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Lighting Mods. Help!!
I have a Passat B7 with halogen headlamps. Attaching a pic for reference.
I upgraded the low beam with Morimoto 4300K HID kit and the results are awesome, the cutoff is neat and the illumination is strong. Case in point the halogen bulb also performed beautifully, the illumination was always great. I just wanted the HID look :)
Anyway, now the high beam bulb looks out of place beacuse its yellow. The highbeam section house a h7 bulb and a w5w parking light bulb.
I want to upgrade this section to match the HID.
I came across two kits Philips Diamond Vision 5000k and Philips Crystal vision 4300K .
What do you suggest is a better bulb. good thing about crystal vision is that they come with free 2 w5w 4300k halogen bulbs to match the color. As they are halogen, they wont throw any errors like T10 leds do.
Also what is the best place ONLINE to buy these. I dont want fakes. Thanks please:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy_Bean
(Post 3812174)
Lighting Mods. Help!!
I upgraded the low beam with Morimoto 4300K HID kit and the results are awesome, the cutoff is neat and the illumination is strong. Case in point the halogen bulb also performed beautifully, the illumination was always great. I just wanted the HID look :)
I want to upgrade this section to match the HID.
I came across two kits Philips Diamond Vision 5000k and Philips Crystal vision 4300K .
Also what is the best place ONLINE to buy these. I dont want fakes. |
First - the HID conversion without housing (projector, or HID specific reflector+lens) is illegal - Indian cops don't test meticulously for this so most don't realize it. But if you do get caught and it happens occasionally, so you should know it is illegal.
Steer clear of Diamond Vision and Crystal Vision - they both "look" good, but won't help you "see" better ; and they cause more glare to others. Instead buy either Osram Nightbreakers or Philips Xtreme Vision. Try autotrends.in for Osram. Philips are a little harder to get.
EDIT:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy_Bean
(Post 3812174)
Is there a way to adjust the beam throw range? |
There should be a screw on each side headlamp, for each beam to set the throw individually. Open the bonnet and check behind the headlamp housing, it may be difficult to find if the engine bay is tightly packed, but such things should be in easy reach - that is what they're meant to for. There might be holes or ports in the metal/plastic covers to give easy access, so have a look at deliberate gaps/holes first, directly over/behind the individual beam reflectors. Then turn clockwise/anti-clockwise to raise/lower - which direction depends on brand, usually it's anti-clockwise to raise the beam. You'll need a plus/star type head screw driver with a long stem or an allen key. Check if the owner's manual has mention of beam adjustment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci
(Post 3812254)
First - the HID conversion without housing (projector, or HID specific reflector+lens) is illegal - Indian cops don't test meticulously for this so most don't realize it. But if you do get caught and it happens occasionally, so you should know it is illegal.
Steer clear of Diamond Vision and Crystal Vision - they both "look" good, but won't help you "see" better ; and they cause more glare to others. Instead buy either Osram Nightbreakers or Philips Xtreme Vision. Try autotrends.in for Osram. Philips are a little harder to get. |
Thanks. I understand HIDs are illegal but not if carefully setup. I have absolutely no glare from the HIDs and the cutoff is very neat.
Infact the low beam kind of falls too short. Is there a way to adjust the beam throw range?
@Crazy_Bean :
It is a basic rule that HIDs are illegal, when not used in an HID specific projector, or in an HID reflector. You may be right (and a good driver) if your Morimoto kit isn't causing any glares. But I suppose they're still illegal in the eyes of law.
That aside, if you're looking for halogen upgrade for your high beam, try Osram NB+ instead of those 4300k/5000k halogens, as they're simply sold by colour temperate and not actual brightness. The halogens claiming 4300k or above will generally have a tint of blue layer applied over the bulb, which would look cheesy on a premium car like the Passat. You can even consult VW dealerships for the bulb upgrade, though they would suggest higher wattage bulb with ceramic holder and better wiring kit, which would still have the yellow tinge. Nightbreakers have some great reviews and you can try them from an online store, like Amazon.in. Avoid Vicky.in, one known person recieved fake bulbs from the site.
Personally, I would say get some good quality projectors retrofitted for the low beam and shift the Morimoto kit to the high beam. Still illegal (Morimoto part) but won't be causing much problems as you won't use high beam all the time.
About adjusting the throw, Ricci has explained. Didn't you try via the headlamp levelling system?
Quote:
Originally Posted by vin11
(Post 3812354)
@.
Personally, I would say get some good quality projectors retrofitted for the low beam and shift the Morimoto kit to the high beam. Still illegal (Morimoto part) but won't be causing much problems as you won't use high beam all the time.
|
Don't do this. You'll lose flashing capabilities during lit hours.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mayankk
(Post 3812393)
Don't do this. You'll lose flashing capabilities during lit hours. |
Agreed. But this is the case with most HID projector retrofits (bi-xenons).
He is looking to match his high beam's colour with (or closer to) the 4300k HIDs he is having in the low beam, which IMO is not possible without a proper HID. You can get an effect closer to the 4300k HIDs with halogens also, but it would mean compromising on the visibility (light output) part.
I find it difficult to drive fast at nights due to the short throw of my stock headlamps.
After some reading up here and elsewhere, I have decided to fit a pair of white spot lights on my
ride.
Based on my limited understanding of the trade, here is the plan... please let me know if I am going wrong somewhere , or alternatives that I should consider. Many thanks!
Best Regards,
Joy Bhowmik
Quote:
Originally Posted by joybhowmik
(Post 3819346)
Based on my limited understanding of the trade, here is the plan... please let me know if I am going wrong somewhere , or alternatives that I should consider. Attachment 1423784 |
First off, you don't need so many fuses! Just one fuse between the battery positive and the relay (pin 30) is sufficient. Since you plan on running 55W bulbs, 55*2 = 110W, 110/12 = 9.1A of current will be flowing. 10A fuse is cutting it very close, I suggest using a 15A fuse instead. When I bult my headlight relay, each ceramic blade fuse holder cost me 50rs, using so many fuse holders will only help in increasing the cost!
Instead of using wires in different guages, just use 1.5sqmm wires everywhere. Price difference between 0.5sqmm and 1.5sqmm is very minimal for your quantites. Visit reputed electrical shops, you can get VGuard/Finolex/Anchor cables in various colours in loose quantities.
How are you tapping the IGN wire? scotchlock connector or fuse splitter?
Please add plastic wire sleeves and heatshrinks to your BOM!
EDIT : You'll need battery and ground ring terminals as well. Buy a dozen of "horn clips" as well, they might come in handy.
Hello friends, I want to add on fog lights to my Swift VDI. I am confused as my budget is around 5k only. I tried looking for Cree but it was expensive, Hella I am not sure. Also I wanted to know where and how to mount it in front. I want to get it done this month only as I would be driving around for few days and it will be foggy as well, hence need help.
Also I would appreciate if someone can guide me where to get it done in Delhi/NCR region preferrably Noida or Ghaziabad. Thank you
Quote:
Originally Posted by SunnyBoi
(Post 3819373)
First off, you don't need so many fuses! Just one fuse between the battery positive and the relay (pin 30) is sufficient. Since you plan on running 55W bulbs, 55*2 = 110W, 110/12 = 9.1A of current will be flowing. 10A fuse is cutting it very close, I suggest using a 15A fuse instead. When I bult my headlight relay, each ceramic blade fuse holder cost me 50rs, using so many fuse holders will only help in increasing the cost! |
The current splits at the fork... thus 10 amp fuses as the rated load in each path = 55/12 = 4.6 A
Quote:
Originally Posted by SunnyBoi
(Post 3819373)
Instead of using wires in different guages, just use 1.5sqmm wires everywhere. Price difference between 0.5sqmm and 1.5sqmm is very minimal for your quantites. Visit reputed electrical shops, you can get VGuard/Finolex/Anchor cables in various colours in loose quantities. |
Thanks good suggestion. !!
Quote:
Originally Posted by SunnyBoi
(Post 3819373)
How are you tapping the IGN wire? scotchlock connector or fuse splitter? |
Which is your preferred recommendation and why?
Quote:
Originally Posted by SunnyBoi
(Post 3819373)
Please add plastic wire sleeves and heatshrinks to your BOM!
EDIT : You'll need battery and ground ring terminals as well. Buy a dozen of "horn clips" as well, they might come in handy. |
Thanks good suggestion. !!
I am facing a strange issue with my Polo's h/l glass. It seems there is a build up of strange looking fogging on the inside. I have checked if there is ingress of dust from outside but haven't found issue. How do i clean the glass from inside, any advice helps. Attaching pics
Quote:
Originally Posted by joybhowmik
(Post 3819429)
The current splits at the fork... thus 10 amp fuses as the rated load in each path = 55/12 = 4.6 A |
I meant the fuse between the battery and relay. Its marked as 10A in your picture.
The fuses before aux lamps serve no purpose. Even if there is a short circuit at the bulb, the first fuse to trip will be the one closest to the current source, i.e., the fuse between the battery terminal and relay. Others in the line will probably never blow at all and hence I mentioned its not required.
Quote:
Originally Posted by joybhowmik
(Post 3819429)
Which is your preferred recommendation and why? |
I prefer a fuse splitter. It gives the option of adding a fuse then and there. Using a scotchlock connector the insulation at one po9int of the wire would be punctured, it is not really a problem but I prefer fuse splitters.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ushuaia
(Post 3819435)
I am facing a strange issue with my Polo's h/l glass. It seems there is a build up of strange looking fogging on the inside. I have checked if there is ingress of dust from outside but haven't found issue. How do i clean the glass from inside, any advice helps. Attaching pics |
Remove the rear headlight cover, remove the headlight bulb and indicator bulb. point a hair dryer into the bulb hole and keep it on for about 5 minutes. The hot air should go in through the headlight bulb hole and come out through the indicator hole. Any and all condensation/fog will be driven out. Replace the bulbs and cover, repeat the same for the other side.
Attaching pics of my Polo's H/L
Quote:
Originally Posted by SunnyBoi
(Post 3819437)
Remove the rear headlight cover, remove the headlight bulb and indicator bulb. point a hair dryer into the bulb hole and keep it on for about 5 minutes. The hot air should go in through the headlight bulb hole and come out through the indicator hole. Any and all condensation/fog will be driven out. Replace the bulbs and cover, repeat the same for the other side. |
It is dry there is no condensation (from observation even during rains ), its as if there is some fine particulate matter which has attached itself off the inside glass. As usual ASS are clueless. Btw this is on stock bulbs. Will upgrade to Hella 65w's
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ushuaia
(Post 3819439)
It is dry there is no condensation (from observation even during rains ), its as if there is some fine particulate matter which has attached itself off the inside glass. As usual ASS are clueless. Btw this is on stock bulbs. Will upgrade to Hella 65w's |
In that case remove all bulbs, ask the ASS guys to use a compressed air pipe to blow inside the headlight for a good minute or two. That should dislodge the dust inside. If that doesn't work then you probably have to replace the headlight assembly.
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