[amitoj]

Originally Posted by chevelle

Since you seem to like Durango, here are some problems with the car.

- V8 engine so gas guzzler. And since you may drive it daily. It may pinch. $100 for a full gas tank is
- Durango is known to have blower motor switch failure and ball joints failure. Also make sure there is no sludge build up.
- since it will be no longer in production, its part manufacturing will be stopped in 2017. I added this just for fun.

Obviously, if you can get this at $4k-$5k less it would be great deal for sure. You can use all those in gas. Also you do have to make sure it is in good condition. Again do check frame, chassis, suspension, brakes, tires. But as i said, the top 3 of your list should be under consideration.

Have you considered a Acura MDX or Pilot or Lexus RX300 or Highlander? They are utter reliable too and you can get 2001-2005 in that price range.

Its already quoted at 8K man! I dont think they will give it to me at 3-4K!! Or will they??

None of Acura/Pilot/Lexus showed up in my list. Will try other places.

Ugh. My best bet would be to get a good samaritan to co-sign the loan for a new car. Right now there are two problems I am facing in getting a loan:
1. No credit history
2. My L1 expires in 12/2012. They wont give me a loan thats longer in duration than my current last day in US, obviously.

Oh btw, I got my temporary New Hampshire license today. Permanent one will come in mail in 60 days.

[mohit]

Another one to consider- Nissan. Xterra and Pathfinder are formidable machines.

e.g. 2006 Nissan Xterra S, $11,995 - Cars.com

[chevelle]

Originally Posted by amitoj

Its already quoted at 8K man! I dont think they will give it to me at 3-4K!! Or will they??

None of Acura/Pilot/Lexus showed up in my list. Will try other places.

Ugh. My best bet would be to get a good samaritan to co-sign the loan for a new car. Right now there are two problems I am facing in getting a loan:
1. No credit history
2. My L1 expires in 12/2012. They wont give me a loan thats longer in duration than my current last day in US, obviously.

Oh btw, I got my temporary New Hampshire license today. Permanent one will come in mail in 60 days.

I meant the difference of price between forester and durango. The difference will be $4k which you can use for gas and maintenance

Why not buy it from an owner? That way you don't have to worry about loans. Chances are you will get loan at higher APR say around 8-10% or possibly more.

Did you get your SSN?

Here are some options i found.

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2013&zip=03060&listin gType=used&transmissionCode=AUT&maxPrice=12000&sho wcaseListingId=322231623&driveCode=4WD|AWD&sortBy= derivedpriceASC&startYear=1997&showcaseOwnerId=708 60&bodyStyles=SUV%2CTRUCKS%2CWAGON&maxMileage=7500 0&searchRadius=100&minPrice=7000&listingId=3218073 83&Log=0

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2013&zip=03060&listin gType=used&transmissionCode=AUT&maxPrice=12000&sho wcaseListingId=322231623&driveCode=4WD|AWD&sortBy= derivedpriceASC&startYear=1997&showcaseOwnerId=708 60&bodyStyles=SUV%2CTRUCKS%2CWAGON&maxMileage=7500 0&searchRadius=100&minPrice=7000&listingId=3218073 86&Log=0

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2013&zip=03060&listin gType=used&transmissionCode=AUT&maxPrice=12000&sho wcaseListingId=322231623&driveCode=4WD|AWD&sortBy= derivedpriceASC&startYear=1997&showcaseOwnerId=708 60&bodyStyles=SUV%2CTRUCKS%2CWAGON&maxMileage=7500 0&searchRadius=100&minPrice=7000&listingId=3148420 23&Log=0

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2013&zip=03060&listin gType=used&transmissionCode=AUT&maxPrice=12000&sho wcaseListingId=322231623&driveCode=4WD|AWD&sortBy= derivedpriceASC&showcaseOwnerId=70860&startYear=19 97&firstRecord=51&bodyStyles=SUV%2CTRUCKS%2CWAGON& maxMileage=75000&searchRadius=100&minPrice=7000&li stingId=323644915&Log=0

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2013&zip=03060&listin gType=used&transmissionCode=AUT&maxPrice=12000&sho wcaseListingId=322231623&driveCode=4WD|AWD&sortBy= derivedpriceASC&showcaseOwnerId=70860&startYear=19 97&firstRecord=51&bodyStyles=SUV%2CTRUCKS%2CWAGON& maxMileage=75000&searchRadius=100&minPrice=7000&li stingId=323905895&Log=0

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2013&zip=03060&listin gType=used&transmissionCode=AUT&maxPrice=12000&sho wcaseListingId=322231623&driveCode=4WD|AWD&sortBy= derivedpriceASC&showcaseOwnerId=70860&startYear=19 97&firstRecord=51&bodyStyles=SUV%2CTRUCKS%2CWAGON& maxMileage=75000&searchRadius=100&minPrice=7000&li stingId=320580346&Log=0

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2013&zip=03060&listin gType=used&transmissionCode=AUT&maxPrice=12000&sho wcaseListingId=322231623&driveCode=4WD|AWD&sortBy= derivedpriceASC&showcaseOwnerId=70860&startYear=19 97&firstRecord=51&bodyStyles=SUV%2CTRUCKS%2CWAGON& maxMileage=75000&searchRadius=100&minPrice=7000&li stingId=305860059&Log=0

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2013&zip=03060&listin gType=used&transmissionCode=AUT&maxPrice=12000&sho wcaseListingId=322231623&driveCode=4WD|AWD&sortBy= derivedpriceASC&showcaseOwnerId=70860&startYear=19 97&firstRecord=76&bodyStyles=SUV%2CTRUCKS%2CWAGON& maxMileage=75000&searchRadius=100&minPrice=7000&li stingId=323324921&Log=0

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2013&zip=03060&listin gType=used&transmissionCode=AUT&maxPrice=12000&sho wcaseListingId=322231623&driveCode=4WD|AWD&sortBy= derivedpriceASC&showcaseOwnerId=70860&startYear=19 97&firstRecord=76&bodyStyles=SUV%2CTRUCKS%2CWAGON& maxMileage=75000&searchRadius=100&minPrice=7000&li stingId=318914136&Log=0

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2013&zip=03060&listin gType=used&transmissionCode=AUT&maxPrice=12000&sho wcaseListingId=322231623&driveCode=4WD|AWD&sortBy= derivedpriceASC&showcaseOwnerId=70860&startYear=19 97&firstRecord=76&bodyStyles=SUV%2CTRUCKS%2CWAGON& maxMileage=75000&searchRadius=100&minPrice=7000&li stingId=320869259&Log=0

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2013&zip=03060&listin gType=used&transmissionCode=AUT&maxPrice=12000&sho wcaseListingId=322231623&driveCode=4WD|AWD&sortBy= derivedpriceASC&showcaseOwnerId=70860&startYear=19 97&firstRecord=101&bodyStyles=SUV%2CTRUCKS%2CWAGON &maxMileage=75000&searchRadius=100&minPrice=7000&l istingId=320815392&Log=0

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2013&zip=03060&listin gType=used&transmissionCode=AUT&maxPrice=12000&sho wcaseListingId=322231623&driveCode=4WD|AWD&sortBy= derivedpriceASC&showcaseOwnerId=70860&startYear=19 97&firstRecord=101&bodyStyles=SUV%2CTRUCKS%2CWAGON &maxMileage=75000&searchRadius=100&minPrice=7000&l istingId=319003999&Log=0

10k miles here and there won't matter if you get a newer model. Less headache of maintaining it. Plus as newer models came, FE increased too and power increased too.

[vineethvazhayil]

Originally Posted by amitoj

1. No credit history
2. My L1 expires in 12/2012. They wont give me a loan thats longer in duration than my current last day in US, obviously.

Are you being explicitly asked for the end date of your visa? Have you tried visiting a credit union? They should be able to give you a line of credit for x amount of $ based on your salary and credit (or the lack of it). With that you can either buy cars from a dealer or even a private buyer. The credit union should be able to give you a cheque to pay any buyer. And, normally, you get a lower interest rate than the mainstream banks.

[kraft.wagen]

Originally Posted by vineethvazhayil

Are you being explicitly asked for the end date of your visa? Have you tried visiting a credit union? They should be able to give you a line of credit for x amount of $ based on your salary and credit (or the lack of it). With that you can either buy cars from a dealer or even a private buyer. The credit union should be able to give you a cheque to pay any buyer. And, normally, you get a lower interest rate than the mainstream banks.

Yes you should be able to get a loan from the Credit Union, who will give you loans easily and comparatively lower APR.

[chevelle]

I would say for amount <=10k, he should seek a private party deal. It will benefit both a lot. As they say 'Cash is King'. He can easily get a more newer, lesser mile car for a great price. Dealership which i call as Stealership are always there to steal a lot than asking price. With a price of $9k from dealer he has to add approx $1k-$1.5k more for the tax and dealer fees which will push it above $10k for a car which is not worth more than $6k in market. Also the loan will be around 5%-10% from any bank be it CU or Private because of lack of USA driving experience, lack of credit history.

[amitoj]

Originally Posted by chevelle

I meant the difference of price between forester and durango. The difference will be $4k which you can use for gas and maintenance

Why not buy it from an owner? That way you don't have to worry about loans. Chances are you will get loan at higher APR say around 8-10% or possibly more.

Did you get your SSN?

Here are some options i found.

10k miles here and there won't matter if you get a newer model. Less headache of maintaining it. Plus as newer models came, FE increased too and power increased too.

Ah ok @Durango difference. Yes I got my SSN last week. Took exactly one week!!
Umm, none of the links are working. They all say car is no longer listed for sale.

Originally Posted by vineethvazhayil

Are you being explicitly asked for the end date of your visa? Have you tried visiting a credit union? They should be able to give you a line of credit for x amount of $ based on your salary and credit (or the lack of it). With that you can either buy cars from a dealer or even a private buyer. The credit union should be able to give you a cheque to pay any buyer. And, normally, you get a lower interest rate than the mainstream banks.

I did not know about the check facility! That seems super cool.

Originally Posted by kraft.wagen

Yes you should be able to get a loan from the Credit Union, who will give you loans easily and comparatively lower APR.

I have contacted DCU here. Will probably walk into their office tomorrow. Its on my way to work.

Originally Posted by chevelle

I would say for amount <=10k, he should seek a private party deal. It will benefit both a lot. .

They are talking about buying new car from a dealer.

[chevelle]

Originally Posted by amitoj

Umm, none of the links are working. They all say car is no longer listed for sale.

Well in that case just search in your zipcode. You will find plenty of such specimen. Some options i included in that were Santa Fe 4WD, CRV AWD, Rav4 AWD, Kia Sportage, Nissan Pathfinder, Nissan Xterra, Subaru Outback, Subaru Legacy and many models of the Big 3. Most these have 60k-70k miles on odo. These are all reliable and will easily see 150k miles with regular maintenance.

[VLOCT]

Amitoj,

If your L1 expires on 12/2012, why spend $10K on a car now? Just wondering whether your stay beyond that is a given. Cars are simply black holes and very good at vacuuming your hard earned money. Don't you think it's wiser to buy a cheap commuter till at least your long term stay is confirmed and then add the money you saved and buy a good car. Just wondering, that's all.

By the way, maintenance of Japanese and European cars are lot more expensive than most American cars. And contrary to general belief, they're not maintenance free. Probably less frequent (I personally don't buy it), but definitely not maintenance free. I'm of course, talking second hand cars beyond their warranty period.

[amitoj]

Originally Posted by VLOCT

Amitoj,

If your L1 expires on 12/2012, why spend $10K on a car now? Just wondering whether your stay beyond that is a given.

Well, there are a few things here. The company is starting the process for my permanent residency. They have put in a request to the Legal folks for applying for an extension of L1. And they have also initiated gathering documents for filing for my H1B, in case permanent residency process goes beyonf the extended stay on L1. If none of these happen, then I have the last option with me of using the Canadian immigrant visa and moving to Canada.

So, its not going to be easy to kick me off this continent for now

And yes, you are right. Japanese cars are cheaper to maintain is a myth has been stated by quite a few folks here on this thread itself!

[chevelle]

Originally Posted by VLOCT

Amitoj,

By the way, maintenance of Japanese and European cars are lot more expensive than most American cars. And contrary to general belief, they're not maintenance free. Probably less frequent (I personally don't buy it), but definitely not maintenance free. I'm of course, talking second hand cars beyond their warranty period.

I would agree on European cars. But i won't agree on Japanese car. Especially the older ones. I have a 99 and 05 cars which are quite reliable. Touchwood

For 35k miles(22k & 13K resp.) both cars have done in 1 year 1 month I have <$950 ($250 brakes + $400 for timing belt + $300 for valve replacement on 99 camry) of maintenance on both the cars. I haven't included the regular oil change which i religiously do every 3k miles on both but those cost $30 per change with tire rotation. One has done 150k and another is 105k miles on odo. Similarly my friend has a 200k mile done camry and it has been utter reliable too for how old it is. He also had fair amount of maintenance but nothing major and it can still do 50k more.

I don't think my friend who has a 04 malibu will agree with you. He had it for 2 and half and had loads of problem even though he bought it with <60k miles on odo from an elderly couple. His car has almost 75% of maintenance done for what he bought it for. There are many more examples but this one is the closest as he is my colleague at work.

I would say if you find a good mechanic, overall cost for Japanese and American cars will be a lot lesser than European. But still Japanese>American>European in terms of less maintenance. And finally it depends on how the previous owners have maintained it and how we maintain it. I have seen many cars running on road with timing belt squeaking and what not protruding. Also there is no such thing as maintenance free. But at 100k, if you compare condition of a Japanese car to an American car, you will know which one will do many more miles. Many of my colleague who are locals admit that American cars are good for 75k miles. After that its best to get rid of it and most of them have done that. Just my 2 cents. YMMV

[shatananda.k]

Originally Posted by chevelle

I would say if you find a good mechanic, overall cost for Japanese and American cars will be a lot lesser than European. But still Japanese>American>European in terms of less maintenance....

I agree with you Chevelle. Japanese cars are the most reliable of the lot.
The common search criteria would be in the following order: Honda>Toyota>Nissan.
I have seen that most of the vehicles would only need oil change at regular intervals. And you are good to go.
However, once you reach the 100K mark, the timing belt would need to be replaced.

[infotech58]

Originally Posted by amitoj

Ugh. My best bet would be to get a good samaritan to co-sign the loan for a new car. Right now there are two problems I am facing in getting a loan:
1. No credit history
2. My L1 expires in 12/2012. They wont give me a loan thats longer in duration than my current last day in US, obviously.

Oh btw, I got my temporary New Hampshire license today. Permanent one will come in mail in 60 days.

1. Only a relative of yours can become a co-signer.

2. if your L1 expires on 12/2012, your driving license would also expire on the same date. and even if you get extension, you'd get a temp. license (45-60 days) unless your VISA is stamped.

Originally Posted by mohit

Another one to consider- Nissan. Xterra and Pathfinder are formidable machines.

e.g. 2006 Nissan Xterra S, $11,995 - Cars.com

I agree to it. Owned an Xterra for over three years and it is extremely reliable and can handle a lot of abuse.

[amitoj]

Originally Posted by infotech58

1. Only a relative of yours can become a co-signer.

That's not true. Banks dont care whether the co-signer is a relative or not. They just want someone they can go after if the borrower defaults.

[NinadJoshi]

All this is intriguing and informative to me, as I see things have changed a bit since my days as a new immigrant.

@Amitoj, if your tentative shelf life in the US is only until 12-2012, then I think it you should maintain the same tentative (and practical) flavor in your automotive urges too. It'd make sense to buy a well driven 'commuter' for as cheap as you can get, suck it for all it's worth in the coming few months and then go for your vehicle of choice once your future stay becomes a bit assured. (If I remember correctly, weren't you infatuated with a $40K Toyota Tundra a few months ago ?)

Without doubt a sub-10K vehicle will come with its share of potential repair expenses no matter what breed it is (American, Japanese, European), but that's part of the game.