synthetics are better, I took my 2011 Gypsy King to a MASS (CAMAC) in Calcutta for servicing and oil change (from mineral MGO to synthetic) on 21 march 2015. It has run approx. 11,000 kms, so the ideal time to change to synthetic oil, as most of you recommend.

Typically, they convinced me to go for semi-synthetic as the fully synthetics are very costly.

Moreover, 5W30 is recommended for -30 centigrade to +10 degrees only !

1. In your post you seem to be confused about a semi and a full synth. I guess you used a semi-synth. I do not think a full synth is available in API-SL only, they are all SM or SN.
2. Please check the manual. Honda is Ok with xxW30 for all cars, and not to just +10C. In fact now they are even happy with an SAE20!. But this also depends on the car manufacturer, as to how tight are his tolerances.

[Grr7]

Originally Posted by SnakemanJohny

Could not read through all 281 pages, so please forgive me if the reply exists somewhere there ! Moreover, forum members mostly mention the brand, partly or fully, without the grades, which does not give me full information.

As all opinions suggest synthetics are better, I took my 2011 Gypsy King to a MASS (CAMAC) in Calcutta for servicing and oil change (from mineral MGO to synthetic) on 21 march 2015. It has run approx. 11,000 kms, so the ideal time to change to synthetic oil, as most of you recommend.

Typically, they convinced me to go for semi-synthetic as the fully synthetics are very costly. They put in four litres of 'Total Quartz SMC 5W30' API-SL, which I found on internet research is ideal for "K" series engines. The MASS people probably do not know that all Maruti BS4s are "K" series EXCEPT Gypsy !
Moreover, 5W30 is recommended for -30 centigrade to +10 degrees only ! But they have been giving it to all customers in Calcutta, with a temperature range of 10-40 degrees centigrade !! Should I continue with the oil, or change it immediately, with maximum temperatures already at +36 ?

I have a very limited knowledge in this sphere. But, as a layman I link it with thickness/viscosity of the oil.
I once poured 5W30 (out of overflowing love for my car) in my 1.1 lac run Zen which incidentally also has a G series engine and the experience was not very good. The older G series engines came with recommendation for 20W40 or likes, they are happy having the thicker oil.
So, I would suggest that keeping aside a little loss, you must switch back to the oil grade specified in your user manual. Maruti presents it nicely with a good graph showing all the possible grades acceptable in the user manual itself.

Regards

[antihero]

Originally Posted by SnakemanJohny

Could not read through all 281 pages, so please forgive me if the reply exists somewhere there ! Moreover, forum members mostly mention the brand, partly or fully, without the grades, which does not give me full information.

As all opinions suggest synthetics are better, I took my 2011 Gypsy King to a MASS (CAMAC) in Calcutta for servicing and oil change (from mineral MGO to synthetic) on 21 march 2015. It has run approx. 11,000 kms, so the ideal time to change to synthetic oil, as most of you recommend.

Typically, they convinced me to go for semi-synthetic as the fully synthetics are very costly. They put in four litres of 'Total Quartz SMC 5W30' API-SL, which I found on internet research is ideal for "K" series engines. The MASS people probably do not know that all Maruti BS4s are "K" series EXCEPT Gypsy !
Moreover, 5W30 is recommended for -30 centigrade to +10 degrees only ! But they have been giving it to all customers in Calcutta, with a temperature range of 10-40 degrees centigrade !! Should I continue with the oil, or change it immediately, with maximum temperatures already at +36 ?

Which goes on to prove: when in doubt, read the ahem! user manual
From my gypsy thread. A snapshot from MG413 user manual.
Cheers!

[tejas08]

Hello everybody!

A question to the experts on the forums. I have my first paid servicing due in April. I am planning to switch from Mineral Oil to Synthetic Oil. I read the first page of this thread and it recommended and Engine Flush before switching over from Mineral Oil to Synthetic Oil.

I was reading some more articles on the internet which suggested against Engine Flushing.

This thread was started way back in 2006, so just wanted to once again confirm whether the engine flush requirement is still applicable or whether modern cars are OK with switching from Mineral to Synthetic Oil without engine flushing.

P.S.: All the other conditions for switching over are being satisfied already.
The ones like 10K-15K Kms running & Manufacturer recommended Synthetic Oils etc.

[undead]

One of my friend told me that , his friend was using Castrol Magnatec on his Scorpio and changed to John Deere oil and had satisfactory results . Anyone got experience on the John Deere oil ? (he purchased the oil from the tractor showroom as he owns a tractor )

[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by tejas08

I read the first page of this thread and it recommended and Engine Flush before switching over from Mineral Oil to Synthetic Oil.

I have never flushed. In my Esteem I switched from Synth to Mineral and back at least two times.

Originally Posted by undead

One of my friend told me that , his friend was using Castrol Magnatec on his Scorpio and changed to John Deere oil and had satisfactory results .

Why, stick with what you are happy with.

[SnakemanJohny]

Thank you all, for your opinions and advice.

I did check the MG413W manual, but considered it obsolete, only reprinted since Gypsy King MPFI first came into being, and when synthetic oils were not common in India ! And the MASS people convinced me that TOTAL QUARTZ SMC was the latest and suitable for all Marutis. Only on research later I found that it was for "K" series engines. I also discovered that SHELL HELIX has a full-synth 15W50, thus suitable for Gypsies, which this MASS (and even the dealers' workshops) did not keep as there is no demand for it -- Gypsies being so few ! They keep TOTAL QUARTZ SMC in 20 lts drums, and that works out cheaper for both the MASS and the customers.

Looks like I will have to buy full-synth from outside and change the oil. I wish I had gone in for the oil change in November last, then I could have used the thinner 30 grade till February or so, during the mild winter we have in South Bengal.

SGIITK Saab, I WANTED fully synthetic oil, but the MASS convinced me to go in for TOTAL QUARTZ semi-synth -- as mentioned in my earlier post.

Regarding engine flush, the MASS people again assured me that it was not necessary, just extra expenditure (probably they do not keep it, and would have to go to the trouble of getting it just for me !). Instead they drained the old mineral oil for hours ! I am relieved to find that others have also changed from one type of oil to another without using engine flush.

[sgiitk]

@SnakemanJohny; I am sure you need oil topping out at SAE40. SAE 30 or lower will not be all weather. Same was the case with my Santro and Accpnt. I ended up ordering Magnatec (old specs to SAE40).

[aerohit]

Originally Posted by theMAG

Finally, today evening saw me take possession of Mobil1 Supersyn 5W 50 - 4L can and Abro engine flush. Much obliged to Condor for doing the leg work. I'll get the flush added at RNS and the whole cog including draining, putting the Mobil 1 and changing the oil filter - under my hawkish nose in a couple weeks.



Cost 3000 bucks for the oil and 200 for the flush.

Replying to a very old post for a good reason..

I am shocked to see that you used 5w-50! Did you just pick it up on random or did you read it somewhere? Why 5w? you are in BLR not Leh. Unnecessarily using weaker and heavier oil.

If this was for swift 1.3, I can tell you that the best oil will be 10w-30 for indian conditions, and it doesnt even have to be synthetic!!

Again, synthetic may help if you are living in freezing conditions from sludge (but lets not get into debate), but not in tropical climate - only trying to give sensible and scientific suggestion.


If you still have the Vxi, do an ABRO once again + go for Mobil Super 10w30 (Non synthetic)- and see the results for yourself!

I think the reason your engine was silent after that oil change is because your oil was too thick and heavy (also may be because it was new car then), which will not be the case with 10w30. But just because your engine sound quite doesnt mean its fully efficient. It doesnt mean that your engine will become disturbingly loud with 10w30 just that you will "feel" it better while it operates at its optimum level.


This one-

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