[a4anurag]

ODOMETER UPDATE

ODOMETER: 80,000 kms
DURATION: 32 months (technically 27 months)


Applied Shoe polish to the plastic cladding to get that 'black' colour and I am happy that it is working well so far. Has seen rains etc and one wipe, the black colour is black.




A week back the RHS bulb had failed so informed Retro Rides and asked them for a replacement under warranty but they were out of stock so instead they shipped a temporary replacement till the Morimoto ones arrive. A day before shipping the defective bulb, we checked if it was genuinely the bulb that failed or is it the igniter/ballast. Swapped the same and checked with the left side one, found it to be a dead ballast so informed Retro Rides about this development and shipped the igniter + dead ballast + replacement bulb which they had sent originally. In 3 days got the new ballast. Now everything is working normally.




Shall be servicing the car in the coming days. Have decided to get Shell Helix HX8 (5W30) grade this time.

[a4anurag]

The car had been facing an issue of violent shaking since 74,800 kms which I've described in a seperate thread along with the culprit - Link to thread

[torquecraver]

Hello sir,
I am facing idle vibrations(steering, gear knob, seats, ORVMs and Handrests ) and harshness(post 2700RPM) from my Verna 1.6D, It has done 8700kms and is due for the 1st major service. Does the car get any better after changing the engine oil and filters or should I get any other things checked like engine mounts regarding vibrations and I hear diesel clatter a lot from 1500 to 2200 RPM as well. Please help me through this.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by torquecraver

Hello sir,
I am facing idle vibrations(steering, gear knob, seats, ORVMs and Handrests ) and harshness(post 2700RPM) from my Verna 1.6D, It has done 8700kms and is due for the 1st major service. Does the car get any better after changing the engine oil and filters or should I get any other things checked like engine mounts regarding vibrations and I hear diesel clatter a lot from 1500 to 2200 RPM as well. Please help me through this.

Where do you fill in fuel from?

First get the engine oil, oil filter and air filter replaced. Then see if the issue persists. Are these issues there since Day 1?

Regarding idle vibrations, I'll suggest you to check the all the three mounts but they won't go bad unless the part is defective since Day 1.

[torquecraver]

The vibrations are present from the day 1. But the SA and all people at workshop keep telling its general for all the vernas but the vibrations are actually irritating. We can even see the orvms vibrating and even the things like phone, keys placed in the storage spaces vibrate(to an extent where we can hear them vibrating). The handrest and seats at the rear of the car too vibrate. Regarding the fuel i fill it from HPs own outlet.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by torquecraver

The vibrations are present from the day 1. But the SA and all people at workshop keep telling its general for all the vernas but the vibrations are actually irritating. We can even see the orvms vibrating and even the things like phone, keys placed in the storage spaces vibrate (to an extent where we can hear them vibrating). The handrest and seats at the rear of the car too vibrate. Regarding the fuel I fill it from HPs own outlet.

Can you record a video and share it so we can understand the issue better.

What is the idling RPM?

[torquecraver]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Can you record a video and share it so we can understand the issue better.

What is the idling RPM?

The idling RPM is 800, regarding the video part i am currently not in town where the car, sadly i cant get a video now.
Will be taking the car to service in a weeks time, I will push them to check the engine mounts and the Fuel Injectors (i have seen other threads which mentioned about harshness problems in the CRDi engines) if still not resolved i will be writing a mail to the Hyundai officials. Can i do anything better? or Should i get any other things checked as the vibration issue is present from day 1 and the harshness is felt from around 1500kms.

[Vibhanshu0923]

Hi a4anurag,

You have an immaculately maintained Creta (I was an appreciator of your swift as well )and i am truly in awe of the knowledge you have acquired about the car through your DIY undertakings. I too own a 2016 Creta SX 1.6 CRDi done around 60k kms. Recently the car has lost its punchy power delivery and the characteristic shove above 2000 RPM is completely gone. It has become supremely linear and considerably slower. As if it is a NA engine and the turbocharger is absent. There are no funny noises or jerks anywhere till 5000 RPM. Only the punch is completely gone.

The ASC, in typical behaviour, actually had the audacity to inform me that this is how the power delivery in the Creta is and that old engines lose power. A chat with the manager along with the service history of my car led them to finally acknowledge the problem and connect their OBD scan tool. I had initially suspected the boost pressure sensor, however, the scan showed ballpark values for all the sensors. They finally told me that the problem is due to the neutral switch on the gearbox. Unconvinced but lacking a better solution, i agreed to get it replaced. The car stayed the same, maybe a smidge better but it can very well be a placebo. The ASC is unable to diagnose the problem and I do not wish to keep on replacing parts upon their recommendation. Currently i am planning on getting the throttle position sensor checked however the TPS going kaput is a remote possibility given the engine is revving till 5000 RPM without any issue.

Have you (or anyone else) ever encountered such an issue? How would you recommend diagnosing the issue?

Thanks in advance.

[a4anurag]

Thank you sir for the appreciation.

Originally Posted by Vibhanshu0923

Recently the car has lost its punchy power delivery and the characteristic shove above 2000 RPM is completely gone. It has become supremely linear and considerably slower.

Have you (or anyone else) ever encountered such an issue? How would you recommend diagnosing the issue?

Regarding this issue, I have a few points that would need your attention:

1. Open and clean the EGR system properly. If possible, blank it out.
   
   
2. Open and clean the intercooler so oil inside is removed and also don't forget to clean the exterior to get rid of dust/debris accumulated over a period of time clogging the fins thereby not allowing air to pass through hampering its performance.
   
   
3. Engine air filter and fuel filter - replace both if not replaced.
   
   
4. Open and clean the MAF and boost sensor (located on the top of the intercooler).

PS: What engine oil are you currently using?

[Vibhanshu0923]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

[*]Open and clean the EGR system properly. If possible, blank it out.

[*]Open and clean the intercooler so oil inside is removed and also don't forget to clean the exterior to get rid of dust/debris accumulated over a period of time clogging the fins thereby not allowing air to pass through hampering its performance.

Thank you for the prompt reply sir. Will definitely look into both the above suggestions. In fact, EGR cleaning was on my list as well.

The issue appeared suddenly and there was no gradual drop in performance. It so happened that everything was fine the previous night and there was no punch the next day. This is the reason why I am suspecting some sensor that has gone wrong. Both suggestions above are great and will surely help me gain some much-needed performance

Originally Posted by a4anurag

[*]Engine air filter and fuel filter - replace both if not replaced.

[*]Open and clean the MAF and boost sensor (located on the top of the intercooler).


PS: What engine oil are you currently using?

The car went for its 60k kms scheduled service just 500 kms back and is running fresh oil and a new air filter. I have been sticking to the Hyundai service center's synthetic engine oil thus far. They usually have 2 options, Indian Oil and Shell. I have been sticking with Shell since the beginning.

P.S. - Your car looks much younger than its 80,000 kms odo reading. Kudos to your maintenance!

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by Vibhanshu0923

The issue appeared suddenly and there was no gradual drop in performance. It so happened that everything was fine the previous night and there was no punch the next day. This is the reason why I am suspecting some sensor that has gone wrong.

I can think of MAF, Boost sensor. Did you check the plumbing to the turbo and intercooler?

Originally Posted by Vibhanshu0923

The car went for its 60k kms scheduled service just 500 kms back and is running fresh oil and a new air filter. I have been sticking to the Hyundai service center's synthetic engine oil thus far.

Sorry for not being clear, what I wanted to ask was, whether it is 15W40 or 5W30 grade oil that is being used in your car?

[Vibhanshu0923]

I had specifically asked them to check both these sensors. The MAF sensor was checked while I was still present with the car in the workshop through OBD scan as well as by replacing it with a donor 1.6 CRDi engine in their service centre. The sensor was functioning normally and the replacement brought about no changes. I will get the boost pressure sensor inspected again in my presence. Thank you for the help and suggestions, a4anurag. I shall work on these to get my Creta back to its glory.

Originally Posted by a4anurag

whether it is 15W40 or 5W30 grade oil that is being used in your car?

My apologies for missing the common sense assumption in your question . I have been sticking to 15W40 oil till now.

[a4anurag]

UPDATES

As per Post No.: 346, the humming issue was becoming intolerable so we decided to get the clutch set changed when time is feasible and around the 80,000 kms service. As days passed by, another issue w.r.t engine vibration cropped which turned out to be due to a Faulty Neutral Switch. During that period, the slave cylinder was changed as it was leaking brake fluid and also the neutral switch (obviously!). During this exercise, we decided to change the clutch set and not wait till 80,000 kms to happen. Odometer was around 78,700 kms when the clutch change happened.

I didn't want to get the stock clutch set from Hyundai i.e. Valeo makes. So scouted for aftermarket options and landed up picking the set made by LuK simultaneously, picked up the release bearing also:

Brand Name: LuK
Part Name: Clutch Set – Clutch plate + Pressure plate
Part Number (LuK's): 62440-16090
Price: ₹5,300.00

Part Name: Bearing – Clutch Release
Part Number: 41421-32000
Price: ₹1,220.00

Clutch release bearing


Packaging


Part number and details on the box


Pressure Plate




Clutch plate


New release bearing fixed, clutch fork cleaned and greased


Was a day's work starting at 8 am till 4 pm. The smoothness is back now and the car is eager to move ahead.

After the clutch change had been completed, we had to address another minor issue of gear slotting - 1st and 3rd gear were notchy and troublesome especially in bumper-to-bumper traffic where the car spent most of its time.

After a bit of troubleshooting and finding where the culprit could be... It was traced out to be the gear lever bush located on the gear lever base (bush where the lever sockets fit into). Luckily as per MOBIS that was the last one available and cheapest part ever purchased for my Creta.

Part Name: Bush
Part Number: 43753-0U100
Price: ₹27.00

Was a 10-minutes job to replace the bush but to reach that bush and to facilitate the adjustment of the gear shifting cable, a couple of parts need to be opened i.e. complete central console, battery, battery tray, ECU, air filter box.

Bush










Old one out, new one in


Gears are sure-slotting and smooth in terms of movement and feel.

By the time everything was set and working as it should, the odometer hit 82,000 kms mark so we decided to perform the 80K kms service.

80,000 kms SERVICE

Following activities were performed:

1. Engine oil - Shell Helix HX8 (5W30) - ₹2350 for 5 litres
2. Engine oil filter - ₹425 (26320-2A500)
3. Engine air filter - ₹320 (28113-A0200)
4. A/C filter - ₹250 (aftermarket)
5. Intercooler cleaning
6. MAF sensor cleaning
7. Boost sensor cleaning
8. Proper car wash - using newly purchased StarQ pressure washer

Boost sensor removed for cleaning and then the Intercooler too


The oil that came out of the intercooler


Shell Helix HX8 (5W30)


StarQ W4 pressure washer was purchased recently by BHPian interc00led and he got a chance to put this to use during the service. Excellent product with a VFM price.


The clamp fell down from the rear spoiler. Need to get this fixed


That's all for now. Couple more big updates on the way. Stay tuned!

[a4anurag]

Front Door Rust Issue

It's been almost a month since this rust was discovered and got time yesterday evening to patch it a bit. Need to work more on the same which I'll be doing this weekend.

Using sandpaper, removed the rust and cleaned the surface as much as I could. Wiped down the areas with 100% IPA. After drying, apply primer on all affected points, let it dry. Once dry, applied 3 coats of white paint over the points.

Rust spot 1


Rust spot 2


Primer applied


White paint - 2 coats were done when clicking the picture


White paint - 2 coats


Main culprit (door beading) - spongy material that absorbs water and retains it causing rust on those spots. Nowhere else on the door, rust is observed and neither on the rear doors nor anywhere else on the car. It is this spongy material that is causing the issue.


Plan to get the Value Pack from ComPaint website for my car to deal with this issue in a better way.

[a4anurag]

Got some free time today so applied shoe polish to the cladding to get that black shine back:

Before application:








After application:

Rear Spoiler - Gloss Black

Also had removed the spoiler from the car as the clamp holding it had fallen, so decided to get it painted in black at my FNG.

No spoiler


Another angle without the spoiler


Aftermarket spoiler - White colour


Repainted the spoiler in Gloss Black


Another angle