[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by mukeshgoel

But your Swift is newer than mine (May'13 VIN Code – ED). Then why did they change it at 40k service in your car?

Owners manual says 20K interval but when I took the car for 20K they said they have got a service bulletin that says transmission oil only to be replaced every 40K kms.

When I took it for 40K service, it was changed and then directly at 80K service. So by this the next change would be at 120K unless there are new service bulletin revising the change interval.

[mukeshgoel]

What do you suggest, should I get it changed? It has never been changed.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by mukeshgoel

What do you suggest, should I get it changed? It has never been changed.

Change it as it hasn't been changed since purchase.

[a4anurag]

Sad UPDATE:

Check this link for the older post and the first instance of Clutch judder / Vibrations issue which cropped up on my Blue Streak (Post No. 345 in my ownership thread).

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...ml#post3717995

Sad to report the vibrations are back. Vibrations are felt at the same point between 78 to 83 kmph or 1950 to 2100 rpm. Neither below nor above the said range.

First odometer the problem detected at 42K kms and changed clutch plates, pressure plate at 43K kms almost an year back.

Now again it has raised its ugly head at 83K kms.

So a difference of odometer is 40K kms and the issue has resurfaced. Surprising but I am more puzzled.

Thinking what to do now.

[F150]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Sad UPDATE:

Check this link for the older post and the first instance of Clutch judder / Vibrations issue which cropped up on my Blue Streak (Post No. 345 in my ownership thread).

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...ml#post3717995

Sad to report the vibrations are back. Vibrations are felt at the same point between 78 to 83 kmph or 1950 to 2100 rpm. Neither below nor above the said range.

First odometer the problem detected at 42K kms and changed clutch plates, pressure plate at 43K kms almost an year back.

Now again it has raised its ugly head at 83K kms.

So a difference of odometer is 40K kms and the issue has resurfaced. Surprising but I am more puzzled.

Thinking what to do now.

Very surprising, my 2010 swift with 58K on the odo is still running fine on stock clutch.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by F150

Very surprising, my 2010 swift with 58K on the odo is still running fine on stock clutch.

It is surprising indeed. In the Clutch Judder thread that I shared, BHPian Potenza had replaced the clutch plates just like I did and after a while, even he reported that the Judder is back.

I quote him here.

Originally Posted by Potenza

Anyways, with regards to my car. I had replaced the same components as you did at around 36K kms. My car is now at 47,200 km and the news is not very good. The ugly vibrations have returned and I am really pulling my hair on this one now.

Initially the vibrations started at 20K. I finally replaced the said components at 36K. But now I have no clue why the same thing is happening within 11K Kms of the clutch change.

My driving pattern is the same, the route I drive on is the same, the amount of traffic has seen no change.

[Potenza]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

It is surprising indeed. In the Clutch Judder thread that I shared, BHPian Potenza had replaced the clutch plates just like I did and after a while, even he reported that the Judder is back.

I quote him here.

Well the second time I changed my clutch, the SA sent me pictures of my clutch plate. To my surprise the clutch plate and the springs in the middle were totally damaged. The clutch plate was worn unevenly and there was also a clear damage mark on the inner part of the plate. It looked as if something really hard had struck the plate. In his opinion this happens only when the clutch plate is not installed properly. If the plate and release bearing are not aligned perfectly the problem will keep recurring.

Anyways, I have sold that car at 50,000 km and the Swift story for me has ended.

In spite of the recurring clutch issue I would still recommend the car. Thoroughly enjoyed driving it for 3 years!

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by Potenza

Well the second time I changed my clutch, the SA sent me pictures of my clutch plate.

If you don't mind can you send me the pictures? I want to check my car's plate condition when I open the gearbox.

Thanks in advance.

[a4anurag]

Guys, Just bought a pair of Philips Xtreme Vision LED - P21/5W 1157 Type.

See the link below for other details.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-do...ml#post4013346

To keep it precise:

Philips Xtreme Vision LED


The LED Bulb:


Parking Lamp - OEM vs LED (Left is OEM and Right is LED)


Brake Light - OEM vs LED (Left is OEM and Right is LED)

[a4anurag]

Back with an Happy UPDATE:

With 86,000 kms on the odometer, it was a while back that the famous, ugly clutch judder/vibrations reappeared on my Swift. I could control my emotions and keep driving it for 3000 kms but I couldn't resist any more so I gave in for the replacement. Initially it was only a Clutch and Pressure plate change but I did get the Flywheel changed too since it was never changed and best if changed at a time. For changing the clutch plates, most of the front end needs to be removed like gearbox, wheels, drive shafts, battery, air filter box, Coolant reservoir I did think why not get the bushes changed too. So bought them at the same time from MGP.

Here's the list of what all were replaced at my FNG:

1. Clutch Plate
2. Pressure Plate
3. Flywheel
4. Link Rods
5. Bushes for Front Strut
6. Bushes for Stabilizer Bar

Never were the bushes changed in these 86K kms and I did voluntarily change it even though they were good. MASS didn't change it at 80K service saying they are good which should last me another 10-20K kms. I ignored and went the FNG route for a voluntary replacement. Bought all these items at the nearest MGP Stores and handed my car to the mechanic.

After a bit of cooling time given to the car, Battery, Air filter box with MAF, Coolant reservoir were removed. After that the gearbox mount too was removed. This was followed by removal of both wheels, discs, lower arms, struts for inspection. It was during this the mechanic found that out the link rods are shot needing replacement.

Work progress was ok enough but at times slow. Took 7 hours to complete the job with 1 hour lunch break. Here are some images of the job done. Attaching in no particular order:

Air intake sealed after removing filter box with MAF


Battery and coolant reservoir out


Front Strut


Front Strut free to be opened


Front Strut out


Gearbox removed


Old Clutch plate and Pressure plate on the engine


Old Clutch plate


Old Pressure Plate


Old Flywheel


Old Link Rods


New Link rods fixed


Parts of the strut opened to replace bushes


Springs held together under tension


Strut dust cover - Old vs New


Bushes changed, surface cleaned and re-fixed


Another shot


Stabilizer bar bush


New Flywheel In


New Clutch plate and Pressure plate In


Clutch Plate - Old vs New


Clutch Plate - Old vs New (Other side)


Flywheel - Old vs New


Old Flywheel Surface


Pressure Plate - Old vs New


Pressure Plate - Old vs New (Other side)


Parts Cost and Number for reference


VERDICT:

1) She is now back to her original smoothness post the Plates and Flywheel change with no vibration / Clutch judder at 2000 RPM.

2) Post the bush change, I have clocked 200 kms and find the suspension to be better in absorbing bumps plus the thud over undulations is reduced especially over concrete roads, the car is silent.

I am happy!

Hopefully this is the last major thing that I would be doing on the car till she is there with me. I don't want these ugly vibrations to reappear till that time she is with me. I am tired of this judder issue. In conclusion, my Blue Streak is now peaceful and happy!

[a4anurag]

Was down with fever so couldn't get the car aligned & balanced so went out to MRF T&S Centre and completed the alignment, balancing and Rotation. All inclusive - Wheel Alignment, Wheel Balancing and Wheel Rotation plus Air top-up, I was charged 400.

Balancing: All 4 wheels took 10g weights.

Alignment: Toe was out which was adjusted:

Initial values:
Left : 1.0mm
Right: 0.6mm

Post Adjustment:
Left : 2.0mm
Right: 2.0mm







Michelin's are holding up well at 26,000 kms since its addition on my car. Should last me the life of the car easily.

[a4anurag]

Went on a recent trip to Belum Caves where I could capture this odometer reading:


__________________________________________________ __________

So, Now I am back with another usual odometer update today while returning home from office.

MILESTONE UPDATE - 90,000 kms



A collage of all odometer milestones in its journey with me. One blank space left for the BIG figure!


Post cleaning the EGR and driving it over 2,500 kms, just plugged the OBD reader and compared how the EGR valve is opening and closing with respect to engine RPM. Here are two graphs of the same.





When acceleration is demanded or at idle, the EGR valve is closed so there is a dip in the graph. The moment the accelerator is eased off, the valve opens to send exhaust gas into the intake manifold. When cruising at constant speed the EGR valve is more-or-less open at the same position circulating exhaust gases into the intake.

With zero stock of System-D, I had to get a bottle of Adon-D from IOC filling station that I regularly visit. Added 20 ml in a full tank of diesel (32 litres)


Will be calling these guys for the routine 90,000 kms service


To make things easier for me I bough this already from my MGP stockist for ₹2000 after discount





Shall be changing the following during this service:

• Engine oil;
• Fuel Filter;
• Air filter;
• Cabin Air filter;
• Gear knob (current one has lost its silver finish and is looking bad).
• Coolant replenishing with good quality distilled water from my QA Laboratory

[a4anurag]

With the Hella Curvo wipers becoming horrible to live with during rain, I decided to get rid of them after having it on my car for 10.5 months. Didn't want to experiment anymore so got a cheaper set of wipers.

Bosch Conventional wipers set for Maruti Swift

Driver's side: 21"
Passenger Side: 19"

Cost for the set I paid was ₹320. Bought it from a local accessory dealer.







Left one is Hella Curvo and Right one is Bosch

[a4anurag]

90,000 kms Service Update



I had the service kit and Engine Oil with so I have removed that cost from the service bill cost.

Jobs done:

• Engine oil change
• Engine oil filter change
• Air filter change
• Fuel filter change
• Cabin Air filter change
• Brakes Cleaning

PS: EGR Cleaning was refused by me.

So it totals to ₹6,600 when including the oil, service kit and labour.

Labour rates have increased on an average of 400 - 500 per model ONLY in South India as per the ASC hence the increase in labour rates from ₹1870 to ₹2285.

The updated list of labour rates was put up on the wall at the ASC but I forgot to take a picture.

They washed and polished the whole interiors. No part was left unpolished (damn even the seat, steering wheel, door pads).

[a4anurag]

This is how my car's filter's look when replaced before it's interval, reason, I had to fight with the SA to get the filter replaced against the schedule. The SA whom I interacted was new at MASS and was too adamant to go by the manual and wasn't budging at all. I had to meet the Manager to get things going!

1) Engine Air Filter:
Manual says: Replace after every 20,000 KM. Cleaning not required.

I do it every 10K kms thanks to my running and polluted environment that makes me feel that extending the interval to 20K kms is an overkill as the air filter is a very crucial piece in the engine proper functioning!

Engine Air Filter


1) Cabin Air Filter a.k.a A/C Filter:

Manual says nothing for it's interval but I can say the same time as the engine air filter for the A/C one too.

Cabin A/C Filter


__________________________________________________ ____________

Have got this tube of Gearbox oil additive from Amazon.in for ₹700. Will be adding it soon and shall update with any differences felt.

LiquiMoly Gearbox Oil Additive


__________________________________________________ ____________

Gear shifter knob Replacement

With heavy usage of the gear shifter the paint on the silver cap along with the gear number marking was lost and wasn't good to see it though there was no problem in shifting but aesthetically it was bad so I decided to get to replacement. The main problem was how to remove the knob off the shifter rod. I was all this while thinking it is a screw type and exerting pressure in anti-clockwise direction to free the knob but no use. Searched couple of Suzuki and Swift forum where I come across a post mentioning it is a press-fit type and not screw type. This is when I understood that I was doing wrong all this while.

Had two choices, one is same Swift knob or use the Ciaz's knob that looks even more premium and no worry of paint wearing off again though price is similar. Initially I was fixed on getting the Swift knob but thanks to BHPian Leoshashi gave me an idea to get the Ciaz one as it looks and feels premium over the OEM one.

Agreed, went to MGP store and compared both, may be psychological problem or I need to get my eyes checked, I bought the Swift one as I found the inner diameter of the Ciaz one to be bigger concluding it won't fit in the Swift. Paid the amount and came home, then while browsing Team-BHP, I get the link to MOD Noopster's post where he had installed the Ciaz's gear knob on his 2006 Swift VXi.


This made me think why won't it fit my car so I go back to the MGP store and ask for the Ciaz one and give the Swift one back to them. As I am regular customer the agreed for a exchange and paid me the balance ₹40 as the Ciaz one is cheaper than the Swift's golf ball!

Swift Gear Knob (Image below):

Part Name: Knob, Gear Shift CO
Part Number: 28113M75J21-GJL
Colour: Grey (Swift's one is black, so I we need 28113M67K21-GJL)
Price: ₹ 378



Ciaz Gear Knob (Image below):

Part Name: Knob, Gear Shift CONT
Part Number: 28113M79M00-C48
Price: ₹ 330




PROCEDURE:

1. Engage the hand brake and have the car in Neutral ('N');
   
   
2. Hold the base of the boot and lift it to remove the panel surrounding the shifter boot
   
   
3. Once the panel is removed slowly press down on the shifter boot
   
   
4. Gradually pressing down will remove the boot from the shifter knob support ring;
   
   
5. After the boot is removed from the support ring (creamish-white thing), insert either the panel removal tool ('V' shaped tool) or a flat head screw driver in between the knob and that support ring
   
   
6. With mild pressure yank the knob up so it separates from the shifter rod;
   
   
7. After removing the knob, lift the boot up and coil it around the support ring as it was initially. Do NOT forget this before proceeding to the next step.
   
   
8. Once the knob is removed, place the new knob in the same orientation over the 'T' groove and press down hard to fit it tight over the support ring
   
   
9. Apply mild pressure again and see if things are tight and firm with no play in the gear knob.
   
   
10. Refit the shifter boot into the assembly and fit the surrounding panel. That's it. We are done!

Pictures of the D.I.Y.:

Paint worn out knob (OEM)


Hold at the arrows shown and lift up to remove the shifter surround panel


Panel removed


Shifter boot lifted to expose the shifter assembly


Clips that hold the boot firmly


Shifter Assy (Note the mention of SX4)


Boot pulled down to expose the knob support ring


OEM gear knob removed


'T' type rod rather than the regular 'screw' type fitment


Ciaz gear knob fixed


A view of the gear knob at night time (Lovely font and chrome ring surround)


Smooth and nice texture with the correct contours that makes holding this knob a pleasure when shifting


Happy Shifting!