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-   -   Auto Lighting thread : Post all queries about automobile lighting here (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifications-accessories/93908-auto-lighting-thread-post-all-queries-about-automobile-lighting-here-577.html)

haha, its no way close to 30W. 5W maybe but not more than that.

Its mentioned in the specs inside that its a 10W LED, they mean to say it will provide 30W equivalent of halogen light.

There are even 125W motorcycle lights on ebay whose power draw is supposedly 15W, but in another image they say its 13.6W :D higher the number, more suspicious you get.

Just as I suspected. They are using a Cree XML chip. It can be driven to 10W, but the light in your pic does not seem to have a heatsink good enough. Heatsinks and 10W drivers are costly.
I guess they are running 500mA
500mA at 14V is around 7W. 500mA drivers are very very common and very cheap (1$ if you talk about OEM cost, sometimes even lower for volume).

That said, I would rate such lights much better than round lights having 3W Epistar chip and a low quality reflector.

Even though they are 24W (8 LEDs), the range is not good, and they just illuminate near the vehicle.

This is a pic of the insides, hope this helps in finding out whats really inaide. He did mention it has a Cree U2 LED inside?

The part about loight output is true though. The light really travels far, there is a building about half a kilometer away from where I was standing and this light was able to illuminate it although faintly. I couldn't capture it on camera though.

That looks like a U2(XML series)
Capable if 1000 lumens at 3000mA current at driving voltage(3.5V approx)
I think you can calculate luminous flux if you measure wattage.
At 6W it would be around 600 lumens max.

I'll measure the current sometime this week and report back :thumbs up

Sunnyboi , I have something similar , running 10 watts ( around 950 lumen) on either side .

The package arrived in 10 days by indiapost. That's faster than some local shipments. It was packed in a bubble-wrap-lined paper envelope. The plastic box was smashed, presumably by some heavy fellow shipment, but the bulbs were unhurt.

Installed it in my car and they worked fine. Initial impression with the bulbs is great. Much better than the night breaker unlimited that I was using. Detailed review later.

Thanks for the links.
The second one has a heat sink behind. So, do these assemblies get very hot?

Secondly what precautions are needed to protect these units from dust getting into heat-sinks and water getting into the assembly?

I have a 5000k HID projector setup. It seems the road visibility is a bit of a problem.
Now my question is, will exchanging just the 5000k bulb for a new 4300k bulb give a substantial increase in road visibility ?
Also, where can i procure just the new 4300k bulb (without the ballast and wiring etc) ?

I ran the spot lamp which is on the bike for 5 minutes and the casing did get very warm. shouldn't be an issue on a moving vehicle I believe.

The second one, with the heatsink, I could not figure how to open it and I haven't dunked it in water to test it either.

On the spot lamp, I could completely dissassemble it. It did have rubber seals for waterproofing, I added dollops of fevibond around these rubber seals as well as threads to make sure they're air ans waterproof.

I want to change the 60/55 set up in the fiesta Classic to 100/90. Few friends suggested me to get only the high beam(H3) bulbs replaced to 100w.
Given that the classic has different lamps for low & high beams, what would you people suggest? I changed to 100/90w set up in my liva & it cost me 1500 including relay, wiring & ceramic holders.
Any idea about the classic?

Both the front park light bulbs of my Swift have stopped working in quick succession.

Since I need to replace the pair, I was wondering if there are any alternate options like LED bulb for park light available and how reliable they are. Has anyone tried Philips Ultinon LED for the park light? What is the price range and how is the experience with it?

Also, any idea about the legal aspect of it?

It's a known fact that best visibility would be provided around 4300K color temp. and that is the sole reason why OEM HID bulbs are in that range. It will definitely improve your visibility as compared to 5000K especially on wet roads and rainy nights. You need to change only the bulb, but while you go for lower color temp. bulb, make sure you keep other specs same. Go for the same wattage bulb as that of your ballast. Usually the connectors are same but do check that also for compatibility before you get the bulbs. You can check with local vendors or online for variety of bulbs.

I drive on low beams. High beams are for flashing or occasional use on highways where you don't have other motorists (which is very rare on our crowded roads). I cannot understand the use of upgrading only high beams. It should be the other way around right? If you upgrade your low beams, you can have improved lighting without dazzling oncoming traffic. So IMO, whether you upgrade your high beam bulbs or not, do upgrade your low beams for that is what you are going to be using most of the time, unless you drive on high beams.

The Fiesta Classic has H7 for Low beam and H1 for High beam, but you cannot get 100/90 for this setup because of the unavailability of ceramic holders. Best option would be to get the Osram NB+ which is costing about 4K+ for H1 & H7 bulb set. You can consider good set of HIDs too!

I'm having LED Parking bulbs in my Civic for past 2+ years. One of the bulb conked off after 1.5 years. I changed both the LED's, as there was a slight colour difference between old & new LED.
Till now no issues with LED's.
While fixing LED's make sure the polarity is correct, else the light may not glow.
I paid around 300rs for these LED bulbs.
Philips LED parking bulbs price when I last enquired was around 700-1000rs