[panamera13]

Originally Posted by Dhruv29

Mercedes-Benz uses AGM type batteries instead of flooded lead acid battery.
AGM is maintenance free, provides good electrical reliability and is lighter than the flooded lead-acid type. It charges quicker than lead acid battery type and offers more life. The battery for my E-class is too up for replacement, it's been more than 4 years. I just keep an jumper cable in the boot just in case.
However, there have been cases where traditional batteries are installed instead of AGM batteries, most of them work out fine but there are instances where electronics starts to misbehave.
I'll suggest you to go ahead with OEM replacement from Mercedes.

Battery (irrespective of Lead Acid or AGM) is pretty easy to change. I have an X5 in Houston and change the battery myself. The battery was 200 USD (so not 40K INR, which seems way too expensive) and I connected the charging terminals with a battery tender (so no memory is lost) and then replaced the battery.

If you do a DIY; make sure of these points:

1.) The battery at the dealer has been probably lying around for months; whether they do it OR it's a DIY, fully charge the battery first. I use a trickle battery charger (it takes 1 day/overnight) but that's the best route.

2.) While changing battery, check to see if you need to keep current running so you don't run into memory loss/resets.

Don't go for a regular Lead Acid battery to save money; AGM is better at performance and these german cars definitely need that. I'm pertty sure there should be youtube DIY videos on this. There was one for X5 and that's how I did mine.

[bharatbits]

Seeing the exorbitant costs of getting your car regular serviced i feel i better stay away from MB more so if owners are able to procure spares at 1/4 th the ASS price. Sourcing spares cheaper is fine but getting them fixed by a unreliable mechanic by hit and trial with the assurance that if you face a problem you can come to me anytime is a no no for me.

[earthian]

My GLE 250d is about two and a half years old. When i was going to Uttarakhand from A'Bad recently, i found that the steering tended to vibrate when brakes are gently applied at speeds ~120 kmph. And it was not the ABS kicking in.

Had taken it to the service station upon my return. At first, they said that the front discs needed to be replaced and if it was not a big issue, then it would be wise to leave it be. I asked them to check with MB and after 2 days, they replaced the discs, brake pad and sent the car back. The problem is resolved now.

No payment, and the invoice showed a value of about 56,000/-, but no payment required. Must thank T-BHP for advising me to take the extended warranty, though no mention of warranty was made, either by me or the service station.

[shravan2k2]

So my pre-owned 2014 c220d avantgarde out of the blue started changing gears post 2500 rpm and sounded harsh in lower gears.
I stopped and restarted and the check engine light came on. On getting it diagnosed at the MB TandT workshop here in Gurgaon, got to know the air mass sensor has gone bad.

Part cost - 57,000
Labour for fitting this 10 minute job - 18,000

Absurd labour cost for such a 10 minute job. They also said that the part needs to be programmed for it to work. Does anyone know what programming is this and how it is done?

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by shravan2k2

.
I stopped and restarted and the check engine light came on. On getting it diagnosed at the MB TandT workshop here in Gurgaon, got to know the air mass sensor has gone bad.
?

Air mass sensors do go bad from time to time. But it is not always necessary to replace them! One of the most common failures is due to dirt and grime accumulating on the sensor. This can be cleaned, but you need a special kind of cleaner/solvent for it. The second most common failure is the connector and or wiring. Check that the connector is properly in place and locked. Overtime all these plastic connectors become brittle, bits might break off, causing it not to fit properly. An easy trick is to pull it off, clean the contacts with contact cleaner. Gently tug at all the wires to see if they are properly attached, inspect visually the plug and connector closely. Check for broken, bend pins etc.

Push the connector back on, clear the code and see if it stays away.

All of the above tends to give the same error code as if the air mass meter has gone wonky. A good, reliable mechanic will have checked this of course. But it doesn't hurt to ask if they did.
Good luck
Jeroen

[shravan2k2]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Air mass sensors do go bad from time to time. But it is not always necessary to replace them! One of the most common failures is due to dirt and grime accumulating on the sensor. This can be cleaned, but you need a special kind of cleaner/solvent for it. The second most common failure is the connector and or wiring. Check that the connector is properly in place and locked. Overtime all these plastic connectors become brittle, bits might break off, causing it not to fit properly. An easy trick is to pull it off, clean the contacts with contact cleaner. Gently tug at all the wires to see if they are properly attached, inspect visually the plug and connector closely. Check for broken, bend pins etc.

Push the connector back on, clear the code and see if it stays away.

All of the above tends to give the same error code as if the air mass meter has gone wonky. A good, reliable mechanic will have checked this of course. But it doesn't hurt to ask if they did.
Good luck
Jeroen

Thanks. TandT guys did clean and check. It didn't work.

I replaced the part myself and cleared the code. But, the car was as it was before replacement and then gave the car to TandT guys to program the sensor. I can't understand what programming is needed for the sensor to work.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by shravan2k2

I can't understand what programming is needed for the sensor to work.

No idea. I have replaced and worked on a fair number of air mass meters on various cars over the years. Never had to reprogram anything, only to reset the ECU / Check Engine Light.

I did a bit of googling on your Mercedes. endless amount of video’s on how to replace the air mass meter. Nobody does any programming. Better check and ask specifically what it is they are going to do, since nobody out here on the net seems to be aware!

Good luck

Jeroen

[shravan2k2]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

No idea. I have replaced and worked on a fair number of air mass meters on various cars over the years. Never had to reprogram anything, only to reset the ECU / Check Engine Light.

I did a bit of googling on your Mercedes. endless amount of video’s on how to replace the air mass meter. Nobody does any programming. Better check and ask specifically what it is they are going to do, since nobody out here on the net seems to be aware!

Good luck

Jeroen

Even I tried to find out. But in vain. Did ask them what was done, they just say the sensor needs to be reprogrammed internally with MB server. I doubt any such thing is done or did they just reset ECU. I did clear the code via the OBD but my car was still in the same condition and the check engine light also came back after some time.

[condor]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

This can be cleaned, but you need a special kind of cleaner/solvent for it.

Jeroen, can you shed more light on this ? And is specific for Merc's & the like ?

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by condor

Jeroen, can you shed more light on this ? And is specific for Merc's & the like ?

As far as MAF sensors go, either use a specific cleaning agent like the one from CRC or 100% IPA available at the chemists.

We have various threads on MAF sensor cleaning including those part of ownership reviews too, or are you referring to something else?

[condor]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

We have various threads on MAF sensor cleaning including those part of ownership reviews too, or are you referring to something else?

Thank you. Meant to ask if the guideline to use MAF specific cleaners is applicable to all makes or cars or if specific to these luxury brands. I had tried WD40 on my Tata. While the difference was there, your post created a question if a general purpose spray can damage the sensor.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by condor

Jeroen, can you shed more light on this ? And is specific for Merc's & the like ?

Originally Posted by paragsachania

As far as MAF sensors go, either use a specific cleaning agent like the one from CRC or 100% IPA available at the chemists.

We have various threads on MAF sensor cleaning including those part of ownership reviews too, or are you referring to something else?

As mentioned by paragsachania.

The suitable cleaning agents are not specific for Mercedes, if anything they are specific to the type of air mass sensor. Most common on most cars/engines are so called hot- or cold- wire air mass sensors.

Karman-Vortex style air flow sensors such as found on some Lexus, Toyota;s, Mitsibishu require different ways of cleaning.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor

Jeroen

[Turbanator]

Need inputs from MB owners, a known is picking E-class. His annual running won't be more than 3000-4000 km.

MB has below plans and dealership has suggested going for the basic plan. What are the normal service costs, say for 1st,2nd &3rd service?

[aman-bh]

Originally Posted by Turbanator

Need inputs from MB owners, a known is picking E-class. His annual running won't be more than 3000-4000 km.



MB has below plans and dealership has suggested going for the basic plan. What are the normal service costs, say for 1st,2nd &3rd service?

A friend who has a E220d BSIV paid:
50k for first service
70k for second service
And I'm assuming it will only get more expensive.

[v1p3r]

Originally Posted by Turbanator

Need inputs from MB owners, a known is picking E-class. His annual running won't be more than 3000-4000 km.

MB has below plans and dealership has suggested going for the basic plan. What are the normal service costs, say for 1st,2nd &3rd service?

Wondering this myself. Noticed the E350d has the bigger brakes in front, look like those from the S. At 10k kms per year, does it make sense to go for the 4 year pack or just pay per service? Won't keep the car more than 4 years.