Team-BHP - Auto Lighting thread : Post all queries about automobile lighting here

Quote:

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi (Post 3819437)

I meant the fuse between the battery and relay. Its marked as 10A in your picture.

The fuses before aux lamps serve no purpose. Even if there is a short circuit at the bulb, the first fuse to trip will be the one closest to the current source, i.e., the fuse between the battery terminal and relay. Others in the line will probably never blow at all and hence I mentioned its not required.

I prefer a fuse splitter. It gives the option of adding a fuse then and there. Using a scotchlock connector the insulation at one po9int of the wire would be punctured, it is not really a problem but I prefer fuse splitters.

Thanks ! The fuse between the battery and relay - was a typo error!!
I agree with your suggestions.
I checked R3's manual - and it's good news - the engine compartment houses the high beam fuse (15 A).
So, assuming that it's upstream of the stalk switch (and therefore always hot) I decided to use that as the Power In for the wireless controller through a fuse tap. That means no fiddling around in the ignition barrel or even taking the control wire into the cabin.

Considering all the suggestions above, and the decision ^^^ - I have revised the plan... Please take a look - and let me know if this looks more reasonable?

Auto Lighting thread : Post all queries about automobile lighting here-wiring-diagram.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by joybhowmik (Post 3819779)

I checked R3's manual - and it's good news - the engine compartment houses the high beam fuse (15 A).
So, assuming that it's upstream of the stalk switch (and therefore always hot) I decided to use that as the Power In for the wireless controller through a fuse tap. That means no fiddling around in the ignition barrel or even taking the control wire into the cabin.

Considering all the suggestions above, and the decision ^^^ - I have revised the plan... Please take a look - and let me know if this looks more reasonable?

The fuse points are usually not hot, Stalks are connected to relays which are then connected to the fuses so that stalks don't have the bear the brunt of high current flowing through them.

Anyways, I suggest you tap it from parking light fuse. That way, lights can come on if and only if the parking lights are on. That's how I had wired mine.

Rest looks perfect :thumbs up

If the BOM crosses 700-800rs, just get a Hella Headlight wiring harness, chop off the end connectors and wire them to the aux lamps. You'll have the flexibility of having dual channels but only one can be used.

Hello everyone. Two years back I upgraded the lights to a projector+hid setup (manufacturer xenon) from Two brothers lajpat nagar, New Delhi. They worked perfectly fine for a month or two. After that, they started going off whenever I hit a pothole or there's sudden vibration in the car. They work fine after they are restarted. I have tried consulting some electricians but never got convincing answers. I am very fed up with this issue. It's very difficult for me to travel long distances at night. What could be the issue? Please help.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shivanshu (Post 3819415)

Hello friends, I want to add on fog lights to my Swift VDI. I am confused as my budget is around 5k only. I tried looking for Cree but it was expensive, Hella I am not sure. Also I wanted to know where and how to mount it in front. I want to get it done this month only as I would be driving around for few days and it will be foggy as well, hence need help.

Also I would appreciate if someone can guide me where to get it done in Delhi/NCR region preferrably Noida or Ghaziabad. Thank you

You can fabricate mounts on the crossbar.Below attached two pictures of my car.For wiring you can buy the Hella wiring Harness or a good headlamp relay with wiring.With a 5K budget you can opt for Hella 500ff.
PS-These are the old mounts as i was using the Hella comet 500.I changed to a more beefier ones to support the new ones.

Does anyone know from where I can procure anti theft nuts for my aux lights?

Quote:

Originally Posted by rakesh_r (Post 3820765)

Thanks for the details and the pictures, it does answer a lot of questions. So Hella 500ff - how the illumination of that light, and is their any vibration if it is fixed the way its done on your car?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shivanshu (Post 3821254)

Hella 500ff - how the illumination of that light, and is their any vibration if it is fixed the way its done on your car?

1) Remember to get the driving beam type ( do not get fog beam type)
2) 500FF is best used in combination with stock low-beam of your car (for cars that have H4 type bulbs)

Hey guys.
I am sorry if this one is a little repetitive, but I need to know something about Automotive Lighting.
I went to attend a conference wherein I got two Osram Bilux H4 12V 100/90W bulbs. Considering I am a noob in understanding this thing, could someone please guide me on how good these are? Else I will consider giving them away.
If I do plan to replace my current set of bulbs ( on my brand new Celerio) what improvement can I expect and what changes will I need to make?

Thanks in advance.

Hi Bhpians in Kolkata,

My car has just arrived from Bangalore and one of the headlamps (90/100 bosch) has conked :( Can anyone guide me to a place near Salt Lake/new town where I can find 90/100 bulbs? I have already posted this in the Beat subforum but posting this here for better visibility. Mods, please take note.Today is the last day when I can procure that, as the festive season has started

Quote:

Originally Posted by deathucider (Post 3827992)

Are you comfortable with the present headlamps on your Celerio? Have you ever felt the need for further illumination? Do you usually undertake extensive night driving?

If your answer is no to all these questions, stick to the stock (?60/55) setup.

Higher power bulbs draw more electricity, hence the need for a relay. They also produce more heat, which might not be tolerated by the stock bulb holders, hence the need for ceramic holders.

Quote:

Originally Posted by deathucider (Post 3827992)

I went to attend a conference wherein I got two Osram Bilux H4 12V 100/90W bulbs.

If I do plan to replace my current set of bulbs ( on my brand new Celerio) what improvement can I expect and what changes will I need to make?

When I bought my Swift ZDi, the car came with Osram Bilux (60/55W) and I can say that is one bad pair of bulb that I have ever used. I changed to Philips Xtreme Vision (60/55W). After a while when one of the Philips XV conked off, I switched over to Philips Rally on the 100/90W setup with wiring harness from Hella.

If you do want to try out the bulbs that you got, get a wiring harness for 100/90W setup that consists of ceramic holder and relay to protect the circuit and your car's electrical system.

Hello friends I just had a query - would a single 6inch 36W CREE SPOT/FLOOD LED BAR be enough for my Swift VDI or do I need to get two of them?

My main purpose is as in November i will be driving to my hometown (Lucknow) and then from their I will be hitting Uttaranchal before coming back. So I know I will be getting heavy fog in these area as I have done it on my bike.

Quote:

Originally Posted by deathucider (Post 3827992)

I got two Osram Bilux H4 12V 100/90W bulbs. Considering I am a noob in understanding this thing, could someone please guide me on how good these are? Else I will consider giving them away.
If I do plan to replace my current set of bulbs ( on my brand new Celerio) what improvement can I expect and what changes will I need to make?

Thanks in advance.

Quote:

Originally Posted by a4anurag (Post 3829270)

German made Osram Bilux will perform better than the same model made in India. The 100/90W Osram Bilux in my Swift are as bright as the equivalent Philips Rally that I had bought. The latter might still be a better option, though.