[dass]

Looks awesome. I went to the website in the hope that I can order the same for my Dzire, but looks like this is not compatible with Dzire. Anyways, do keep us posted on your experience and I will continue to check for the one which fits the Dzire.

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by dass

Looks awesome. I went to the website in the hope that I can order the same for my Dzire, but looks like this is not compatible with Dzire. Anyways, do keep us posted on your experience and I will continue to check for the one which fits the Dzire.

I believe that the center console for the Dzire is also same as the Ertiga. If so, you can order the same. As you can see from the pictures, the width of the base if exactly the same as the width of the center console and fits precisely.

On experience, This will last long as It is currently doing duty in my WagonR and have faced no issues or breakages.

In terms of driving the Ertiga with the armrest, Its only 40 kms which I have driven of which 9 kms was on BETL where I could notice that its fitted exactly to my height and requirements.

[alokgunhal]

The Ertiga Experience just gets better and better. The addition of the arm rest looks perfect and matches the Ertiga to a T. It is a welcome addition to the driving pleasure one has had driving this car. @paragsachania I do look forward to seeing this and experiencing the Drive again!

[extreme_torque]

Parag, one of my known is interested in buying the Ertiga and sceptical about the A/C performance given the small engine and large greenhouse. Would you be able to comment on the effectiveness of the A/C in a place like Delhi (Ambient temperatures over 45 Degrees)

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by extreme_torque

Parag, one of my known is interested in buying the Ertiga and sceptical about the A/C performance given the small engine and large greenhouse. Would you be able to comment on the effectiveness of the A/C in a place like Delhi (Ambient temperatures over 45 Degrees)

Let me be honest: The A/C takes a while to cool the entire cabin in case you have made a mistake of parking under direct sun. Easily 10-15 minutes to satisfactorily cool every area for that matter. Large space over your heads, long cabin till the boot door, huge glass areas all over.

In my case, I have experienced this couple of times in Bangalore with temperatures soaring at 37-38 Degrees but what I have for the seat covers is something which is a major heat generator too!

All thanks to the huge glass area, I would rate the AC 7/10 in Peak summers.

However, whenever we have had a drive during the same summer at nights, the rear AC is usually turned off after few minutes as the font AC takes care of the cooling effectively.

I am contemplating 100% transparent heat resistant film for the front as that is the major area where heat from the windshield bakes up the dashboard as well when parked under hot sun.

But another month and summer is almost over for me!

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by extreme_torque

Parag, one of my known is interested in buying the Ertiga and sceptical about the A/C performance given the small engine and large greenhouse. Would you be able to comment on the effectiveness of the A/C in a place like Delhi (Ambient temperatures over 45 Degrees)

I agree on the larger greenhouse and cabin size whic means longer AC usage durations to cool the cabin but the trick is:

1) Close the windows with slight gap left so that hot air escapes and heat doesn't build up in the cabin.
Caution: not open enough for theft.

2) Once started driving roll down all windows for 2-3 minutes to send all hot air passout, later on, switch ON the A/C at a higher blower setting (3-4 position) and after a while keep it at setpoint 2.

Following these, the cabin cools faster and the temperature attaining time is lesser hence lower load on all components and better FE. In Hyderabad the temperatures hover around 41-43 degree C.

Anurag.

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

1) Close the windows with slight gap left so that hot air escapes and doesn't build up on the cabin. Caution: not open enough for theft.

2) Once stated driving til down all at downs for 2-3 minutes to key all hot air pad out, later on, switch ON the A/C at a higher blower setting (3-4 position) and after a while keep it at setpoint 2.

Classic, ain't it . This remains the best method to cool the cabin by letting the Hot air accumulated inside to pass out. Keeping the AC in Fresh Air mode for the initial minutes also helps introduce outside air (comparatively less hotter to In cabin air) and results in faster cooling too.

[denver85]

Wow, two Ertiga ownership thread discussing the same topic. The effectiveness of AC, that also in the last days if extreme summer
I felt the same thing, it takes time to cool the cabin if parked under the sun. But once the cabin is cool, it's really comfortable. Tested this in temperatures ranging 40-42 and never felt uncomfortable.

Originally Posted by a4anurag

I agree on the larger greenhouse and cabin size whic means longer AC usage durations to cool the cabin but the trick is:
1) Close the windows with slight gap left so that hot air escapes and heat doesn't build up in the cabin.
Caution: not open enough for theft.
2) Once started driving roll down all windows for 2-3 minutes to send all hot air passout, later on, switch ON the A/C at a higher blower setting (3-4 position) and after a while keep it at setpoint 2.

Originally Posted by paragsachania

Classic, ain't it . This remains the best method to cool the cabin by letting the Hot air accumulated inside to pass out. Keeping the AC in Fresh Air mode for the initial minutes also helps introduce outside air (comparatively less hotter to In cabin air) and results in faster cooling too.

I does almost the same thing mentioned by you guys :
1) Open the driver side door (only if the door is not blocking anything)
2) Start the engine and roll down all the four windows (I done it standing outside if it's really hot after making sure the gear is in neutral and hand brake engaged)
3) Switch on the blower to speed 3 (including the rear one)
4) After 15 secs, switch on the AC in Fresh air mode
5) 1 minute of idling, you are ready to go (don't forget to close the driver side door if it's open)
6) After traveling around 500 m, close all the windows
7) Reduce the blower speed to 2 (and switch of the rear one if no one in the middle/last row)
7) Wait for another 1-2 minutes, and change the AC setting to Circulation mode

By following this, I found the AC effective within 5-10 minutes.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by denver85

I does almost the same thing mentioned by you guys :

2) Start the engine and roll down all the four windows
3) Switch on the blower to speed 3 (including the rear one)
4) After 15 secs, switch on the AC in Fresh air mode
5) 1 minute of idling, you are ready to go (don't forget to close the driver side door if it's open)

Good that you follow this but hope the A/C is used only after the engine has reached the optimum operating temperature else you ruining the engine in long run.

Point 5 - I see your doing 1 minute idling, that is a lot of time buddy, you are wasting fuel and building up engine heat as no effective cooling is happening since the car is standstill.

Anurag.

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Good that you follow this but hope the A/C is used only after the engine has reached the optimum operating temperature else you ruining the engine in long run.

C'mon now! More than the AC, there are various other factors that would ruin the engine in long run. Over revving, redlining quite often, Hard braking and acceleration, lugging or for that matter major misses like not changing fluids on time.

I am yet to know about a case where someone said his engine didn't last its life or lost refinement just because he was turning the AC on as soon he started the car. The AC attribute contributes very less when it comes to "ruining" the life of the Engine.

And in today's cars (even in my WagonR), even if you left the AC Switch in ON Position, when you crank the engine next, the Compressor starts working on after a second after the engine comes to life. It is designed that way to take care of such unwarranted loads.

That way, even when you turn the steering wheel to full circle when stationary, the Electrical (Alternator) takes a load. So is the case when you turn your electrical devices on. Imagine the case of cars with high wattage speakers and amplifiers - They obviously put load on the Battery (and hence the alternator).

Instead, I would say its better to drive sedately for 3-4 kms once you take your car out from the gate and then get into the regular commute mode. This will do more than good to your engine.

[funkykar]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Good that you follow this but hope the A/C is used only after the engine has reached the optimum operating temperature else you ruining the engine in long run.

Come on. Come on!!!!

Usage of AC = Load.

Does that mean, one shouldn't even drive the car till it reaches optimal temperature?

Does it mean, you will not have any luggage/passengers in the car until it reaches optimal temperature?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

C'mon now! More than the AC, there are various other factors that would ruin the engine in long run.

Originally Posted by funkykar

Does that mean, one shouldn't even drive the car till it reaches optimal temperature?

Guys, Ok, let me rephrase my sentence of not using the A/C and running of the engine - all I meant was to wait for a while till the oil circulates out from the sump to all parts to lubricate it. Using the A/C before the engine reaches optimum temporaries will put unnecessary load not so much to brake it into pieces or seize the internals.

Drive around for 5-6 kms without any hard acceleration and after this using the A/C will be better.

Apologies if I have communicated a wrong method.

Anurag.

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Guys, Ok, let me rephrase my sentence of not using the A/C and running of the engine - all I meant was to wait for a while till the oil circulates out from the sump to all parts to lubricate it. Using the A/C before the engine reaches optimum temporaries will put unnecessary load not so much to brake it into pieces or seize the internals.

Drive around for 5-6 kms without any hard acceleration and after this using the A/C will be better.

Apologies if I have communicated a wrong method.

Anurag.

Oil Grades specified as stock these days are becoming more and more thinner. From 20w40 used in most cars earlier, we are mostly using 0,5,15w in most of the cars that we see.

I could easily notice a tremendous difference in the idle RPMs during every cold start in the WagonR when I moved from 20W40 to 5w30. While it was at 1500RPM earlier during a chilled morning start, it easily reached 2000-2100 with the thinner grade oil. The engine also felt more rev-happy with this. It was evident that this oil was circulating faster than the 20w40.

Now, coming back to putting unnecessary load to the engine with the AC - I would still say its totally OK to turn the AC On and drive after that Turbo Idle but ensure that you are gentle on the pedal at least for the initial 3-4 kms like you mention.

[paragsachania]

The 20,000 Kms Update:

The Ertiga hit the 20k figure on the Odo yesterday night. Its about 8 months since we bought it and guess the running is neither too much nor too less.

The additions/Modifications carried out so far:

• 100/90w Philips Rally Bulbs with Relay Kit
• White light LED for interior light(s)
• Star-Mats 3D tray mats
• OE Spoiler
• Tire upgraded to Michelin XM2 (205/60/R15)

Apart from this, 2 simple DIYs over the last few months added some comfort and basic feature into the Ertiga:

• DIY Armrest Install
• DIY 2nd Accessory Socket Install

Here are a few latest photos of my Ertiga taken in various locations over the last few months of usual errands and some weekend drives:

No prizes for guessing - Hesarghatta Grasslands

3 of we colleagues at work picked our rides almost in the same month and we headed for a photoshoot:

From a weekend drive to Belgaum and Goa few days back:

Taken from one of those beautiful western ghats near Karwar connecting Dandeli:

Tire Upgrade

The Good Years were noisy; All the more noisier on Concrete roads. I was pampered with XM2 running on my WagonR for the excellent experience I have had on that car with no ABS and so called unexpected handling expected out of a tallboy.

At around 16,500 on the ODO, I changed all the tires to 205/60/15 and installed them on the OE Alloys that I had bought from the ASC during delivery. I carefully evaluated this decision on the profile (195 against 205) ascertaining that it should not scrap the arches at rear or inner walls in the front on full load and hair pin curves.

I am glad everything is normal and the tires has no such side effects. We drove 4 adults and luggage to Belgaum-Chorla and the ghats connecting Karwar to Dandeli which has a lot of twists and turns and the XM2s performed impeccably over the corners.

There was no touching of wheel arches on hairpin curves (when the car rolls a bit under load) and neither did it scrape on those innumerable undulations before Tumkur on NH4.

For those who had apprehensions on how a 205 fits on stock Alloys (5.5J), here is a pic to help you:

Note that the minimal size for Rim recommended for 205 is 5.5J but to effectively utilize the full width from this tire one needs 6.5J at least. However, I will stick to OE Alloys for now as I fear that the positive offset and 6.5J size from the aftermarket alloys will result in scraping under full load.

20,000 KMS Service will happen over this weekend which will undergo typical fluid replacements and the necessary health check. Will update this thread after the service once again.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

The 20,000 Kms Update:

The Ertiga hit the 20k figure on the Odo yesterday night. Its about 8 months since we bought it and guess the running is neither too much nor too less.

Congratulations for reaching the 20K mark. Just shy of one '0' to reach near the tall boy's milestone.

The tyres do look bulged types, I hope you get what I mean and if you don't mind can you post a picture from the side with the car fully loaded to see how the rear wheel arch distance from the tyre circumference, thanks.

Anurag.