[India2022]

Originally Posted by Blr_RK

Thanks for the quick reply. For my 2022 new XL6, in the both free service, I asked the technician to check and repair the dash as I was hearing loose bolt/nut sounds. This was resolved and so far no other problems. Good to know that otherwise no issues.

I have so far not faced this problem in my 2022 XL

[rich_heart]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Leather Wrap steering wheel for my brother's XL6 Zeta: The OE steering wheel of XL6 Alpha costs 9.5k, and my brother wasn't ready for such an expense.

Dear Shashi, will this replacement work for 2019 Ertiga ZXi?

[VinodDevil81]

Hi Shashi,

Can you please provide the part number of the front door tweeter's connector wire of Ertiga/XL6?

I am not sure of the correct name of this part, but what I am searching for is that small wiring harness in Ertiga Zxi+ and XL6 Alpha, that connects the lower front-door speakers with the upper tweeters.

My Ertiga VXi doesn't have tweeters, so I am planning to add the same.
I got the tweeter's part no from boodmo, and the part no is 39102M56RA0.
(Please correct me if this is wrong.)

But I couldn't find the tweeter's wiring connector's part No. from boodmo.
So I am searching for that part no, so that I can place the order for both the tweeter and the connector together.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by rich_heart

Dear Shashi, will this replacement work for 2019 Ertiga ZXi?

Should work, although the CC buttons will be dummy in your case.

Originally Posted by VinodDevil81

Hi Shashi,

Can you please provide the part number of the front door tweeter's connector wire of Ertiga/XL6?

I am not sure of the correct name of this part, but what I am searching for is that small wiring harness in Ertiga Zxi+ and XL6 Alpha, that connects the lower front-door speakers with the upper tweeters.

My Ertiga VXi doesn't have tweeters, so I am planning to add the same.
I got the tweeter's part no from boodmo, and the part no is 39102M56RA0.
(Please correct me if this is wrong.)

But I couldn't find the tweeter's wiring connector's part No. from boodmo.
So I am searching for that part no, so that I can place the order for both the tweeter and the connector together.

There is no separate wire for tweeter AFAIK, it's part of door assembly wiring harness which is different for VXi and ZXi+.

Link: Look at Sl No 94

[Leoshashi]

Update: Completed another 2900km trip to NCR and Lucknow and some pics from the same in no particular order:

Enroute to Faridabad:

Meeting with a dear friend, whose 2020 Baleno sports Export spec Alloys:

On Purvanchal Eway's airstrip:

With a friend's 2020 XL6, we bought our cars just 2 days apart:

Current Odo:

Signing off with a recent click:

Regards,
Shashi

[Leoshashi]

Some DIYs not documented due to paucity of time:

1. Throttle Body and MAP sensor cleaning, 33812 km: Removed the throttle body and MAP sensor and cleaned them comprehensively. Replaced the throttle body gasket too. Post installation, it needs to be relearnt, else MIL comes on and idle RPM will be close to 2000 RPM. Process of relearning is pretty simple:
1. Clear the DTC(You'll need a basic OBD reader for this)
2. Keep car in ignition ON mode for 40 sec or more
3. Keep car in Ignition OFF mode for 10 sec or more, repeat this sequence twice
4. Start the car without accelerator and let it idle for 30 sec or more
5. Turn it off, start again and let it idle for 30 sec or more. By now, the idle should settle to a crisp 800RPM

Also cleaned the MAP sensor with it.

2. Fuel Filter, 33812 km: During Jaisalmer trip, had to refuel from a pretty shady looking fuel station, hence decided to replace the filter. Unlike last time where I had replaced the entire filter with mounting brackets, this time I made my job much simpler by replacing only the element and used the old bracket. JFYI, I have been maintaining a 15-17k replacement interval for fuel filter.

3. Condenser coil cleaning, 36735km: I have a habit of spraying the condenser fins during all my car washes, so I wasn't expecting something horrific from the cleaning. But was surprised with the results. A lot of muck came out and the AC system will surely be breathing better now. Used a dedicated Alkaline coil cleaner Amazon Link which foams pretty well and brings out the muck with it's foaming action. I let it stay for 10 min and then flushed everything comprehensively with lots of water. Result:

Foaming action:

The crap which came out only from condenser fins, nothing else was touched!

4. Oil change and Wheel rotation, 36735 km : As has been the norm since beginning of the ownership, stuck to 5k oil change and wheel rotation policy.

Regards,
Shashi

[lxskllr]

Quick question Shashi!

Did you use MGP super cleaner for cleaning the throttle body and MAP sensor?

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by lxskllr

Quick question Shashi!

Did you use MGP super cleaner for cleaning the throttle body and MAP sensor?

Yes, basically anything which doesn't leave behind residue should be used.

Regards,
Shashi

[vaibhavyagnik]

5K oil change interval is too short. Might want to cut back and stick to OEM oil change recommendation. You will be saving money, generating a lot less waste and also doing the oil pan drain threads a favour. Great DIY and tutorial!

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by vaibhavyagnik

5K oil change interval is too short. Might want to cut back and stick to OEM oil change recommendation.

The OE 0W16 oil is not of a very good quality, degrades very quickly after 7k mark with the engine developing significant clatter. Thus will be sticking to 5k interval.

You will be saving money, generating a lot less waste and also doing the oil pan drain threads a favour.

If it's about money, oil is cheap, engine rebuilds are not. I am not letting the engine run on degraded oil even for a single kilometer. About generation of waste, how about the engine not running as efficiently as it should and in turn consuming more fuel and causing more pollution? The oil may have life left at 7k km, but a gruff sounding engine is surely not music to my ears, hence the change interval is staying at 5k, unless I find a better engine oil in 0W16 grade.

And I am least bothered about the oil pan threads going kaput, as the bolt is religiously torqued to 35Nm as per OEM recommendation during every single change.

[lemedico]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

The OE 0W16 oil is not of a very good quality, degrades very quickly after 7k mark with the engine developing significant clatter. Thus will be sticking to 5k interval.



If it's about money, oil is cheap, engine rebuilds are not. I am not letting the engine run on degraded oil even for a single kilometer. About generation of waste, how about the engine not running as efficiently as it should and in turn consuming more fuel and causing more pollution? The oil may have life left at 7k km, but a gruff sounding engine is surely not music to my ears, hence the change interval is staying at 5k, unless I find a better engine oil in 0W16 grade.

And I am least bothered about the oil pan threads going kaput, as the bolt is religiously torqued to 35Nm as per OEM recommendation during every single change.

I have the same engine in my Ciaz, and I've been using magnatec 5w-30 hybrid engine certified oil.
Give it a go, I am satisfied with its performance even after 10k kms

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by lemedico

I have the same engine in my Ciaz, and I've been using magnatec 5w-30 hybrid engine certified oil.
Give it a go, I am satisfied with its performance even after 10k kms

Magnatec has also come in 0W16 grade, will surely give it a try once warranty gets over/MASS agrees to source it for me. Link

BTW, did you notice any sluggishness or drop in efficiency after switch to 5W30? A friend tried 5W30 Shell Helix on his K15B S-Cross, and there was noticeable sluggishness and drop in efficiency. Although the engine sounded way refined with the thicker grade. What's your take on this?

Regards,
Shashi

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

The OE 0W16 oil is not of a very good quality, degrades very quickly after 7k mark with the engine developing significant clatter. Thus will be sticking to 5k interval.

If it's about money, oil is cheap, engine rebuilds are not. I am not letting the engine run on degraded oil even for a single kilometer. About generation of waste, how about the engine not running as efficiently as it should and in turn consuming more fuel and causing more pollution? The oil may have life left at 7k km, but a gruff sounding engine is surely not music to my ears, hence the change interval is staying at 5k, unless I find a better engine oil in 0W16 grade.

And I am least bothered about the oil pan threads going kaput, as the bolt is religiously torqued to 35Nm as per OEM recommendation during every single change.

Feels bad to know that the 0W16 oil is of poor quality.

How about going 1 step higher in viscocity, say 0W20 if a better oil is available? Downgrading the viscosity is not recommended but surely there will not be any harm in going one step up.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Feels bad to know that the 0W16 oil is of poor quality.

How about going 1 step higher in viscocity, say 0W20 if a better oil is available? Downgrading the viscosity is not recommended but surely there will not be any harm in going one step up.

Will try that too, but viscosity change will be the last in my options. I'll try to convince MASS to source better quality oil first, Castrol Magnatec 0W16. If that doesn't work, I'll stick to 5k intervals as much as possible. Changing viscosity sounds simple but in current engines, there are a lot of aspects. For example I remember someone within Maruti telling me that 0W16 grade was more of a need for Start-Stop system rather than efficiency. Surely it brought lesser drag and higher efficiency. Secondly, in engines with VVT, clean oil of correct viscosity is very important for the actuator to work as intended. There are a lot of other reasons too which prevent me from going higher up in viscosity.

Regards,
Shashi

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Will try that too, but viscosity change will be the last in my options. I'll try to convince MASS to source better quality oil first, Castrol Magnatec 0W16. If that doesn't work, I'll stick to 5k intervals as much as possible. Changing viscosity sounds simple but in current engines, there are a lot of aspects. For example I remember someone within Maruti telling me that 0W16 grade was more of a need for Start-Stop system rather than efficiency. Surely it brought lesser drag and higher efficiency. Secondly, in engines with VVT, clean oil of correct viscosity is very important for the actuator to work as intended. There are a lot of other reasons too which prevent me from going higher up in viscosity.

Regards,
Shashi

OK. You must have done enough research before finalizing on the decision of not going with a 0W20 oil