An upgraded rear sway bar is one of the most popular handling mods on this platform and something I had planned to do from the start. I put off this until I got the suspension part of it properly dialed in.
Why a rear sway bar on this car?:
With most FWD cars, understeer is the biggest worry when it comes to handling. With the 245 and the LSD in the front, understeer is much better controlled than the 230, still, tightening the rear really helps.
When you push the car through long roundabouts or take a turn on a highway at good speed you’ll notice the rear a bit heavy and drag the car over. This is understandable as this is a big car and big boot overhang, so it promotes body roll. From the factory it comes tuned for comfort so any spirited driving will show this aspect up. Tightening the rear end can be by way of a stiffer sway bar or adding bracing to the rear chassis. The sway bar is the most bang-for-buck approach to this, so it’s a good way to start.
Selecting a sway bar:
There are hollow and solid aftermarket sway bars that you can choose from depending on how much stiffness you want to add. Considering this a family car for me, didn’t want to go too stiff, also compounded with the coilovers a very stiff rear sway bar may be too much.
Settled on the APR rear sway bar which is a hollow 1-inch bar that’s a fair bit bigger than stock in size. But because it’s hollow (vs solid stock) it’s not as heavy as a solid sway bar. When you carry the stock one and this you can easily feel how much heavier the APR one is.
Upgraded rear sway bar driving impressions:
Immediately noticed the stiffer rear end, I was concerned it will become too stiff for rear passengers, but that hasn’t been the case yet. Even within the city, you notice the car rotate so much better and the front end feels so much sharper. This is exactly what I expected would happen, as once the rear becomes stiffer and rotates quickly, the front end needs to do less work to make the car turn in. Doing high-speed maneuvers, the car is much quicker to change lanes and direction now.
Body roll is so much better in the rear, to the point where I feel I may need to do something in the front as well to balance it out. Going for a matching front sway bar is an option but I’m concerned if it will bring back some understeer. As of now, the front strut brace is one that I’m planning to do, let’s see how the car handles after.
Endlinks:
I had bought the rear ECS endlinks along with the front ones. Like the front, these are length adjustable end links, which was something I wanted as I was lowered from stock height. It’s a more solid construction vs the plastic stock one. This makes it stronger and should improve the efficiency of the sway bar.
Installation notes:
This seemed like a simple install initially, but turned out to be a real nuisance!
First install was done on a lift and within 15 mins of driving, I noticed an annoying clunking sound coming from the rear on undulations and bumps. Went back to the workshop and noticed the clamp holding the sway bar to the chassis had not been torqued right and had come slightly loose. Upon tightening that again, the noise had gone and I was on my way. After a couple of days, the noise resurfaced, again I thought the clamp bolt had come loose. Went back to the workshop and changed the clamp bolts with aftermarket TVS bolts and tightened them as much as possible. We also tightened the bolts that were connecting the sway bar to the rear end links as much as possible. Again, was ok for a couple of days and then the noise resurfaced, leaving me frustrated and I was almost ready to throw in the towel and give up on the sway bar for now. So the noise that kept coming back wasn't from the sway bar mounting on the chassis but the bolt that connects the Sway Bar to the Endlink.
Then as a final attempt - I decided to try and do the install in a pit, so we can install and tighten the sway bar when the suspension is in full load.
So for this install, since we had access to a pit we could actually set the sway bar preload correctly. On the first attempt the end links length was set about 1.5mm lower than needed, but now with the pit and suspension loaded we could set it right for my ride height. Simply put, getting the length of the end links perfectly aligned such that the end link bolt goes into the sway bar perfectly flat without any tension at all is the goal. This is where adjustable end links come into play to allow us to achieve this with lowered setups. The sway bar should ideally have 0 tension on it when going straight.
With the sway bar pre-load set correctly we tightened everything down as much as possible while applying some thread locker wherever we could for added strength. Heck, we even put a second bolt on the endlink connecting the sway bar so it doesn't move even an mm. It's now been two weeks since the install and no noise! Fingers crossed it stays that way!
The trick seems to be to do it with the suspension fully loaded so you can get the bolt to go through to the end without any tension and then torque it down right at the last thread that it will go. The 1-2mm gap that was showing up when torquing down with the suspension in full droop/tension seemed to be the culprit here.
All in, I think the rear sway bar is a great handling upgrade for any Octavia/vRS/MQB platform car!