[Gandhi]

Check this out guys. This is some pretty amazing stuff.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AyXNeRbpRk

[infotech58]

Requirement for an Oil change at 3k or at 3 months, whichever occurs earlier, isn't true anymore (for newer cars); however most of the mechanics/garages still recommend that you do so, just because it gets them business.

Find an independent shop (unless your car is in warranty) who would let you bring oil and oil filter and do an oil change for your. For many years, I bought engine oil (mostly royal purple) by myself and got the mechanic to do oil change for me, and followed an interval of 6-7k for oil change.

Originally Posted by ToroRosso

EDIT: I showed them this post, so the reasoning is the oil quality start deteroriating post 3K miiles and a lot of mechanics recommend the 3K miles plus the Quality of oils used at some of the dealers are suspect.

[chevelle]

Originally Posted by ToroRosso

Thanks Chev, I agree.
Most of them have > 3 cars and all of them have alteast one late 80s or Early 90s F150. So the mindset could be because of that.

The last 3 changes i have carried out at 3k, i will switch to Syntehtic and do the change now at every 7.5k miles.

Since its nearing 40k, i was planning to do a preventive tranny flush as well.

EDIT: I showed them this post, so the reasoning is the oil quality start deteroriating post 3K miiles and a lot of mechanics recommend the 3K miles plus the Quality of oils used at some of the dealers are suspect.

When switching to synthetic, i would advise you to do 2-3 oil changes earlier in order to have the synthetic oil in the whole system asap. So may be first 2-3 oil change you can do at 5000 miles. That way, engine will get use to the synthetic oil change. Then you can go back to 7500-8000 miles or a little bit more. Also, check dipstick with oil level and how black it is when you approach 7500 miles. If its in good condition, go even more and keep checking.

I have heard the deteriorating argument for long time and it shows how weird these old thinking is. It is true for older cars because as i mentioned the oil quality at that time was not as good as these days and so it would deteriorate earlier. I also have come across many mechanics who think its good to do at 3000 miles but they are old school as they work on plenty of old vehicles one of which was mine - a 98 camry amongst many older models at the shop. Also, its one way of making money for them since you will visit them frequently, they expect that you possibly will go for other services too like the tranny flush even when you don't need it.

Another thing to do is, take the oil sample and send it to blackstone for analysis of the oil. It will show you bad/good quality is after say 5000 miles or 7500 miles. Once you have it, you will know the right time to change it and how the oil is at that time.

When changing at dealer's, you can always ask them what brand and quality of oil they use. Usually, its the same grade, just different brand. How did they arrive to the conclusion that dealer's oil is a suspect? Mostly hearsay otherwise the dealer will have 1000s of engine repair claims WRT oil change. This is where blackstone comes in picture. Send them the one that you use all the time and it will show you the true results. Once you are comfortable with one, take it to dealer or other shop and give them the oil that you prefer.

Lastly, don't do a tranny flush. Just do a drain and fill of tranny fluid. No point paying for a flush when its just 40k. Obviously, if you want, you can do it at 50k which is usually the time to do a drain and fill on most newer cars. Also, that will mean you will have to postpone at least 6-8 months depending on what you drive. A great way to save money. I have seen many cars that don't do tranny flush/drain and fill till they get to 100k miles and it runs just fine.

Sorry for long post. My 2 cents if they are any worth.

Edit: Infotech just replied the same what i said and i agree with him.

[ToroRosso]

I hve one more question, this will be the last. When i had bought my car I didnt do a coolant flush and neither did I check the coolant level.

I was checking my oil level now and noticed that the coolant is at the Low level.

So now do I do a coolant flush and full top up or just buy FL22 from Autozone and do a top up.

Trolling Mazda 6 forums really didnt help.

EDIT:Thanks Chev and InfoTech.

[VLOCT]

The color of the oil is not a reliable indicator of an oils lubricational property since, they tend to absorb impurities without affecting their properties.

I recommend flushing your engine coolant every 2 to 3 years and replacing your brake fluid every four years. Brake fluid tends to absorb moisture. Replacing your Power Steering fluid every 3 or 4 years is an excellent idea as well.

When you do a tranny flush should also depend on how old the car is. If your car has low miles but is 5 years or older, go ahead and do it.

It always amuses me to see such detailed discussions on changing car fluids. These are cheap insurances that you do once or twice when you own the car except, for the routine oil changes, coolant flushes etc.

Originally Posted by ToroRosso

I hve one more question, this will be the last. When i had bought my car I didnt do a coolant flush and neither did I check the coolant level.

I was checking my oil level now and noticed that the coolant is at the Low level.

So now do I do a coolant flush and full top up or just buy FL22 from Autozone and do a top up.

Trolling Mazda 6 forums really didnt help.

EDIT:Thanks Chev and InfoTech.

Unless you're buying pre-mixed coolant, you need to do a 50/50 coolant_water mix. Also, ensure that you're buying the same type - Green/Red etc.

[Jomz]

Originally Posted by ToroRosso

I hve one more question, this will be the last. When i had bought my car I didnt do a coolant flush and neither did I check the coolant level.

I was checking my oil level now and noticed that the coolant is at the Low level.

So now do I do a coolant flush and full top up or just buy FL22 from Autozone and do a top up.

Trolling Mazda 6 forums really didnt help.

EDIT:Thanks Chev and InfoTech.

I think Coolant flushes are only recommended after 10 years or so??

That is how it is in Hondas.

I assume you will have the factory coolant in your Mazda. It is not a good idea to mix coolants. Buy OEM Mazda fluid and a top off would be fine.

Do you notice excessive white vapor from the exhaust and a corresponding drop in coolant level?? A head gasket might be going off.

[ToroRosso]

Originally Posted by Jomz

Do you notice excessive white vapor from the exhaust and a corresponding drop in coolant level?? A head gasket might be going off.

No No Excessive white vapors.. The coolant level seems to be just a tad above the FL mark.

I will probably get the coolant from the Mazda Dealer

[NinadJoshi]

Has anyone sea foamed their engine here?

I keep hearing about it and wonder if I should try it.

[vineethvazhayil]

Originally Posted by kraft.wagen

Yep, but unless I cant take it to canyons unless I buy one
Do rental companies have it? I haven't seen one though.


Yea I was talking bout the ones we get in rental. Its mostly the 2.4L 160 odd horses Auto

Just saw a comparison test between the MS3 and the Ford Focus ST

Motortrend Comparison - Ford Focus ST vs Mazdaspeed 3

The newer car (FORD) is more refined and enjoyable overall and drives unlike any other FWD car out there.
I have my fears on the MS3, will Mazda continue to produce a lot of fun oriented models or will the economic realities force them to make more SUVs and family sedans? Perhaps if they had to produce just one sporty vehicle, they will only make the Miata (which itself is now being developed in partnership with Alfa Romeo?).. The MS3 was the first ever vehicle I test drove in the USA. If they stop making it (which seems highly likely), it would be missed!

[aah78]

Originally Posted by NinadJoshi

Has anyone sea foamed their engine here?

I keep hearing about it and wonder if I should try it.

I've heard about it but haven't used it. From what I've read it works as well as snake-oil or gold heat shielding depending on who you ask.

Any specific reason you're looking into it? For me, a bottle of Techron usually solves rough idling issues & I don't have any worrying sludge buildup yet.

[NinadJoshi]

No technical reason for it. More of a curiosity than anything else. I have a couple of high mileage engines on me that I could try this on. I'll probably seafoam one in the coming summer. If it works, wonderful, else, at least I'll know it doesn't

[ToroRosso]

Originally Posted by VLOCT

.

VLOCT, vivekiny2k

Need your advice again . I just got my motorcycle license and the timing is bang on, one of my colleagues is selling is CBR600RR, Year 2009 and done 7k miles and asking price is $5.5k. Bike has Yoshimura slipons. I have ridden her around and felt quite comfortable.

Does it make sense for me to buy the bike now or ride around for another 6 months or so to get some riding experience so that the insurance would be lower?

Currently the insurance quotes that i got are all ranging from $200-350.

And, if I were to buy this bike - what are primary things that I should be on the look out for.


Note : I have never ridden an SBK before and the bikes that i currently have in India are
P180 - 2006,
P220 - 2008
Thunderbird 350- 2010

Mods(aah78,Technocrat) - sincere apologies for posting in this thread but the target audience are here.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by NinadJoshi

Has anyone sea foamed their engine here?

I keep hearing about it and wonder if I should try it.

Like aah78; really depends on who you ask.

When we lived in the USA we owned a 1998 Jeep Cherokee. All the guys of the Cherokee forums were enthusiastic about it. Some did it routinely every year or so many miles.

As long as your engine runs fine, don't do it would be my advise. Even if you start having some engine problems, foaming never solves the problem. It might, at best, elevate some of the symptoms.

Jeroen

[Technocrat]

Originally Posted by ToroRosso

Note : I have never ridden an SBK before and the bikes that i currently have in India are
P180 - 2006,
P220 - 2008
Thunderbird 350- 2010

Mods(aah78,Technocrat) - sincere apologies for posting in this thread but the target audience are here.

No nee to be sorry, this is fine.

Wile i would let others respond to the Insurance & deal value part, I will reply to the other question.

You should be fine switching directly to a 600RR(Definetly not a 1000RR or similar) but just a few questions to ask

- What is the exact requirement? a fast bike or a Sports Bike?
- do you intend to do track days or ride in Biking groups which go on rides on such bikes
- If the answer to above is No then would you be comfortable riding a bike with aggressive riding stance on a day to day basis?

There are other bikes out there which are powerful but do not have similar handling capabilities as the RR but are more practical for a everyday use.

[VLOCT]

@TorroRosso,

600RR should be fine, if you're looking for a sportbike. As usual, check records to see if it's been in an accident, condition of tires etc. These bikes shouldn't have too many things going wrong. If you're looking for a lot of highway or city street riding however, sport bikes are a waste of money. If you want to ride the twisties, I suggest riding alone or with mature riders only.

I don't know your skill level however, if you haven't taken a BRIC class, I would recommend joining one to get the basics down pat. I can't reiterate enough, that riding experience in India has limited bearing on the riding skill required on handling such bikes around the twisties here. Your head positioning, body positioning, lateral weight transfer skills are all paramount for sport riding. There are no short cuts, a careful throttle and brake (front and rear) control, and a lot of seat time is the only way you will get these skills.

A complete quality riding gear of helmet, suits, gloves and boots are a must. Don't skimp on these. It's gonna cost you. Avoid Johnny Rocket crap. Like they say, 'It's better to sweat than bleed".