Just back from another drive to Sringeri. I must say that the best part of ~750 kms drive over the weekend was the 140 odd kms of twisties between Aldur - Balehonnur - Jayapura - Sringeri. The roads are butter smooth and the tank just ate up the roads. Just can't get enough of the drive up and down the hills with sunlight streaming through the coffee plantations
Sunset on the way to Chikmagalur Fog & Mist - On the way to Belur
After all the hoysala temple hunting over the last few months, I was ready to pay homage to the pinnacle of Hoysala art - Chennakeshava temple, Belur. In my heart of hearts I was not sure if the temple will live up to its name as I had already visited some real beauties in the past. Now there is no doubt that the Belur temple is the best example of hoysala art that remains.
Chennakeshava Temple - Belur
Decided to reach the temple by 7.30 am to beat the busloads of tourists who drown the place over weekends. Even then we had a steady stream of devotees & tourists streaming in and out.
Some History
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The temple was commissioned by King Vishnuvardhana in 1117 AD. Scholars are divided about the reasons for the construction of the temple. The military successes of Vishnuvardhana is considered a probable reason.Some scholars believe Vishnuvardhana commissioned the temple to surpass his overlord, King Vikramaditya VI of the Western Chalukya Empire (who ruled from Basavakalyan), after his initial military victories against the Chalukyas.
According to another theory, Vishnuvardhana was celebrating his famous victory against the Chola dynasty of Tamil country in the battle of Talakad (1116 AD), which resulted in the annexation of Gangavadi (modern southern Karnataka) by the Hoysalas.Another theory points to Vishnuvardhana's conversion from Jainism to Vaishnavism (a sect of Hinduism) after coming under the influence of saint Ramanujacharya, considering this is a predominantly Vaishnava temple in sculptural iconography.
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Source - Wikipedia
Vishnuvardhana with his queen Shantala Devi My take: I lean towards the victory over Cholas as the violent inspiration for the temple. Why? 2 main reasons:
1. The image of the lion/tiger subduing the elephant is every where in the main temple. The elephant represents the great Cholas and the lion/tiger represents the hoysala kings
2. The recurring theme of Ugra Narasimha - right from the toranas on the entrances to the ceiling of the main hall to the wall panels. Everywhere you turn, you will see this image of Narasimha killing hiranyakashipu and unlike other narasimha figures in various temples, these actually show Lord Narasimha pulling out the asura’s entrails.
Ugra Narasimha - Main Sanctum Ceiling (Cropped)
Note: When in the main sanctum, pay the Rs 30 camera charge and ask the lady to light up the ceiling. You have got to look at it and experience the detailing as words and pics don't do justice.
Ugra Narasimha - As center piece of Ashtadigpalakas Ugra Narasimha - Wall Panel
The temple took at little more than a century to build from the time it was sanctioned and had multiple well known sculptors contributing. The most famous of them is Jakanachari, who was the master craftsman.
The temple in itself is a masterclass in artistic detailing with each frieze, panel, ceiling and mini temple capturing every small detail of size, shape & form. Right from the small bells that adorn anklets to various weapons of war, every detail is just about perfect. The bigger surprise is that all of this still exists as on date and has survived the vagaries of nature and changing fortunes of the land.
Don't miss the woman theme running across the wall panels of the main hall. This is again a surprise as most of the hoysala temples don't focus as much on women and tend to fill their walls & ceilings with gods & demigods. Shantala devi, wife of King Vishnuvardhana who commissioned this temple could have been a big reason for this recurring theme as she was supposedly a fine dancer. Local folklore also mentions that the ‘Shilabalikas’, maidens adorning the top of each pillar, are modeled around Shantala devi.
Ladies on the wall panels
Trivia - The Kappe Chanigaraya temple got its name because a frog was found embedded in the Chennakesava idol that was carved for the temple.
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As the story goes, Jakanachari left his family and entered the services of the various kings of Hoyasalas and produced works by which, his fame is upheld even today. His son Dankanachari grew up and decided to go in search of his father and reached Belur . At Belur , the Chennakeshava temple was in the course of erection , where the young man remarked that one of the images had blemish. Challenging this remark, the sculptor, who was none other than his father Jakanachari ,vowed to cut off his right hand, if any defect was to be found in the image.
In order to test this, the figure was covered with sandal paste and to everyone's surprise ,the paste dried everywhere except on the navel. On further examination, a cavity was found which contained a frog, sand and water. This way, the idol got the name of "Kappe Chanigaraya"(Kappe=Frog in Kannada). He had no choice but to cut off his right hand as per his word. On further inquiry about the boy, they became aware of the relationship between the sculptor and the boy.
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Source -
http://teamgsquare.blogspot.in/2010/...l#.WLwnS2997IV Kappe Chanigaraya Temple
The most talked about part of the temple is the Shilabalikas or śālabhaρjikā meaning 'breaking a branch of a sala tree'. It's hard to miss these beautiful women in various forms who adorn the top of every pillar in the temple.
Darpana Sundari Shilabalika - Woman staring into the mirror
One part of the temple that none of the online sources talk about or even mention is the pillared walkway that adjoins the temple wall right next to the temple pond. This walkway contains an assorted mix of idols & sculpture, which I guess has been bought here from various places, none of which belong to a single time period. Some of the interesting idols that caught my eye
[b]Vishnu in various forms[b]
Hanuman Nagaraja
Few more pics from the visit
Thus ended a totally satisfying weekend and now its back to the grind for the next few days. As usual, the car did not throw up anything unusual and returned a FE of 14.5 kmpl.