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Originally Posted by sgiitk
(Post 2738346)
You cannot get 2700K Halogens hence the use of white bulbs. |
Originally Posted by sgiitk
(Post 2738346)
If everybody jumps into the well it is still wrong. Once you are hit by somebody you will learn fast. You cannot get 2700K Halogens hence the use of white bulbs. |
TOM: Fog lights are low-mounted lights (bumper level or below) that project light that's cut off at the top. So the light pattern on a good-quality fog light goes straight out at bumper level and down, but not higher than that. RAY: The reason for this is that fog tends to hover about 12 to 18 inches off the ground. So by projecting light in that fog-free pocket, you can illuminate the road a greater distance from your car and therefore see farther ahead. Some people swear by fog lights. Others claim that they don't really make much difference. TOM: So the question becomes, to yellow or not to yellow? There's a lot of debate about this, but the research says that yellow lights are no better than white lights at penetrating fog. The theory bandied about was that yellow light has a longer wavelength and is therefore less likely to be reflected by the fog particles. Turns out, this is complete poppycock. RAY: Apparently, the fog particles themselves are so big that they reflect all colors of light. Basically, all light bounces off of them, so using yellow light instead of white light gives you no advantage. TOM: Plus, in order to get yellow light, what fog-light manufacturers do is put a yellow lens over a white light. That cuts your light output by 20 percent to 30 percent, which is counterproductive. RAY: So if you live in a coastal area where fog is a real problem and you want to give fog lights a try, we'd suggest a set of high-quality, white fog lights that are professionally mounted to be sure they're aimed correctly. And don't forget to check their aim periodically. Since they're mounted low, they can be knocked out of alignment when you run over things like snow banks and stalled Toyotas. |
Originally Posted by razor4077
(Post 2739204)
Has anyone tried upgrading the Civic headlamp bulbs to 90W (low) & 100W (high)? If so: - Is a relay required? - Does the higher wattage darken the headlamp plastic? - Bulb options and costs? |
Originally Posted by jatinpatel
(Post 2716763)
Hello all, As i had mentioned it before on the thread that i would be doing the bulb upgrade to 100w for Hi-beam which has bulb no.9005 as no upgrade options available for 9006 no bulb except for Extreme Vision which i already have. So finally today got the bulbs of Hi-beam upgraded to 100w 9005 HB3 costing 650 per piece along with relay and wiring the bulb is of Navara company of Germany its OEM to Bmw and Merc. The bulbs which came out of the hi-beam position were philips extreme vision 60w with bulb no 9006 which after little bit of mods to the bulbs manage to fit them inside the low-beam and coupled with the new 100w Hi-beam the difference is SUPERB!! Total cost to me was 650x2 for bulbs = 1300 Relay + wirring + sockets + labor =1500 Total =2800rs am not counting the cost of Extreme vision here as i already had them. but just for record each bulb of extreme vision is 475rs. Will let the pics do the talking, dont know how to add text before each pic so 1st pic All Lights OFF 2nd pic Low Beam having 60w Philips extreme vision 3rd pic Hi + Low + fogs 4th pic Hi + Low + fogs to give depth of view of light throw 5th pic Bulb box. @sdking The extreme vision were improvement over the absolute blind and rubbish stock bulbs but yet didn satisfy 100% it satisfied me only 70% but current setup am very much satisfied. |
Originally Posted by Vid6639
(Post 2739207)
Normally crazy put the high beam bulb in the low beam slot (a small mod required to the bulb) and then upgraded the high beam to 100W. I think another member mentioned this as well. edit: here's the post from Jatinpatel: |
Originally Posted by madnish30
(Post 2739693)
Okay, so din't get a reply to the last question, nevermind. Another question - anyone knows the cost of new lens - driver side for 2006 Camry ? Toyota dealer is unresponsive... Any help would be appreciated. |
Originally Posted by joslicx
(Post 2740697)
If somebody, lets say, just wants to change stock bulbs to something better (same wattage so that it is just plug and play bulb change and no other mod to the setup) then what is better: Osram Night Breakers Plus or Philips Extreme vision ?? |
Originally Posted by WanderNomad Friends the assembly of my Accent had got dull and was rough from top so my electrician suggested that I should get it buffed. Requested dad to get it done as I was out of city for an impromptu outing and wanted to get over with the job. The inner lens was perfectly clean and only the outer plastic required buffing. Dad went with cousin and the buffing guy opened the whole unit by blowing hot air from the heatgun and cleaned the inside lens. It was too late before I could say no (on phone) to opening the unit however I could save the lens from washing by acid which he wanted to do. The assembly was sealed back using the heat gun and put back. Issue: Cousin and dad feel that water will certainly seep in during rains or car wash as original pasting has been tempered with. Cousin is suggesting to insulate the joint with ample amount of Araldite all over. Request suggestion from experts please. |
Originally Posted by mayankk
(Post 2740740)
For God's sake, no araldite! !! If you're not comfortable with the fit, just get some silicone stuff, and have it seperated and redone to satisfaction . Put the araldite on ground, and back away! |
Originally Posted by Vid6639
(Post 2739968)
I don't think many people here would know the price of the entire assembly. However here's a few tips. First do you have any pics? That way people will know the issue. Secondly, is the clear plastic faded or dulled. If yes then you get headlight restoration kits to fix that. If that works then your good to go else you can try to change the bulbs. Last option is to change the assembly. Pictures are what we need along with details on the issue. |
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