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@condor; In my civic the connectors going into the foglight bulbs will not fit the ballasts, to had to be changed to the proper connectors. Looked about the same but the pitch was about 5mm out.
I'm looking for Autopal H4 P43T base 100/55. Yes you read it right its 100W for high and 55W for low. I'm looking for this bulb only as its street legal with good power at your disposal for highway runs. Also the lower 55W wont heat the headlamp housing as much as a 90W low beam of 100/90 bulb which is available with almost all the vendors. I tried to check with local Autolite dealer Mr. Nirmit Shah in Vadodara firstly he wasn't sure if such wattage exist and then passed him the link and he expressed his inability to get the same as im an end user and he needs to place an order for min 100 pieces with the company and he is not ready to place it because of low demand.
http://www.autopal.com/products_detail.php?pID=252
Could somebody please help me to source them in Vadodara/Surat/Bharuch/Ankleshwar/Valsad/Vapi/Daman.
Or suggest an alternative as I'm highly sceptical about putting 100/90 in my old Dzire housing as this much power in low beam could darken it.
Any help will be highly appreciated.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sgiitk
(Post 3923989)
In my civic the connectors going into the foglight bulbs will not fit the ballasts, to had to be changed to the proper connectors. Looked about the same but the pitch was about 5mm out.
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Are you trying bulbs meant for Low-beam / High-beam, to be fit into the fog lamps ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ankit82
(Post 3924093)
I'm looking for Autopal H4 P43T base 100/55. Yes you read it right its 100W for high and 55W for low.
Or suggest an alternative as I'm highly sceptical about putting 100/90 in my old Dzire housing as this much power in low beam could darken it.
Any help will be highly appreciated.
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THE WORLD USES 100/90!! At least the Indian world. lol: It's ok. Don't panic. 100/90 never did anyone or any reflector any harm. And if ever it did, that reflector sure would be a spurious one!
So don't sweat. Go for 100/90 and be happy. The blackened headlights could very much be caused by any higher wattage rating bulbs though. Like 130/100, for example. So that is mostly causing these rumors. You should be driving a truck for that much power anyway. Rather go in for HID's if you are that much power hungry, no? But you know how it is. Have money, will buy, kind of folks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by condor
(Post 3924167)
Are you trying bulbs meant for Low-beam / High-beam, to be fit into the fog lamps ?
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No, a proper single filament / discharge which was a direct replacement for the H11. From what I saw on the web, the were just putting the H11connector into the ballast. After wasting over an hour i realized the pitch was different. There I cut and soldered the wire, now I have 3M connectors which allow you to piggy back two wires. So today there will be no cutting. Many after market fitments come with these connectors, which the guys just scrap. So you may be able to get from your friendly car accessory chap.
You can find the experience at #189 on my ownership thread
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...silver-13.html
@SG, Checked your post - Did you already have projectors in there, or did you use the HID's without projectors ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by condor
(Post 3924361)
@SG, Checked your post - Did you already have projectors in there, or did you use the HID's without projectors ?
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Originally there were 35W halogens. I replaced with 55W 3000K HIDs and Hylux ballasts. Except for the pitch issue it went very smoothly. Later (with the replacement ballast) I have bolted the Ballasts to the bumper inside frame where there were two existing tapped holes. Serendipity. No relay wiring kit (I still have it), no fuse changes.
Question still un-answered :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by condor
(Post 3924829)
Question still un-answered
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Looking at the pictures post and the link to post #189 by Sgiitk, the HID seems to be added in regular reflector setup and not with projectors.
Guys, would you recommend the Philips X-Treme Ultinon H4 instead of HID & projector setup? I mean, it costs half as much as projectors along with HID's and I can also do with 50% improvement over regular halogen. Thoughts?
Link to the product:
http://www.philips.co.in/c-p/12953BW...-lamp/overview
@condor; The OE fogs do not normally have a focused beam, so no projectors. My car came with fogs (Honda Civic V), and just the bulb/lamp was changed (and ballast added for HID). The wattage was increased from 35 to 55 and the colour is now 3000K. In hindsight 2700K may have been even better.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sridhar-v
(Post 3925618)
These are just 1000 lumens or so. Also the heatsink seems too small. No great advantage over a halogen, let aside competing with a good xenon. Splurge on a good morimoto setup.
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Thanks! I guess I'll go with the Morimoto HID/Projector setup in this case. Seems to be the best bet.
Can someone enlighten me on the following
1. How to differentiate between AC and DC ballast?
2. How to differentiate between CAN bus and non-CAN bus ballast?
3. Few ballasts doesn't come with external igniters means those have igniters within the ballast housing itself?
4. Is a genuine Hyluxtex K50 55W ballast is a AC or DC one?
Quote:
Originally Posted by joybhowmik
(Post 3819779)
Thanks ! The fuse between the battery and relay - was a typo error!!
I agree with your suggestions.
I checked R3's manual - and it's good news - the engine compartment houses the high beam fuse (15 A).
So, assuming that it's upstream of the stalk switch (and therefore always hot) I decided to use that as the Power In for the wireless controller through a fuse tap. That means no fiddling around in the ignition barrel or even taking the control wire into the cabin.
Considering all the suggestions above, and the decision ^^^ - I have revised the plan... Please take a look - and let me know if this looks more reasonable? Attachment 1424259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SunnyBoi
(Post 3819888)
The fuse points are usually not hot, Stalks are connected to relays which are then connected to the fuses so that stalks don't have the bear the brunt of high current flowing through them.
Anyways, I suggest you tap it from parking light fuse. That way, lights can come on if and only if the parking lights are on. That's how I had wired mine.
Rest looks perfect :thumbs up
If the BOM crosses 700-800rs, just get a Hella Headlight wiring harness, chop off the end connectors and wire them to the aux lamps. You'll have the flexibility of having dual channels but only one can be used.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n.devdath
(Post 3826590)
Would you be willing to drive to Green Park?
If yes, let me know and I know someone who will get the job done with "puri emaandaari"..!! 
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Electricals apart, the whole exercise had been an armchair exercise browsing the internet. So I bit the bullet, and took up Devdath's suggestion to visit a favored installer (by many BHPians of the area including the respected late GD1418 - may his soul RIP).
I was looking for spot lights to be mounted beneath the license plate on the black grille (see
pic)- that would help me drive on not so great surfaces at night. Key to the use case was really long throw.
Mr Batra showed me the following "projector" lamp and left me :Shockked:
He demonstrated this - at the workshop - but it was difficult to figure out the true throw because of day-light. None-the-less , he seemed to believe this would work for my requirement - a point I was not willing to spend time arguing about - for the simple reason that specifications belie his claims.
Anyway, once back in my armchair, I browsed some more and came across the Micro DE Xenon lamps which promise a better throw.
The comparison is available in this PDF
Hella Lamps.pdf
The other thing that got my goat, was the suggestion from Mr. Batra to
cut the black grille in order to make space for the lamps!:eek:
Apparently that would allow the "projector" fog to sit flush with the grille.
I would have been happier had he shown me a mounting method that involved a pair of projector lamps protruding outside the grille, anchored on a mounting bracket, and secured with anti-theft nuts.
Secondly, while aliexpress can send me the radio control switch , however , I am wondering if one can have a better OEM experience by using one of these.
Thus my project continues to be on hold.
P.S. Instead of the wiring shown in my earlier post, I have (almost) decided on an original Hella harness, to which I would only add the shunt wire from Alternator to Battery as BD sir has recommended somewhere.
Source of images: Hella and Mahindra
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