Team-BHP - Auto Lighting thread : Post all queries about automobile lighting here

Quote:

Originally Posted by naveen.raju (Post 2099994)

Anytime.
Since you are looking for visibility rather than looks, I would suggest you to go for 4300k HID's. These provide the best visibility range in HID's. The problem is that, Philips dont manufacture 4300k anymore. They now start with 6000k. There will be only a small difference between 4300k and 6000k HID's where 6000k ones are more white in color. If you are really confused, you can check out other brands too. Since I use Auto Gauge 4300k in my Swift with projectors, I find it really useful. Maybe because I use a Projector setup. HID's in projector setup will provide the maximum visibility whereas when HID's are used in stock, some of the useful light will be scattered/wasted. But a proper brand and installation should cut down this wastage.

Using fogs and HID's in HL's will definitely improve the visibility. But do remember that fogs will provide better visibility for a short range (wide light). Using Hella Aux lights will always provide better vision, but since you are trying to avoid extra fitment, I would suggest you to stick with HID's.

Try to source 4300k HID's. If unsuccessful, check out Philips 6000k. I would recommend Philips anytime.

Hope this helps.
Cheers.!

hey naveen,

Yes, visibility is the priority & I guess I will first stick to finding something decent in 4300K in some other brand since you mention Philips having stopped production of the same.

Let me check around the local market for how much the 'other' kits are going out for. Apart from Numax & Auto Gauge, any other brands that you would recommend?

Drive safe.

Osram has already launched an enhanced version of its most premier auto halogen headlamps. Night Breaker Plus. Here's the link. I have found them to be available on popular UK auto bulbs sites just for as much the same price as the previous version of Night Breakers were or Philips X-treme.

I used the previous generation H4 Night Breaker before shifting to Osram 90/100W. I wasn't too impressed with Night Breaker frankly. Besides, the bulbs didn't last too long. That's one of the sour points Osram seeks to address in the plus edition of Night Breaker. When I switched from my OHC's stock halogen (Osram) to Osram's SilverStar it was a perceptible upgrade. But upgrades since then weren't as significant.

Moderators: I think this one thread for all lighting queries is constrained too much, as a result of which it has bloated up beyond to being effective. Can this be split into appropriate threads. For starters I'd suggest dedicated threads each for:

Halogen headlamps
HIDs
Auxiliary lighting
Fancy lighting
DIY projects, tools & tips
LEDs

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackfire_9 (Post 2100246)

There are many other indian/foreign brands that you can try. You can also check out Osram and P8. But not sure on how these perform. From my personal experience, I would recommend Philips/Auto Gauge. You can check out the shops and see the kind of response you get from these brands.
Anything else, let me know.
Hope you come up with the updates soon.
Cheers.!

Quote:

Originally Posted by chncar (Post 2100421)

Naveen, Sajjt,

Thanks for the advice. The installer did return the stock bulbs to me, and I checked them and it said H4 so I guess it is compatible. I guess I need to find a more reliable/knowledgeable place to do other work on the car.

The installer must have though the 55/60 bulbs may blow (as they will be fed higher power) - maybe he did not know the functioning of the Relay that it is capable of supplying higher power but only if required.

stupid question: I have one "Everest" make wiring harness for the headlights, which came with a 30A cutout and fuse, and I am looking to procure a similar harness for my Hella Rallye 1000 Aux Lamp set. Are similar harness kits avail for horns as well, because that would help eliminate the messy cut paste wiring for the horns.

Now the Everest harness requires a power tap into the positive terminal of the main battery. If 2 more harnesses use similar taps then there will be a spaghetti of wires around the battery which i am seeking to eliminate.

I would like to have a single tap into the main battery and then split the power to the 3 load harnesses (Headlights, Aux Lamps and Horns). Any decent way of doing it?

you can use the ICE distributor block if you want to go the exotic way or
buy ready made fuse block like that used in old zen with three fuses(40/40/30amps rated i think) and use it as master power supply. or even make your own using black bakelite distributor block from electrical shops but will have to put in fuse blocks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ragzv (Post 2100682)

Then its high time to switch this guy with a good one:D

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sportsmind (Post 2100756)

Its on the way. Should finish the install over the next week. It is a simple install which takes about 15 minutes.

Eagerly waiting for the pics.

I've got some circuits for the same and planning to assemble with delayed blinkers for the third brake lights + main. May be next week I can complete if time permits:Frustrati

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsk1979 (Post 2101562)

A relay does not supply power. A relay is a route.
You can route the current through your car stock wiring, or you can fit a relay, and route it through separate wiring, which is recommended if your upgraded bulbs draw more current than stock bulbs

Well said Tanveer, mostly have a wrong concept that a relay is another power reserve or something. In simple terms a relay is just another heavy duty contact switch activated by electro-mechanical solenoid.

Hope another thrilling travelogue coming on its way soon:).

Quote:

Originally Posted by headers (Post 2101872)

Can one also use the existing wiring harness with the existing relay while upgrading bulbs? Any calculations to prove that the secondary wiring harness is better than OE?

IMO, OE is always better than replacements..

If you are planning to install higher rated bulbs, you need to change the relay and the wiring kit. If you are going for the same wattage, you can stick with OE kit.