Team-BHP - Auto Lighting thread : Post all queries about automobile lighting here

Yes. Thats correct. Relay is used mainly to isolate the headlamp power from the existing circuit.

Depending upon car and the quality of switches and wiring, it is better we install one. There could be an existing relay inside the BCM which will control the headlights. But no one knows what its current rating is. Nor dont we know what the maximum current that the wires can handle. Theoretically we can take thickness of wire, AWG etc to decide but still, design specs are best known to company engineers than us. Hence, the main aim is to isolate this internal circuitry(which may also be a lot complicated these days) and give a dedicated harness and control to the lamps.

That is why a relay and harness is needed. I am not sure if it has been mentioned before, but this job does not tamper with the existing setup in any way. Just any way. Hence, fear of warranty getting void must be put off. Rather one must be worried in case of a direct swap. That is because there is increase in the current flowing through the lighting circuit. A 60/55 setup will theoretically draw around 10A of current. On the other hand, a 100/90 setup will draw around 16A of current at 12v. Now some people are of the opinion that the circuit will be designed to handle more load than it actually handles. Agreed.

So a circuit which is meant to handle 10A of current will be designed to handle at the most 15A, that is 150% of its actual load, which is equal to an upgraded bulb. Or let us assume a very quality conscious manufacturer, designing upto 200% of actual load. Overall, is it more reliable for a circuit to operate at 50% of its capacity or is it reliable at full capacity? Imo its the former. Hence, I strictly suggest anyone not to go ahead with direct swaps. If not immediately, at least in the longrun it might cause trouble.

Quote:

Originally Posted by audioholic (Post 3143695)

A 60/55 setup will theoretically draw around 10A of current. On the other hand, a 100/90 setup will draw around 16A of current at 12v.

Your statement seems to suggest that the lamp consumes maximum 60+55 = 115 watt of power (watt = volt * current equation). I used to think a 60/55 watt headlight lamp uses 55 watt at low beam and increases by 5 watt to 60 watt maximum at high beam. Kindly enlighten.

Quote:

Hence, I strictly suggest anyone not to go ahead with direct swaps. If not immediately, at least in the longrun it might cause trouble.

As with everything else in life, probably excluding financial matters, I always play safe.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guite (Post 3143796)

I used to think a 60/55 watt headlight lamp uses 55 watt at low beam and increases by 5 watt to 60 watt maximum at high beam. Kindly enlighten..

You are correct.

Sorry I think I did not explain the basis of calculation. I took two headlamps into consideration. So at high beam, you will have to supply 60+60 watts from the lighting circuit and with 100/90 bulbs at high beam the total consumption is 200w. So 120/12 = 10A and 200/12=16.66A of current. By 60/55 setup I mean a pair of headlamps.

Hello all,

I have few questions:
1) How is the output of factory fog lamps of Hyundai i10?
2) Is it advisable to upgrade bulbs of fog lamps? If yes, which ones?
3) I had installed 100/90 Hella bulbs. I still feel the light is inadequate on highways specially in rains. Can the bulbs be upgraded to 130/110 on the same relay?

EDIT: Thanks Sommos. Even if I keep 100/90, I was planning to upgrade fog lamp bulbs or add auxiliary lights like below:

Auto Lighting thread : Post all queries about automobile lighting here-i26572.jpg

I know this will spoil the looks, but I can live with that. How useful would this be?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dodge_Viper (Post 3144528)

Hello all,

I have few questions:

3) I had installed 100/90 Hella bulbs. I still feel the light is inadequate on highways specially in rains. Can the bulbs be upgraded to 130/110 on the same relay?

100/90 bulbs should be more than sufficient for the highway.
There maybe some other problem like misaligned headlamp or reflector fading away etc. Get the things checked at the service centre.

Upgradation to 130/110 is not required.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dodge_Viper (Post 3144528)

1. Ouput of factory fog lamps is 27W, atleast this is for the old circular fog lamps of the old i10. Good for lighting up the corners and immediate area in the front which is what a fog lamp is used to do.
2. Not really, no use for long range vision.
3. I have used Hella 100/90 and found it not to be as good as Philips 100/90. Hella 130/90 had around the same light output as that of Philips 100/90. Try Philips or Osram.
4. With the selection of the right auxiliary driving lamps it would make a huge difference in your night drive experience, even with the 55W H1/H3 bulbs that most aux come with. Opt for "Driving" beam pattern don't go for Fog or Spot beam pattern.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sankar (Post 3144663)

3. I have used Hella 100/90 and found it not to be as good as Philips 100/90. Hella 130/90 had around the same light output as that of Philips 100/90. Try Philips or Osram.
4. With the selection of the right auxiliary driving lamps it would make a huge difference in your night drive experience, even with the 55W H1/H3 bulbs that most aux come with. Opt for "Driving" beam pattern don't go for Fog or Spot beam pattern.

Thanks Sankar. Fog lamps ruled out for now. Mostly will go for auxiliary lamps.

I should have gone for Philips 100/90 when I fitted them :Frustrati. I need good visibility hence driving beam pattern would suit my needs.
Guys from Mumbai, any idea where can I get genuine Hella products?

EDIT: Just found one on Shop4Hella.com
Jai Auto Agencies
B-290/296 Sopariwala Eastate
Above Blue Diamond hotel Girgaum Mumbai 400004

Anybody, reviews of this?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guite (Post 3143796)

I think the above statement is not completely wrong. This is because I think that while flashing the headlights (like at passing), headlamps used both low & high beams, hence though momentarily, they do use 60+55=115W each. (115 X 2 =230w) where as going by the same line, a 110/90 W bulb will consume about 380W, which translates to about 31.66 A of current against 19.16 A of regular 60/55 bulbs.

As I stated a few posts earlier, that I have been using 100/90 W without a relay, but now I have changed my mind so as to be safe. I will be upgrading the system by putting a relay, wiring & holders. Will post the pictures of the job which will be done by a MASS electrician, but privately.:)

Regards,
Saket

Quote:

Originally Posted by saket77 (Post 3144700)

I think the above statement is not completely wrong. This is because I think that while flashing the headlights (like at passing), headlamps used both low & high beams,

'Most' current gen cars cutoff low beam while flashing. I had only observed this in the omni a couple of years ago wherein when the stalk was pulled to flash, both high and low beams were powered, ie high beam was powered without cutting off low beam. However, now we have better switchgear and when the stalk is flicked, the low beam goes off and high beam comes to life. By most i mean cars with a double filament bulb and not the ones with separate high and low beam bulbs.

Also we tried plonking 100/90 in a relatives i10 sportz. The results werent that great WRT to beam spread. Just that the intensity had increased. Guess its something to do with the reflectors. Moreover, the car had a plastic dust cap which needs some cutting to accomodate the new harness. Some shops leave the dust cover open, as in the case of a neighbours car, but that will lead to dust and moisture getting into the headlamp assembly, which is not a good thing to happen.

Quote:

Originally Posted by saket77 (Post 3144700)

I think the above statement is not completely wrong. This is because I think that while flashing the headlights (like at passing), headlamps used both low & high beams

Only high beams are used for flashing in the new Swift, low beams stay off. It must be the case with all new gen cars, since using both filaments for flashing reduces the life of the H4 bulb.

Quote:

Originally Posted by audioholic (Post 3144718)

By most i mean cars with a double filament bulb and not the ones with separate high and low beam bulbs.

That means that all cars with H4 bulbs, which have both beams built into one bulb when flashed, only hi-beam is used? & in H1 & H7s, only 1 beam is used as well?

I will check back on my car (old Zen) and report back. Probably the relay & wiring job will be done today itself or the max by tomorrow.

Thanks for the updation on the headlamps of newer cars.

Regards,
Saket

I have mentioned clearly that in dual filament bulbs(H4) these days it is ensured that both filaments do not light up at the same time. However, with cars having two separate bulbs for high and low beam, the entire structure is different. Low beam will be ON always irrespective of choosing high or low or flashing(as long as you have the headlamp stalk in ON position obviously) and the high beam independently switches on when you flash or switch to high beam.

Quote:

Originally Posted by audioholic (Post 3144762)

Chevy offers dual beam flash on single pod headlights which is a great tool for these high beam riding morons. If you are on low beam and flash the high beam the low beam stays on. Only thing is you can't keep both the beams on without flashing or modding.

Quote:

Originally Posted by audioholic (Post 3144718)

Some shops leave the dust cover open, as in the case of a neighbours car, but that will lead to dust and moisture getting into the headlamp assembly, which is not a good thing to happen.

In my car (Getz Prime) there is a small 'U' shaped rubber pipe coming out of the top of the assembly. Its flexible and about 6mm diameter. It might be for ventilating the headlight assembly, considering the amount of heat generated inside.