[wrongturn]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

diode's function here is to force low beam to be on when high beam is switched on for H4 systems.

Looks like I will need to wire it all again
It's is my first DIY project of this kind, and I have the perfect car available for the practicals. I installed the 35w ballasts and did not wire the 55w ballasts as I was a bit skeptical about the performance of the HID relay. Would put that H4 relay to the test soon. Thanks for the help again, really appreciate it. While connecting the diode, as you said polarity matters, which end of diode should I connect to which wire, both the hi beam and low beam would be +ve.

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by wrongturn

While connecting the diode, as you said polarity matters, which end of diode should I connect to which wire, both the hi beam and low beam would be +ve.

The diode will have a silver strip, that should connect to the high beam side. Skin the insulation a bit on both low and high beam wires, do not cut the wire! Make sure you solder the diode to the wires, insulate everything and you're set.

[Epic]

graaja Dr.Naren SunnyBoi

Guys!! My electrical issues don't seem to getting resolved and it is driving me nuts.

So as mentioned earlier, I got the HID wiring kit changed to Morimoto on Sunday and upgraded the car's headlight high beam fuse to 15A. Everything worked absolutely fine. Used the car on Monday and on returning from work in the night and after say a 15-20 minute drive the high beam fuse blew again. My installer asked me to upgrade the fuse to 20A but if it blows again then not to go any further. I did the same on Tuesday night and again everything worked fine.

Now here is the weird part! Last night while driving the car again for like 15-20 minutes; both high beams failed again but this time the fuse has not blown. How do I know this? Because the high beam indicator is showing on the dash board when ever I use the stalk to flash or move it to high beam position. Unlike before, the low beams remain ON whether I move the stalk in flash position (before only RHS high beam used to work) or whether I move the stalk to high beam position (before RHS high beam used to flash for a split second and both head lights used to shut off).

Now here are my observations :

- After changing the fuses, the headlight (high & low beams) work perfectly. It is only after a certain period of time of use (15-20 minutes) do the high beam stop working which is either a blown fuse or as in the current scenario no blown fuse but no high beams.
- I feel there seems to be some shorting somewhere and I suspect it to be at the LHS projector. I am not sure though.

Anyone faced anything like this before? I feel totally helpless.

My installer coming to check again this Sunday.

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by Epic

So as mentioned earlier, I got the HID wiring kit changed to Morimoto on Sunday and upgraded the car's headlight high beam fuse to 15A. Everything worked absolutely fine. Used the car on Monday and on returning from work in the night and after say a 15-20 minute drive the high beam fuse blew again. My installer asked me to upgrade the fuse to 20A but if it blows again then not to go any further. I did the same on Tuesday night and again everything worked fine.

Where are the fuses blowing? in the car's fuse box or on the wiring harness?

Replacing a blown fuse with higher amperage fuse is a stupid and reckless move. Whenever a fuse blows you should find out the root cause not replace with higher amp fuse.

High beam solenoids consume less than one amp each projector. This is the reason despite having six projectors with high beams, I do not have a separate relay/wiring for high beam.

[Epic]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

Where are the fuses blowing? in the car's fuse box or on the wiring harness?

Replacing a blown fuse with higher amperage fuse is a stupid and reckless move. Whenever a fuse blows you should find out the root cause not replace with higher amp fuse.

High beam solenoids consume less than one amp each projector. This is the reason despite having six projectors with high beams, I do not have a separate relay/wiring for high beam.

The fuse used to blow in the car's fuse box and not the wiring harness. Yes I know when a fuse blows, it is stupid to replace it with a higher amperage. Hence my installer had asked me to increase it to 20A and if the problem persists, not to go further up as it needs to be checked.

Since a high beam solenoid consumes less than 1A per projector, why is that the fuse is blowing? Is it because something is shorting somewhere?

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by Epic

The fuse used to blow in the car's fuse box and not the wiring harness. Yes I know when a fuse blows, it is stupid to replace it with a higher amperage. Hence my installer had asked me to increase it to 20A and if the problem persists, not to go further up as it needs to be checked.

Since a high beam solenoid consumes less than 1A per projector, why is that the fuse is blowing? Is it because something is shorting somewhere?

OK there is something seriously wrong in your car's wiring harness. If the projector sheilds were faulty/shorting, fuses on the harness would blow, not the ones in the car's fuse box.

There is a fault somewhere between the fuse box and headlight connector on the car's wiring harness or on the wiring harness on the input side ( headlight connector to relay)

[Epic]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

OK there is something seriously wrong in your car's wiring harness. If the projector sheilds were faulty/shorting, fuses on the harness would blow, not the ones in the car's fuse box.

If the car wiring harness was the issue, then the H4 halogen bulbs must also not work, right? But the halogen bulbs work perfectly like they should. Also, the 20A fuse has not blown either. Shouldn't this have blown too?

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

There is a fault somewhere between the fuse box and headlight connector on the car's wiring harness or on the wiring harness on the input side ( headlight connector to relay)

Maybe I can connect the HID wiring harness to the RHS headlight connector (currently it is connected to the LHS headlight connector) and then see if this issue still persists. if it does, then we can blame the car's headlight harness.

[wrongturn]

Originally Posted by Epic

Maybe I can connect the HID wiring harness to the RHS headlight connector (currently it is connected to the LHS headlight connector) and then see if this issue still persists. if it does, then we can blame the car's headlight harness.

I think it would be better if you can first check everything on stock settings once, put the halogen back and check if everything is working as it should.
Then check evey component of the upgrade, check HIDs and projector shutters one by one, if they all work then the problem is with the HID relay harness or wiring connections. I hope you are using CANBUS ballasts.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Epic

The fuse used to blow in the car's fuse box and not the wiring harness. Yes I know when a fuse blows, it is stupid to replace it with a higher amperage. Hence my installer had asked me to increase it to 20A and if the problem persists, not to go further up as it needs to be checked.

From reading your posts something in your car's factory wiring is causing an overload or short circuit. I'd get that checked very quickly if I were you given the possibility, howsoever remote it may sound, of electrical fires under the hood. An unpleasant thought indeed. What was the amperage of the OE fuse? 10A? 15A?

All wiring in a car is designed to take a certain load and will have a small capacity buffer. For e.g. if a 10A load is standard, the wiring may take for e.g. 12-13A i.e. up to 30% more but not exceeding that. Short (pun not intended) of examining the wire strands/core for its AWG/mm2 specification there is no method of ascertaining how much load a particular wire can take.

If the installer knows how to trouble shoot ask him to perform a test. There are plenty of videos on YouTube that give a good idea on tracing and resolving automobile electrical short circuits.

My only advice to you is please get this sorted out ASAP. Ignoring the problem can lead to harness damage or worse still a fire hazard. And under no circumstance should you put in a higher fuse than you already have. It's asking for trouble.

Since a high beam solenoid consumes less than 1A per projector, why is that the fuse is blowing? Is it because something is shorting somewhere?

Depends on how the wiring has been done. Is the solenoid/relay powered through the car's electrical harness **AND** triggered by the headlamp switch? Or, is the relay connected directly to the battery and only uses the car's headlamp circuit to trigger power to the new bulbs? You'll need to ask the guy who fitted the kit.

[Mafioso]

Originally Posted by anandkumargb

Need some advise -

I have a Skoda Rapid Black edition with projector headlamps. I feel the lights aren't powerful. What are my affordable options for upgrading?

Can I install 90/100 relay and bulbs?

Thanks
GB Anand

Yes you can install the 90/100 bulbs with relay and ceramic bulb holders! I have done it for high beam on my Skoda (low beam is currently on stock, but with a ceramic holder). It is way better on highway with this setup, if you are not looking to spend on HID kit

[Epic]

Originally Posted by wrongturn

I think it would be better if you can first check everything on stock settings once, put the halogen back and check if everything is working as it should.

The thing is that this issue started on the day of install of the projectors itself. But, the halogens were working perfectly. It was suspected to be a faulty projector which was changed and then a faulty HID wiring harness which was changed too. However during this time the installer did some jugaad and made the RHS projector connection directly to car's OEM wiring and that projector worked perfectly. But the LHS projector seemed to keep blowing the fuse.

Now I have got the HID harness changed to Morimoto and everything was working fine initially but this issue started again. The thing is that it does not blow the fuse immediately but after 15-20 mins of driving.

Originally Posted by wrongturn

Then check evey component of the upgrade, check HIDs and projector shutters one by one, if they all work then the problem is with the HID relay harness or wiring connections. I hope you are using CANBUS ballasts.

The individual shutters are working correctly. This was checked before installing the new Morimoto harness. I also doubt that the harness relay is the issue but will recheck.

My car being 2011 I do not think it is CANBUS as I do not get errors if bulbs are out. But yes, the ballasts are CANBUS.

Originally Posted by R2D2

From reading your posts something in your car's factory wiring is causing an overload or short circuit. I'd get that checked very quickly if I were you given the possibility, howsoever remote it may sound, of electrical fires under the hood. An unpleasant thought indeed. What was the amperage of the OE fuse? 10A? 15A?

All the reason for my numerous posts in this thread to identify the issue. I know it is a serious matter and attending to it on priority.

OE fuse was 10A. Was upgraded to 15A which kept blowing. Now it is 20A which has not blown but high beams not functioning either.

Originally Posted by wrongturn

And under no circumstance should you put in a higher fuse than you already have. It's asking for trouble.

I fortunately have a good installer who has also advised to not increase the fuse amperes anymore and coming this Sunday to identify and sort the issue.

Originally Posted by wrongturn

Depends on how the wiring has been done. Is the solenoid/relay powered through the car's electrical harness **AND** triggered by the headlamp switch? Or, is the relay connected directly to the battery and only uses the car's headlamp circuit to trigger power to the new bulbs? You'll need to ask the guy who fitted the kit.

The HID harness is connected to the car's LHS headlight connector.

[wrongturn]

Originally Posted by Epic

The HID harness is connected to the car's LHS headlight connector.

HID harness would be connected to the H4 socket and to the +ve terminal of the battery. What I think is that some how the hi and low beam are getting short and which in result is shorting the fuse.
I did the projector retrofitting yesterday and the wiring of HID was very simple and straight forward, the hard part was installing the projectors. Please take a look at one of those several youtube videos explaining how to wire these properly maybe you will be able to isolate the reason for malfunction that way.

[R2D2]

@epic, this leads me to two possibilities:

a) There's a wiring issue with how the auxiliary wiring (custom harness) has been connected to the car's OE headlamp harness and battery. The car's OE socket should only be used only as a trigger for the relay, not the power feed. The power feed is straight from the battery via a 10-15A fuse. The inline fuse should be <12" from the +ve battery terminal.

b) A defective component in the setup for e.g. maybe the ballast or even the harness?

These are mostly plug-and-play installations if you follow the instructions. A fuse that blows regularly would point to one of the issues above.

Good luck in resolving the issue. Hope you get this working ASAP.

[Epic]

Originally Posted by wrongturn

HID harness would be connected to the H4 socket and to the +ve terminal of the battery.

My current connection is done exactly as mentioned above.

Originally Posted by wrongturn

What I think is that some how the hi and low beam are getting short and which in result is shorting the fuse.

This could be correct. But the question is where exactly is the shorting happening? I strongly suspect the shorting is at the LHS projector. But can confirm this when my installer checks this tomorrow. If this is the case, I suppose my headlight will have to be opened again

Originally Posted by R2D2

@epic, this leads me to two possibilities:

a) There's a wiring issue with how the auxiliary wiring (custom harness) has been connected to the car's OE headlamp harness and battery. The car's OE socket should only be used only as a trigger for the relay, not the power feed. The power feed is straight from the battery via a 10-15A fuse. The inline fuse should be <12" from the +ve battery terminal.

The projector setup was done by Xenon Planet (XP) and this issue had cropped up from the day of install itself. In the bid to solve it, their installer did some 'jugaad' where he spliced the RHS OE headlight wire and connected the RHS projector directly to that connector, which was wrong. Hence I have never had an issue with the RHS projector. It was always the high beam of the LHS projector which kept failing and blowing the fuse.

Since I did not want XP to screw up the wiring any further, I got a new wiring kit from Morimoto (better quality than the XP wiring Kit) and got my installer to install it the right way. However, the issue still persists which makes me believe there is an issue with the LHS projector or something to do with the LHS of the car.

Originally Posted by R2D2

b) A defective component in the setup for e.g. maybe the ballast or even the harness?

This will be checked tomorrow.

Originally Posted by R2D2

These are mostly plug-and-play installations if you follow the instructions. A fuse that blows regularly would point to one of the issues above.

Yes they are plug n play but XP did not do it that way and spliced my OE wiring.

[JMaruru]

I bought these clip on LEDs from JC Road a month back for the instrument panel of my 2001 Alto, and now they are conked off. They were good(white light) when they worked!!

Are there any better quality LEDs available for this particular use? I just need couple of them, of clip on types and I should be good.

Please advise!!