17th June 2010, 13:53
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17th June 2010, 19:47
| #197 |
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17th June 2010, 23:34
| #198 | ||
| Senior - BHPian  Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: India
Posts: 1,075
Thanked: 191 Times
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The only pro as I see of adding a spacer is some addition to the looks & the ability to put on a bigger rim & tyres. On th other hand, the con is undesirable effect on hndling which probably is not noticeable in city but is definitely visible on highways. I would say that although people get spacers installed, it's more of an easy way out because the most ideal way is to get a new suspension setup, which can set you back by an amount starting & upwards of 40K. Drive safe. | ||
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18th June 2010, 10:41
| #199 |
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19th June 2010, 05:48
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19th June 2010, 21:13
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| BHPian  | @sunil : Thank you.  I remember someone asking about bosch wiper for M800 earlier in this thread. I got bosch wiper today for my M800, Both are 17" ones and they cost 400 a pair. And they work like a charm as everybody knows. |
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19th June 2010, 21:40
| #202 | |
| BHPian | Quote:
After an year of usage I feel they are no better than other brands. They don't wipe clear and also produce lot of squeaking sound. For this monsoon I'm going to try some other brand. The same thing happened with my friends WagonR. Last year he too changed to Bosch wipers as I had highly recommended him. But now they don't wipe well making visibility poor  . - Jose. | |
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20th June 2010, 00:15
| #203 |
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20th June 2010, 03:11
| #204 | |
| BHPian Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: -_-
Posts: 315
Thanked: 132 Times
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1. More than the oil its the grade of oil that matters. The maruti genuine oil is api sf rated which is obsolete. look here for current grades. Motor Oil Grades and Service Ratings the api sm grade is the current one and the latest grade always protects your engine better, although do be warned that there is an exception to this rule, for older pushrod engines like that of the premier padmini, the lower ZDDP levels in sm grade oil can result in cam wear, but for the 800 api sm is best. So do read what the api rating of the oil you are buying is. the higher the better. 2: Well you can never change the engine oil too soon. the more often you change it the more your engine will last, neverthe less 10,000 kms or one year (which ever is earlier) is the recomended oil change interval for the 800 and is sufficient you dont need to change oil any sooner but dont change it any later either.(here too the oil ratings matter. Back in the 90's when oil grades inferior to api sf were available, the company's recomendations were:- 5000 kms for api sc 10000 kms for api sf 3: transmission oil should be changed every 20,000 kms or every 2 years, which ever is earlier. for brake oil its 40,000kms or 4 years (whichever is earlier)but about coolant i am not sure but 40,000kms is a safe range. 4:About brands i would say its a competitive market so amoungst the major brands there is not much difference in quality and the difference really wont matter to you since you arent into motorsports, that slight difference that exist matters there. But the cheaper brands usually have a lower api rating and thats the reason why they are cheaper.I used delphi's ready to use (already mixed with water in the right proportion) coolant, 2 litres set me back by 180 bucks. For break fluid you can use kbx. i used hp's gear oil on the last change. NOTE: Do monitor dipsticks every week for engine and transmission oil and the levels of coolant and break fluid reservoirs every week. If something does go wrong with your car and it starts to leak any of these fluids, in most cases people find out only when their engine seizes , transmission is ruined or the breaks fail even though the warning lights for engine oil, brakes and waer temp do exist. transmission has no warning light that i know of Also do maintain the fluid levels close t maximum but no more than the max level. more the oil in the engine, cleaner oil is available to the engine for longer since it takes longer to dirty more oil. BMW used this trick on their diesel engines to increase the service interval from 5000 to 10000 kms , they just increased the sump size and therefore the amount of oil you put in. 5: i have opened a 4 stroke engine and transmission myself and let me tell you that in a petrol engine there is absolutely no need to use engine flush as long as you are changeing oil on time. the oils contain detergents and agents that keep the dirt in suspension in the fluid , these agents break down over time. So as long as you change the oil on time there wont be a hint of carbon on most parts inside the engine. Engine flush is useful only when you have been negligent previously even then just changing the oil at a lot shorter time intervals once or twice say at 3000-5000 will give better results than using engine flush. Also dont forget to drive the car a little, right before the change so that the dirt that has settled down gets suspended in the oil and isnt left behind in the engine and transmission. 6: well , you can only tell if the brake pads are worn by taking off the wheel and checking how much of of the pad is still left for disk brakes and for drums you have to open them and see, but as long as you change the shoes in the drums along with the disks, you shouldnt have a problem since the ones in the drums usually wear out slower than the disks. Its best not to wait for the metal grinding with metal stage and judge by the sound and reduced braking. inspection should be done around 40,000 kms. 7: Timing belt you should change every 1 lakh kms or every 10 years. 8: visual inspection of the waterpump belt is sufficient, if there are cracks on it or the v grooves are excessively worn change it and tension is also something that shouldnt be ignored. 9: tie rods and ball joint repacement differs from person to person and depends on the road conditions. Though its not hard to tell when they need a change. If your steering develops even the slightest of play or the tak-tak sound on moving it left to right and back left ,get it checked. 10:wheel alignment and balancing should be done evry time you get it serviced or every alternate time if the road conditions in which you drive are exceptionally good and there are no vibrations or pulling toward any side. Also rotate the tyre ever 5000 kms to prolong their life. Well you didnt mention tuning of the car, valve gaps(tappet adjustment), timing , other electrical setting of the distributor(that is if your car has one, i really dont remember if the 5 speed 800 does) for carb cars also the air fuel mixture Also get the injectors cleaned when you notice asignificant drop in milage and performance. i used to get it done at every 40,000 but refer to your manual for the exact interval since i am not sure about this. Besides the tacho and strut braces, id suggest you stay away from other mods as i have never come accross any mechanic in india who can do these mods the correct way. it will most certainly look like a jugaad. places like autopsyche autopsyche or pandit and company do have the know how to carry out these mods the right way but they wouldnt do it mostly because there isnt much scope for profit compared to the effort these mods will take, so drop the idea. Last edited by mycarhasablower : 20th June 2010 at 03:27. | |
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20th June 2010, 05:32
| #205 | |
| Senior - BHPian  Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: DELHI
Posts: 1,396
Thanked: 125 Times
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Even i personally feel that Bosch wipers are as good as any other wipers available , i think it's only the name that they're trying to sell IMO. | |
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20th June 2010, 08:59
| #206 |
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21st June 2010, 11:22
| #207 |
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21st June 2010, 15:52
| #208 |
| Newbie Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Bangalore
Posts: 11
Thanked: 5 Times
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21st June 2010, 19:23
| #209 | |
| BHPian | Quote:
K&N doesn't make any moticeable improvement in an M800 and it doesn't meet the cost benefit when compared to the OE Filter in costwise. Its better to stick with OE and go for periodical replacement. | |
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22nd June 2010, 13:46
| #210 | |
| BHPian Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: CHENNAI / BANGALORE
Posts: 78
Thanked: 4 Times
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