[sgiitk]

@sohail99; How does 'blue' light reconcile with fogs. Physics tells us that longer wavelengths (redder/yellower) scatter less, and thus penetrate fog better. In fact my main issue with LEDs is that they tend to be 'bluish'.

[prkiran]

Originally Posted by audioholic

Hi Kiran, check if the headlight levelling function is still working on the headlight... SNIP.. uppermost position and vice versa will help get the job done easier and quicker.

Thank you for the beautifully detailed response! Did exactly this; found that one of the plastic brackets into which the reflector locks into position had broken. Since I was not feeling very confident in fixing it, took the help of an FNG. Now need to work on getting the leveling right. Will probably do that over the weekend.

[outdoorlover]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

@sohail99; How does 'blue' light reconcile with fogs. Physics tells us that longer wavelengths (redder/yellower) scatter less, and thus penetrate fog better. In fact my main issue with LEDs is that they tend to be 'bluish'.

I think we get a wide range of colour temperatures in LED lamps these days and temperatures in the 3000K and lower tend to be quite warm /yellowish.

[sohail99]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

@sohail99; How does 'blue' light reconcile with fogs. Physics tells us that longer wavelengths (redder/yellower) scatter less, and thus penetrate fog better. In fact my main issue with LEDs is that they tend to be 'bluish'.

The 'blue' light of the LEDs that you see in the pictures could be due to a lot of parameters related to the camera, mostly color temperature. Like, if the projector is of a relatively lower color temp(if halogen) which is tuned to look white, the LEDs will relatively look blue.

Practically, you might not notice the difference at all with naked eye.
The actual halogen for fog light in the picture, is adjacent to the LED DRLs and that should work as per OEM standards.

Also, DRLs(Daytime Running Lights) are meant for daytime use for more apparent appearance and recognition of the vehicle sporting them, by oncoming vehicles and is not for road illumination of any sort or there as a driver aid.
That is why in most vehicles, whenever you turn on the parking lights, the DRLs are designed to dim(as they can be as annoying as high beams at night if left at full brightness(as they are essentially flood lights if we see its beam pattern)

Most aftermarket DRLs like Philips come with that option where you can wire your parking lights to the DRL driver/relay so that whenever you turn on your park lights, the DRLs turn off.


Usually, OEMs use 4300K or max 5000K color temps for LEDs in DRLs.

But, aftermarket, no name brand ones tend to use 6000K to 8000K color temp LEDs with minimal heatsinking as they are cheaper.

(note that the life of the LEDs is dependent on how they are driven(ideally should be under-driven than their max drive current, I hope OEMs follow this!) (Cheap brands tend to overdrive cheap LEDs to get them to light brighter, at the cost of life) and heatsinking (the better the heatsinking(the hotter it is while driving the LEDs, the better it is working) it will complement the longer lifetime of the LEDs)

And yes, there are a range of LEDs in different color temps, if you are looking for such.

[sgiitk]

I deliberately refrained from using colour temperature for LEDs. Remember the term colour temperature refers to 'black body radiation' and not to single wavelength or band spectra. @sohail99; You misread my post, I was referring to Fogs and not other types of lights.

Even in projectors use of colour temperature is strictly a misnomer. The discharge is in ultraviolet and then a phosphor (gas here) is used to convert it to visible. The spectrum temps to be a band spectrum.

Colour temperature is strictly valid for incandescent lights, incl. halogen. So with HIDs are LEDs the term is more a matter of perception.

I am not seeing any advts of LEDs with warmer temperatures.

[sohail99]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

I deliberately refrained from using colour temperature for LEDs. Remember the term colour temperature refers to 'black body radiation' and not to single wavelength or band spectra. @sohail99; You misread my post, I was referring to Fogs and not other types of lights.

Even in projectors use of colour temperature is strictly a misnomer. The discharge is in ultraviolet and then a phosphor (gas here) is used to convert it to visible. The spectrum temps to be a band spectrum.

Colour temperature is strictly valid for incandescent lights, incl. halogen. So with HIDs are LEDs the term is more a matter of perception.

I am not seeing any advts of LEDs with warmer temperatures.

I agree with you that color temps in this case is mentioned more for convenience of understanding color tone with the help of a pre-existing classification system.

You will find white LEDs with warmer temps under 'warm-white'.
Do let me know what are you looking for exactly(Automotive or household applications?)

Me personally am looking for automotive LED pnps with both cool white and warm white outputs, whenever I need to switch

[akshay380]

Guys I have finalized on fitting osram NB Laser H7 bulbs on Fiesta. Any other options?

[samkat1]

That's the best option as far as I can think of.

[sgiitk]

@sohail99; I am extensively using warm white LEDs in the house. In fact I do not like the colder colours in the home. So natural Daylight or Cool Daylight are out. All my CFLs were also 2700K. I think my first CFL was bought around 2001 when I was in the IITK Campus. The Osram thing was about ₹950 or so!

However, the 'sarkari' LEDs do not cater to the warmer colours.

[suzuki san]

Hi uys,

Need some help from the experts.

Have had a couple of close calls in the last week whereby I missed seeing dark coloured cattle in the middle of the road. It was dark (no street lights) and it had rained recently so the headlights were not really effective. This is in Goa where I usually drive a Nano fitted with Phillips Extreme Vision bulbs. Normally they are pretty good but in the rains, I need something better.

Decided to go the 90/100W way (Phillips Rally H4) with a relay and proper wiring but they were a huge disappointment. The bulbs were actually taking time to come on (couple of seconds from low to high beam) and the visibility was worse than before.
Went back to the shop the next day to have them removed and the old bulbs re-installed. The shop owner seems to think it is due to the small battery in the Nano being unable to cope with load of the 90/100 bulbs.

So, what are my options now? I was thinking about fitting Hella auxiliary lights (55W) but am now in two minds as to whether they will work as they should or suffer from the same "Nano has a small battery" issue.

I don't mind changing the battery to one with a larger capacity but am not sure what the outcome of this would be on the alternator and other electrical systems.

Any advice would be much appreciated as I am now really concerned about driving at night.

Thanks.
SS

[sohail99]

Originally Posted by suzuki san

Hi uys,

Need some help from the experts.

Have had a couple of close calls in the last week whereby I missed seeing dark coloured cattle in the middle of the road. It was dark (no street lights) and it had rained recently so the headlights were not really effective. This is in Goa where I usually drive a Nano fitted with Phillips Extreme Vision bulbs. Normally they are pretty good but in the rains, I need something better.

Decided to go the 90/100W way (Phillips Rally H4) with a relay and proper wiring but they were a huge disappointment. The bulbs were actually taking time to come on (couple of seconds from low to high beam) and the visibility was worse than before.
Went back to the shop the next day to have them removed and the old bulbs re-installed. The shop owner seems to think it is due to the small battery in the Nano being unable to cope with load of the 90/100 bulbs.

So, what are my options now? I was thinking about fitting Hella auxiliary lights (55W) but am now in two minds as to whether they will work as they should or suffer from the same "Nano has a small battery" issue.

I don't mind changing the battery to one with a larger capacity but am not sure what the outcome of this would be on the alternator and other electrical systems.

Any advice would be much appreciated as I am now really concerned about driving at night.

Thanks.
SS

Something like an LED light bar or LED aux lights would be better.
Do check out their lumen/watt output.

It wont be as taxing for the battery/alternator as well if driven efficiently, so go for name brands only.

Here's a review by tsk for research purposes - http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifi...light-bar.html

[suresh_gs]

Folks

A query. Not sure if this is the right thread to post the same. Do we have headlights grills for Santro xing something similar to 2 wheeler headlight grills (Like what we have for Royal Enfield). I am based in Bangalore.

[akshay380]

Originally Posted by suzuki san

Hi uys,

I live in Goa (Margao) and planning to switch to Osram NB for the exact reason, read cows . Let me know what you decide regarding Aux lights or LED bars.

[Motard_Blr]

Originally Posted by suzuki san

Hi uys,

...It was dark (no street lights) and it had rained recently so the headlights were not really effective. This is in Goa where I usually drive a Nano fitted with Phillips Extreme Vision bulbs. Normally they are pretty good but in the rains, I need something better.

You can try all weather bulbs. They look golden and give a slightly yellowish light. That gives better visibility in poor weather.

See:

Originally Posted by sgiitk

@sohail99; How does 'blue' light reconcile with fogs. Physics tells us that longer wavelengths (redder/yellower) scatter less, and thus penetrate fog better. In fact my main issue with LEDs is that they tend to be 'bluish'.

Decided to go the 90/100W way (Phillips Rally H4) with a relay and proper wiring but they were a huge disappointment. The bulbs were actually taking time to come on (couple of seconds from low to high beam) and the visibility was worse than before.
Went back to the shop the next day to have them removed and the old bulbs re-installed. The shop owner seems to think it is due to the small battery in the Nano being unable to cope with load of the 90/100 bulbs.

Other people have used 90/100 W bulbs on the Nano with good results. The symptoms sound like a wiring problem; most likely a poor ground connection. Maybe the ground wire was not connected to the right place.

So, what are my options now? I was thinking about fitting Hella auxiliary lights (55W) but am now in two minds as to whether they will work as they should or suffer from the same "Nano has a small battery" issue.

Try the 90/100W bulbs again. Get a good mechanic to have a look at the wiring this time.

I don't mind changing the battery to one with a larger capacity but am not sure what the outcome of this would be on the alternator and other electrical systems.

If the battery is almost due for replacement, go ahead with an upgrade. The Nano uses a unique size battery and is actually more expensive than a slightly larger capacity battery that is more common (38b20 size). It will work well and will also give you some reserve capacity.

[suzuki san]

Originally Posted by akshay380

I live in Goa (Margao) and planning to switch to Osram NB for the exact reason, read cows . Let me know what you decide regarding Aux lights or LED bars.

Hi Akshay,

I have tried Osram NB in the past and not been at all impressed. Maybe the Osram NB Plus (or Unlimited or whatever they are called) are better.

Are there any decent car accessory shops in Margao? I live in North Goa and only have the shops at Porvorim who are not really interested in solving one's problem. A sort of "Take it or Leave it" attitude.

Can you recommend any shop in Panjim or Margao specialising in electrics with a stock of auxiliary lights?

Please PM me if you do.

I am thinking of going the LED way though I hate the look of the LED bars on a car. HID spots are another option. Let's see.

Regards,
SS