[tsk1979]

Fuel pump was changed on experimental basis, but it did not work. I am thinking it has something to do with compression, as the guage showed low compression in one cylinder.

[mercedised]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Fuel pump was changed on experimental basis, but it did not work. I am thinking it has something to do with compression, as the guage showed low compression in one cylinder.

I had gone through your posts regarding the problem.But, Please can you tell me what problem you are facing. Really, sorry for inconvienence.

[sumannandy]

Sorry to hear that the problem has resurfaced again. May be the engine change would solve the problem.

[tsk1979]

@mercedised, here is the link to the post where I posted the video of the problem
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-...ml#post1247109

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Fuel pump was changed on experimental basis, but it did not work. I am thinking it has something to do with compression, as the guage showed low compression in one cylinder.

Looking closely at your thread, Can you ask them to do compression test in all 4 cylinders again ?

[SS-Traveller]

This must be the automotive case study of the decade on how not to diagnose and fix faults in an automobile. Why do I get this sneaky feeling that the issue involved is minor and inexpensive, and that TML is making a mountain out of a molehill?

Did someone swap the EGR system? The throttle sensor? Checked electrical grounding? Never mind, warranty covers an cylinder head/engine change, so let's do it...

Tanveer, my heartfelt sympathies to you for being made into a scapegoat and guinea pig for TML's incompetencies.

[Jaggu]

Ask for a replacement 0 km engine! I dont think you need to COMPROMISE any further.

Once they replaced the head, the first thing they should have checked is the compression, and if it was low, then they shouldnt have delivered the vehicle to you.

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

This must be the automotive case study of the decade on how not to diagnose and fix faults in an automobile. Why do I get this sneaky feeling that the issue involved is minor and inexpensive, and that TML is making a mountain out of a molehill?

Did someone swap the EGR system? The throttle sensor? Checked electrical grounding? Never mind, warranty covers an cylinder head/engine change, so let's do it...

Tanveer, my heartfelt sympathies to you for being made into a scapegoat and guinea pig for TML's incompetencies.

Well no it is not as easy as you are making it out to be , The problem disappears for few hundred KM after hard ECU reset. So after each change TML need to wait as ECU reset is required. So even if they try changing EGR or throttle sensor they need to follow same process.
AFAIK they have already changed ECU , Cam sensor , Temperature sensor and many more things.

Having said that the problem may not be serious at all and I have a feeling that most of the population is ignorant about minor nuances and do not bother about such issues until they become showstopper ( In any brand )

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by amitk26

Well no it is not as easy as you are making it out to be

No, no... I am absolutely not making out this to be an easy simple solution. It's just that en bloc replacement of components without actually pinpointing the fault, with no resolution of the issue at the end of it, is a great way to harass the customer. I have been following the thread for a very long time indeed, and am also aware of the steps taken by different service centres in their attempts to rectify the problem.

[tsk1979]

Well EGR has also been replaced once. I do not think there is any electronic part which has not been replaced.
However this is the first time the mechanical angle was looked at. I do not think an electronic problem can cause a loss of compression.
Here is what my hypothesis is.
The problem surfaced when the vehicle had run 7000kms.
Lets say the cause was a faulty valve, and it was leading to loss of compression.
Now running a cylinder with slightly lower compression could have also started a minor leak in the engine block. Slowly this problem started coming with vehicle heated up also.
So while doing compression test, they found the leaky valve, and replaced the head, but a minor leak in the engine block may still remain.

Right now they have asked me to run the vehicle for few 100 kms so that the new head gets properly "seated".
If the problem does not go away completely, they will again do compression test, and see if there is still a leak.
At that point I will ask them not to get a new half engine and go for the complete engine replacement.
Right now, fingers crossed.
I have 7 months of primary warranty left, and I hope this problem is solved much before this!

[amit_mechengg]

^^
even if your 7 months warranty is over they have to change the parts related to your issue. this is termed as unresolved issue. to be on a safer side please take this in writing.

same happened with my car and i compelled the exide people and mico to change parts outside warranty, as the problems started in warranty and were carried over. its not my fault.

[mercedised]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Well EGR has also been replaced once. I do not think there is any electronic part which has not been replaced.
However this is the first time the mechanical angle was looked at. I do not think an electronic problem can cause a loss of compression.
Here is what my hypothesis is.
The problem surfaced when the vehicle had run 7000kms.
Lets say the cause was a faulty valve, and it was leading to loss of compression.
Now running a cylinder with slightly lower compression could have also started a minor leak in the engine block. Slowly this problem started coming with vehicle heated up also.
So while doing compression test, they found the leaky valve, and replaced the head, but a minor leak in the engine block may still remain.

Right now they have asked me to run the vehicle for few 100 kms so that the new head gets properly "seated".
If the problem does not go away completely, they will again do compression test, and see if there is still a leak.
At that point I will ask them not to get a new half engine and go for the complete engine replacement.
Right now, fingers crossed.
I have 7 months of primary warranty left, and I hope this problem is solved much before this!

Thanks for the video link. It helped.

1)Have you taken the car to a Local mechanic ever?,if not then do so.
2) Have you cleaned all the electrical sockets that connects your ECU(or what ever electrical name of it) to the engine controls?
3)Is the problem arises even when you hold a constant throttle(>IDLE RPM).

What i understood is either your car needs Diesel Pump Tuning from a expert,Injector replacement or If the problem goes away when the RPM is raised then its due to faulty RPM setting by the TASS guys or your car needs complete flush from fuel lines to valves,pistons,...

[tsk1979]

External mechanic? And void my warranty! No ways
As for Fuel pump, well that was changed and problem persisted. Ditto for the injectors. Everything electronic has been changed and no effect. And how can faulty rpm setting cause compression loss in engine!?

[mercedised]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

External mechanic? And void my warranty! No ways
As for Fuel pump, well that was changed and problem persisted. Ditto for the injectors. Everything electronic has been changed and no effect. And how can faulty rpm setting cause compression loss in engine!?

Try external mechanics to sort out the problem and then go for SC.(always worked for me).& as you have tried every thing else then going to a local mechanic asking him what's wrong! it can be done
I did'nt knew about the compression loss problem.
I am still curious to know that "Does the problem goes away with a little raise in RPM(say 100-200RPM)"

have you replaced intake/exhaust valves,piston rings.

[tsk1979]

Its an ECU controlled system. there is no knob to rotate and set RPM.
Idle rpm for safari is 832rpm, and when vehicle is warm it sticks to 832. However on cold, it fluctuates between 800-900 rpm.
As for outside mechanic, what will he check?