Team-BHP - Auto Lighting thread : Post all queries about automobile lighting here
Team-BHP

Team-BHP (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)
-   Modifications & Accessories (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifications-accessories/)
-   -   Auto Lighting thread : Post all queries about automobile lighting here (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifications-accessories/93908-auto-lighting-thread-post-all-queries-about-automobile-lighting-here-540.html)

These days I'm seeing many hid conversion kits starting from 3k onwards and few of them in 5k-7k range which looks good and reliable. Has any one used them or provide any reviews for them? I'm looking at h4 ones for my ertiga and hb3 ones for my civic.

Almost all ise Chinese bulbs. Failures are far more common in the Ballasts that in the bulbs. Make sure you get good AC ballasts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cgbalaji (Post 3416726)
Sankar sir, your post regarding your i10 was very helpful for me to understand the situation. In i20, there is no single connection for the headlight, indicator n pilot bulbs. I am not sure though. But currently the relay is installed like the way you described in your post. That is, making a hole in the rubber cover to take the ceramic holder in. The h4 bulb fits in the connector and is held intact using a spring mechanism. I have removed the rubber cover many times to take out any fused bulb and replace it. If the bulb or fuse is blown, I can just replace it. But now the fuse holder itself is not in a good condition. Thats why I planned to change the whole relay kit. Any more suggestions sir. I am now starting out to purchase a new relay/wiring harness kit.

Auto Lighting thread : Post all queries about automobile lighting here-1370845844_504122656_2picturesofhyundaii20headlamp2011.jpg

This is what google returned when i searched for i20 headlamp. This has only a single plug in connection to the headlight unit just like the i10. So if you want to install a headlamp wiring kit to use high wattage bulb you need to do make a hole in the bulb cover/not use the cover/tap into the factory wire going to the headlight.

But since you say a headlight relay kit is already installed in the car what seems to be the problem? What is wrong with the fuse holder? If you want to replace the relay kit it just follow how it is done at present.

PS: All headlamp relay kits that i have seen being sold here has two separate fuses for high and low beam on the high current wires going from the relay to the bulb. That is not how it should be done. The fuse should be on the positive lead going from the battery to the relay and as close to the battery as possible.

The picture that you have posted earlier has the correct fuse setup and i believe that is a pic from the internet of some harness sold abroad. I haven't seen one like that sold here.

Quote:

If you want to replace the relay kit it just follow how it is done at present.
I replaced the relay and wiring harness today the way it is done previously, but with slight modification. Will post a detailed writeup tomorrow. Thanks for all who gave their valuable suggestions. More DIYs in queue. Will keep posted.

I have upgraded the stock headlight bulbs in my Ertiga to Philips 100/90 with original Philips relay kit. Though I can find huge difference in high beam, I don't find any improvement in low beam. What could be the reason? The headlight design itself?

Ertiga Owners - Please clarify!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prodigy07 (Post 3417743)
Though I can find huge difference in high beam, I don't find any improvement in low beam. What could be the reason? The headlight design itself?

Reflector design is the answer to your question. Low beam is too weak in Ertiga in the stock setup. So expecting any great improvement with the 100/90 or even 100/130 is no use.

Nothing much can be done other than getting used to it. My dad does complain a few times but he hardly drives so no problem (Chauffeur driven mostly).

Anurag.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prodigy07 (Post 3417743)
I have upgraded the stock headlight bulbs in my Ertiga to Philips 100/90 with original Philips relay kit. Though I can find huge difference in high beam, I don't find any improvement in low beam. What could be the reason? The headlight design itself?

You would've already got the reason that it's the HL reflector design. If you want better illumination just in front of the vehicle, consider installing some inexpensive aux lamps like Autopal, or convert the "Fog" lamp bulbs to HID. The former will set you back by about 1-2k, while the latter would cost you upwards of 4k, depending on the kit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by silversteed (Post 3418091)

If you want better illumination just in front of the vehicle, consider installing some inexpensive aux lamps like Autopal, or convert the "Fog" lamp bulbs to HID.

Also try adding a pair of Hella 500 FF so you can use then only when needed.

Anurag.

Quote:

Originally Posted by silversteed (Post 3418091)
If you want better illumination just in front of the vehicle, consider installing some inexpensive aux lamps like Autopal, or convert the "Fog" lamp bulbs to HID.

Thanks Mate :) Let me try getting a basic H8 HID kit for the fogs. Any suggestions?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prodigy07 (Post 3418652)
Thanks Mate :) Let me try getting a basic H8 HID kit for the fogs. Any suggestions?

How basic? Check for a seller named new-value in eBay. Pretty reliable. But you'll grow old waiting for the parcel to land on your doorstep after it completes all the customs et al. Takes about a month to two. This guy sells original CNLight stuff, which is as good as it can get.

Quote:

Originally Posted by silversteed (Post 3418728)
How basic?

I'm looking at price range between 2.5 to 4K :) IMHO Osram H11 Fog lamps costs 1700/- So, I don't want to spend too much just to check the visibility. Might go for a better brand at a later point of time.

For fogs get 2700/3000K HID fogs and AC Ballasts. 3000K are only in 55W. I did on my Civic and am very happy.

This is the age of cost cutting.
So if you fit your car with 130/110 with relay, you will get excellent light for couple of months. During this time the reflective coating will degrade, and you will actually be getting lesser light than a stock bulb.
So no use.
you ruin your reflector and spend more.
Of course, if yours is an old ambassador with those metal reflectors they withstand high wattage pretty well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prodigy07 (Post 3418749)
I'm looking at price range between 2.5 to 4K :) IMHO Osram H11 Fog lamps costs 1700/- So, I don't want to spend too much just to check the visibility. Might go for a better brand at a later point of time.

Well, my suggestion is to fix a pair of aux lamps (you can use the same mounts for a better setup, later on), or fix H11 55W bulbs in the fogs (please add relays or else you risk damaging the wiring), for the time being. You would get good foreground lighting. For around 3k, you get ONE AC ballast and HID burner, for a pair the cost is double, if you need a reliable setup. Cheap, "duplicate" ones come at much lower prices, but you'll end up with busted burners way quicker.

HI All,

This question is to those who have upgraded there headlights to 100/90 or higher.
I too have upgraded headlamps of my Safari; but brightness of my left headlight is dim/dull as comapred to right, both low/high beams.
Both bulbs are Hella Rally 100/90, using a Hella 130/100 relay.
I doubt (almost certain) that the culprit is the "earthing" that is required for Ceramic holders. Both ground connectors are attached to relatively same place: The bolt of the headlight. I have tried to ground at other places as well, but with little improvement. Switched the bulbs as well. Even switched the supply from relay, No success.

My question is "Is it OK to plug the GROUND/EARTH wire of left headlight directly to the Negative of the Battery"? Tried this for a moment & was happy with the output, but only sceptic to do it permanently.

Regards,
Saurabh

Quote:

Originally Posted by silversteed (Post 3420261)
Try sanding the flat ring terminals to remove any oxide layer, and then fix it on the bolt. It's a good idea to check for and remove traces of rust on the bolt and also on the contacts inside the ceramic holder. All this, is to ensure that the ground wire gets makes very good contact with the body. To answer your specific question, YES, you can.

Many thanks Silversteed. Well; really doubt on rusting on a new harness, but seriosly never did this or thought of it. Will try your suggestions first. Else, it directly goes to battery :D


All times are GMT +5.5. The time now is 16:16.