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The Baleno Alpha has those Osram 25w D8S bulbs (roughtly 2000 lumens.) I am not happy with their power. Has anyone tried so see if D1S bulbs fit in them and how to change the ballasts? I am sure the lights will do much better after with atleast 35w and approx 3000 lumens.

I'm having a Yamaha Ray Z and the stock bulb is HS1 35W.

Will it cause any damage to the electrical system if I install it in place of 35W? The scooter is having 5 years of warranty.

Attaching few pics of the Rally 100/90W bulb cover; even though the cover doesnt clearly mention who is the manufacturer, it says imported by and warranted by Lumileds; where as an Extreme vision bulb has imported and warranted by Philips itself.




Verified as Philips original product






The wiring kit is also genuine Philips one (but again from Lumileds). I've checked the connectors, ceramic holders etc. Car is now running on one Philips and one Osram, lets see which one lasts more.

Their Wikipedia page states that Lumileds was formed as a joint venture between Philips and another company.
Like Philips, Lumiled's headquarters is also in Amsterdam, Netherlands.

Philips later acquired it and Lumileds became a unit within Philips lighting itself.
Though they have sold a large portion of their stakes in lumileds to some other affiliates recently, the article says that Philips still continues to hold 20% stake in Lumileds.

That means Lumileds was ( and is ) pretty much a Philips owned unit itself.
So I think that there is nothing much to worry about Lumileds being mentioned as the importer on their bulb's pack.

Source- Wikipedia

Adding 5W extra load on the electrical system hardly matters. Hence, there should not be any drastic effects. Worst case if you are unfortunate that something fails, just swap back the OE bulb and take it to the service center.

There is a difference between the quality of earlier Rally and this one. Both in terms of bulb finishing and the light output. The earlier Rallys were the best in my experience. However, this one is better than the Osram 100/90. The Osram 100/90 was hardly an upgrade. After my initial set of Rally fused out, I used Osram since it claimed to be made in Germany. However, at multiple instances I have walked to the front of my car to check if they were actually 100/90 or I had got 60/55W by mistake stupid:

After that I switched to Rally in these orange coloured boxes. Definitely better than Osram, but the Original Rally still is a legend.

Will it fry my reflectors due to heat :D

Is this one that you are referring to: https://www.amazon.in/Philips-Rally-...ly+h4+100%2F90

What I am trying to say is that the quality of these bulbs are inferior to what is been sold directly by Philips. The moment you take the bulbs in your hand, you will realize it; Compare just the fit and finish with an extreme vision bulb, you will feel its cheap. Thats the difference between a 'Philips' one and a 'Lumileds' one.

I used a pair of extreme vision bulbs in the same car for 4.5 years (and way above the Philips claimed 400 hours life) before switching to these Rally bulbs. I cant really comment whether its the bulb or the wiring which is causing the bulbs to fuse fast; but both are Lumileds products; not Philips.

Bump.

Any inputs in this? D8S is exclusively a 25w system and none of the renowned brands make this bulb/kit in 35W. Apparently this is due to DOT rules abroad that say cars with 35W HID should have auto leveling and headlight washer (read expense for manufacturers.) Hence this solution.

I want to shift to 35W HID. Can the gurus suggest anything?

I recently received my first pair of car headlight LED bulbs. The first impression are here:
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...ml#post4347783

Next morning, I installed both the bulbs and waited anxiously for the darkness to fall, but as the fate would have it I was down with the flu by the evening. I never knew karma would punish me with fever for installing the LED bulbs or was it because I judged them too early without even giving them any chance to prove themselves.

Tonight at around 9PM I felt that I was alright enough to go for a short drive. So asked a friend to come along and begin our search of a dark or dimly lit street and the best we could find for tonight was this and that's how it looked with car headlights completely off.


This is low beam, notice the cut off line, although no where near what can be termed as sharp, it still does exist. Also look how with absolute awe that gentleman is staring at the headlights.


This is high beam, and it is as bright in the darkness as a thunder bolt (same color too), the gentleman who was staring at the headlights a moment ago, vaporized into the thin air as he couldn't face the pure awesomeness.


Now it was time to check whether it will blind the oncoming mortals with candle lights with its supreme brightness which can even vaporize a curios human being. The windshield was not the cleanest and the cameraman was not in his fittest, so please don't mind.


This is low beam, and the focus is set right onto the driver side headlight. You might call it a glare but in all honesty it wasn't too bad to be considered as a glare at all. Pictures don't do justice here, or may be I did not take the picture like it should have been captured because to the naked eyes it seemed pretty acceptable.


The menacing high beam, this is where all the hell breaks loose, you are staring right into the eyes of the monster and there is nothing else but the darkness surrounding it. There it's just too much brightness, I wish I knew a word that exaggerate brightness it was that bright for a simple car headlight.


Even when I got out the result was pretty much the same. And I could personally tell you that it is really too bright to look at head on.


Driving Experience
As it was it's first little test on it's complete potential I was very carefully reading every little response given out by the other vehicles and hoping to find a few high beamers, I was indeed glad I found quite a few of them.
On Low Beam
Headlight was set at 1 on the level scale of 0-3. Almost non of the oncoming traffic showed any signs of discomfort, or like they were bothered by the glare or too much brightness.

These LED lights are 6500K, even a M800 Alto with modest halogens of color temperature 3000K or thereabouts was casting it's yellow color over these.
But, one thing I did notice was that in case of oncoming high beamers I could for once see light on my path, I could see road better. In past with even the best of halogens, it wasn't the case, it just used to go dark all around and only the road on the left bank would remain faintly visible. This could also be because of the fact that I had too much attention and focus on this short drive.

On High Beams
There is light everywhere, on road, nearby trees, on houses along the road and on their first floor balconies. You feel illuminated lol:
And as I was happily cruising along appreciating and enjoying the LED headlights performance, all that joy was stolen by a beam of light and it was a high beam. It was the first of the test subject and the car was a 2011-13 white Wagon R. Flashed twice may be and he dipped his lights to low beam immediately. Next example is of a complete imbecile, this time it was a Swift and he banked to the left slowy but did not change to low beam. The full high beam treatment was given to a notorious TATA 407 driver on a non crowded road, he not only dipped it to low but also slowed down as a result. It simply jolts it's victim like a thunder bolt. Everyone responded to the high beam flashes and I mean everyone, in one way or another.



LED vs HID
• These H4 LED Headlight bulbs are specifically made for a halogen housing. The functioning principal is similar. The low beam glare is still lower than something like a 100/90 halogen bulb. But, there are no HID bulbs that can imitate the halogen bulb effectively, no matter what you try there will be too much glare for the oncoming traffic. The transition from low to high beam is instant in case of LEDs.
• LED bulbs like a halogen bulb has a single point of failure, the whole bulb itself, whereas in case of the HID either the relay or the ballast or the bulb could fail, so atleast 3 components that can fail instead of one whole.
• LED bulbs are waterproof but in case of HIDs, though I have used waterproof ballasts I have never came across waterproof bulbs.
• Installation and adjustment is simple and easy of LEDs when compared to the only effective and complicated HID Bi-Xenon projector Installation.
• High heat generated by HIDs can burn the halogen housing if at all used as such, thus projectors are very compulsory still even if one doesn't care about blinding oncoming traffic.
• All said and done there still remains the fact that HIDs currently are the best available source for car headlights, a 55W HID in a good projector housing is simply better than any top of the line aftermarket LED halogen housing headlight bulbs. But the future is LEDs for sure.
• The bling factor of LEDs is 100% but not so much in performance. In extreme situations one might regret choosing these even over halogens. That said, I will wait for the ordered 3000K bulb to arrive before giving any further opinions.
• If your car is in warranty period than it is better to use a LED bulb as a replacement for halogen as it's a plug and play setup, no wiring harnesses or any sort of relay is required. You can install the halogen back in under 5 minutes without any hassles.
• No matter what you choose always keep a spare pair of halogen headlight bulbs in your car at all times. Neither the aftermarket LEDs nor the HIDs are as trustworthy as the good old halogen bulb.

Disclaimer: I did not drive on high beam at any point except when really required. No one was really forced to dip there headlight beams only 2-3 flashes were made to check the reactions, except for one time during the TATA 407 incident. No birds, animals or humans were harmed during this small test, except that the current whereabouts of the gentleman staring at the headlights remains unknown.

Nothing is available for D8S. D5S and D8S are very compact systems which run on 25W. S-Cross has D5S bulbs and Morimoto has got plug and play 35W D5S bulbs. It's better to wait and watch, hope they get even for D8S.

Did you buy these bulbs from AliExpress?
If so, can you please share the link, as I’m interested in getting these to upgrade the halogens on my Tata Nano.
I suffer the wrath of bigger cars when they don’t bother switching to low beam while I’m constantly flashing from the opposite direction.
Also, can you post some pictures of how you installed the bulbs & if any modifications were done to accommodate the bulb perfectly?

I could only find the Osram D8S Xenarc when I looked up this specific bulb type online, Doctor Sahab.
Is this the OEM bulb used in the Baleno 1.2/1.3 Alpha?

Osram D8S bulb is the OE in Baleno Alpha. It is just 25W.

Have a look here

I am finally going the HID way for the high beams on my Innova Crysta 2.4 Z, as I find them lacking & not sufficient enough on unlit highways.
I have already tried replacing the bulb to the Osram NBU, but I was still not satisfied with the light output.
It’d be wonderful if the gurus could answer a few questions that I have.

• Do I need a relay harness while installing a 35W HID kit? If so, what are the advantages of installing one?
• Will a 35W kit be enough, or should I look for 55W alternatives?
• I’ve never installed an HB3 HID kit before, so I wanted to know if this is the right method to install one?
• Since all the other lights on the car are 6000K LED ones, I really want to go for the same colour temperature. How much of a percentage decrease in light output am I looking at when I choose 6000K over 4300K?
• Since HIDs take a while to get to their full brightness after pulling the headlight stalk, will any LED bulb be as bright as the HIDs?

All suggestions & tips are most welcome, BHPians.
:)

You haven't mentioned the brand name anywhere.
I searched your first post also, but couldn't find the brand name there too.

Your own words just speaks for itself how much light scattering there is, and how terrible a glare it is to the oncoming side.

A few pages back on this same thread, I had shared a short review of my disappointing experience with insanely expensive Philips Ultinon H4 LEDs .

Believe me, retro-fitting LEDs in halogen reflectors is more of a hit-or-miss thing.
And there is no escaping from the light-scatter and glare problem, even in the best retro-fitted LEDs in halogen reflectors.

Philips claims to be the least in glare & scatter compared to all those chinese H4 LEDs, but in my experience even Philips had considerable glare, and I can imagine how much glare the other cheaper ones would be creating.

On dark narrow streets inside the city limits, the high-beam may seem to be all-illuminating, with so much of light scatter everywhere including tree-tops.
But take it to the open highway and you will realize how useless that high-beam is.
As there are fewer obstacles on highway for the scattered light to reflect back to us, majority of the unfocused light gets scattered to infinity instead of illuminating anything ahead.
Also whatever remaining focused white light is there on the road, gets submerged by other normal yellow-halogens frequently.
You will wonder where did all that superb brightness go, once you reach the highway.
Atleast that is what I felt from my experience.
Slightly disgaree here.If it is warranty period, and you have only halogen reflectors in your car, and no projectors, you better refrain from retro-fitting LEDs.
Plug-n-play halogen upgrades like Philips XtremeVision or Rally is still your best and safest bet.